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Rolling the dice on a dateless SLQ
Just won the auction for this:

No reverse on the auction posting. Was part of a 10 piece lot of junk silver that I decided to zoom in on.
Diagnostics look good but we'll see in a week or so what actually arrives!
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The image posted in the OP is pretty small. Little, to no Shield Rivets does look promising, as does the bottom of the drapery fold on the right side not touching the base.
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Looks promising. Good luck.
Looks like a winner (meaning 1916). Congratulations!
Well Traveled what's left of it, but hey for melt why not.
Is there a market for 1916 Standing Liberty quarters in that state of wear? If so, how much might they bring?
It does look promising.
Looks good from here. Good catch.
Collector, occasional seller
Even in PO1, 1916 over $1000. GS has it at 1400 wholesale.
I wonder if Nic-a-date would bring the date out on this worn out old lady.
If a picture wasn't going very well I'd put a puppy dog in it, always a mongrel, you know, never one of the full bred puppies. And then I'd put a bandage on its foot... I liked it when I did it, but now I'm sick of it.
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The services might struggle calling this piece a 1916.I would need a 10x glass with coin in hand before having an opinion about 1916 or not.
If a picture wasn't going very well I'd put a puppy dog in it, always a mongrel, you know, never one of the full bred puppies. And then I'd put a bandage on its foot... I liked it when I did it, but now I'm sick of it.
Norman Rockwell
A glass is useless for identifying this variety. The post above from @oih82w8 shows the right way to tell.
I've tried it... no dice.
mr1931S is useless for identifying this variety.
Chances are minimal but why not try? A guy at the local flea market claimed two of his Standing quarters were "1916" but weren't.
Fortunately, the grading services (as well as many collectors and dealers) don’t need a 10X glass with coin in hand, in order to make a determination.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Chances are minimal for what? He's already identified the 1916 die markers.
Try what? I hope you don't mean putting nic-a-date on a 1916 standing liberty quarter. No sane person would do that.
Chances appear far greater than minimal that it’s a 1916. What was the basis for your comment?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
By Jove I think you've got it!
Pete
Nice score. Knowledge is power as the phrase goes, and in this case profit as well.
Not my series, does the 1917 diagnostics above apply to both the Type I and II coins ?
I'm not certain what you are getting at with this question, but since the Type II has a different reverse with stars under the eagle then the obverse diagnostics aren't so important
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Wasn't sure if only the reverse was different with the Type I.
Nic A Date is a weak acid that removes some of the copper-nickel. It works because the area under the numbers is hardened (work hardening) more than the flat area during the strike.
ANA 50+ year/Life Member (now "Emeritus")
Author: 3rd Edition of the SampleSlabs book, https://sampleslabs.info/
It is fun to read the various responses to this thread and then separate the wheat (collectors with integrity wishing success to the OP) from the chaff (jealous, small-minded members).
ignoring the reverse, the bottom left curl on the gown at the floor is totally different between T1 and T2
Send it in to be graded. The question is which would be the most likely to make the courageous decision if it actually is a 1916? Maybe cacg is worth a shot?
I will hopefully get the coin Saturday or Monday. I'll post better pics then!
If you picked this up in a junk/damaged lot for melt congrats. Hopefully the reverse is not damaged or ex-jewelry.
There’s no need to be “courageous”, as it should be an easy call.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Nice grab! Looks like a 1916.
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NO, nic-a-date only works on nickel.
There was a silver nic-a-date at one time, but was taken off the market.
You need a stronger oxidizing acid. It was probably considered too dangerous.
It would also be ridiculous to do it with this coin as it can be authenticated without the date.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
The first and 3rd PO1 auctions have photos
https://www.pcgs.com/auctionprices/item/1916-25c-standing-liberty/5704/7562230888962978707
https://www.pcgs.com/auctionprices/item/1916-25c-standing-liberty/5704/198761165675727853
ANA 50+ year/Life Member (now "Emeritus")
Author: 3rd Edition of the SampleSlabs book, https://sampleslabs.info/
It looks like PCGS has certified 61 P01 1916 25c coins, at least at this level there are few crackouts. Then you could try to get the cac sticker which looks to be hard at only 11 approved.
That is the most worn slick one have ever seen. Somebody will pay melt for that?
Wow, did you even look at the comments immediately before yours? Might be a good idea...
I would imagine that most collectors feel that a coin like this doesn't need a CAC sticker.
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All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
I actually, I think it would benefit. This is not a coin that is simply a low ball. It is a key date.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
Just look? Do I have to read them?
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
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Great thread. Didn’t know what I didn’t know about identifying 1916 SLQs.
Smitten with DBLCs.
It's particularly important to know how to recognize it without the date, which is quite fortunate, as the date was the highest point on the coin so took the most early wear. And with such a low mintage, it is rare to start. Here is a little picture that I keep to jog my old memory:
I'm almost positive that I can see the second strand of hair at the back of the head, but I have been wrong before and hope I am again, Good Luck.
Question that's never been answered -- does lack of a CAC bean (assuming it's been submitted) mean it's WORSE than PO1 or BETTER (and thus a FR2)?????
ANA 50+ year/Life Member (now "Emeritus")
Author: 3rd Edition of the SampleSlabs book, https://sampleslabs.info/
Seeing as all the other die markers identify it as a 1916, the appearance of a second strand of hair is most definitely a result of the image's low quality.
Young Numismatist • My Toned Coins
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The reverse will be a big part of the mystery here and all but seal the deal as a 1916. Good luck!
CAC bean always means high end for the grade.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
This is a common misconception.
A CAC sticker on a PO1 coin doesn't mean it has less wear (and is almost or is a FA2) but rather it is an attractive PO1. The wear can be significant and complete for the grade and if the overall appeal is positive CAC will award the sticker.
It most certainly doesn’t. It means solid for the grade or better - A quality or B quality, but not C quality.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.