Impact of color on Lg. cents? * thanks for input!

mact

How does the color of old coppers affect value? I guess there is a kind-of-regular-brown color and a washed-out color from cleaning. What about dark or chocolate brown?

thanks,
matt

Rittenhouse

Color on early copper is critical. Retoned can knock the price 20 - 50% or more depending upon how badly done. Even unattractive natural color can drop the price 20%. Experienced collectors generally like evenly toned pieces. Dark choc ("Hershey's Special") can bring a premium as will nice tans and mahogany.

mact

is there a website with information on this stuff, I want to get into old coppers but don't want to get ripped.

thanks,
matt

originalisbest

There are probably a few early copper specialists on this board who could direct you; as well, you might consider joining the EAC (Early American Coppers) club. Seems like a logical way to start.

dorkkarl

color is absolutely critical, at least to eac members.

for me, light brown w/ darker edges is perfect

K S

Elcontador

RD copper commands a substantial premium (often 2x or 3x) over RB copper in the same grade. RB copper, depending on the series, may command either 50% premium or a minimal premium over BN copper.

Grading standards have changed re color. It used to be that 5% plus original RD would get the coin holdered as RB. Not now; you need around 20-25% original RD for the RB designation. Beware of older holdered RB copper which if slabbed today would be BN. Only a boludo would pay RB $ for these coins. I've also noticed a number of coins slabbed as RD with only 85% RD. You don't want to pay RD $ for these coins.

In general, I find attractive RB Unc. copper to be the most difficult of the color designations to find.

It depends on the series re what to look for. Re Braided Hair material, some years are poorly struck, like the 1855 Large & Half Cents typically have strong centers and weak stars & dentils. OTOH, the 1853 Half Cent usually has a much better strike.

You want to look for even color. A RB Large Cent with consistent color is more attractive to me than one which is 80% RD on the obverse and completely BN on the reverse.

You want to avoid planchet problems on pre Coronet Head vintage copper. Be wary of excess spotting on all old copper. Some Unc. slabbed copper has verdigris or PVC; if you see green stuff, avoid the coin.

Some dealers who know their old copper, in no particular order, IMO are Tom Reynolds, Jim McGuigan, Doug Bird, Chris MacCawley / Bob Grellman, Pinnacle Rarities, and Ira Stein. For some reason, many of the majors do not carry much in the way of Large and Half Cents.

jadecoin

Howdy! Here's an extremely original 1853 large-cent with sumptious tan color. It's an example of how bright a "brown" coin can appear, yet this coin would be considered only "BN". Has a couple of carbon spots, but all in all, a beauty. Incredible cartwheel luster in-hand, too. Great thread!!

- jadecoin

Conder101

Rittenhouse nailed it for large cents, although I would say that the tan and mahogany will do better a little better than the dark chocolate especially on the early dates which usually tend to come dark. I do really like a hard glossy black myself but they are hard to find. Black is easy, but they rarely have nice surfaces.

Coin Finder

I think Large Cent color is very important. It is what others might refer to as "eye Appeal" For the early dates (1793-1814) you will not find a lot of RB and almost no RD. I sometimes like the two toned brown on well circulated coins. Lighter devices and darker fields, but not drastic differences. I have a 1794 head of 93 that is just the opposite, lighter fields and darker date and lettering which I think is very nice!

Tbig

Rittenhouse

Agree w/ conder --- if you can find a tan or mahogany early date, buy it. I own a tan S188, tough date by itself & very tough to find nice smooth tan. Most 99s are dark & porous.

Be careful of retoned. And, slab is no guarantee that the coin is not recolored. Learn what "real" color is before buying. Also, DO NOT buy coins with spotting, esp. "carbon" spots. Kills the value for experienced collectors.

mact

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