Type set, beyond the basics

Seraph21

Hi all. Question for all the type set collectors. I'm a dime collector, and I've managed to get some good specimens based on all the the types in the PCGS registry. Of course there's additional varieties for dimes. Of course I wouldn't even consider the 1 Disme as part of the type set as I'm not rich.

Would any of you consider when creating a complete dime type set to include the following, as they are US coins AND design modifications.

For the Seated Liberty Type

According to Gerry Fortin, there's 8 design varieties for the SLD https://www.seateddimevarieties.com/MajorDesignGroups.htm

The main set usually includes:

• No Stars
• Stars Obverse - No Drapery
• Stars Obverse - With Drapery
• Stars Obverse - Arrows at Date
• Legend Obverse
• Legend Obverse - Arrows at Date

Would completeness include breaking down the Legend Obverse design group to Type I, Type II, and the Barber Reverse Type II in your opinions?

Then there is the Pattern J-233 1859 Transitional, would you include that in your set if it was affordable?

For the Roosevelt Type

The main set usually includes:

• Silver (90%) 1946-64
• Clad 1965-Present

Personally I'm including the 2000-present Smaller head design modification in my type set, as well as a composition change to 99.9% fineness Silver (2019-present) proof with the same idea as the Silver to Clad metal change.

For Territorial

The main set usually includes:

• Hawaii
• Philippines - Large Size
• Philippines - Small size
• Philippines - Commonwealth

For this one my question is, do you consider putting Puerto Rico coinage (the PGV) as part of your type set even though it was a Spanish mint coin.

Finally my question for everyone that are type set collectors, what makes you consider your type sets to be "complete" in terms of filling all your "slots". I know collecting is never complete as there will always be upgrades, but my question is more targeted towards your considerations of the "Types" in the type set.

For me, I don't consider my dime type set complete until I fill the slots for the Transitional, and the territorials. I'm still debating with myself on whether to include the extra types based on GF's list, and the Puerto Rico. Let me know what you all think?

MEJ7070

Personally, I’ve been working to varying degrees on a 7070 style type set of CAC approved coins for going on 5 years now. Completing that set (which I have not) with the quality of coins I’m trying to stick with has been challenging enough without going down further rabbit holes.

That said if/when I can get to the finish line on my set I’m very excited about the possibilities of expanding to include both gold and additional silver varieties (ie large bust quarters and dimes, as well as the Fortin varieties you’ve mentioned).

I have tremendous respect for collectors who have reached the darkest parts of the variety rabbit holes. Maybe one day I’ll be inspired to do the same……but the good ol. 7070 set is challenging enough for now!

The_Dinosaur_Man

I was talking with someone the other day about the categories for Roosevelt Dimes. I forget which service is doing this, there is another split 1992-2018 for modern silver proofs and 2019-Date for 0.999 silver proofs. Do with that information as you will.

I think you have the Seated Dimes down pat, including if the transitional variety is affordable. I don't recall there being anything traditional about including it in a type set since its only a pattern and not an official coin.

Puerto Rico should be its own entity separate from the United States and even Spain for the purists. Those coins were the only ones made by Spain for the former colony. Their production timing was close enough to the Spanish-American War that they were still in wide circulation after the war had ended.

Aspie_Rocco

I have evolved into mainly type set collecting in recent years and have not gone farther than capped bust for dimes and halves. Mostly for budget reasons.
For seated dimes I have few but also have no plans to get all 8, I am only looking at stars, no stars, one arrows example, and legend.
The compulsion to fill all the registry slots has faded away and now I just get what I like. I am largely content with one of each series in my 1/2¢ through $1.
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1114906/updated-progress-report-low-budget-cac-type-set-1-2-through-1#latest

Seraph21

@The_Dinosaur_Man, You are correct, my modern rossie type includes:

• 2017 P Reverse Proof for the modern 90%
• 2017 S Enhanced Unc for the 2000+ small head type
• 2019 S Proof for the 99.9%

Yep for the Puerto Rico, though places like the Red Book list it as part of the Territorial section.

seatedlib3991

@Seraph 21. I'm not exactly sure what kind of collector I am but i do know I prefer to set my own definitions for what should be in a set. I have been discussing my Seated Dime set on MYCollect under the Seated Type Group.
I like a collection that tries to capture the essesnce of what that coin was in it's time. For me that means adding things like mintmark coins, variety coins like DDR, DDO, etc. I also have no problem going off the path to collect what i like best. for me that is what I call the type 1 coins. 1837-1840 ND. Good luck with your set. James

oldabeintx

I have expanded type sets. For dimes I’ve completed the usual registry type up to the 21st century. I use my own judgement when going beyond the traditional registry type. If the design is sufficiently different to my eyes I add it. As far as modern I only include coins intended for circulation. This avoids the wasteful exercise of collecting the myriad mint creations sold to collectors.

