@124Spider said:
A better question, I suspect, would be, "Are there still many collectors who collect expensive non-slabbed coins."
Many of us are, fundamentally, album-collectors. Speaking for myself, I would love to own no slabbed coins, and have my albums contain all my pretty coins that now are slabbed. The album would look better (no placeholder-coins).
But I buy all my expensive coins over the internet, based only on photographs and how much I trust the vendor. So I am unwilling to spend big bucks (defined as more than about $200) on a raw coin. I am also of the opinion that there is absolutely no reason for a professional vendor to be selling $1000 raw coins, when the same coin, slabbed by a reputable TPG, would be much easier to sell (translating almost certainly into a quicker sale for more money). So I make the negative inference that there must be some reason they chose not to get the coin certified/graded, and I don't like any of those reasons.
Also, of course, I am mindful that, when it comes time to sell my coins, they'll be easier to sell (quicker and higher sale price) if slabbed. So I have lots of slabbed coins. But I have far more raw coins, since most coins since about 1930 are not expensive.
I don't fully agree. However, at the very least you need to exempt coins whose price tag is predominantly bullion. For example, a circ $20 is around $2000 but for common dates there is zero benefit to getting them slabbed.
And there are legitimate reasons not to slab a moderately expensive coin:
1. The price increase will not match the expense.
2. You don't want to wait 3 or 4 months to recoup your costs.
I hear you, but (from the point of view of a collector who buys all his coins based on photos and trust), I'll say:
I would not buy an unslabbed double eagle (I'm assuming that that's what you're referring to by "circ $20") from a dealer with which I was unfamiliar as readily as I would buy one that is certified by a reputable TPG. $2000 is too much money for me to trust blindly, when I have no way of determining that it's genuine, even after I get the coin. And I doubt I'm the only one who feels that way. Maybe enough others don't care that the price is not affected; maybe not.
I submit that it's axiomatic that one would expect to get a substantial amount more for a $1000 coin that has been certified by a reputable TPG than the same coin that has not, if one's sales are very often through photos. I certainly would not even think about spending anything like $1000 on a coin that I was guessing as to its actual grade and authenticity based only on photos.
I grant the third point, but wonder about how long a $1000 raw coin would sit compared to the same coin certified by a reputable TPG, on average.
I am not an EAC person, but I hear that most EAC collectors don't like slabs (I don't know if this is true or not, just something I heard over the years). EAC= Early American Coppers.
I haven’t collected raw coins, in 20 years. Only thing raw I would consider buying would be an ASE, or some other mint product, in original government packaging. Certification makes so much more sense from a financial standpoint and also as protection and authentication.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
Numismatist. 50 year member ANA. Winner of four ANA Heath Literary Awards; three Wayte and Olga Raymond Literary Awards; Numismatist of the Year Award 2009, and Lifetime Achievement Award 2020. Winner numerous NLG Literary Awards.
I have Dansco albums from Lincoln cents to Kennedy halves. Everything from the late 50's came from broken out mint & proof sets. Rolls and rolls of Lincolns, Jeffersons and silver Roosevelts. Still buy raw but not on-line and not very often. About 1,800 slabs, the vast majority Roosevelt dimes. That being said, I'll never limit myself to one or the other. Reason for all the slabs ? Not the smartest way to collect but I initially wanted a ms65 set. Then noticed alot of ms66's were available for a slight increase in cost. Well, guess what ? ms67 now completed with alot of 67+ and a few 68's. Crap !!! This IS NOT the smart way to do it. Especially since I never sold the 65 & 66's.
I have both slabbed and raw Morgan & Peace coins, but Dansco needs to make an album for 2021-? Morgan and Peace Dollars. I'd like to display my coins in an album to get toned and appreciated, Anyone else agree?
I am currently putting a set of Peace dollars together and am having so much more fun collecting what I like than worrying about what a grading company is going to say about it. With that being said, I am almost finished putting a set of commemoratives together and they are all slabbed so that when I pass away, my wife (who knows very little about coins) will have a starting point when she sells them.
@124Spider said:
A better question, I suspect, would be, "Are there still many collectors who collect expensive non-slabbed coins."
Many of us are, fundamentally, album-collectors. Speaking for myself, I would love to own no slabbed coins, and have my albums contain all my pretty coins that now are slabbed. The album would look better (no placeholder-coins).
But I buy all my expensive coins over the internet, based only on photographs and how much I trust the vendor. So I am unwilling to spend big bucks (defined as more than about $200) on a raw coin. I am also of the opinion that there is absolutely no reason for a professional vendor to be selling $1000 raw coins, when the same coin, slabbed by a reputable TPG, would be much easier to sell (translating almost certainly into a quicker sale for more money). So I make the negative inference that there must be some reason they chose not to get the coin certified/graded, and I don't like any of those reasons.
Also, of course, I am mindful that, when it comes time to sell my coins, they'll be easier to sell (quicker and higher sale price) if slabbed. So I have lots of slabbed coins. But I have far more raw coins, since most coins since about 1930 are not expensive.
I don't fully agree. However, at the very least you need to exempt coins whose price tag is predominantly bullion. For example, a circ $20 is around $2000 but for common dates there is zero benefit to getting them slabbed.
And there are legitimate reasons not to slab a moderately expensive coin:
1. The price increase will not match the expense.
2. You don't want to wait 3 or 4 months to recoup your costs.
I hear you, but (from the point of view of a collector who buys all his coins based on photos and trust), I'll say:
I would not buy an unslabbed double eagle (I'm assuming that that's what you're referring to by "circ $20") from a dealer with which I was unfamiliar as readily as I would buy one that is certified by a reputable TPG. $2000 is too much money for me to trust blindly, when I have no way of determining that it's genuine, even after I get the coin. And I doubt I'm the only one who feels that way. Maybe enough others don't care that the price is not affected; maybe not.
I submit that it's axiomatic that one would expect to get a substantial amount more for a $1000 coin that has been certified by a reputable TPG than the same coin that has not, if one's sales are very often through photos. I certainly would not even think about spending anything like $1000 on a coin that I was guessing as to its actual grade and authenticity based only on photos.
I grant the third point, but wonder about how long a $1000 raw coin would sit compared to the same coin certified by a reputable TPG, on average.
You will get almost no price bump for a circ $20 (common date) from it being slabbed, certainly less than the cost of certification.
As for #3, it depends on what it is and what your customer base is. There are, for example, many $500 to $1000 Morgan dollars that could be sold raw fairly quickly in a BM. Key date coins would sell quickly if you have buyers looking.
