Thoughts on $5 Indian gold: please vote

johnny010

Assume same eye appeal for now, and no green bean kicker to consider.

1912: MS65+

• 790,000 made
• survivors: 36,000
• MS65 or better: 110
• PCGS 65+ is 4 TOP POP non higher
• 65 or higher rarity 7.9
• valued at $20K and can be purchased for swag $20,500

1914-D: grade MS65

• 247,000 made
• survivors: 9,000 left
• 65 or better: 30
• PCGS MS65 15, with 5 higher
• 65 or higher rarity 8.9
• valued at $22,500 and can be purchased for swag $19,500.

johnny010

let me add, I'm a collector only not a dealer.

JW77

Too close to call; consider adding a third category for a tie.

BustDMs

1914-D

Edited to comment whichever has better eye appeal.

dsessom

1914-D

I would get the 1914-D. The half grade ( + ) doesn't really sway me enough to pass up a rarer coin (by a factor of 4), however, eye appeal and strike quality are also major factors for me in considering a purchase.

johnny010

1912

or
1914-D

(certs removed since I do not own them)

asheland

1914-D

Close call, any difference in eye appeal is where I'd go, but given the same eye appeal, the 14-D

P0CKETCHANGE

1914-D

Voted for the ‘14-D based on the text description, but based on the photos, I’d go with the 1912. That spot on the eagle’s wing would bother the heck out of me.

dsessom

1914-D

The 1912 wins visually for sure. It's got a better strike, better color, and as @P0CKETCHANGE pointed out, the small spot on the eagles wing is a bit of a distraction.

DelawareDoons

1912

@johnny010 said:
1912

or
1914-D

(certs removed since I do not own them)

Voted 1912 based on these pics.

alaura22

1912

1912 based on the pic, otherwise the 1914 is a better value save the spot

johnny010

Thanks for the replies.
So I’m reading a less rare coin that looks better and is similarly graded and priced might be the way to go now that I added pictures.

Wondering if that spot could be removed.

oldabeintx

1912

1912 is my father’s birth year. Have an AU in his birth set, would be a nice upgrade but Indians look nice in 58.

Smudge

1914-D

After seeing the photos, I may have to rethink my choice. The 1912 has some nice color.

P0CKETCHANGE

1914-D

It could be the difference in photography, but the strike also looks better on the 1912. And is that a contact mark on the lower cheek of the ‘14-D? I’d prefer a clean cheek at the gem level, if I had a choice. Color also looks better on the earlier date, although again could be the photography. A few good reasons to consider the ‘12.

jmlanzaf

I like the 12 much better than the 14-D.

Personally, I wouldn't buy either one.

johnny010

@jmlanzaf said:
I like the 12 much better than the 14-D.

Personally, I wouldn't buy either one.

Thanks for the input on the 12.

Why wouldn’t you buy either one? ROI I’m assuming…

johnny010

1912 face good catch @P0CKETCHANGE

1914-D face

MFeld

@johnny010 said:
Thanks for the replies.
So I’m reading a less rare coin that looks better and is similarly graded and priced might be the way to go now that I added pictures.

Wondering if that spot could be removed.

Considering that you described yourself as a collector and you’re wondering “if that spot could be removed”, I’d suggest passing on the offending coin, right now. You can always look for other options that don’t raise such questions/concerns for you.

johnny010

@MFeld said:

@johnny010 said:
Thanks for the replies.
So I’m reading a less rare coin that looks better and is similarly graded and priced might be the way to go now that I added pictures.

Wondering if that spot could be removed.

Considering that you described yourself as a collector and you’re wondering “if that spot could be removed”, I’d suggest passing on the offending coin, right now. You can always look for other options that don’t raise such questions/concerns for you.

No mystery here. I’ve never sent a coin in for restoration. Appreciate the feedback

jmlanzaf

@johnny010 said:

@jmlanzaf said:
I like the 12 much better than the 14-D.

Personally, I wouldn't buy either one.

Thanks for the input on the 12.

Why wouldn’t you buy either one? ROI I’m assuming…

Yeah. I don't want $20,000 tied up in a non-diversified speculative asset.

batumi

1914-D

@MFeld said:

@johnny010 said:
Thanks for the replies.
So I’m reading a less rare coin that looks better and is similarly graded and priced might be the way to go now that I added pictures.

