Well, the financial downside is not nearly as pronounced as one might think given the grade drop since the coin sold at HA for $5,520 less than a year ago and a nice PCGS PR66 is likely a $3k+ coin. Regardless, I would have thought a crossover would be a better bet since by cracking it out you not only lose the NGC uber-grade, but you also could have imparted hairlines all over the coin or in just enough places to legitimately reduce a PCGS PR68 candidate to PCGS PR66.
You had it crossgraded in twelve minutes, but some of us wait for months....
God bless all who believe in him. Do unto others what you expect to be done to you. Dubbed a "Committee Secret Agent" by @mr1931S on 7/23/24. Founding member of CU Anti-Troll League since 9/24/24.
When it comes to judging coins in these lofty grades very minor things that can easily be missed in a photograph, that might hold a coin back, can more easily be seen in hand. That said, 68 to 66 means somebody really screwed up.
The longer I live the more convincing proofs I see of this truth, that God governs in the affairs of men. And if a sparrow cannot fall to the ground without His notice is it possible for an empire to rise without His aid? Benjamin Franklin
I'm all for trying the crack out game, but in this particular case when you had a very high grade in the first place and you were trying to get the same or even one higher grade from a tougher grading company, in my opinion, it was a very bad idea with very little chance for financial gain.
@DoubleEagle59 said:
I'm all for trying the crack out game, but in this particular case when you had a very high grade in the first place and you were trying to get the same or even one higher grade from a tougher grading company, in my opinion, it was a very bad idea with very little chance for financial gain.
It’s not an opinion it’s a once again proven fact.
I would never crack out a PR-68. There is no up side. That is true especially when the piece has been dipped. The great Proofs from this era have blue toning and no hairlines. I’ve owned the toning and originality, but not the lack of hairlines.
Retired dealer and avid collector of U.S. type coins, 19th century presidential campaign medalets and selected medals. In recent years I have been working on a set of British coins - at least one coin from each king or queen who issued pieces that are collectible. I am also collecting at least one coin for each Roman emperor from Julius Caesar to ... ?
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Don't think OP is coming back.
He's a good sport, posting a rough result like that.
Generously low hanging fruit for the keyboard crowd...
Good on ya mate!
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
I have. I sold a couple extras last year. Whatever wholesale sheet most of the dealers reference was getting me offers in the 2000-2500 range, which i assume is what you're looking at. It took some legwork, but i was able to find buyers for the 2 i had at 4k each. I dont consider that a significant loss from the auction result, if we assume thats what he paid.
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
I have. I sold a couple extras last year. Whatever wholesale sheet most of the dealers reference was getting me offers in the 2000-2500 range, which i assume is what you're looking at. It took some legwork, but i was able to find buyers for the 2 i had at 4k each. I dont consider that a significant loss from the auction result, if we assume thats what he paid.
I think you did well at $4000 each. Regardless, if he lost anywhere close to the difference between roughly $5500 and $4000, that’s substantially more than “I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade”.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
I have. I sold a couple extras last year. Whatever wholesale sheet most of the dealers reference was getting me offers in the 2000-2500 range, which i assume is what you're looking at. It took some legwork, but i was able to find buyers for the 2 i had at 4k each. I dont consider that a significant loss from the auction result, if we assume thats what he paid.
I think you did well at $4000 each. Regardless, if he lost anywhere close to the difference between roughly $5500 and $4000, that’s substantially more than “I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade”.
I believe that with that level of contrast on the coin he could do better than I did with the right buyer, hence my original comment.
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
I bought the coin, not the holder. You don't loose until you sell. It's a nice coin; but I never expected a PCGS 68. I was hoping for a 67. I don't like NGC holders (just a persona preference). Thank you everyone for your comments.
No - I play to win not lose. If submitting something like a 68 I would specify minimum grade on the form (68 or higher). No holder or sticker game for me lol - would spend that (loss) on nice slabbed bullion coins. Would price the 68 around NGC price then might discount during haggling if some room. Additionally that piece only 68 of that issue in bourse room, a corner stone coin. Looks like nice coin, 70 is perfect lol.
