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Net grading - how to determine?

nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
When you have a coin that has been whizzed or badly dipped, whatever, and need to net grade it, what are the rules? I've seen things like AU DETAILS NET VF for example. How do you determine the net grade?

Comments

  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,964 ✭✭✭✭✭
    This one is really hard to answer because for me it's more of a "gut feel" than a set of objective rules. Generally the rule is that moderate defects lower the grade by one grade. For example a moderately badly cleaned AU becomes an EF-40. If the damage is worse it could go down two grades. Beyond that I think a coin that is really messed up may not be collectable. For example an AU with a massive scratch or a thick “X” carved in to it many be no more than a “filler.”
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    "net grade" is actually 1 of the easiest aspects of coin grading, much less difficult then advertised. simply decide how much $ the coin in question is worth TO YOU. then, go to the price guide, and look up the grade that corresponds to YOUR $. THAT is the net-grade. note that this allows for your opinion to matter because others may value the coin differently.

    the most common mistake is to think you have to figure out the net-grade first, then the value in $. that is the opposite of the correct procedure!!!

    this is a subtle & very underrated issue, but an extremely important 1. i seriously hope this helps, will be glad to offer more if you have any other questions.

    terrific question, the thread will probably be under-appreciated.

    K S
  • nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
    So this is a natural condition of market grading? For example, in a bunch of raw mercs I have there is a really whizzed up one. It has most of the vertical bars on the rev mace. The rims are separated from the legend. Basically your typical VG/F one.

    So what I do is say I wouldn't pay more than AG/G money for it so that is its net grade, right?
  • UncleJoeUncleJoe Posts: 2,536 ✭✭✭
    nwcs, that would be the net grade for you.

    dorkkarl makes a very good point, you have to decide what you are willing to pay for the coin. The reason why the coin is net graded may or may not bother you.
    ie. cleaning may require a larger discount for some collectors over others to purchase the same coin. It becomes a matter of taste. Cleaning has never bothered me as long as the coin doesn't look like it has been dipped in acid.
    So, I might be willing to pay more than the net grade because it doesn't bother me as much as someone else.

    Joe.
  • nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
    So how does ANA determine a net grade?

    In light of what you all are saying, I think I like NCS's way of just listing problems and the details the coin shows. Sounds like it's a "decide for yourself" kind of thing.
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    suppose there are 2 morgan dollars available to you, same date & m/m. one is in generic ms-63 condition, & the redbook says it's worth $100. the 2nd looks EXACTLY the same as the first, except there is a sizeable scratch on the back.

    YOU might say "it's a nice coin , but i just can't tolerate scratches. i'd give 20 bucks for it", & according to the redbook, $20 is the value of XF. so for you , the coin net-grades XF-40.

    now, I might say "yeah, it has a scratch, but big deal, i need that date, & besides, the reverse won't show in my whitman folder anyhow. i'd give $75 for it". if the redbook value of $75 falls under the ms-60 column, then I net-grade the coin as ms-60.

    what i believe anacs will do is grade the coin as if it had no prob's 1st. then, they probably have a reference list that says

    cleaned - deduct 10 points
    whizzed - deduct 15 points
    holed - deduct 25 points
    bent - deduct 5 points
    small scratch on obv - deduct 5 points
    large scratch on obv - deduct 10 points
    large scratch on rev - deduct 5 points

    and so on & so forth. this approach tries to satisfy a "happy medium", but is really useful only in relative terms. ie, given 2 coins with identical details but vastly different problems, the one w/ the higher net-grade would presumably have fewer problems.

    the NCS approach works EXCEPT that it gives no indication of the "magnitude" of the problem, relative to other identical coins w/ similar prob's.

    does that help a little?

    K S
  • nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
    I think I have it now. It's just one of those things that do not make it into the grading books/videos. image
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    unfortunately, it is an EXTREMELY important aspect of coin collecting. the reality is, ALL coin grading is net-grading. ie knowing how much someone is willing to spend on a coin is the true, ultimate determination of it's grade. that is the reason that subjectivivity of grading is so important & can never be accomodated by certified grades.

    good luck!

    K S
  • nwcsnwcs Posts: 13,386 ✭✭✭
    That's true, I haven't thought about it being that all grading is essentially net grading. From the perfect strike (theoretical as it may be) and what defects detract from the grade. Hmm, you know you have a great point. When you grade from that perspective, it does make things easier to deal with. But I would also think that education is essential in doing it right. I'll have to ponder this for a while...
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,964 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Using the price guides to match the price one would pay with the grade might be one way to net grade in the short run, but there are flaws in that. First there could be a shift in prices between grades that could make that invalid. Second, for those who maintain condition census informaton for die varieites it doesn't help a bit, especially if the coin in quesiton is rare and seldom traded.

