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Photography update

spyglassdesignspyglassdesign Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited December 29, 2022 1:49PM in U.S. Coin Forum

First and foremost, thanks to Robec and others that have helped me on my journey to photography of coinage...

I am constantly experimenting with techniques, lighting color type placement etc. I have recently decided to try my ring light again I bought for my camera a while back, and have discovered that some of the raw coins, especially the darker ones with toning that are generally harder to photo, are seemingly a lot easier with the ring light, either alone or with the addition of the other 2 light sources. I found this interesting because before when I attempted the ring light it didn't work at all for me. It generally doesn't work with slabbed coins due to the reflection, but for raw coins, especially if toned, it seems to be a nice option.

Just thought I'd share for those who have helped me, and for others who are looking for possible ideas. Of course, YMMV. Practice practice practice! And yes, I know a few have some focus issues, but these were practice pictures. I can't even tough the table my camera is attached to or it shakes like an earthquake lol. Additionally the pics below were taken with the 75-300mm lens not the one attached to the camera at the moment.

Before:

With ring light: The colors and even some of the luster show better

Before:

With Ring Light:

Before:

After:

Comments

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    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Wow.... Great pictures, and thank you for the comparative photo's..... Very interesting. But what is that hairy thing in the picture of your setup???? :o Cheers, RickO

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    spyglassdesignspyglassdesign Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ricko said:
    Wow.... Great pictures, and thank you for the comparative photo's..... Very interesting. But what is that hairy thing in the picture of your setup???? :o Cheers, RickO

    A feather duster 😂😂😂

    Yeah it's kinda cool being able to find a use for a device I had all but written off!

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    spyglassdesignspyglassdesign Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I bought the camera arm off Amazon (I looked specifically for a higher strength one because I know my big lens for closeups is heavy), and the 2 color changing lights also from Amazon. It's a Canon t8i rebel. I also use macro lenses on both camera lenses (came with the camera kit). I also have a couple of broad lights for additional general lighting, also with adjustable temperature and brightness.

    Additionally I use the Canon camera software on my pc to check zoom and focus, and helps with shaking.

    OH and don't forget a level to make sure the camera lens is flush 📸😁

    It's a messy work area but it gets the job done.

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    retirednowretirednow Posts: 474 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Have your tried it on a slabs? i would think it maybe be more difficult.

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    spyglassdesignspyglassdesign Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @retirednow said:
    Have your tried it on a slabs? i would think it maybe be more difficult.

    Yes, I believe I did mention it doesn't work well with slabs largely due to the reflection. It works the best so far with toned raw coins so far. 👍

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    retirednowretirednow Posts: 474 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Ah ... got it

    The Photos look nice in all cases ... appears a little more sensitive on the 1838 - appears a larger gap between the colors

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    spyglassdesignspyglassdesign Posts: 1,514 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @retirednow said:
    Ah ... got it

    The Photos look nice in all cases ... appears a little more sensitive on the 1838 - appears a larger gap between the colors

    Thanks! The difficulty with the '38 was the darkness of the toning. I had a very hard time getting the colors and sheen to show without the ring light. Once I tried the ring light it just popped off the coin.

    The 26 is a duller overall coin so it didn't have as much reflective surface to take advantage of.

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