One guy I know does these / slabbed PCGS - ones he can’t really afford in MS he gets in AU or other circ grades VG and up. Perhaps upgrade later. MS 70 is perfect so not to worry.
Another idea is to do year sets based on your family's ancestry. Go after dates that family members were born and as an added challenge, do it with the country they were born in.
About Ten years to complete a raw complete date/ mint marked set of all U.S. Philippine Coins.
grades: a few VFs, mostly EF to AU. in Dansco pages unmarked.
selected for nice eye appeal. no harshly cleaned or overly scratchy.
doing this you learn a lot of what dates are scarce and what dates are tough in a nice looking coin.
always upgrading. you never quit looking to better the set.
It might be more productive to identify the series you like in the grade you like and then ask the forum how challenging it would be to complete according to your requirements. Otherwise the combinations are overwhelming.
Why don't you try and put together an Everyman 19th and 20th century mint Type sets with the highest grade of MS64. A lot tougher than you think and "could be" within your budget.
I've finished the 20th century set and a few coins away from the 19th century set, and you won't get bored with the same design. Very fun sets. just check them out
A very tough series to collect considering the lack of resources and dealers specializing in Jefferson nickels. And finding unsearched original rolls and mint sets. And then one has to accept coins with inferior strikes to complete a set in a short period of time, 2 to 5 years maybe? Even I, after 34+ years, am still searching for a few dates with complete strikes. The 1960 Denver dates are virtually impossible to find with full steps, how does one's mind adjust to not actually being able to complete a set?
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
Thanks to all that commented... so many great ideas. Still kicking it around in my head, but you truly came through with a wide variety of areas to pursue. I just want you all to know that I appreciate the thoughts.
Thanks x 1,000,000!
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
@NeophyteNumismatist said:
Thanks to all that commented... so many great ideas. Still kicking it around in my head, but you truly came through with a wide variety of areas to pursue. I just want you all to know that I appreciate the thoughts.
@NeophyteNumismatist said:
Great questions - "affordable" to me would be common dates at ~$500 and keys <$5K. I would like to keep the grades at least VF.
you could do a set of draped bust heraldic eagle dollars in VF for your definition of affordable
Usually, I see VF Bust Dollars in the $3K+ range. You are saying you see commons in the $500 range in VF?
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
1897-S quarter is one not on eBay now but it's on Collector's Corner as an MS-66 though it's above $5K.
It's significantly priced below price guide. How do you like the coin?
I'm far from the best one to ask. I look at a wide variety of coins intermittently, but not my series. I just check to see what's out there, mostly as a comparison to the availability of my interests.
@Manifest_Destiny yes, the restrikes make finding a nice, high grade example easier while retaining the challenge of finding attractive examples of earlier, original strike dates from 1899 to 1906. It’s a fun series to collect with the added bonus of being gold.
Always looking for attractive rim toned Morgan and Peace dollars in PCGS or (older) ANA/ANACS holders!
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
@coinbuf said:
For me I had a blast building an AU/low MS set of $2 1/2 gold Indians. This was far more affordable in the past but still close to your range requirements. Only the 11-D is over $1k and when finished you will have a nice set of gold coins. Some might say that there is no challenge as it is a very common coin, even the 11-D. True, but finding really eye appealing not overly processed/dipped coins can be quite challenging.
Yes, assembling a set of overdipped bright coins is easy - finding lustrous coins with original mint bloom, not so much.
@coinbuf said:
For me I had a blast building an AU/low MS set of $2 1/2 gold Indians. This was far more affordable in the past but still close to your range requirements. Only the 11-D is over $1k and when finished you will have a nice set of gold coins. Some might say that there is no challenge as it is a very common coin, even the 11-D. True, but finding really eye appealing not overly processed/dipped coins can be quite challenging.
Yes, assembling a set of overdipped bright coins is easy - finding lustrous coins with original mint bloom, not so much.
I didn't realize that gold coins would "tarnish." Can you tell us more about over dipped gold coins?
@coinbuf said:
For me I had a blast building an AU/low MS set of $2 1/2 gold Indians. This was far more affordable in the past but still close to your range requirements. Only the 11-D is over $1k and when finished you will have a nice set of gold coins. Some might say that there is no challenge as it is a very common coin, even the 11-D. True, but finding really eye appealing not overly processed/dipped coins can be quite challenging.