I'm not telling you to ever buy a raw coin. I'm just saying that there are legitimate reasons why some coins, even some moderately expensive coins are still raw. The biggest one being bullion. Other than Cougar (see the other thread), most dealers don't make more than $75 or $100 on a $20, sometimes as low as $50. There is literally no profit in submitting them.
I prefer all raw on modern (last 50 or so years) and I may buy slabbed if I don’t know the seller too well. My problem with the graded coins is people seem to believe a 70 is worth a fortune and a 69 is worth melt.
I'm an album collector at heart. My complete seated quarter set was in a Dansco. I started slabbing them earlier this year to make it easier for my kids to sell. If I start another collection, it will be something much lower valued but will be in a Dansco.
There's a huge raw world out there to explore and cherrypick. For instance...
1845-O WB13 (R6)
1855/54
It's gone! The seller took down the photo. Maybe he sold it out from under me. We'll see. If it still remains available, it looks to be a nice VG10 but a late die state.
I used to crack out coins for my 7070 album but once that was completed, I stopped the practice. Most of the coins I'm after these days have been the subject of counterfeiters and having the authentication is a definite plus. My other area of collecting, Early Copper, is mostly traded raw but if I find a nice slabbed piece I'm not going to crack it...
It just gives you a flavor of my interests with some raw coins. Although to be fair, I have broken some key dates out over the years to complete some albums/sets.
Fortunately or unfortunately, all my albums have revolved around budget at the time of putting them together. Yes, eye appeal, a consistent look and problem free/straight graded coins have always motivated me. I like circulated sets. I never really liked the idea of a G-4 1921-D Walker on the same page with a Mint State 1935 Walker.
I tried to build a consistent looking set around the 1885 VF Liberty (Full Liberty) Nickel. I intentionally bought "down graded" coins to match the 85.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
@Oakstar - I like circulated sets. I never really liked the idea of a G-4 1921-D Walker on the same page with a Mint State 1935 Walker.
Haven't seen the Dansco WLH album setup. I have my WLH's in the LOC albums and page 2 of Book 1 goes from 1919 D to 29 D, so easy to have a nice circulated matched set of G4 - F12. Page 3 (29 S - 37 P) is almost all MS. Not sure if the Coin & Currency Institute had this in mind when they created the albums but I like the design since my set is a progressively improved grade.
For anything that's modern (past 50 years), I prefer original mint packaging over a slab. The coins are well enough protected and consistently high enough quality that I don't think the holder adds a ton of value. And I think the packaging in good condition will become more rare than the coins themselves fairly quickly.
Technically, I collect both. However, almost all of my raw coins are all low value. Today, everything I do is graded. I do not buy modern, Mint products (just not my area of focus).
It is much faster for me to find the quality I want in graded coins. Also, it will be much easier for my less-than-knowledgeable wife to sell my coins if they are graded, should something happen to me unexpectedly.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
I prefer my coins raw, unless I can't expect to find the particular coin otherwise. I'm happy with filling albums and still am making custom books from scratch on request.
The longer I live the more convincing proofs I see of this truth, that God governs in the affairs of men. And if a sparrow cannot fall to the ground without His notice is it possible for an empire to rise without His aid? Benjamin Franklin
@coastaljerseyguy said: @Oakstar - I like circulated sets. I never really liked the idea of a G-4 1921-D Walker on the same page with a Mint State 1935 Walker.
Haven't seen the Dansco WLH album setup. I have my WLH's in the LOC albums and page 2 of Book 1 goes from 1919 D to 29 D, so easy to have a nice circulated matched set of G4 - F12. Page 3 (29 S - 37 P) is almost all MS. Not sure if the Coin & Currency Institute had this in mind when they created the albums but I like the design since my set is a progressively improved grade.
Let's see them.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Most of my Buffalo Nickels are raw except for key dates. I did the same with Kennedy Half Dollars, Washington Quarters, Standing Liberty Quarters, Jefferson Nickels and Roosevelt Dimes. I’m still missing some key dates which I will only buy slabbed. More recently, I’ve been collecting Morgan and Peace dollars. I’ve learned the hard way to only buy these slabbed. I have a several rarer date AU sliders that are all cleaned.
I like the LOC albums for the WLH & Peace collection. Nice & compact. For the WLH 65 coins there are 2 books, 5 pages of 12 coins and the last page houses the last 5 coins with 7 holes for extras. As noted it fits nice with my progressively better grades.
For the Peace 24 coins there are 2 pages of 9 coins and the last page for the remaining 6 with the 3 extra holes. I had the LOC Morgan album also, 3 book set, but sold and kept the Dansco.
I use the sticky stuff that comes with folded mailed advertisements to attach the labels and easy to remove and not effect the cardboard. The old ANACs white slab label backs were tacky and stick on their own. As requested.
@rec78 said:
I am not an EAC person, but I hear that most EAC collectors don't like slabs (I don't know if this is true or not, just something I heard over the years). EAC= Early American Coppers.
This area has been transitioning for awhile, especially for those doing higher grade date and/or major variety sets (like me). And the EAC dealers have followed suit, offering good mixes of raw and slabbed coins now.
The hard core Sheldon variety collectors have little use for slabs, as so many of the coins would only get Details grades anyway.
But to your point, I remember being at an EAC show held in conjunction with a regional show around 1995. I was showing one of the guys my 1819 in an ANACS MS60 holder and being admonished for keeping it that way, since there was a spot of gunk on the reverse. He offered to crack it for me and properly treat it before it got worse. I politely declined, still have the coin, and it hasn’t changed at all.
@rec78 said:
I am not an EAC person, but I hear that most EAC collectors don't like slabs (I don't know if this is true or not, just something I heard over the years). EAC= Early American Coppers.
This area has been transitioning for awhile, especially for those doing higher grade date and/or major variety sets (like me). And the EAC dealers have followed suit, offering good mixes of raw and slabbed coins now.
The hard core Sheldon variety collectors have little use for slabs, as so many of the coins would only get Details grades anyway.
But to your point, I remember being at an EAC show held in conjunction with a regional show around 1995. I was showing one of the guys my 1819 in an ANACS MS60 holder and being admonished for keeping it that way, since there was a spot of gunk on the reverse. He offered to crack it for me and properly treat it before it got worse. I politely declined, still have the coin, and it hasn’t changed at all.
The great majority of my EAC collection is raw. Most were purchased that way. A few of those were cracked out by previous owners, some were cracked by me... here's a glimpse...