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
I bought the coin, not the holder. You don't loose until you sell. It's a nice coin; but I never expected a PCGS 68. I was hoping for a 67. I don't like NGC holders (just a persona preference). Thank you everyone for your comments.
If you like coins in PCGS holders I would suggest not buying coins in NGC holders. Very few of us, myself included, are successful in the crossover game.
Strongly disagree with “you don’t looose until you sell” comment. If I bought a stock at $50/share and it’s worth $25/share today I guess I haven’t lost any money today because I haven’t sold the stock although the value of the stock is worth 50% less. You may have to wait 25 years if you’re lucky until being able to break even on your coin.
@humanssuck said:
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
I bought the coin, not the holder. You don't loose until you sell. It's a nice coin; but I never expected a PCGS 68. I was hoping for a 67. I don't like NGC holders (just a persona preference). Thank you everyone for your comments.
If you like coins in PCGS holders I would suggest not buying coins in NGC holders. Very few of us, myself included, are successful in the crossover game.
Strongly disagree with “you don’t looose until you sell” comment. If I bought a stock at $50/share and it’s worth $25/share today I guess I haven’t lost any money today because I haven’t sold the stock although the value of the stock is worth 50% less. You may have to wait 25 years if you’re lucky until being able to break even on your coin.
I also disagree with the idea that “you don’t lose until you sell”. You have lost, even if you don’t sell. You might gain it or more back (or even have a gain) before you sell, but in the meantime, you’ve lost. It’s just not a “realized” loss until there’s a sale.
Try using stock or other collateral to get a loan against it and see if the lender cares about your cost, rather than present market value.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Comments
It's to late
No, I'd leave it. 68 looks accurate, maybe even generous.
Coin Photographer.
Leave it, Im having trouble getting to 68 with those pictures but Im ok with it at that level. A PCGS 68 would need more oomph imo.
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Since it dropped to a 66, why are you even asking the question?
Why wouldn't you have tried to cross it rather than cracking it?
That is unfortunate. Send it to CAC to try for the gold now IMO.
Coin Photographer.
Another coin that the slab and sticker craze has turned into a money pit.
Well, the financial downside is not nearly as pronounced as one might think given the grade drop since the coin sold at HA for $5,520 less than a year ago and a nice PCGS PR66 is likely a $3k+ coin. Regardless, I would have thought a crossover would be a better bet since by cracking it out you not only lose the NGC uber-grade, but you also could have imparted hairlines all over the coin or in just enough places to legitimately reduce a PCGS PR68 candidate to PCGS PR66.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
I would have left it. However it is a beauty no matter what the "number" is.
Are you happy with if being a PCGS 66 versus a NGC 68?
You had it crossgraded in twelve minutes, but some of us wait for months....
God bless all who believe in him. Do unto others what you expect to be done to you. Dubbed a "Committee Secret Agent" by @mr1931S on 7/23/24. Founding member of CU Anti-Troll League since 9/24/24.
No.
Wow, NGC 68 to PCGS 66!
When it comes to judging coins in these lofty grades very minor things that can easily be missed in a photograph, that might hold a coin back, can more easily be seen in hand. That said, 68 to 66 means somebody really screwed up.
NGC is loose by at least 1 point in every major coin series. This result was to be expected....PCGS doesn't hand out 68's like candy.
I'm all for trying the crack out game, but in this particular case when you had a very high grade in the first place and you were trying to get the same or even one higher grade from a tougher grading company, in my opinion, it was a very bad idea with very little chance for financial gain.
Cracking out NGC coins at lofty grades is not for the faint of heart. You have provided a good example for others to learn from.
"Look up, old boy, and see what you get." -William Bonney.
Ouch.
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Cracking out a proof-68 Barber? Playing the sticker game would have been a far cheaper option. I’m afraid the horse has left the barn.
You can always crack it out again and send it to NGC.
It’s not an opinion it’s a once again proven fact.
No... and with a 68 grade, why?
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
Good luck getting it back in an NGC 68 holder
I would never crack out a PR-68. There is no up side. That is true especially when the piece has been dipped. The great Proofs from this era have blue toning and no hairlines. I’ve owned the toning and originality, but not the lack of hairlines.