    Here's an example for you. The finest known and sharpest 1798, NC-1 large cent has been net graded to VF-20. Six examples of this variety are known; they are not bought and sold frequently; and the value is speculative.

    The coin in question has EF-40 sharpness by EAC standards (AU-50 by other people's standards) but it has a long and very deep scratch in the right obverse field. What if a clean VF-20 were to come along? Which would be better? A lot of copper collectors would prefer the clean VF-20. What if clean a Fine-15 were discovered? Would the collector who found that coin have a claim to say that he had the finest because he thinks that 20 points is not enought of a penalty for a mark that would make a common coin a cull?

    This is why net grading is not that easy.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • shirohniichanshirohniichan Posts: 4,992 ✭✭✭
    Bill has good examples.

    Here's another one. A couple years back there was an 1875-S/CC trade dollar listed as "AU details, net VF-35" because of a chopmark. Heritage started bidding around the VF price, but it finally sold for AU money. Why? Because it is one of the rarest chopmarked trade dollars, so it was worth about the same with or without the chopmark in AU. If it would have been a VF coin with a chopmark net graded F-12, it would have been worth MORE than VF money. On the other hand, if the coin had been a scratched coin net graded VF-35 with AU details, it may not even have brought VF money. One man's "damage" is another man's treasure.

    It is indeed complicated.
    image
    Obscurum per obscurius
  • goose3goose3 Posts: 11,471 ✭✭✭
    I like to determine it Myself which is why I do not like ANACS net graded coins. ANACS is essentially assigning a value to the coin.

    I can form my own opinion as to how bad any damage or problem is and pay what I feel is an appropriate price based on the problem as I see it.

    I would much rather buy these new NCS slabs anyday over an ANACS net slab.
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    note that my little discourse on net-grading coins specifically says YOU have to put a value on the coin YOURSELF. it is very much in line w/ my constant admonitions to "learn how to grade for yourself". again, if you yourself place a value on a coin (& therefore a net-grade, per my definition above), it is a very simple process to look up the corresponding grade.

    however, it is absolutely true that if you try to grade for the masses, as any plastic company does, you immediately violate the principle that all grading is SUBJECTIVE.

    also note that my definition of net-grading is also consistent w/ those rare coins that appear only once in a while. why? because i am allowing for the grade of a coin to change over time. again, that is part of the subjective aspect of grading. your opinion on what may or may not be desirable, and to what extent, is allowed to change over time.

    of course, the underlying principle for the whole net-grade topic is that net-grades were DEFINED by Dr. Sheldon as being reflective of the value of large cents to begin with. ie. if a basal state coin worth was worth $1, then G-4 was worth $4, and XF-40 worth $40.

    guess i'm just trying to say what works to me, & in fact i feel very strongly about it. it's why i constantly rail against slabs, because they completely violate my 1 constant principle, that a grade is SUBJECTIVE , & in truth cannot be certified any more than you can certify what constitutes art, and what does not.



    << <i>Using the price guides to match the price one would pay with the grade ... (has) flaws ...it doesn't help a bit, especially if the coin in quesiton is rare and seldom traded.... example ... The finest known and sharpest 1798, NC-1 large cent has been net graded to VF-20. Six examples of this variety are known; they are not bought and sold frequently; and the value is speculative.

    The coin in question has EF-40 sharpness by EAC standards (AU-50 by other people's standards) buy it has a long and very deep scratch in the right obverse field. What if a clean VF-20 where to come along? Which would be better? A lot of copper collectors would prefer the clean VF-20. What if clean a Fine-15 were discovered? Would the collector who found that coin have a claim to say that he had the finest because he thinks that 20 points is not enought of a penalty for a mark that would make a common coin a cull? >>

    but you see that this is just my point. you even used the phrase "finest known", to which i would respond "to who?" that in itself is subjective! and YES, the grade WOULD change if the entire population were suddenly shifted by a discovery hoard. you will never hear me use the phrase "finest known", because again, that is a matter of opinion.