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
Annotations; wk (weak), nk (nck)s, scrt(s) (scratch)s, mk (mark), ov. (obverse), rv. (reverse), DE (die erosion), lam (lamination), L (luster) S (semi), PL (prooflike), mky (marky), n (nick), b (bridge), t (toned), scp (scrapes), hvy (heavy), c/steps (compensated), abr (abrasion) S-T (strike thru), ck (cheek), dpl (die polish lines), E (EDS), f (full), w (weak), qrtr (quarter), QSC (quarter step count)
58 coins w/opinions Oct 2021;
65 BS MS65 f/str steps, dpl, PL
66 BS MS64 m 4.5 dpl, De in hair
67 BS MS65 m+ QSC 3345 1 sm. nk, center str-thru, b's, almost FS, c spotting rv.
68D MS64 m/f 6535 QSC nk, blemished fields, lt. scrt ov.
69S MS63 f 6335 QSC n and ticks, lg mk on high ck bone.
70D MS64+ f/str lg S-T left of steps, PL. lg mk ov. Chick scrths rv.
70S MS63+ about 5 nks, nks ov. rv
71 MS64/5 f 6 sm hit, nks ov
71D MS63/5 w/E 6, flaw in hair
72 MS64+ E 6 lt t
72D MS65/4 E 5.25 mky rv
73 MS65 E 5.25, minor spotting
74 MS63 f 5, scrts on obv. and rev., marky.
74D MS64/5 f 5, scrt on coat, hit on chin
75 MS63/4 f 5, scrps on forehead and brow, scrth rv.
75D MS65 E -5 nk, die crack rv.
76 MS64+ f -5 str-thru and wk qrtr step under 3rd pillar, colorful
76D MS65 E -5 tick, 3 minor scrps ov, lt scrt l-field ov.
77 MS64+ E -5 wk quarter on 5th, L+, scrpe forehead, few mks.
77D MS64+ E 5.25, scrt hair, nks forehead
78 MS63/5 f 5.25, six sm scrps, deep scrt in field ov.
78-D MS64/5 f 5.25 scrps on coat
79 MS63/5 f 5 scrps on coat
79D MS64 m/f 5, de hair, spotty, L-
80P MS63/5 4.75 2 nks, wk quarter, scrps nks on ck and forehead
80D MS64 f 5 mks on high ck & rv field, scrp in hair.
81P MS63 w/f -5 b left side, long scrt in hair, de.
81D MS65 f -5 b
82P MS64 E 5.25, cuts, scrts
83P MS64/5 E 5,25, minor scrp, hits hair, not L, lt t
83D MS64/5 f 5
84P MS65 f 5.25
84D MS65 f 5.25 tick
85P MS64+ f 5.50. Mks, spot rv.
87P MS66 E 6
88P MS65 E 6, minor lt scat'd mks ov., t rv.
89P MS65+ E/str 6 PL
89D MS64+ E 5.75
90P MS65 E 6, scrt coat
91-P MS64 E -6, scrts on ck
91D MS65 E -6
92P MS65 E 6, tiny spot on ck
92D MS66 E 6
93P MS64/5 E 6
93D MS65/6 E 6
94D MS64 E 6 rough rim
95P MS65 E 6
95D MS65 E 6
96P MS65 E 6
96P MS65 E 6 lt scrts, nks on ck
96D MS66 E -6n
97-P MS64 E 6
98-D MS64 E 6 PL
99-P MS64+ E 6 spotty ov.
00D MS64 E 6 mky ov.
01D MS66 E 6
02P MS66 E 6
02D MS66 E 6 (226)
Feb 2022 21 coins
38D MS64 E 6545 QSC, t, subtle L-, 4 ov. mks. spots
39 r38 MS65/4 f 5445 QSC, lt. scrth hair, L, nice str.
39D r38 MS64+ f/E 6544 QSC rough, nks. hvy t ov., colorful rv., L-, ov. lathe lines.
39D r40 MS64 f -5.00 wk, hvy t, L-, nicely aged.
39S r38 MS64+ f 5445 QSC, mks ov. L, gold t.
40D MS65 f-/f 6, L, spots
40S MS64 f/w strike oddity.
41D MS65 f 5.25 T, L+
41D MS65 f 6. L+, SPL, lt. scrts ov. and rv.
41D MS64 f 6 L. De, possible D/D
41D MS63+ w/str 6, de, L+
41D MS65+ m+ -6 minor flaw and wkness, de, SPL
41D MS65 f- 6, sm. scrt ov. field, SPL
42D MS64 f 6, mky ck, fields. lt. scrt rv. De, SPL
42D MS65 f 6 Colorful t, rough ck, nk, scrps ov., sevl scrts rv.
42P MS65 f -5.25 nk, L+. lam, rim flaw
42S 66/5 E steps b, L+ ov., t, rv.
43P MS65+ E 5.50 lt marks on portrait, priphl t, L+.
43P 64/5 f -6 tick b, mks portrait, lt. scrt coat, P/P
43P 66/7 E/str 4.50 brs, L+. Minor mks chk, c spot nose
43D 65+ E 6 L+, mks, scrts ov. rv., lt. spot chk (247)
April 2022 66 coins w/opinions
44P 63+ f -6 nks, L, scrts ov. and rv. lt. mottle t, mky
44D 66 E -5.25 2nks spot, L+, 3 nks rv.
44D 65+ E 5.25 L+, 4-5 mks in hair, lg spot on UNITED
44D 66/65+ E 5.25 L+, lg mk rv., lam. ov?
45P 64+ f -5 wk/3rdP, L, lt T, mky
45D 64+ f -6 6th wk, L, 2n 2 scrps ov. 3-4 n rv.
47P 64/5 f -5nk lot of 6th, L, T, lg mks in hair
47P 64+/65 f -5.00 b, L, t
47D 65 f 5 L, minor mks
47D 64 m+ -6nk, L- DE
48D 64 f/m 5 L, lg mk ov
48S 64 m+ -5nk b, L/L-
48S 64 f -5 b, L, scrps/rub ov., minor mks DPL, SPL Dramatic S/S
49P 64+ m+/f -5wk nk, L-, t
49D 65 f -5 nks, L, nice t, spotty ov.
50P 64 f steps nk wk, L-, flashy, hvy t
51P 64+ m+/f steps rough, L+, very nice, lg cut on chk
52P 63+ w/str c/steps nks, L-, t, mky
52D 64+ f/m str -5nk b, L-,
52S 63 m+ -5 nk, L, 9-10 hvy mks most on rv.
54P 64 f -5 nks, L, mky, spotty
55P 64+ f -5 n b, L-, mky
55D 64+ m/w str c5544 QSC nks, L+, nice, wk details
55D 64 w/f c5534 nks b's, flat ear
58P 63w -5, nk, black
58P 63+ m+/f str 5 minor nk, SPL, nice for the date, t
58D 64+ f 5.50 L, t, hvy rv. nk, on nose, scp ov.
