PCGS Pricing Guides
JeremyBolt
Posts: 14 ✭
How do we go about getting PCGS registry coin pricing updated? The price books are really off for Rarity items and top tops. Is there anyone that we can email coin invoices to get PCGS to update the records?
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I'd like to see a current price valuation for the 1948-S PCGS MS68RD Lincoln Cent that was certified recently.
If they do, it'll be a guess and I'm not sure if that helps. Until it trades, no one really knows what the market value is.
On another note, I'm a little surprised that was graded a 68 as typically 68RD Lincolns almost look perfect. This reverse is not a 68 as it has carbon spots and a weak strike around the rim.
https://pcgs.com/setregistry/showcase/2819
Super gem common date Saints are apparently selling under spot.
Get-em while they last
My Saint Set
I would like to know what differentiates a PCGS MS68RD from a PCGS MS67+RD Lincoln Wheat Cent.
Contact the PCGS registry folks. Provide them with the coin and all of it's identification information, then give them a screenshot or provide a photo of the auction's selling price, etc. Give them about a week and contact them to see if they have the info you sent them. When I've made POP 1 coins, or when buy a new coin and the price is significantly different, I've contacted the registry folks. In some cases they have asked me for a new price recommend. They have been good to communicate with and have made it in short fashion the new price in the guide.
Many times 58's sell consistently for more than 61's and 62's... and, thereby, the pricing in guides are way below actual. I don't believe that will ever be rectified. Someone, somewhere, believes the pricing rules must always be suppressed pricing for 58's to keep them below uncirculateds.
A Barber Quartet is made up of Nickels, Dimes, Quarters, and Halves.
I partition my hunt for AU 58's as "A' grade, "B" grade, "C" maybe c+ , and "D'
They are all in 58 Slabs but the "A's" and "B's are far far less scratchy to the eye then the lower ones.
I only consider buying "A's" or "B's", unless a"C" is a very rare coin.
just some degrees of rub/wear on A or B coins.
this is sort of an eye appeal partitioning. and where the the more value is to a buyer.