Yes, assembling a set of overdipped bright coins is easy - finding lustrous coins with original mint bloom, not so much.
I didn't realize that gold coins would "tarnish." Can you tell us more about over dipped gold coins?
Pre-1933 US gold is alloyed with 10% copper, so most original, unmolested mint state coins show some toning. If you look at a common date gold coin in Coinfacts (say a 1904 $20 Lib or 1924 Saint) and compare images of the MS 67 or 68 coins to those of the MS 61 or 62 coins you will see the difference.
@anablep said: @Manifest_Destiny yes, the restrikes make finding a nice, high grade example easier while retaining the challenge of finding attractive examples of earlier, original strike dates from 1899 to 1906. It’s a fun series to collect with the added bonus of being gold.
Capped Bust Half Dimes. A date set of 9 coins or a major variety set of 14 coins in AU would work and there are no show stoppers. Locating honest and eye appealing examples can present quite the challenge.
For a significant, and long term, challenge a 92 coin die marriage set would fit the bill. If looking for an incredibly challenging, nearly impossible to complete, set the 124 coin die marriage/remarriage set would be the ultimate. These last two sets would likely have coins that exceed your max price range and would fall below AU so you'd need to be comfortable with an unmatched overall look or be content in working on them with no expectation of completion.
@ambro51 said:
Lincoln Cent “S” Mint coins in matching XF condition and matched color.
I love Lincolns, that is what I started with 60 years ago, building a full set other than the 55 DDO from looking through change.
I found it a nice set to put together the entire wheat collection, 58-D back to 33 in 66RD or better (except for the 55 DDO in 63BN) and the earlier P mint are mostly 65 red or really nice toned brown. The difficult D and S are all 63 or 64 toned brown. Three holdouts that remain below MS: 1922 no D AU50, 1917 DDO XF45, and 1936 DDO AU, those will be upgraded if/when I find them, but I've moved on for now.
I'm really busy with Roman for a deep pockets client. Wants high quality silver and gold 12 Caesars and the assassins of Julius in silver AU-MS plus a few other specific individuals. He's sending me 18 coins to look at and decide what to grade with NGC Ancient and I picked up 18 coins a couple days ago and have 4 or 5 this week still, all Heritage. I'm learning a lot of Roman history along the way.
@coinbuf said:
For me I had a blast building an AU/low MS set of $2 1/2 gold Indians. This was far more affordable in the past but still close to your range requirements. Only the 11-D is over $1k and when finished you will have a nice set of gold coins. Some might say that there is no challenge as it is a very common coin, even the 11-D. True, but finding really eye appealing not overly processed/dipped coins can be quite challenging.
Yes, assembling a set of overdipped bright coins is easy - finding lustrous coins with original mint bloom, not so much.
I didn't realize that gold coins would "tarnish." Can you tell us more about over dipped gold coins?
Pre-1933 US gold is alloyed with 10% copper, so most original, unmolested mint state coins show some toning. If you look at a common date gold coin in Coinfacts (say a 1904 $20 Lib or 1924 Saint) and compare images of the MS 67 or 68 coins to those of the MS 61 or 62 coins you will see the difference.
THANK YOU! If I am understanding correctly, a 90% yellow gold coin most likely has been dipped; whereas, a orange-like appearance is a sign of natural toning?
There have been lots of great suggestions. Now I might think it could be narrowed down to whichever one you find most beautiful.
For me, it’s Buffalo nickels and Walking Liberty half’s. I’ve done other series too, but it’s these that really ring my bell.
Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014
I was asked to keep people posted, and now I have planned my next several moves. I have decided that I will not chase one series, but will move on a few at at time. This will allow me to find coins with a diversified search, but not have me buying at random. Here is where I landed:
Barber Half Dollars (XF40-AU55) [full set] - I want to collect these with a nice grey patina with some underlying luster where possible. I have been looking, and these are harder to find than I realized. So many (straight-graded) coins have been dipped, cleaned or just messed with. Honestly, I am not sure if some of these coins exist the way I want them, but finding out will be the fun.
Liberty Seated Half Dollars (XF-AU) [Date Set] - Same as above, I want coins that are original and have nice eye appeal for a circulated grade. Honestly, I am not sure what I want to do here, yet. Maybe just get as many examples as I can.