59P 64 f 5 L-, t
59D 64 m+/f 5 L
62P 64 f -5nk, nice
63 64+ f -5nk b, lt. t
70S 65 f 5.50 b abr, PL S-T ck
73d 65 E 5.25 L+
75P 65 f 5 tick, L
78D 64 f 5.50 mky, scrt, Raised spiral markings on coat
85P 64+ f 5.25 HVY die polish lines ov. rv.
85D 66 f 5 5th thin separation under 3rd & 4th pillar
86D 65 f -5 tick/bump Lt scrat coat
87D 65 f 5.50
88P 64 spot, mky, minor scattered chicken flecks, PL
88P 64 f/str unusual weak steps
88P very worn dies, only 6th step shows.
90D 64+ E -6 minor mks
92D 63 E 6 PL scats, mky
93P 64+ E 6 mky minor
93P 65 E 6 PL mky minor
93D 65 E 6
94P 66 E 6
94P 65 E 6 spot on ck
94D 64 m/str 6 mky, less than full strike, planchet irregularities
95P 65 E 6 PL
95P 66 E 6 very nice
95D 65+ E 6 PL
96D 65+ E 6 PL
97P 66 E/str 6
98P 64 E 6 chicken scrts minor
98D 65 E 6 minor lt. scrts
99P 65 E 6 minor marks
99D 65+ E 6
00D 65 E 6 S-T rv.
03D 65 E 6
2-06P 65 planchet irregularities in fields
06P 66
06D 65 unusual weak steps
2019D PF67? Explore & Disc.
313 new coins that are slowly being implemented into my collection with Capital and IS holders. Others will get new Mylar flips.
But I buy certified coins as well, mainly PCGS or ANACS when they meet my standards in strike, condition and steps. Never had much luck with NGC. A few in the lists would grade higher by another standard.
My latest, have two for this date.
Besides answering the OP's question, the above lists shows how busy I can get sometimes. But at $40 a pop, it would take 5 figures to get them graded and graded again.....so..... Likely the same reason why they're still in their raw state. Nonetheless, a few are of very high quality. Coins usually speak for themselves and having the ability to discern what they're saying, well.... Whenever the opportunity arises, it's always a joy going through a good box!
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
Annotations; wk (weak), nk (nck)s, scrt(s) (scratch)s, mk (mark), ov. (obverse), rv. (reverse), DE (die erosion), lam (lamination), L (luster) S (semi), PL (prooflike), mky (marky), n (nick), b (bridge), t (toned), scp (scrapes), hvy (heavy), c/steps (compensated), abr (abrasion) S-T (strike thru), ck (cheek), dpl (die polish lines), E (EDS), f (full), w (weak), qrtr (quarter), QSC (quarter step count)
58 coins w/opinions Oct 2021;
65 BS MS65 f/str steps, dpl, PL
66 BS MS64 m 4.5 dpl, De in hair
67 BS MS65 m+ QSC 3345 1 sm. nk, center str-thru, b's, almost FS, c spotting rv.
68D MS64 m/f 6535 QSC nk, blemished fields, lt. scrt ov.
69S MS63 f 6335 QSC n and ticks, lg mk on high ck bone.
70D MS64+ f/str lg S-T left of steps, PL. lg mk ov. Chick scrths rv.
70S MS63+ about 5 nks, nks ov. rv
71 MS64/5 f 6 sm hit, nks ov
71D MS63/5 w/E 6, flaw in hair
72 MS64+ E 6 lt t
72D MS65/4 E 5.25 mky rv
73 MS65 E 5.25, minor spotting
74 MS63 f 5, scrts on obv. and rev., marky.
74D MS64/5 f 5, scrt on coat, hit on chin
75 MS63/4 f 5, scrps on forehead and brow, scrth rv.
75D MS65 E -5 nk, die crack rv.
76 MS64+ f -5 str-thru and wk qrtr step under 3rd pillar, colorful
76D MS65 E -5 tick, 3 minor scrps ov, lt scrt l-field ov.
77 MS64+ E -5 wk quarter on 5th, L+, scrpe forehead, few mks.
77D MS64+ E 5.25, scrt hair, nks forehead
78 MS63/5 f 5.25, six sm scrps, deep scrt in field ov.
78-D MS64/5 f 5.25 scrps on coat
79 MS63/5 f 5 scrps on coat
79D MS64 m/f 5, de hair, spotty, L-
80P MS63/5 4.75 2 nks, wk quarter, scrps nks on ck and forehead
80D MS64 f 5 mks on high ck & rv field, scrp in hair.
81P MS63 w/f -5 b left side, long scrt in hair, de.
81D MS65 f -5 b
82P MS64 E 5.25, cuts, scrts
83P MS64/5 E 5,25, minor scrp, hits hair, not L, lt t
83D MS64/5 f 5
84P MS65 f 5.25
84D MS65 f 5.25 tick
85P MS64+ f 5.50. Mks, spot rv.
87P MS66 E 6
88P MS65 E 6, minor lt scat'd mks ov., t rv.
89P MS65+ E/str 6 PL
89D MS64+ E 5.75
90P MS65 E 6, scrt coat
91-P MS64 E -6, scrts on ck
91D MS65 E -6
92P MS65 E 6, tiny spot on ck
92D MS66 E 6
93P MS64/5 E 6
93D MS65/6 E 6
94D MS64 E 6 rough rim
95P MS65 E 6
95D MS65 E 6
96P MS65 E 6
96P MS65 E 6 lt scrts, nks on ck
96D MS66 E -6n
97-P MS64 E 6
98-D MS64 E 6 PL
99-P MS64+ E 6 spotty ov.
00D MS64 E 6 mky ov.
01D MS66 E 6
02P MS66 E 6
02D MS66 E 6 (226)
Feb 2022 21 coins
38D MS64 E 6545 QSC, t, subtle L-, 4 ov. mks. spots
39 r38 MS65/4 f 5445 QSC, lt. scrth hair, L, nice str.
39D r38 MS64+ f/E 6544 QSC rough, nks. hvy t ov., colorful rv., L-, ov. lathe lines.
39D r40 MS64 f -5.00 wk, hvy t, L-, nicely aged.
39S r38 MS64+ f 5445 QSC, mks ov. L, gold t.
40D MS65 f-/f 6, L, spots
40S MS64 f/w strike oddity.
41D MS65 f 5.25 T, L+
41D MS65 f 6. L+, SPL, lt. scrts ov. and rv.
41D MS64 f 6 L. De, possible D/D
41D MS63+ w/str 6, de, L+
41D MS65+ m+ -6 minor flaw and wkness, de, SPL
41D MS65 f- 6, sm. scrt ov. field, SPL
42D MS64 f 6, mky ck, fields. lt. scrt rv. De, SPL
42D MS65 f 6 Colorful t, rough ck, nk, scrps ov., sevl scrts rv.