Wondering if that spot could be removed.

Considering that you described yourself as a collector and you’re wondering “if that spot could be removed”, I’d suggest passing on the offending coin, right now. You can always look for other options that don’t raise such questions/concerns for you.

Considering the risk of a down grade, I would also pass, even if fairly certain said spot could successfully be removed. Personally, I like attractive 64's and the huge savings in this series.

winesteven

1912

@johnny010 said:

@MFeld said:

@johnny010 said:
Thanks for the replies.
So I’m reading a less rare coin that looks better and is similarly graded and priced might be the way to go now that I added pictures.

Wondering if that spot could be removed.

Considering that you described yourself as a collector and you’re wondering “if that spot could be removed”, I’d suggest passing on the offending coin, right now. You can always look for other options that don’t raise such questions/concerns for you.

No mystery here. I’ve never sent a coin in for restoration. Appreciate the feedback

See my reply in a different thread, titled “Double Upgrade?”, where I show real nice success with PCGS Restoration on a Double Eagle. However, I also agree with @MFeld above.

Separately, I voted for the 1912 before seeing the photos, since I’m a “Grade Whore”, always succumbing to a coin in a higher grade, if it has nicer eye appeal. In this case, I like the fact that as far as grade rarity goes, there are ONLY four at 65+, with NONE higher!

Steve

gumby1234

The 1912 is much nicer. You can't rely on pop reports and or estimated survival.

winesteven

1912

@gumby1234 said:
The 1912 is much nicer. You can't rely on pop reports and or estimated survival.

While that’s true in regards to pop numbers that are high might actually be lower, in the case of the 1912, where NONE are finer is apparently accurate, AND with a pop of only four in that grade, if anything, the actual pop could only be lower, if not four!

jmlanzaf

@winesteven said:

@gumby1234 said:
The 1912 is much nicer. You can't rely on pop reports and or estimated survival.

While that’s true in regards to pop numbers that are high might actually be lower, in the case of the 1912, where NONE are finer is apparently accurate, AND with a pop of only four in that grade, if anything, the actual pop could only be lower, if not four!

Assuming that everything is known and already submitted and in its max holder. If there's a hoard out there, the pop could explode.

winesteven

1912

@jmlanzaf said:

@winesteven said:

@gumby1234 said:
The 1912 is much nicer. You can't rely on pop reports and or estimated survival.

While that’s true in regards to pop numbers that are high might actually be lower, in the case of the 1912, where NONE are finer is apparently accurate, AND with a pop of only four in that grade, if anything, the actual pop could only be lower, if not four!

Assuming that everything is known and already submitted and in its max holder. If there's a hoard out there, the pop could explode.

To avoid me getting banned, I won’t give a comment about my Aunt.

Steve

ricko

1912

Well, I like detail on a coin, and the 1912 has finer detail - both sides - so that gets my vote. To spend that much though, I would have to be seeing them in hand prior to commitment. Cheers, RickO

winesteven

1912

@ricko said:
Well, I like detail on a coin, and the 1912 has finer detail - both sides - so that gets my vote. To spend that much though, I would have to be seeing them in hand prior to commitment. Cheers, RickO

So word is now going around that @ricko likes “Detailed” coins.😂

ricko

1912

@winesteven ... Obviously, I must learn to parse my words here.... Much like the evaluation of a coin, it seems words are just as closely scrutinized. Nevermind, I will continue to post as always, and then chuckle at the interpretations as offered. Cheers, RickO

batumi

1914-D

@jmlanzaf said:

@winesteven said:

@gumby1234 said:
The 1912 is much nicer. You can't rely on pop reports and or estimated survival.

While that’s true in regards to pop numbers that are high might actually be lower, in the case of the 1912, where NONE are finer is apparently accurate, AND with a pop of only four in that grade, if anything, the actual pop could only be lower, if not four!

Assuming that everything is known and already submitted and in its max holder. If there's a hoard out there, the pop could explode.

The hoard of 1912-S found a few years ago comes to mind. I even read about a mini hoard of 1933 double eagles on this forum!

asheland

1914-D

Even if a hoard was found, seldom do these make the 65 grade, hence the price...