Walking Liberty Half Dollar Proofs (MS66-67) - I want blast white, no haze, no hairlines and some cameo contrast. I just like the 1936-42 proofs. This will be my "shooting fish in a barrel" set when the others get really tough (and still to find a no-haze, no-hairline coin is NOT easy).
I picked the half dollar because I really like the size. The designs are easy to see, and silver has not been an area of focus in my collection. I have really grown to appreciate original coins with luster. Since I am buying coins with a little wear, I REALLY want to be picky and try to get coins that are original, attractive, and will look good together (even if a few coins have to dip down in grade).
Here is my first Barber purchase. A very common 1912-D in PCGS50 (but I like the look, and this is what I will model my set after:
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
sorry for the consecutive post, but I am scared to edit (things go "poof"). This is not my first Barber Half, just my first for this set.
Also, I like a lot of the suggestions coming from the forum. I will refer to this thread often when I am thinking of my next journey. However, these feel like they will keep me busy for a while.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
I may have missed it but did anyone mention Flying Eagles? Happens to be my personal fave, but I’ll suggest to anybody starting this not to get into varieties. There’s many of those in 1857 alone. Plenty of room, though, for MS & PR. There’s surprisingly good finds in circulated grades for both. As FE’s are only a 3 year series, one can complete a set & not bust their budget. Plus, imo, it has one of the most beautiful designs in all of US coinage.
@rnkmyer1 said:
As FE’s are only a 3 year series, one can complete a set & not bust their budget.
It is actually a two year series---1857 and 1858. The 1856 is a pattern and the mint was actually still minting large cents in 1957. If you include the 1856 like some do, it will actually "bust your budget" as you put it.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
@rnkmyer1 said:
As FE’s are only a 3 year series, one can complete a set & not bust their budget.
It is actually a two year series---1857 and 1858. The 1856 is a pattern and the mint was actually still minting large cents in 1957. If you include the 1856 like some do, it will actually "bust your budget" as you put it.
I do include 1856. I guess my budget is a bit bigger!
So... less than $500 for common dates and $5k for key date coins... If it's a strict Date/Mint Mark set of Buffalo Nickels in AU... avoiding the double dates/over dates /3-leggers... just the 21S, 24S, 26S will be that pricey but still in budget. Finding an AU 13S Type2 for less than $500 could be a struggle... but its certainly less than $5k...
Are you doing all certified coins or is this a raw album?
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
@lkenefic said:
Are you doing all certified coins or is this a raw album?
I have decided that my collecting from here on out will be certified. Should something happen to me, I want my family to have the luxury of scanning the holder, looking at the Greysheet and retail and having an idea of what it's worth.
This is the very reason I stopped collecting CWTs. I really like them, but I have a hard time pricing them. If I have a hard time, it will be impossible for my wife and kids after I am gone.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
Hi @NeophyteNumismatist. Congrats on making some choices to collect. I saw you had Seated Half Dollars in your options list. I am one of the people who suggested these as they are my favorite coin to collect.
I would like to offer a few pointers if you don't mind. (I have collected Seated Halves for over 30 years and have learned a few things.)
First. If you are like me and most other collectors, you will probably say you want to collect strictly original coins. You will find numerous attractive, straight graded coins. In 35 years I have seen exactly 2 coins I consider (possibly) strictly original and neither one is particularly attractive. the truth is 99.99% of Seated coins have probably been dipped at least once and in grades under AU no one can vouch for the strictly original tag unless they have been with that coin since it was struck.
Second. Take full advantage of the Bugert books available on line at the Liberty Seated Collector Club site. They are under the online reference slot on the front page of the club site and you can down load them for free. At least for me, these books allow you to take your numismatic pursuit to the next level.
Third. It is sad but true that i am not computer cognizant enough to post pictur4es but i hope you will share your finds. Good luck. James
@braddick said:
Problem free evenly matched set of VF/XF Liberty Nickels.
Why VF/XF? Given the price parameters you could do that set in MS63-65.
The 1885 is $1,200 in VF/XF and 8K in MS65.
I think years from now an nicely matched set in VF/XF will be worth more proportionally than a GEM set of the same type.
The VF/XF set will always be more liquid than the MS set.
Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.-Albert Einstein
I see you have chosen Barber half dollars in EF/AU as one of your goals. That is one heck of a tough set if you want original coins with meat and eye appeal. I've built this set previously, though not in quite as high a grade, and it took me a decade or more. Below please find a link to an article I wrote for the BCCS journal on collecting these pieces. Good luck!