42P MS65 f -5.25 nk, L+. lam, rim flaw
42S 66/5 E steps b, L+ ov., t, rv.
43P MS65+ E 5.50 lt marks on portrait, priphl t, L+.
43P 64/5 f -6 tick b, mks portrait, lt. scrt coat, P/P
43P 66/7 E/str 4.50 brs, L+. Minor mks chk, c spot nose
43D 65+ E 6 L+, mks, scrts ov. rv., lt. spot chk (247)
April 2022 66 coins w/opinions
44P 63+ f -6 nks, L, scrts ov. and rv. lt. mottle t, mky
44D 66 E -5.25 2nks spot, L+, 3 nks rv.
44D 65+ E 5.25 L+, 4-5 mks in hair, lg spot on UNITED
44D 66/65+ E 5.25 L+, lg mk rv., lam. ov?
45P 64+ f -5 wk/3rdP, L, lt T, mky
45D 64+ f -6 6th wk, L, 2n 2 scrps ov. 3-4 n rv.
47P 64/5 f -5nk lot of 6th, L, T, lg mks in hair
47P 64+/65 f -5.00 b, L, t
47D 65 f 5 L, minor mks
47D 64 m+ -6nk, L- DE
48D 64 f/m 5 L, lg mk ov
48S 64 m+ -5nk b, L/L-
48S 64 f -5 b, L, scrps/rub ov., minor mks DPL, SPL Dramatic S/S
49P 64+ m+/f -5wk nk, L-, t
49D 65 f -5 nks, L, nice t, spotty ov.
50P 64 f steps nk wk, L-, flashy, hvy t
51P 64+ m+/f steps rough, L+, very nice, lg cut on chk
52P 63+ w/str c/steps nks, L-, t, mky
52D 64+ f/m str -5nk b, L-,
52S 63 m+ -5 nk, L, 9-10 hvy mks most on rv.
54P 64 f -5 nks, L, mky, spotty
55P 64+ f -5 n b, L-, mky
55D 64+ m/w str c5544 QSC nks, L+, nice, wk details
55D 64 w/f c5534 nks b's, flat ear
58P 63w -5, nk, black
58P 63+ m+/f str 5 minor nk, SPL, nice for the date, t
58D 64+ f 5.50 L, t, hvy rv. nk, on nose, scp ov.
59P 64 f 5 L-, t
59D 64 m+/f 5 L
62P 64 f -5nk, nice
63 64+ f -5nk b, lt. t
70S 65 f 5.50 b abr, PL S-T ck
73d 65 E 5.25 L+
75P 65 f 5 tick, L
78D 64 f 5.50 mky, scrt, Raised spiral markings on coat
85P 64+ f 5.25 HVY die polish lines ov. rv.
85D 66 f 5 5th thin separation under 3rd & 4th pillar
86D 65 f -5 tick/bump Lt scrat coat
87D 65 f 5.50
88P 64 spot, mky, minor scattered chicken flecks, PL
88P 64 f/str unusual weak steps
88P very worn dies, only 6th step shows.
90D 64+ E -6 minor mks
92D 63 E 6 PL scats, mky
93P 64+ E 6 mky minor
93P 65 E 6 PL mky minor
93D 65 E 6
94P 66 E 6
94P 65 E 6 spot on ck
94D 64 m/str 6 mky, less than full strike, planchet irregularities
95P 65 E 6 PL
95P 66 E 6 very nice
95D 65+ E 6 PL
96D 65+ E 6 PL
97P 66 E/str 6
98P 64 E 6 chicken scrts minor
98D 65 E 6 minor lt. scrts
99P 65 E 6 minor marks
99D 65+ E 6
00D 65 E 6 S-T rv.
03D 65 E 6
2-06P 65 planchet irregularities in fields
06P 66
06D 65 unusual weak steps
2019D PF67? Explore & Disc.
313 new coins that are slowly being implemented into my collection with Capital and IS holders. Others will get new Mylar flips.
But I buy certified coins as well, mainly PCGS or ANACS when they meet my standards in strike, condition and steps. Never had much luck with NGC. A few in the lists would grade higher by another standard.
My latest, have two for this date.
Besides answering the OP's question, the above lists shows how busy I can get sometimes. But at $40 a pop, it would take 5 figures to get them graded and graded again.....so..... Likely the same reason why they're still in their raw state. Nonetheless, a few are of very high quality. Coins usually speak for themselves and having the ability to discern what they're saying, well.... Whenever the opportunity arises, it's always a joy going through a good box!
I still keep up my Roosevelt Dimes and Jefferson Nickels including all proof and satin finish issues in Dansco albums, and still continue to update my previously posted in the "Show your Capital Holder Sets" my 20th Century Type Set.
/Users/Steve/Pictures/Photos Library.photoslibrary/resources/derivatives/D/D8BD02E7-DAE5-4BA7-BA32-36D95C741B58_1_105_c.jpeg
My local club (back when I attended) had 20 or so members. I brought some slabbed coins for show and tell and they looked at me like i was some sort of freak.
Comments
Also have the 2021 and 2023 Full Morgan and Peace set all raw.
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
I buy pretty much every single coin raw.
Collector of Capped Bust Halves, SLQ's, Commems, and random cool stuff! @davidv_numismatics on Instagram
No reason not to do both slabbed and raw. I love working on those old Library of Coins albums! Now have several of those going.
10-4,
My Instagram picturesErik
My registry sets
Both.
I hear you, but (from the point of view of a collector who buys all his coins based on photos and trust), I'll say:
I would not buy an unslabbed double eagle (I'm assuming that that's what you're referring to by "circ $20") from a dealer with which I was unfamiliar as readily as I would buy one that is certified by a reputable TPG. $2000 is too much money for me to trust blindly, when I have no way of determining that it's genuine, even after I get the coin. And I doubt I'm the only one who feels that way. Maybe enough others don't care that the price is not affected; maybe not.
I submit that it's axiomatic that one would expect to get a substantial amount more for a $1000 coin that has been certified by a reputable TPG than the same coin that has not, if one's sales are very often through photos. I certainly would not even think about spending anything like $1000 on a coin that I was guessing as to its actual grade and authenticity based only on photos.
I grant the third point, but wonder about how long a $1000 raw coin would sit compared to the same coin certified by a reputable TPG, on average.
What's a slabbed coin???
All raw for me. The last slab I had I traded for a nice 20 cent piece.