    << <i>another one. A couple years back there was an 1875-S/CC trade dollar listed as "AU details, net VF-35" because of a chopmark. Heritage started bidding around the VF price, but it finally sold for AU money. Why? Because it is one of the rarest chopmarked trade dollars, so it was worth about the same with or without the chopmark in AU. If it would have been a VF coin with a chopmark net graded F-12, it would have been worth MORE than VF money. On the other hand, if the coin had been a scratched coin net graded VF-35 with AU details, it may not even have brought VF money. One man's "damage" is another man's treasure. >>

    this is a case where "grade" is not the issue. they are different coins. ie. there ought to be 2 separate lines in a price guide for 2 different coins, 1 w/out a chopmark, 1 with. by the fact that you are collecting that attribute of a coin ("chopmark"), it is NOT a grade determinant. that would be like saying "this dime was struck on a cent planchet, so it must be net-graded down 10 points due to damage".

    K S
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,964 ✭✭✭✭✭
    With respect, Dorkkarl, you can talk about subjective all you want, but that was the slippery slope language that a lot of crooks tried to use to try to get out of law suits in the 1980s after they ripped off many investors.

    Among dealers there are grading standards that go beyond subjective, and you had better learn them if you are in business. The alternatives are to leave the business or become a “flea market dealer,” which in the trade is a term of contempt. Determining grades is essential to setting values. If you can’t grade coins, you can’t begin to appraise their value.
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    hey bill, i do realize you & i are on opposite sides of the fence. i don't fancy myself a dealer at all, so i guess that what works for me may well not work for someone in the business. there may well be a distinction there, and i am fully sympathetic w/ your point of view.

    ie. i can afford the luxury of how i'm net-grading coin per my definition above, but i'm not buying for profit. you don't have such luxury, as you by definition have some motive for profit. note that i'm not saying this in a negative way whatsoever, it's the way the dealer/collector relationship should be.

    note also, that i'm not advocating grading ALL coins that way (though it is in effect how standards are established), but the issue raised concerned coins w/ damage.

    i appreciate your dealer's point of view on this forum.

    K S
  • ive never had an eye for grading coins. Ive always bought slabbed when it comes down to serious $$$

    although I did buy my CT Terc raw for 63 money and it slabbed pcgs 65 image
    image

    Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    the 1794 dollar that heritage just sold, the one that was repaired and slabed by pcgs at a net-grade of vf-30 is a perfect example of why net-grading is so subjective. the buyer evidently net-graded it as xf-45!!! because in trends, 80K+15% = 92K is the price in the xf-45 column.

    this is a 15 pt variation, which makes pcgs look foolish in a way. if they did their grading anacs/ncs style, they might have said "au details, repaired field" which would have been more useful then just a generic number. but i guess the did that to protect their "overgrading" guarantee.

    K S
  • GilbertGilbert Posts: 1,533 ✭✭✭
    ANACS net grades according to what the "market" will pay for a particular specimen. I like dorkkarl's example of net grading, with one exception, it is not just what you will pay - it is what the majority of like minded individuals would pay. That is how you arrive at a net-grade that is acceptable to the collecting community. Sure, anyone is free to limit the value of a coin to what one person will pay, but that isn't how you determine what a coin is worth to the collecting community - that is what it is worth to one person. I realize coin grading isn't a science per se, but neither is it a total crap shoot, that is, to the collecting community at large.

    I prefer to describe the details and the problem, remove the terminology of net-grade from my vocabulary, and let the chips fall where they may.
    Gilbert
  • BillJonesBillJones Posts: 33,964 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In the case of early coins in general and scarce and popular early coins, like 1794 silver dollar, in particular, collectors and dealers have been paying a lot more than Trends and other price lists. The selling price of this coin had less to do with what grade PCGS assigned to it and more to do with the current market for early U.S. coins. Currently a dealer can expect to pay at leaast 25 to 30 percent over Gray Sheet "bid" for most early U.S. coins. This has been the situation for early silver dollars for over threeyears and it has now spread to other early U.S. coins as well.

    I've not had a really nice early sivler dollar in quite a while. The last one I had was a 1798 in PCGS EF-45. It was totally original and very choice but it did have adjustment marks. At the time I bought it I paid $1,500 when the EF "bid" price was $950. I sold it to another dealer for $1,650 who was after me for more similar coins a month later. That indicated that he had made out quite well on that deal.

    I had only taken a quick look at the picture since I was not interested in purchasing the 1794 dollar. I did not realize that it had been repaired. I thought it looked really nice for a VF-30 graded coin. Now I understand why it had so much "meat" (detail) and was only graded VF-30
    Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
  • dorkkarldorkkarl Posts: 12,691 ✭✭✭
    thanks for the insight, bill. 1 thing i have learned over the last 20 years or so, it is VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE to overpay for a true, original early coin. they are extraordinarily rare, & will ALWAYS be in demand.

    K S

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