@braddick said:
Problem free evenly matched set of VF/XF Liberty Nickels.
Depending on how much you want to spend, the MS64 set is easy except for about 4 or so coins…and with difficulty usually comes increased prices….but this is a great set to challenge yourself with…
Some great advice already shared. Regarding seated halves, I suggest that you narrow your target within the series as a start. Pick a date range and/or a mint or the varied types to begin your journey. If you're after the entire series, then taking it in chunks will provide some satisfactory accomplishment along the way.
Additionally, the prices have been rocketing upward in recent years. Unless you have a big budget, I'd suggest doing VF-XF as your target grade so that each piece isn't prohibitively expensive. You'll also need to be patient to find the right look because many seated halves have been cleaned. However, don't let that be an absolute. I own a couple of lightly cleaned pieces in my collection that I find to be wonderful despite not passing go at CAC.
Barber Dimes in choice Xf with hints of luster. A matching set could take a good 5 years or more to finish, depending on how much time you dedicate to it.
Comments
Peace Dollars
One guy I know does these / slabbed PCGS - ones he can’t really afford in MS he gets in AU or other circ grades VG and up. Perhaps upgrade later. MS 70 is perfect so not to worry.
Full Step Jeff's
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Date set of gold dollars in AUish? Little bit harder to track them down and might align with your budget.
Another idea is to do year sets based on your family's ancestry. Go after dates that family members were born and as an added challenge, do it with the country they were born in.
Custom album maker and numismatic photographer, see my portfolio here: (http://www.donahuenumismatics.com/).
About Ten years to complete a raw complete date/ mint marked set of all U.S. Philippine Coins.
grades: a few VFs, mostly EF to AU. in Dansco pages unmarked.
selected for nice eye appeal. no harshly cleaned or overly scratchy.
doing this you learn a lot of what dates are scarce and what dates are tough in a nice looking coin.
always upgrading. you never quit looking to better the set.
US coin series: Peace dollars in MS
World coin series: French 20 franc roosters in MS
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne
1907-1914 dates were heavily restruck for years.
It might be more productive to identify the series you like in the grade you like and then ask the forum how challenging it would be to complete according to your requirements. Otherwise the combinations are overwhelming.
Why don't you try and put together an Everyman 19th and 20th century mint Type sets with the highest grade of MS64. A lot tougher than you think and "could be" within your budget.
I've finished the 20th century set and a few coins away from the 19th century set, and you won't get bored with the same design. Very fun sets. just check them out
Edited to add links:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/everyman-collections/everyman-mint-state-complete-type-sets/everyman-mint-state-19th-century-type-set-no-gold-1800-1899/8286
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/everyman-collections/everyman-mint-state-complete-type-sets/everyman-mint-state-20th-century-type-set-major-types-no-gold-1900-1999/8149
And with gold sets:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/everyman-collections/everyman-mint-state-complete-type-sets/everyman-mint-state-19th-century-type-set-gold-1800-1899/8288
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/everyman-collections/everyman-mint-state-complete-type-sets/everyman-mint-state-20th-century-type-set-major-types-gold-1900-1999/8249
Cheers
Mike
My Indians
Danco Set
In 34+> @yspsales said:
A very tough series to collect considering the lack of resources and dealers specializing in Jefferson nickels. And finding unsearched original rolls and mint sets. And then one has to accept coins with inferior strikes to complete a set in a short period of time, 2 to 5 years maybe? Even I, after 34+ years, am still searching for a few dates with complete strikes. The 1960 Denver dates are virtually impossible to find with full steps, how does one's mind adjust to not actually being able to complete a set?
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
1897-S quarter is one not on eBay now but it's on Collector's Corner as an MS-66 though it's above $5K.
It's significantly priced below price guide. How do you like the coin?
Thanks to all that commented... so many great ideas. Still kicking it around in my head, but you truly came through with a wide variety of areas to pursue. I just want you all to know that I appreciate the thoughts.
Thanks x 1,000,000!
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
Let us know what you end up doing.
Usually, I see VF Bust Dollars in the $3K+ range. You are saying you see commons in the $500 range in VF?
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
I'm far from the best one to ask. I look at a wide variety of coins intermittently, but not my series. I just check to see what's out there, mostly as a comparison to the availability of my interests.
