Do you grade circulated coins, awarding a grade considering the weakest side or do you average both?

braddick

For example, you have a coin with a GD04 obverse and a PO1 or FA2 reverse- would you average the coin and grade it AG3 or should it only be awarded a grade worthy of its weakest side?

Here is a (key date) Mecury dime:
I'd grade the obverse AG3- yet perhaps GD4 but the reverse is a FA2.

What would you give as an overall grade?

(PCGS graded it AG3)

seatedlib3991

I will note whether I think an obv or rev are weak or strong but always set the grade at the lowest grade either side. either it is ALL there or it is not. James

CRHer700

I would average it. The above coin looks like a solid AG3. I would also take into account that the reverse on this particular issue often wears quicker than the obverse, so I would call both the obverse and reverse AG3. This is, of course, subjective.

braddick

@CRHer700 said:
I would average it. The above coin looks like a solid AG3. I would also take into account that the reverse on this particular issue often wears quicker than the obverse, so I would call both the obverse and reverse AG3. This is, of course, subjective.

I would call this a quintessential "perfect" AG3 (so does PCGS):

PCGS AG3 (close up of the reverse):

PCGS AG3 (the coin shown above in the OP, close up of the reverse):

PCGS FA2:

Edited to add the FA2 photo.

asheland

Typically, I go with the lower grade unless it’s a striking issue. If it’s a striking issue, I would probably average it.

CRHer700

@braddick said:

@CRHer700 said:
I would average it. The above coin looks like a solid AG3. I would also take into account that the reverse on this particular issue often wears quicker than the obverse, so I would call both the obverse and reverse AG3. This is, of course, subjective.

I would call this a quintessential "perfect" AG3 (so does PCGS):

PCGS AG3 (close up of the reverse):

PCGS AG3 (the coin shown above in the OP, close up of the reverse):

PCGS FA2:

Edited to add the FA2 photo.

If yours is not as good as the AG3 and better than the FR2, then why don't we call it "Fairly Good 2.5". I then would use math and determine that 2.5 rounds to 3.

hummingbird_coins

I would grade the coin Fair. The reverse is about as worn as it gets without being impossible to tell if there's a mintmark or not, and the obverse is only a little wear away from being as worn as possible with a visible date.

Cougar1978

I agree with our hosts grade of AG03, MV $50. Cert 50402118

For raw - It’s an overall technical grading G, VG,F, VF, VF+, etc. - then in any discounting or bump up appeal of the coin, it’s demand etc. in grading raw both sides have to make the grade.

For slabbed my opinion TPG grade and then evaluate as to A, B, C. From that pricing can be developed. I do not pay over the grade on the holder.

I don’t buy anything under G04

OldeTowneCoinShoppe

I think the OP dime is a tad overgraded at AG-3, although the pics might be blurring it a little. It looks FA-2 to me. The 1916-D following is a lock at AG-3, however - about picture perfect.

To answer the question, generally, the weaker side determines the grade.

Moldnut

Both look FA-2 to me. To be honest, I’m not a fan of how our host grades lower end 16-D dimes to begin with.

braddick

@Moldnut said:
Both look FA-2 to me. To be honest, I’m not a fan of how our host grades lower end 16-D dimes to begin with.

Please be aware the dime ending in PCGS 758 is an AG3.
The dime ending in PCGS 834 is a FA2.

pursuitofliberty

The original coin is a '21, and the following examples are '16's. This represents a difference in and of itself for Merc's.

I can't technically grade well at this level, but the '21 looks about right. While it COULD be higher from the Obverse, the Reverse is most certainly not.

But it doesn't look like a 2 either. Images are washed out. Typical these days.

To answer the question, only the Obverse can carry up to the next point in my mind, 99.9% of the time. The Reverse has to be close to, or "shot up" if that's the case. So, I generally grade at the lowest side, but some averaging always takes place I think (whether I do it consciously or not).

ShaunBC5

On coins that low I probably average. If it’s XF/AU I probably go with the lower side. Can’t give any reasoning for it. Feels right.

noenhancedproof

I can’t even verify the date/MM in this coin to be honest.

johnny9434

@seatedlib3991 said:
I will note whether I think an obv or rev are weak or strong but always set the grade at the lowest grade either side. either it is ALL there or it is not. James

Those goes for me as well

291fifth

Think like a dealer. The weakest side determines the grade.

habaraca

@291fifth said:
Think like a dealer. The weakest side determines the grade.

when buying yes, I agree.... but when they sell it has been my experience they tend to grade by the best side.......

Lakesammman

Agree - depends on if I'm buying or selling.

ernie11

Don't laugh, but this is my coward's answer. I do my utmost best to avoid owning coins with mismatched obverse / reverse grades.

Crepidodera

The OP's example is a textbook F2, not close to AG3.

PerryHall

There have been several past threads on this topic. In those past threads, many posters claimed that the grading services used an average of both sides of the coin while giving a greater weight to the obverse side of the coin (60% for the obverse and 40% for the reverse). The early ANACS photo certificates showed a separate grade for each side of the coin but went to a single grade when they started encapsulating coins which became the standard practice established by PCGS and NGC..

Barberian

@ernie11 said:
Don't laugh, but this is my coward's answer. I do my utmost best to avoid owning coins with mismatched obverse / reverse grades.

This coin needed a home as a Guess the Grade stumper. (F15)

Crepidodera

Here's another mismatched obverse/reverse liberty seated example. The obverse is a legitimate F15, the reverse is more like VF25 or 30. (F15)

Doug