My US territory set does not include PR.

I only collect “intentional” varieties.

winesteven

There are two ways to go:
1. The “Traditional” way, by selecting “Registry” Type sets, and using those slots;
2. “Your way”, which is including slots that YOU determine is best for YOU!

The good news is there is absolutely NO right or wrong way to do it! Our wonderful hobby allows each of us the freedom and ability to take pleasure and to be proud of the coins, AND GRADES, AND holder types that we choose, including raw coins!

Steve

yosclimber

You can choose any level of detail that you prefer when defining your type set.
Using a small level of detail expands the set, so the journey will last longer.
The smallest level of detail can be defined as any time the hub changes.
Seated dime obverse hubs include those with the date and arrows on the hub in 1853, 1854 and 1855.

For Seated dimes, one thing you are missing is the Reverse Open Bud vs. Closed Bud that happens at roughly
the same time that Extra Drapery was added.
https://www.seateddimevarieties.com/Basic_Varieties.htm

winesteven

@yosclimber said:
…..For Seated dimes, one thing you are missing is the Reverse Open Bud vs. Closed Bud that happens at roughly the same time that Extra Drapery was added.
https://www.seateddimevarieties.com/Basic_Varieties.htm

This Bud’s for you! 😂 (for those in the younger generations, this was a VERY popular line in their ads in the 70’s and 80’s).

Steve

Seraph21

Of course. There's way too many varieties for the seated series, in every denomination. Like @oldabeintx, for myself, I'm looking for designs that are sufficiently different to my eyes, made of different metal compositions, or size.

I'm very curious what everyone else does once they complete the "Traditional" registry route that @winesteven mentioned, to keep the adventure going.

winesteven

@Seraph21 said:
I'm very curious what everyone else does once they complete the "Traditional" registry route that @winesteven mentioned, to keep the adventure going.

So here’s what I chose to do. Once I finished my decades long endeavor of putting together a broad Type Set (see the hotlink below in my auto-signature for my #3 ranked Dansco 7070 set), I chose to start putting different sets together. I tried to choose sets that require fewer coins, and DATE sets. In denomination order, I’ve now “completed” a Flying Eagle Cent set, an Indian Head Cent set, a Lincoln Wheat DATE set, a Two-Cent set, a Matte Proof Buffalo set, a Capped Bust Dime set, a Twenty-Cent business strike set, a Standing Lib Quarter FH DATE set, a Classic Silver Commem Type set, a Proof Franklin set, a Morgan Dollar DATE set, and a Peace Dollar Date set. I’m currently working on a Capped Bust Half-Dime set and a Proof Barber Dime set. My guess at this time is that will be all for me, and I plan on selling my collection in about five years (if I’m still alive at that time).

Steve

seatedlib3991

@winesteven . That is quite a list. Seeing a FH Standing Liberty set gave me the greatest pause. I don't have a broad enough experience as a collector to know where that fits in your pantheon, but I consider that a prodigious task. James

winesteven

Thanks for your kind words. Keep in mind that SLQ Full Head set is a DATE set, so there are only 14 coins, and I had the ability to choose the most common mint (Philly) for each date.

The honest truth is I’m actually VERY proud of each of my sets!

Steve

oldabeintx

@winesteven said:
Thanks for your kind words. Keep in mind that SLQ Full Head set is a DATE set, so there are only 14 coins, and I had the ability to choose the most common mint (Philly) for each date.

The honest truth is I’m actually VERY proud of each of my sets!

Steve

I love your 1916. Do you start with the low-hanging fruit, the tougher dates, or first available meeting your standards?

calgolddiver

@winesteven has put together some great and impressive sets.