Someone likely tried that coin 5-10+ times at NGC just to get MS 68 once.
People need to understand that in the grading game, uber grades usually don't happen on the first try.
That is unfortunate.
I think your first tip was the original NGC slab did not have a CAC.
The real question here is why should you? I’d like to know your thoughts as to why you did
@Iceman6628
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Martin
oopsy
I dont see it being a 68, and apparently neither did anyone else bidding on it in the auction since it went for 66+ money. I seriously doubt any proof barber collector would ever pay 68 money for that coin, so leaving it in that holder isnt the prize that so many people seem to think it is by all the posts saying he made a mistake.
I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade.
It's your coin, do as you please.
Me I would have left it alone
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Have you looked at what PCGS Proof 66’s tend to bring? It’s a lot less than what the coin brought in the NGC Proof 68 holder. So there likely is a significant loss involved.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
**
Your hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need it.
Good decision.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Don't think OP is coming back.
He's a good sport, posting a rough result like that.
Generously low hanging fruit for the keyboard crowd...
Good on ya mate!
I have. I sold a couple extras last year. Whatever wholesale sheet most of the dealers reference was getting me offers in the 2000-2500 range, which i assume is what you're looking at. It took some legwork, but i was able to find buyers for the 2 i had at 4k each. I dont consider that a significant loss from the auction result, if we assume thats what he paid.
Bummer
To quote a gay friend, "you don't get 'lube' with that." Buy a coin you like in a holder you like, and leave it alone.
Good decision.> @humanssuck said:
I think you did well at $4000 each. Regardless, if he lost anywhere close to the difference between roughly $5500 and $4000, that’s substantially more than “I doubt he's lost much if anything other than a clearly wrong grade”.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I believe that with that level of contrast on the coin he could do better than I did with the right buyer, hence my original comment.
It shouldn't be to hard to find out what I paid for it.
Hint:
Bought at Heritage on Nov 17, 2023 for: $5,520.00
I bought the coin, not the holder. You don't loose until you sell. It's a nice coin; but I never expected a PCGS 68. I was hoping for a 67. I don't like NGC holders (just a persona preference). Thank you everyone for your comments.
No - I play to win not lose. If submitting something like a 68 I would specify minimum grade on the form (68 or higher). No holder or sticker game for me lol - would spend that (loss) on nice slabbed bullion coins. Would price the 68 around NGC price then might discount during haggling if some room. Additionally that piece only 68 of that issue in bourse room, a corner stone coin. Looks like nice coin, 70 is perfect lol.
If you like coins in PCGS holders I would suggest not buying coins in NGC holders. Very few of us, myself included, are successful in the crossover game.
Strongly disagree with “you don’t looose until you sell” comment. If I bought a stock at $50/share and it’s worth $25/share today I guess I haven’t lost any money today because I haven’t sold the stock although the value of the stock is worth 50% less. You may have to wait 25 years if you’re lucky until being able to break even on your coin.
I also disagree with the idea that “you don’t lose until you sell”. You have lost, even if you don’t sell. You might gain it or more back (or even have a gain) before you sell, but in the meantime, you’ve lost. It’s just not a “realized” loss until there’s a sale.
Try using stock or other collateral to get a loan against it and see if the lender cares about your cost, rather than present market value.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
The True Views give it a cameo look. Any more images?
I appreciate your effort and having the cojones to crack out a 68. This is one I would have sent in for crossover vs crack out. Nice coin for sure.
Collector, occasional seller
We take our chances. Risk takers are my kind. Ooops. Crack it out and send it back.
All you can do now is learn from that and move on. Best of luck. Don’t crack a 68!
It would have been a cornerstone coin in any dealers case. All you had to do was keep as is, take the pitch, and run for the end zone!
I would sell as it is currently, looks like an upgradeable coin again.
No. The coin was in a respected TPG's holder. I would have left it as is.
I never will get why those numbers between 60 and 70 are so damned important to so many folks to "define" their coins.
^^this^^. The proof Barber Half that is the subject of this thread is a "superb gem." It's a gorgeous piece.
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