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What's a Bust die variety collector to do?

My mission (should I chose to accept it) is attempting an 1831 Bust quarter die variety set! Of course, I'd like to complete this project on a budget... hence my dilemma. How do you reconcile the many parameters that help determine what you add to the collection?
*Technical grade
*Surface quality
*Eye appeal
*Straight grade
*TPG holder
*Cost
*CAC
If you have any additional words of wisdom, I'm all ears. Heck, this applies to all US coin series that are collected by die variety!
Thanks

Comments

  • Davidk7Davidk7 Posts: 333 ✭✭✭✭

    I'd check to see whether any die varieties are exceedingly rare, so that you can determine what grade range you want to be in. If one is out of your budget you'll need to think about whether you want a uniformly graded die variety set, or are ok with a lower grade example if the die variety is rare. The rest of the attributes you have listed really come down to personal preference, budget, and what you like the most in a coin.

    Grade range and budget are most important to start, then I'd go with the grading preferences. I collect Bust Halves by die variety and I've found that being in the 35-58 range with eye appeal gives me the most bang for my buck.

    Quick glance at the 1831 Varieties, the B-7 looks to be one that has a substantial premium and one that comes up almost never at auction.

    Collector of Capped Bust Halves, SLQ's, Commems, and random cool stuff! @davidv_numismatics on Instagram

  • seatedlib3991seatedlib3991 Posts: 710 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I do not know much about this date and denomination. In the past I tried to build 2 different sets using die marriages. Both were Seated Half dollars. One was the 1840-O the other was the 1861-O. In both cases I failed for 3 reasons.
    The first was that just because I want to buy something that doesn't mean other people want to SELL their coin(s).
    The second was that at the time many people who were selling coins, even auction sites, did not offer good enough pictures to make a clear identification. I think this has improved.
    The third was that I underestimated the funds I would need. Prices seemed to spiral up almost from the moment I started. Circa 2005.
    I wish you the best of luck. James

  • WaterSportWaterSport Posts: 6,772 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Learn to cherry pick as many as you can.

    WS

    Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.
  • scubafuelscubafuel Posts: 1,849 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited November 20, 2024 7:26AM

    You will be able to buy B1-B6 with little or no premium. So it just depends on your budget and what grades you want. I think the coins look great in VF-XF personally.

    You’ll be able to find a B7 in VF-XF but they are rare. It will take a few years and that coin will cost $6-8k (about 2x as much as the others combined)
    If you are ok with VG-F for that coin, it will be significantly easier to find and maybe cost $2-3k.

  • As a heavy collector of bust coins myself, the overriding factor typically should be sharpness of detail, as that is obviously important to attributing in the first place. If you are seriously going to collect die-marriages, almost all those other factors are a distant second.

    James at EarlyUS.com

    On the web: http://www.earlyus.com
  • pursuitoflibertypursuitofliberty Posts: 6,920 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Great advice here. Nothing really to add. Good luck!!


    “We are only their care-takers,” he posed, “if we take good care of them, then centuries from now they may still be here … ”

    Todd - BHNC #242
  • johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 28,325 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @WaterSport said:
    Learn to cherry pick as many as you can.

    WS

    work on a keen eye as well ;)

  • BikergeekBikergeek Posts: 412 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @NorthStar said:
    Of course, I'd like to complete this project on a budget...

    I'm going to play devil's advocate here. It took me a long time to conclude that, for myself, the VERY BEST I can afford is what I valued most. And to do so, I had to lower the breadth of my goals and increase the depth. Fewer sets - but better coins. Now, reality dictates that I'm not going to have the #1 pop variety most of the time.

    By being willing to spend a little more or wait a little longer, I can have MORE of these elements:
    *Technical grade
    *Surface quality
    *Eye appeal
    *Straight grade
    *TPG holder
    *Cost
    *CAC

    And heck, I like ramen, and don't mind wearing old shoes!

    PS. I've had better luck reselling things that I had to stretch to acquire in the first place.

    New website: Groovycoins.com Capped Bust Half Dime registry set: Bikergeek CBHD LM Set

  • BustDMsBustDMs Posts: 1,608 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Surfaces, surfaces, surfaces in ANY grade you choose.

    Q: When does a collector become a numismatist?



    A: The year they spend more on their library than their coin collection.



    A numismatist is judged more on the content of their library than the content of their cabinet.

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