@Manifest_Destiny yes, the restrikes make finding a nice, high grade example easier while retaining the challenge of finding attractive examples of earlier, original strike dates from 1899 to 1906. It’s a fun series to collect with the added bonus of being gold.
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne
If anything some series are better off not being completed as a set but a box of 20. Commemoratives of either era come to mind.
Yes, assembling a set of overdipped bright coins is easy - finding lustrous coins with original mint bloom, not so much.
I didn't realize that gold coins would "tarnish." Can you tell us more about over dipped gold coins?
Pre-1933 US gold is alloyed with 10% copper, so most original, unmolested mint state coins show some toning. If you look at a common date gold coin in Coinfacts (say a 1904 $20 Lib or 1924 Saint) and compare images of the MS 67 or 68 coins to those of the MS 61 or 62 coins you will see the difference.
And, the Paris expo medal.
Franklin Halves.
Peace Dollars
Franklins
Short Set Walkers (1941-1947)
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
Capped Bust Half Dimes. A date set of 9 coins or a major variety set of 14 coins in AU would work and there are no show stoppers. Locating honest and eye appealing examples can present quite the challenge.
For a significant, and long term, challenge a 92 coin die marriage set would fit the bill. If looking for an incredibly challenging, nearly impossible to complete, set the 124 coin die marriage/remarriage set would be the ultimate. These last two sets would likely have coins that exceed your max price range and would fall below AU so you'd need to be comfortable with an unmatched overall look or be content in working on them with no expectation of completion.
Be warned though, they can be addicting.
I love Lincolns, that is what I started with 60 years ago, building a full set other than the 55 DDO from looking through change.
I found it a nice set to put together the entire wheat collection, 58-D back to 33 in 66RD or better (except for the 55 DDO in 63BN) and the earlier P mint are mostly 65 red or really nice toned brown. The difficult D and S are all 63 or 64 toned brown. Three holdouts that remain below MS: 1922 no D AU50, 1917 DDO XF45, and 1936 DDO AU, those will be upgraded if/when I find them, but I've moved on for now.
I'm really busy with Roman for a deep pockets client. Wants high quality silver and gold 12 Caesars and the assassins of Julius in silver AU-MS plus a few other specific individuals. He's sending me 18 coins to look at and decide what to grade with NGC Ancient and I picked up 18 coins a couple days ago and have 4 or 5 this week still, all Heritage. I'm learning a lot of Roman history along the way.
THANK YOU! If I am understanding correctly, a 90% yellow gold coin most likely has been dipped; whereas, a orange-like appearance is a sign of natural toning?
Classic commems
There have been lots of great suggestions. Now I might think it could be narrowed down to whichever one you find most beautiful.
For me, it’s Buffalo nickels and Walking Liberty half’s. I’ve done other series too, but it’s these that really ring my bell.
Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014
You might consider leveraging your early copper knowledge to picking select Conder tokens where themes are options. Hard times tokens are cool too!
I was asked to keep people posted, and now I have planned my next several moves. I have decided that I will not chase one series, but will move on a few at at time. This will allow me to find coins with a diversified search, but not have me buying at random. Here is where I landed:
I picked the half dollar because I really like the size. The designs are easy to see, and silver has not been an area of focus in my collection. I have really grown to appreciate original coins with luster. Since I am buying coins with a little wear, I REALLY want to be picky and try to get coins that are original, attractive, and will look good together (even if a few coins have to dip down in grade).
Here is my first Barber purchase. A very common 1912-D in PCGS50 (but I like the look, and this is what I will model my set after:
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
sorry for the consecutive post, but I am scared to edit (things go "poof"). This is not my first Barber Half, just my first for this set.
Also, I like a lot of the suggestions coming from the forum. I will refer to this thread often when I am thinking of my next journey. However, these feel like they will keep me busy for a while.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
I may have missed it but did anyone mention Flying Eagles? Happens to be my personal fave, but I’ll suggest to anybody starting this not to get into varieties. There’s many of those in 1857 alone. Plenty of room, though, for MS & PR. There’s surprisingly good finds in circulated grades for both. As FE’s are only a 3 year series, one can complete a set & not bust their budget. Plus, imo, it has one of the most beautiful designs in all of US coinage.
