Dealers- Is the coin for sale?
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I just returned from a small show, actually a flea market with a few coin dealers. I was looking thru one of the dealers boxes and came across a nice coin I was interested in. I pulled the coin out and continued to look. After about 20 minutes I had seen most of his inventory and was ready to pay. I had 3 coins to price. The first coin we agreed upon the price , the second coin he was too high and I passed. Now is where I had a problem with this guy. He's got $40 marked on the flip for this coin. He asks me "what do you want to pay" for this coin. I checked my price sheet and said I'd pay $40 for it (it was a nice variety he missed). Now he tells me that he need to have the coin looked at by a grading service before he was going to sell it. My question to the dealers here- If you have a coin out for sale and it's priced and a buyer comes up and wants to buy it for the marked price is it proper to not sell the coin? I was a little bit upset with this guy.
Bruggs
Bruggs
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Brian.
Coinlearner, Ahrensdad, Nolawyer, RG, coinlieutenant, Yorkshireman, lordmarcovan, Soldi, masscrew, JimTyler, Relaxn, jclovescoins
Now listen boy, I'm tryin' to teach you sumthin' . . . . that ain't no optical illusion, it only looks like an optical illusion.
My mind reader refuses to charge me....
However, his protocol and behaviour are erratic and foolish. He asks your best price, but doesn't counter with his own, then denies you an option to buy the coin altogether.
Not everybody is dealing with a full deck. That is why he sells coins at a flea market probably.
Tyler
However, the idea is to get the dealer to say the price first. I live by the rule that he who speaks first looses. If his quoted price is too low take it and win. If it is too high either pass, or negotiate. However, if you speak first, and your offer is too high, you lose. If too low, he can pass. The convention is that the seller has to speak first. If you let him flip you, you lose.
A had a good example last week. A local dealer had a coin I wanted and was willing to pay $500 for. It was an old holder and was marked at $395. After examining the coin, I asked if the price was $395, or if he could work a little. Posing the question that way makes it emotionally difficult for him to quote a higher than $395 price. He quoted $375, and I took it without talking anymore.
Greg
The best strategy is to play dumb and get the money down on the coins as fast as you can. Flea markets are whole different ballgame from coin shows. You will run into some good guys now and then, but often times you are best advised to use your survival skills to the fullest.
One thing I will say. If you find a coin at a flea market that is a drop-dread bargain at the price marked, just buy it. Nickel and dimeing somebody when you are set to make a killing is dumb IMO.
If the coin wasn't for sale, the dealer shouldn't have had it in his for sale box. Perhaps it was an oversight and he had meant to keep it set aside for grading submission. If that were the case, however, he shouldn't have asked what you wanted to pay for it and set you up to be disappointed. Shame on him!
I've seen many dealers with the cost on the holder and they ask for a fair profit over.
I do not think it unethical for the dealer to withdraw the coin from sale any more than I think it unethical for a buyer to come back ten minutes later and return a coin he just bought because he saw an nicer one/or cheaper one two showcases down at another table.
He may not get your business again, but he should explain his position and apologize for the mistunderstanding which is what it sounded like to me.
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<< <i>apologize for the mistunderstanding which is what it sounded like to me. >>
This was no misunderstanding. Bruggs tipped his hand by agreeing to the listed price too quickly, and this dealer smelled an opportunity to try and jack him.
Russ, NCNE
Another good technique with that type of sale situation is to find one or two inexpensive pieces that you can hand the dealer in a group with the real find and an offer of a discounted amount "for the bunch".
I found an early Meiji Japanese copper 1/2 sen in AU Red marked at the Krause VF value in a world coin box at Long Beach with only three other Japanese coins, all marked at less than $5, so I just gave the dealer all four with $10 less than the marked price on the 1/2 sen, and then gave him the additional 5 bucks he asked for.
Since you proved you weren't dumber than him on the 2nd, he is now worried that he may be dumber than you. So now he is scared and decided the smart thing to do was ask somebody else which one was dumber of the two.
If you sent somebody else back who just picked up the coin with the $40 tag on it without spending 20 minutes and using reference material he would have the confidence that the buyer was in fact dumber than him and would probably gladly sell it to them for $40.
So the moral of the story is use a a shill to be the dumb guy, and you'll probably get it.
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