New to grading a card.

PulaskiRams1980

I am trying to get a grasp on the whole grading thing. I took some cards to a local card shop (who has been in business since 1985) and asked him what he thought about me sending in some of them. I have been collecting since 1968 when I was 6 and stopped in 1977 or so. I then took it up again in 1987 - 1995. I really only collect or save them because I like how they bring back memories to me of when I was young. I recently started thinking of what to do with them, so my kids don't have to go through them all when I am gone.
The local dealer looked through all my 50 or so cards I brought in that I opened the packs of when I was 6-12 years old and have kept in a large storage box at my moms and then at my house. I have about 500,000 total cards but only brought 50 or so for him to look at. He took them and shuffled through them in about 2 mins and said that he would do only these 5 cards. 1969 Reggie Jackson, 1969-70 Lew Alcindor rookie, 1970 Nolan Ryan, 1970 Johnny Bench and 1970 Thurman Munson. All which I thought looked pretty good. He told me that the Lew A would probably grade as a A because of what he thought was a "short cut". I asked him what that meant (again, I am new grading thing) and he said that the card was probably cut. I told him I open the packs and put them in my box. He said, "Well everyone says that". Here is where I become skeptical about the grading process or the sending them in without really ever being able to identify your cards from any other. So, he told me what all 5 cards would probably grade at and he was exactly right when they came back. Hmmmm....seems like he should just do his own grading or am I being way too pessimistic? Please help me in this dilemma. Should I just hang on to them or try another option?
Thanks so much for listening to my lengthy story.

Jayman1982

@PulaskiRams1980 said:

So, he told me what all 5 cards would probably grade at and he was exactly right when they came back. Hmmmm....seems like he should just do his own grading or am I being way too pessimistic? Please help me in this dilemma. Should I just hang on to them or try another option?
>

Does this mean you sent them in and they received the exact grades he predicted?

High quality, up close pictures (preferably scans) of the cards you think are of value would be the best way to get advice from this board.

JoeBanzai

Cards from this era need to be in almost "perfect" condition.
Post some scans of your cards.

1951WheatiesPremium

Sounds to me like the guy at the card shop did right by you and knows his stuff.

Make sure to thank him and buy something if you can.

DBesse27

@1951WheatiesPremium said:
Sounds to me like the guy at the card shop did right by you and knows his stuff.

Make sure to thank him and buy something if you can.

Agree with all of this. The only thing I’d add is that it’s possible the Alcindor was cut short at the factory.

Edit to ask: what exactly is the “dilemma” you need advice about? Happy to help if I understood the issue.

PulaskiRams1980

Thank you all for the quick feedback. I by no means was disbelieving the owner, I have known him for almost 40 years. I will try to get some scans of the cards. I am a novice to this venture and appreciate all the wisdom I can get. You all are awesome. Thanks again. Scans to come.

totallyradd

There's a bit of a learning curve to grading, and we've all gone through it. There are lots of factors that go into grading, but the main four (in order of what I look for from most important to least important, but all equally affect a grade): centering, corners, surface, and edges. Cards from the 60s and 70s are tough to get in high grade for a number of reasons. Even if you opened them up and put them in a box immediately, the quality control wasn't the greatest back then.

In most cases a 5 or a 6 is relatively common. Be thrilled if you get a 7. 8 is a blazer, and 9 or 10 is nearly impossible.

As you get a few cards back, you'll start to get a feel for why a card graded why it did. Then you'll have a good grasp of what grades you expect when you send cards in.

Before your next submission write down each card and given them each a grade. See how you did when they come back. It's a fun practice and will help your eye in the long run. Based on the five cards you sent in, I'm sure you have many others worth submitting as well.

Good luck with it, and keep us posted on your journey!

• Corey

PulaskiRams1980

Here are some pics of the cards for "New to Grading". Hope these are okay to see.
Again, thank you all for the valuable comments.

RufussCkingston

I'm calling SHENANIGANS !!!! These cards (I couldn't read the cert on the Lew) were all graded in May 2022, and the Lew's case is all scratched up. Are you going to tell us that this all took place almost a year ago and you are posting about it now?? Of course this is a more PSA focused forum, but did you send these to SGC yourself or did Carnac the "Dealer" send them in for you???

PaulMaul

I’m confused. Why are the cert numbers all over the place if they were submitted together?

Chicago1976

@PaulMaul said:
I’m confused. Why are the cert numbers all over the place if they were submitted together?

Unlike PSA, SGC cert numbers are not sequential. The certs on my last 5-card order were seemingly random. Not sure how or why they assigned like this.

PaulMaul

@Chicago1976 said:

@PaulMaul said:
I’m confused. Why are the cert numbers all over the place if they were submitted together?

Unlike PSA, SGC cert numbers are not sequential. The certs on my last 5-card order were seemingly random. Not sure how or why they assigned like this.

Interesting, I never knew that.

