1983 No S Dime Submission Question
![ElKevvo](https://us.v-cdn.net/6027503/uploads/authoricons/ACF310F.gif)
Do I need to crack the dimes out of the proof sets and send them in in flips or send the whole proof set in? I am thinking I need to crack them out but am hesitant to do so as I don't want to be looking for one that got away from me and the pliers!
Sorry for the dumb question!
K
ANA LM
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Comments
Yeah they need to be in flips.
Good luck! Try to practice on other sets if you're really worried.![:) :)](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/smile.png)
Type collector, mainly into Seated. -formerly Ownerofawheatiehorde. Good BST transactions with: mirabela, OKCC, MICHAELDIXON, Gerard
I think that's called a humble brag...
"Do I need to crack out the TWO 1983 no S proof dimes that I bought at issue price from the mint 40 years ago but only recently discovered?"![:* :*](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/kiss.png)
![:D :D](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/lol.png)
![:D :D](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/lol.png)
I'd say the answer is yes. Besides, if you sent the whole set in they might lose one of the other coins and you'd be out the value of that one.![:p :p](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/tongue.png)
Why did you start another thread for this coin?
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
Yes I could have posted to the other thread but did not want my question to not get answered as a lot of knowledgeable folks already commented on that one and might not read it again to provide insight into my question.
Anyway I'll carefully crack them out this weekend and send them in, the advice to practice will be taken on a couple of the other sets.
Thanks as always!
K
Most of the older sets are snapped together, no need to crack it, just pry it apart.![;) ;)](https://forums.collectors.com/resources/emoji/wink.png)
@ElKevvo- I would say the vast majority of the folks here that post comment on threads, bookmark those threads for future reference. They would have seen this submission question and commented. I guess it doesn't really matter.
Good luck with the submission. Post the results in one (or both) of these threads when it comes back.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
I hold the proof sets standing on edge on a hard surface and tap them all around the edges with a hammer or mallet. It breaks the seal between the two halves of the plastic case and they often come apart very easily after that.
Here's an examples of how I've popped a few sets apart.
Disclaimer: I'm not a dealer, trader, grader, investor or professional numismatist. I'm just a hobbyist. (To protect me but mostly you! 🤣 )
I use a pocket knife and the process that OAKSTAR uses, works well, doesn't damage the coins if you are careful to make sure the knife blade gets nowhere near the coins.
An authorized PCGS dealer, and a contributor to the Red Book.
I would send the entire set as is. Let them remove the coins. They have a lot of experience in doing so. Have the entire set graded. The fact that they will have consecutive label numbers will show that they came from the same set. A very cool group/set to have IMO.
@ElKevvo ... I would crack them out and send in individual flips... But first with a call to Customer Service though... To confirm they do not need the set to authenticate the origin of the '83 no S. That could be important. Cheers, RickO
well i had never heard of the proof no s dime in 1983 so i double checked my proofs which are clad btw and yep there is an s dad gummit
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Type collector, mainly into Seated. -formerly Ownerofawheatiehorde. Good BST transactions with: mirabela, OKCC, MICHAELDIXON, Gerard