I am not an EAC person, but I hear that most EAC collectors don't like slabs (I don't know if this is true or not, just something I heard over the years). EAC= Early American Coppers.
I haven’t collected raw coins, in 20 years. Only thing raw I would consider buying would be an ASE, or some other mint product, in original government packaging. Certification makes so much more sense from a financial standpoint and also as protection and authentication.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
Like my friend who owns this piece?
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1091039/had-dinner-with-a-few-friends-last-night/p1
I have Dansco albums from Lincoln cents to Kennedy halves. Everything from the late 50's came from broken out mint & proof sets. Rolls and rolls of Lincolns, Jeffersons and silver Roosevelts. Still buy raw but not on-line and not very often. About 1,800 slabs, the vast majority Roosevelt dimes. That being said, I'll never limit myself to one or the other. Reason for all the slabs ? Not the smartest way to collect but I initially wanted a ms65 set. Then noticed alot of ms66's were available for a slight increase in cost. Well, guess what ? ms67 now completed with alot of 67+ and a few 68's. Crap !!! This IS NOT the smart way to do it. Especially since I never sold the 65 & 66's.
i have many non slabbed coins in my collection
https://www.omnicoin.com/collection/colind
I have both slabbed and raw Morgan & Peace coins, but Dansco needs to make an album for 2021-? Morgan and Peace Dollars. I'd like to display my coins in an album to get toned and appreciated, Anyone else agree?
I am currently putting a set of Peace dollars together and am having so much more fun collecting what I like than worrying about what a grading company is going to say about it. With that being said, I am almost finished putting a set of commemoratives together and they are all slabbed so that when I pass away, my wife (who knows very little about coins) will have a starting point when she sells them.
You will get almost no price bump for a circ $20 (common date) from it being slabbed, certainly less than the cost of certification.
As for #3, it depends on what it is and what your customer base is. There are, for example, many $500 to $1000 Morgan dollars that could be sold raw fairly quickly in a BM. Key date coins would sell quickly if you have buyers looking.
I'm not telling you to ever buy a raw coin. I'm just saying that there are legitimate reasons why some coins, even some moderately expensive coins are still raw. The biggest one being bullion. Other than Cougar (see the other thread), most dealers don't make more than $75 or $100 on a $20, sometimes as low as $50. There is literally no profit in submitting them.
I prefer all raw on modern (last 50 or so years) and I may buy slabbed if I don’t know the seller too well. My problem with the graded coins is people seem to believe a 70 is worth a fortune and a 69 is worth melt.
I'm an album collector at heart. My complete seated quarter set was in a Dansco. I started slabbing them earlier this year to make it easier for my kids to sell. If I start another collection, it will be something much lower valued but will be in a Dansco.
There's a huge raw world out there to explore and cherrypick. For instance...
1845-O WB13 (R6)
1855/54
It's gone! The seller took down the photo. Maybe he sold it out from under me. We'll see. If it still remains available, it looks to be a nice VG10 but a late die state.
I used to crack out coins for my 7070 album but once that was completed, I stopped the practice. Most of the coins I'm after these days have been the subject of counterfeiters and having the authentication is a definite plus. My other area of collecting, Early Copper, is mostly traded raw but if I find a nice slabbed piece I'm not going to crack it...
Here's my 7070...
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1089350/my-completed-dansco-7070-type-set#latest
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
Such good eye appeal with these coins! Interesting dates too.
Thanks @semikeycollector
It just gives you a flavor of my interests with some raw coins. Although to be fair, I have broken some key dates out over the years to complete some albums/sets.
Fortunately or unfortunately, all my albums have revolved around budget at the time of putting them together. Yes, eye appeal, a consistent look and problem free/straight graded coins have always motivated me. I like circulated sets. I never really liked the idea of a G-4 1921-D Walker on the same page with a Mint State 1935 Walker.
I tried to build a consistent looking set around the 1885 VF Liberty (Full Liberty) Nickel. I intentionally bought "down graded" coins to match the 85.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
@Oakstar - I like circulated sets. I never really liked the idea of a G-4 1921-D Walker on the same page with a Mint State 1935 Walker.
Haven't seen the Dansco WLH album setup. I have my WLH's in the LOC albums and page 2 of Book 1 goes from 1919 D to 29 D, so easy to have a nice circulated matched set of G4 - F12. Page 3 (29 S - 37 P) is almost all MS. Not sure if the Coin & Currency Institute had this in mind when they created the albums but I like the design since my set is a progressively improved grade.
For anything that's modern (past 50 years), I prefer original mint packaging over a slab. The coins are well enough protected and consistently high enough quality that I don't think the holder adds a ton of value. And I think the packaging in good condition will become more rare than the coins themselves fairly quickly.
IG: DeCourcyCoinsEbay: neilrobertson
"Numismatic categorizations, if left unconstrained, will increase spontaneously over time." -me
Technically, I collect both. However, almost all of my raw coins are all low value. Today, everything I do is graded. I do not buy modern, Mint products (just not my area of focus).
It is much faster for me to find the quality I want in graded coins. Also, it will be much easier for my less-than-knowledgeable wife to sell my coins if they are graded, should something happen to me unexpectedly.
I am a newer collector (started April 2020), and I primarily focus on U.S. Half Cents and Type Coins. Early copper is my favorite.
I prefer my coins raw, unless I can't expect to find the particular coin otherwise. I'm happy with filling albums and still am making custom books from scratch on request.
Custom album maker and numismatic photographer, see my portfolio here: (http://www.donahuenumismatics.com/).
I buy them slabbed and crack them out.
Let's see them.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Most of my Buffalo Nickels are raw except for key dates. I did the same with Kennedy Half Dollars, Washington Quarters, Standing Liberty Quarters, Jefferson Nickels and Roosevelt Dimes. I’m still missing some key dates which I will only buy slabbed. More recently, I’ve been collecting Morgan and Peace dollars. I’ve learned the hard way to only buy these slabbed. I have a several rarer date AU sliders that are all cleaned.
Would love to see some of those raw albums!
Happy, humble, honored and proud recipient of the “You Suck” award 10/22/2014
I like the LOC albums for the WLH & Peace collection. Nice & compact. For the WLH 65 coins there are 2 books, 5 pages of 12 coins and the last page houses the last 5 coins with 7 holes for extras. As noted it fits nice with my progressively better grades.
For the Peace 24 coins there are 2 pages of 9 coins and the last page for the remaining 6 with the 3 extra holes. I had the LOC Morgan album also, 3 book set, but sold and kept the Dansco.
I use the sticky stuff that comes with folded mailed advertisements to attach the labels and easy to remove and not effect the cardboard. The old ANACs white slab label backs were tacky and stick on their own. As requested.