PulaskiRams1980

Okay, don't be confused RuFuss. First of all, like I stated I am new to grading and moving any of my cards. I have never sold a card in my life on any platform. I have had these in my possession since I bought them as a kid in the 60's and 70's. I am just trying to figure things out and take care of the process, so my kids don't have to when I pass. I have come to the conclusion that having these cards in a box in a room instead of out for people to see and enjoy is pointless. Now, for the answer to your confusion. They were sent in by the dealer last May, he suggested SGC instead of PSA because of the cost at that time. I have been in a state of not believing much of anything with the grading system and very leery of sending a card in and never knowing if you get the exact one back. I know I must trust the system but kind of thinking I might just want to hang on to what I have and see what happens in the months, years to come. Any ideas as to what I should do? I love looking at the cards myself and it does bring back many memories for me and friends. I am not trying by any means to get rich or make a quick buck. I just want to get to know the value of what I might have for my kids and insurance should I need it.
I don't even know what you were all talking about with the cert numbers and them being in an order. Sorry for my lack of knowledge in this venture. Maybe I am in over my head with all of this.

DBesse27

I must be dense (likely) but I still don’t understand what your question is. Are you wondering whether the grades were accurate? Looks like they were. Are you wondering whether you got back the exact same copies? I’d have no reason to doubt this, but the only way to tell for sure would be side by side before and after pics, so that any minute unique characteristics could be compared. Wondering about value of your graded cards? That should be easy to calculate by looking at real sales data, either eBay sold listings, auction prices realized on the PSA website, or buying a 24 hour pass at vintagecardprices.com . Are you wondering whether you should send more cards for grading? Nobody could ever answer that without knowing what other cards you have and seeing the condition. So far it sounds like your friend the dealer hasn’t steered you wrong, so if he said you only had 5 cards worth submitting for grading then I tend to believe him. Do you have a question that I missed?

Chicago1976

As far as trust goes, SGC, PSA, BGS, and CSG are the most trusted, well respected 3rd party graders in the hobby. They have been around for decades. The chance your card was swapped is very, very low. Additionally, their grades are generally recognized and accepted as accurate. Bottom line: low risk sending your card to these companies.

If you are keeping these cards and passing them on to the kids, grading a vintage baseball card has many advantages. 1. The card is protected (better than raw in a shoebox) and 2. Having it graded eliminates the squabbles about value. You can compare that card/grade to sales history on line. It's documented and typically accepted by collectors as a fair price.

For example, if you look up your 1970 Bench card in an SGC 6, you can see what collectors have paid for that card over the years, giving you a starting point for a value. According to vintagecardprices.com, that Bench card in an SGC 6 sells on average for around $150. A few have sold for $200. This will help your kids down the road if they choose to sell or just want to assess the value of your collection.

Cert numbers are those tiny identification numbers the grading companies put on the cases. For your Bench, its 2057765. It doesn't impact value.

Hope this helps! You have some really nice cards, protected in a case, and likely increased their value from raw.

DeutscherGeist

The nice thing about having cards graded is that:

1. They are then well protected so it can easily be enjoyed with family and friends viewing them.
2. Easier to sell since the condition has been verified by a reliable third party not some random person's opinion with a possible motive.
3. There is a certification number on the plastic slab which makes the graded card a unique commodity.
4. Easier for novices to determine value since all they have to do is type in the info from the label onto the eBay sold listings and get a good idea of what it is selling for.

Stone193

Here is where I become skeptical about the grading process or the sending them in without really ever being able to identify your cards from any other. So, he told me what all 5 cards would probably grade at and he was exactly right when they came back. Hmmmm....seems like he should just do his own grading or am I being way too pessimistic?

Hiya PR80 and welcome to the boards!

What do you mean by "identify your cards?"

What did you mean by him doing his "own" grading? You asked what he thought they might grade and he was accurate.
Not sure what the incredulity would be?

"Seems like he should just do his own grading? Not sure what you mean by this?

I like Dan aka DBesse27 have no idea what you're main concern is?

PulaskiRams1980

Good afternoon! First of all, I would like to say THANK YOU ALL for the ****words, care and time**** you put in reading and viewing my blundering. It has helped me immensely in my recent undertaking. My dealer did say that I had around 350 to 400 cards worth sending in when the prices go down. That is why he only sent in the 5 at first. I will definitely go back to him now after reading what has been stated to me by all of you. I will keep reading posts to continue learning. I hope you all have a super day!! Once more - - Thank you!

PulaskiRams1980

Well Stone, here are my answers;
What do you mean by "identify your cards?" Getting back the actual cards I sent in.

What did you mean by him doing his "own" grading? You asked what he thought they might grade and he was accurate.
Not sure what the incredulity would be? Only meant that it seems pretty awesome that he can do the job that the company we are paying to have this done and be accurate. I give him Kudos!

"Seems like he should just do his own grading? Not sure what you mean by this? He was spot on and I am commending him.

I like Dan aka DBesse27 have no idea what you're main concern is? Main concern is me learning the best way to proceed with sending them in for grading.

Sorry if all my posts were confusing.