“The thrill of the hunt never gets old”
PCGS Registry: Screaming Eagles
Copperindian
Retired sets: Soaring Eagles
Copperindian
It is actually a two year series---1857 and 1858. The 1856 is a pattern and the mint was actually still minting large cents in 1957. If you include the 1856 like some do, it will actually "bust your budget" as you put it.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Irish Gunmoney. Cool history, 1689-1690 by month and year, not too expensive and a good hunt finding non-corroded specimens.
I do include 1856. I guess my budget is a bit bigger!
“The thrill of the hunt never gets old”
PCGS Registry: Screaming Eagles
Copperindian
Retired sets: Soaring Eagles
Copperindian
So... less than $500 for common dates and $5k for key date coins... If it's a strict Date/Mint Mark set of Buffalo Nickels in AU... avoiding the double dates/over dates /3-leggers... just the 21S, 24S, 26S will be that pricey but still in budget. Finding an AU 13S Type2 for less than $500 could be a struggle... but its certainly less than $5k...
Are you doing all certified coins or is this a raw album?
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
I have decided that my collecting from here on out will be certified. Should something happen to me, I want my family to have the luxury of scanning the holder, looking at the Greysheet and retail and having an idea of what it's worth.
This is the very reason I stopped collecting CWTs. I really like them, but I have a hard time pricing them. If I have a hard time, it will be impossible for my wife and kids after I am gone.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
Peace Dollars.
Hi @NeophyteNumismatist. Congrats on making some choices to collect. I saw you had Seated Half Dollars in your options list. I am one of the people who suggested these as they are my favorite coin to collect.
I would like to offer a few pointers if you don't mind. (I have collected Seated Halves for over 30 years and have learned a few things.)
First. If you are like me and most other collectors, you will probably say you want to collect strictly original coins. You will find numerous attractive, straight graded coins. In 35 years I have seen exactly 2 coins I consider (possibly) strictly original and neither one is particularly attractive. the truth is 99.99% of Seated coins have probably been dipped at least once and in grades under AU no one can vouch for the strictly original tag unless they have been with that coin since it was struck.
Second. Take full advantage of the Bugert books available on line at the Liberty Seated Collector Club site. They are under the online reference slot on the front page of the club site and you can down load them for free. At least for me, these books allow you to take your numismatic pursuit to the next level.
Third. It is sad but true that i am not computer cognizant enough to post pictur4es but i hope you will share your finds. Good luck. James
The VF/XF set will always be more liquid than the MS set.
Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds.-Albert Einstein
I see you have chosen Barber half dollars in EF/AU as one of your goals. That is one heck of a tough set if you want original coins with meat and eye appeal. I've built this set previously, though not in quite as high a grade, and it took me a decade or more. Below please find a link to an article I wrote for the BCCS journal on collecting these pieces. Good luck!
http://www.tbnumismatics.com/circulated-barber-half-dollars-a-look-back-at-two-decades-of-specialization.html
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
Depending on how much you want to spend, the MS64 set is easy except for about 4 or so coins…and with difficulty usually comes increased prices….but this is a great set to challenge yourself with…
Some great advice already shared. Regarding seated halves, I suggest that you narrow your target within the series as a start. Pick a date range and/or a mint or the varied types to begin your journey. If you're after the entire series, then taking it in chunks will provide some satisfactory accomplishment along the way.
Additionally, the prices have been rocketing upward in recent years. Unless you have a big budget, I'd suggest doing VF-XF as your target grade so that each piece isn't prohibitively expensive. You'll also need to be patient to find the right look because many seated halves have been cleaned. However, don't let that be an absolute. I own a couple of lightly cleaned pieces in my collection that I find to be wonderful despite not passing go at CAC.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.
My 2nd Barber Half for this set:
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
@DisneyFan
Looks like this dealer has a few barbers.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=amwldcoin&store_cat=0&store_name=ameriworldcoins&_oac=1&_nkw=barber
Gem or near-gem brown Lincolns. Challenging for sure as a matched set. “Affordable” depends of course, but no killers.
I haven’t read comments but I’d suggest VF/EF Barber quarters and half’s as a tough but relatively affordable series. Also Philly Seated Quarters.
Latin American Collection
I have come to the conclusion that every series is a challenge and none are affordable!
My Original Song Written to my late wife-"Plus other original music by me"
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8A11CC8CC6093D80
https://n1m.com/bobbysmith1
Barber Dimes in choice Xf with hints of luster. A matching set could take a good 5 years or more to finish, depending on how much time you dedicate to it.