Here is my Peace Dollars
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
Cent collection.
Flying Eagle and Indian Head Cents
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
Cent collection in folders (soon to be moved to a Dansco)
Set 1
set 2
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
Master Cent Collection (Lincoln Memorial)
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
Master Set Lincoln Wheat Set
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
Bison Nickels
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
This area has been transitioning for awhile, especially for those doing higher grade date and/or major variety sets (like me). And the EAC dealers have followed suit, offering good mixes of raw and slabbed coins now.
The hard core Sheldon variety collectors have little use for slabs, as so many of the coins would only get Details grades anyway.
But to your point, I remember being at an EAC show held in conjunction with a regional show around 1995. I was showing one of the guys my 1819 in an ANACS MS60 holder and being admonished for keeping it that way, since there was a spot of gunk on the reverse. He offered to crack it for me and properly treat it before it got worse. I politely declined, still have the coin, and it hasn’t changed at all.
American Silver Eagles
2019 Full set with 2 S-ERP
I have more raw but don't want to spam the forum.
My current registry sets:
20th Century Type Set
Virtual DANSCO 7070
Slabbed IHC set - Missing the Anacs Slabbed coins
A bit of this and a bit of albums.
The great majority of my EAC collection is raw. Most were purchased that way. A few of those were cracked out by previous owners, some were cracked by me... here's a glimpse...
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
Can you tell?
Transactions from;
Apr 2021; 81 PL or SPL
38, 38D, 38S, (2) 39, 40, (2) 40D, 40S, (4) 41, 41D, 41S, (2)42, 42D, 42P, 42S, 43P, (2) 43D, 43S, 44P, 44S, 45P, (2) 45D, 45S, 46, 46S, 47, 48S, 49, 50, 51, 51S, 52, 52D, 52S, (2) 53D, (2) 53S, (4) 54D, 55, (2) 55D, (2) 56, (2) 58, 58D, (3) 59, (4) 59D, 60, 60D, (2) 61, (2) 61D, (3) 62D, (2) 63, (3)64D, (3) 65 SMS (81)
July 2021 Toned coins from a capital holder and a 2x2 box. 23 coins. 38, 38D, 39SR38, 42D, 43P and 38D, 39R38, 39SR38, 42P, 43P, 43S, 46D, 47P, 51P, 53P, 56P, 60P, 65, 68D, 69S, 77D, 79P, 91D. (104T)
Next; 22 PL coins. 43D, 43S, 44D, 46S, 48S, 2- 49S, 2- 52D, 52-S, 53D, 2- 54P, 55P, 56P. 2-57P, 57D, 62P (56 dates PL). 2- 80P and the 84P. (126T)
Some dates listed below are PL but left un-noted.
14 coins 38P, 38S, 39P, 39S, 43D, 44D, 46S, 48S, 49S, 50P, 52D, 53S, 56D, 57P. (140)
Oct. 2021
38D, 39S, 41P, 42S, 46P, 46D, 47P, 48D, 49P, 49S, 54P, 55P, 56P, 56D, 57P, 59P, 59D, 60P, 60D, 64P, 43P, 44D, 48, 52D, 53P, 53D, 54D. Nice grades w/FS. 27 (167)
Annotations; wk (weak), nk (nck)s, scrt(s) (scratch)s, mk (mark), ov. (obverse), rv. (reverse), DE (die erosion), lam (lamination), L (luster) S (semi), PL (prooflike), mky (marky), n (nick), b (bridge), t (toned), scp (scrapes), hvy (heavy), c/steps (compensated), abr (abrasion) S-T (strike thru), ck (cheek), dpl (die polish lines), E (EDS), f (full), w (weak), qrtr (quarter), QSC (quarter step count)
58 coins w/opinions Oct 2021;
65 BS MS65 f/str steps, dpl, PL
66 BS MS64 m 4.5 dpl, De in hair
67 BS MS65 m+ QSC 3345 1 sm. nk, center str-thru, b's, almost FS, c spotting rv.
68D MS64 m/f 6535 QSC nk, blemished fields, lt. scrt ov.
69S MS63 f 6335 QSC n and ticks, lg mk on high ck bone.
70D MS64+ f/str lg S-T left of steps, PL. lg mk ov. Chick scrths rv.
70S MS63+ about 5 nks, nks ov. rv
71 MS64/5 f 6 sm hit, nks ov
71D MS63/5 w/E 6, flaw in hair
72 MS64+ E 6 lt t
72D MS65/4 E 5.25 mky rv
73 MS65 E 5.25, minor spotting
74 MS63 f 5, scrts on obv. and rev., marky.
74D MS64/5 f 5, scrt on coat, hit on chin
75 MS63/4 f 5, scrps on forehead and brow, scrth rv.
75D MS65 E -5 nk, die crack rv.
76 MS64+ f -5 str-thru and wk qrtr step under 3rd pillar, colorful
76D MS65 E -5 tick, 3 minor scrps ov, lt scrt l-field ov.
77 MS64+ E -5 wk quarter on 5th, L+, scrpe forehead, few mks.
77D MS64+ E 5.25, scrt hair, nks forehead
78 MS63/5 f 5.25, six sm scrps, deep scrt in field ov.
78-D MS64/5 f 5.25 scrps on coat
79 MS63/5 f 5 scrps on coat
79D MS64 m/f 5, de hair, spotty, L-
80P MS63/5 4.75 2 nks, wk quarter, scrps nks on ck and forehead
80D MS64 f 5 mks on high ck & rv field, scrp in hair.
81P MS63 w/f -5 b left side, long scrt in hair, de.
81D MS65 f -5 b
82P MS64 E 5.25, cuts, scrts
83P MS64/5 E 5,25, minor scrp, hits hair, not L, lt t
83D MS64/5 f 5
84P MS65 f 5.25
84D MS65 f 5.25 tick
85P MS64+ f 5.50. Mks, spot rv.
87P MS66 E 6
88P MS65 E 6, minor lt scat'd mks ov., t rv.
89P MS65+ E/str 6 PL
89D MS64+ E 5.75
90P MS65 E 6, scrt coat
91-P MS64 E -6, scrts on ck
91D MS65 E -6
92P MS65 E 6, tiny spot on ck
92D MS66 E 6
93P MS64/5 E 6
93D MS65/6 E 6
94D MS64 E 6 rough rim
95P MS65 E 6
95D MS65 E 6
96P MS65 E 6
96P MS65 E 6 lt scrts, nks on ck
96D MS66 E -6n
97-P MS64 E 6
98-D MS64 E 6 PL
99-P MS64+ E 6 spotty ov.
00D MS64 E 6 mky ov.