I took a different approach regarding type set expansion. I started with my Dad's typeset (over and above all my other collecting interests) and successfully built a top 20 set (below). I have since broadened my reach to 7070 and larger typesets in the registry to keep me going while I think about the whale needed to complete the original set (early $10).

I also continue with my Cal fractional collecting as well as my sidetrack interest in CWTs which was triggered by @DCW

Good luck with your sets and the ongoing quest !!

Seraph21

@winesteven Your sets are always so impressive, I've enjoyed the photos of your recent Barber proof dimes in the other thread. Those blast white coins in your 7070, love them!

winesteven

@oldabeintx said:

@winesteven said:
Thanks for your kind words. Keep in mind that SLQ Full Head set is a DATE set, so there are only 14 coins, and I had the ability to choose the most common mint (Philly) for each date.

The honest truth is I’m actually VERY proud of each of my sets!

Steve

I love your 1916. Do you start with the low-hanging fruit, the tougher dates, or first available meeting your standards?

Unlike the conventional wisdom of shooting for the key and tougher dates first, with all of my sets, I get coins that meet my criteria when they become available via auction or through dealers.

With that method, I’ll admit a bad numismatic habit. Since my criteria includes getting coins not only with nice eye appeal TO ME, but they also have to be graded only by PCGS and have CAC stickers, sometimes I buy coins in grades slightly lower than the actual grade I prefer. With many of the coins I want, the pops that fit my needs are sometimes small, and I have no idea how long it’ll be before I find a coin that meets my criteria in the grade I really want. As such, many times I buy coins in a grade or two lower than my ideal. Then if and when the right coin in the right grade appears, I’ll upgrade to that coin. Yes, I then sell that “filler”, often at a loss. To me, that’s ok. I think of that loss as the “rent” that I paid to have that coin as a filler for that period of time.

Steve

BillJones

I messed around with the idea of expanding my type set, once I finished it according to the list on the NGC registry. Most of the new additions were the early coins where are some real differences.

The type is "Liberty Cap Half Cent," but they can look like these two. There is quite a difference. There are more 1794s you can get, but it gets very expensive to do them all.

You can do a similar thing with large cents. Here are the heads of 1794, '95 and '96. There is a Head of 1793, but don't even get me started on that. It is a major investment. It was issued at the end of 1793 and at the beginning of 1794.

1794 high relief

1795 low relief

1796 somewhere between the two.

lkenefic

It took me around 25 years to complete my raw Everyman 7070, sans gold...

After that endeavor, I got back into early copper and started a Box of 20. The Box has earlier coins not represented in the 7070... i also included Gold by Denomination. As @BillJones said, there are so many varieties of just individual dates that completion of a set is quite daunting... even just a date set!

I settled on Middle Dates and attempted Red Book varieties for a while until I discovered Wayte Raymond Large Cent albums. I completed the second album... the first album has all the 1793's, '99, 1804 and a few tough varieties of Draped Bust Cents... unobtainium for me... but I have a pretty good representation.

I also delved into other series after the 7070 and LCs were done... Buffalo Nickels...

The Box of 20 is an ever evolving "set"... even when it's done, it won't be "done".

Edited to add: and after 3 years of a complete 7070, I'm starting to get some of these coins recertified... so whereas the set is complete, the actual album has holes...

oldabeintx

Taking off on the above posts, early coins include a number of sub-types. I think I have 3 or 4 different Type 1 bust halves as an example. Across the 19th century spectrum there are large letters, small letters, and medium letters. Different metal compositions. Reverses of different types, such as with and without stems.

It’s fun adding coins that are just interesting to type sets. I have several Morgans, such as a rainbow toner, a DMPL, each of the mints. I have a chopmarked trade dollar, a seated half recovered from a shipwreck, a seated NO half minted by the CSA (and one by LA). I have a set of Liberty half eagles representing all of the 19th and early 20th century mints.

Part of the fun expanding beyond traditional types is doing the research, and using one’s imagination.

Mr_Spud

I might go back for varieties some day, and some coins in my type sets are varieties, but mainly I am first trying to get one of each of the main recognized coin types. I’ll never be done done, just done with sections at a time. Like one of each coin type from the 1800’s, 1900’s, 2000’s then 1700’s. After I one of each type of US coin then maybe I’ll consider going after varieties or Proofs, but just maybe.