01D MS66 E 6
02P MS66 E 6
02D MS66 E 6 (226)
Feb 2022 21 coins
38D MS64 E 6545 QSC, t, subtle L-, 4 ov. mks. spots
39 r38 MS65/4 f 5445 QSC, lt. scrth hair, L, nice str.
39D r38 MS64+ f/E 6544 QSC rough, nks. hvy t ov., colorful rv., L-, ov. lathe lines.
39D r40 MS64 f -5.00 wk, hvy t, L-, nicely aged.
39S r38 MS64+ f 5445 QSC, mks ov. L, gold t.
40D MS65 f-/f 6, L, spots
40S MS64 f/w strike oddity.
41D MS65 f 5.25 T, L+
41D MS65 f 6. L+, SPL, lt. scrts ov. and rv.
41D MS64 f 6 L. De, possible D/D
41D MS63+ w/str 6, de, L+
41D MS65+ m+ -6 minor flaw and wkness, de, SPL
41D MS65 f- 6, sm. scrt ov. field, SPL
42D MS64 f 6, mky ck, fields. lt. scrt rv. De, SPL
42D MS65 f 6 Colorful t, rough ck, nk, scrps ov., sevl scrts rv.
42P MS65 f -5.25 nk, L+. lam, rim flaw
42S 66/5 E steps b, L+ ov., t, rv.
43P MS65+ E 5.50 lt marks on portrait, priphl t, L+.
43P 64/5 f -6 tick b, mks portrait, lt. scrt coat, P/P
43P 66/7 E/str 4.50 brs, L+. Minor mks chk, c spot nose
43D 65+ E 6 L+, mks, scrts ov. rv., lt. spot chk (247)
April 2022 66 coins w/opinions
44P 63+ f -6 nks, L, scrts ov. and rv. lt. mottle t, mky
44D 66 E -5.25 2nks spot, L+, 3 nks rv.
44D 65+ E 5.25 L+, 4-5 mks in hair, lg spot on UNITED
44D 66/65+ E 5.25 L+, lg mk rv., lam. ov?
45P 64+ f -5 wk/3rdP, L, lt T, mky
45D 64+ f -6 6th wk, L, 2n 2 scrps ov. 3-4 n rv.
47P 64/5 f -5nk lot of 6th, L, T, lg mks in hair
47P 64+/65 f -5.00 b, L, t
47D 65 f 5 L, minor mks
47D 64 m+ -6nk, L- DE
48D 64 f/m 5 L, lg mk ov
48S 64 m+ -5nk b, L/L-
48S 64 f -5 b, L, scrps/rub ov., minor mks DPL, SPL Dramatic S/S
49P 64+ m+/f -5wk nk, L-, t
49D 65 f -5 nks, L, nice t, spotty ov.
50P 64 f steps nk wk, L-, flashy, hvy t
51P 64+ m+/f steps rough, L+, very nice, lg cut on chk
52P 63+ w/str c/steps nks, L-, t, mky
52D 64+ f/m str -5nk b, L-,
52S 63 m+ -5 nk, L, 9-10 hvy mks most on rv.
54P 64 f -5 nks, L, mky, spotty
55P 64+ f -5 n b, L-, mky
55D 64+ m/w str c5544 QSC nks, L+, nice, wk details
55D 64 w/f c5534 nks b's, flat ear
58P 63w -5, nk, black
58P 63+ m+/f str 5 minor nk, SPL, nice for the date, t
58D 64+ f 5.50 L, t, hvy rv. nk, on nose, scp ov.
59P 64 f 5 L-, t
59D 64 m+/f 5 L
62P 64 f -5nk, nice
63 64+ f -5nk b, lt. t
70S 65 f 5.50 b abr, PL S-T ck
73d 65 E 5.25 L+
75P 65 f 5 tick, L
78D 64 f 5.50 mky, scrt, Raised spiral markings on coat
85P 64+ f 5.25 HVY die polish lines ov. rv.
85D 66 f 5 5th thin separation under 3rd & 4th pillar
86D 65 f -5 tick/bump Lt scrat coat
87D 65 f 5.50
88P 64 spot, mky, minor scattered chicken flecks, PL
88P 64 f/str unusual weak steps
88P very worn dies, only 6th step shows.
90D 64+ E -6 minor mks
92D 63 E 6 PL scats, mky
93P 64+ E 6 mky minor
93P 65 E 6 PL mky minor
93D 65 E 6
94P 66 E 6
94P 65 E 6 spot on ck
94D 64 m/str 6 mky, less than full strike, planchet irregularities
95P 65 E 6 PL
95P 66 E 6 very nice
95D 65+ E 6 PL
96D 65+ E 6 PL
97P 66 E/str 6
98P 64 E 6 chicken scrts minor
98D 65 E 6 minor lt. scrts
99P 65 E 6 minor marks
99D 65+ E 6
00D 65 E 6 S-T rv.
03D 65 E 6
2-06P 65 planchet irregularities in fields
06P 66
06D 65 unusual weak steps
2019D PF67? Explore & Disc.
313 new coins that are slowly being implemented into my collection with Capital and IS holders. Others will get new Mylar flips.
But I buy certified coins as well, mainly PCGS or ANACS when they meet my standards in strike, condition and steps. Never had much luck with NGC. A few in the lists would grade higher by another standard.
My latest, have two for this date.
Besides answering the OP's question, the above lists shows how busy I can get sometimes. But at $40 a pop, it would take 5 figures to get them graded and graded again.....so..... Likely the same reason why they're still in their raw state. Nonetheless, a few are of very high quality. Coins usually speak for themselves and having the ability to discern what they're saying, well.... Whenever the opportunity arises, it's always a joy going through a good box!
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
Most of my coins are raw
Only my silver dollars and some select gold are certified
"Bongo hurtles along the rain soaked highway of life on underinflated bald retread tires."
~Wayne
These came in in the past few days .From collectors
...
Is this gonna be on the test?
Why.....certainly! 😏
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
I still keep up my Roosevelt Dimes and Jefferson Nickels including all proof and satin finish issues in Dansco albums, and still continue to update my previously posted in the "Show your Capital Holder Sets" my 20th Century Type Set.
/Users/Steve/Pictures/Photos Library.photoslibrary/resources/derivatives/D/D8BD02E7-DAE5-4BA7-BA32-36D95C741B58_1_105_c.jpeg
Do you guys get more joy in graded or raw coins? I seem to enjoy coins in 2 by 2's a whole lot more.
My local club (back when I attended) had 20 or so members. I brought some slabbed coins for show and tell and they looked at me like i was some sort of freak.
As a basically modern coin collector I prefer them raw as many of the Raw coins I have received look better than so called
70 coins in slabs.