Can someone help me with VAMS concerning 1922 Peace Dollar?
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jmlanzaf
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@lcourtney123 said:
@jmlanzaf said:
Looks like damage on the lip and strike doubling. Your "mark" needs to look EXACTLY like DD's picture, not just a mark in the general areaThis below I copied and pasted for you is why I am imagining from a small mark to a full moustache.
Like so many die cracks, different examples show indications of progression from a tiny break that appears as a thin line resembling a pencil mustache to a thick split that nearly looks like a walrus mouser encroaching upon Liberty’s cheek
Yours looks to be incuse..
Even if raised. It would have to be higher.
Send it in.
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DeplorableDan
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@lcourtney123 said:
@PapiNE said:
You have a B1 reverse so it can't be a 12A.Can you send me a link to a video or reading material I can study on please?
http://ec2-13-58-222-16.us-east-2.compute.amazonaws.com/wiki/1922-P_VAMs
https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1922-1/7357 (Show Related Coins and Varieties (28)
https://www.vamlink.com/articles/the-1922-p-moustache-variety
Type Collector of U.S. Pre-33 Gold https://instagram.com/deplorable_dan Successful transactions with- @drfish, @Cladiator, @johnny010, @Pedzola, @PerryHall, @2windy2fish, @Ike1964, @JohnThePainter, @rpmsrpms, @REALGATOR
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messydesk
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The coin is strongly machine doubled, which can make fine details like cracks hard to see. As @PapiNE said, it has a B1 reverse, so not an earlier stage of VAM 12A. There's a Peace Dollar Attribution 101 page on VAMWorld. The layout's a bit of a mess but it has lots of good information on what to look for.
John
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars2 -
OptionsDeplorableDan
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@lcourtney123 said:
@jmlanzaf I have been wanting to send in some of the good ones I have. I don't feel comfortable putting a price tag on them for the value I think they are worth. The coin is in good shape. Trying to determine. Could anyone help me ? I noticed its off center as well.
Common date in common circulated condition (au?). It’s not off center enough to warrant an extra premium. There’s no financial upside to send that one in, the grading fees would likely cost more than the coin is worth.
Type Collector of U.S. Pre-33 Gold https://instagram.com/deplorable_dan Successful transactions with- @drfish, @Cladiator, @johnny010, @Pedzola, @PerryHall, @2windy2fish, @Ike1964, @JohnThePainter, @rpmsrpms, @REALGATOR
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gumby1234
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@lcourtney123 As others have already stated the coin is not worth sending in to get graded. Its a common coin in AU or lower grade.
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PapiNE
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Only you can decide if its worth encapsulating. If this is your very first coin and its has significant meaning to you, go for it. If value and future return on investment is being considered, don't do it. I believe it would grade in the low AU range. We can be fairly sure its not a valuable VAM and the 1922 Peace is about as common as they get. Great advice above but only you can determine sentimental value. I've had coins slabbed just because of how I came upon them or I knew my blood ancestors had handled/appreciated them or I just thought they were cool. YOU decide the type of collector you want to be.
USAF veteran 1984-2005
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I know nothing about peace dollar vams but I pulled up a tv of a coin facts vam 12-a, and yours doesn’t look anything like it. I do see some type of doubling but I may just be mechanical doubling. Someone else will clarify I’m sure
Type Collector of U.S. Pre-33 Gold https://instagram.com/deplorable_dan Successful transactions with- @drfish, @Cladiator, @johnny010, @Pedzola, @PerryHall, @2windy2fish, @Ike1964, @JohnThePainter, @rpmsrpms, @REALGATOR
Looks like damage on the lip and strike doubling. Your "mark" needs to look EXACTLY like DD's picture, not just a mark in the general area
@lcourtney123.... Very good pictures... Looks like machine doubling to me. Cheers, RickO
I'm happy to help but its often difficult without the coin in hand. You have 3 rays (lines) under the ONE and a detached olive branch. It's no doubt a B1 reverse. I suggest going to my link and open each VAM for the B1 and try to match the pictures and descriptions to your coin. Use a zoom setting similar to what you see in the VamWorld pictures.
You're lucky in that the B1 reverse has fewer listed VAMs. I find doubling/tripling tough to decipher. Gouges, chips, and breaks are often very obvious. Clashes not so much. If using a handheld scope w/light, moving it around can make anomalies appear/disappear. I can tell from your pictures you don't have a collar clash or cud. I don't see any cracks but VAMs aren't created for mere cracks. They must have another qualifying anomally such as a break or cud (a break and a crack are not the same thing).
The only thing I see in your pictures is a possible VAM 39. Look for the gouge below B of LIBERTY on the obverse. Good luck.
ec2-13-58-222-16.us-east-2.compute.amazonaws.com/wiki/1922-P_VAMs
USAF veteran 1984-2005
Now I'm not a vam guy, but I might be able to be of assistance regarding your question about grading. When one considers getting a coin graded and encapsulated, you must evaluate the reasoning for doing so. Is the coin of sentimental value, and you want to authenticate it and preserve its condition? Have you been practicing grading and want to see how your assigned grades measure up to a tpg? Do you plan on selling the coin in the near future and believe that it will be worth more once encapsulated? Based on your previous post history, I'm goin to assume its the latter scenario.
In that case, one must do three things before proceeding:
Type Collector of U.S. Pre-33 Gold https://instagram.com/deplorable_dan Successful transactions with- @drfish, @Cladiator, @johnny010, @Pedzola, @PerryHall, @2windy2fish, @Ike1964, @JohnThePainter, @rpmsrpms, @REALGATOR
I actually forgot that I had posted a comment on this thread a while ago and an answered your question about getting it slabbed. I would pay less attention to my first comment which you quoted, but pay more attention to my recent, more comprehensive reply above. You can refer to that any time you’re considering using a grading service
Type Collector of U.S. Pre-33 Gold https://instagram.com/deplorable_dan Successful transactions with- @drfish, @Cladiator, @johnny010, @Pedzola, @PerryHall, @2windy2fish, @Ike1964, @JohnThePainter, @rpmsrpms, @REALGATOR
Why would you ever want to spend $30 to grade a $30 coin just because somebody might be looking for it? Your Peace $ is worth $25 to $30. Someone wants it now. Spend $30 putting it in plastic and the same person still wants it for $25 to $30.
With all due respect, I just don't understand your approach.
On another thread you've asked if anyone can mentor you, but you are getting some great advice here but you are just rejecting it.
On another thread you mention that you were trying to sell a Peace Dollar on ebay, but above you say that it's not about the money.
On the other thread you say that you want to get all your coins graded and you seem to have joined PCGS, but you haven't shown any coins yet that experienced people think are worth grading.
If you're having fun and are aware that you are probably throwing away money then you are all set. But if you are looking for people to endorse that approach then I don't think you'll have much luck.
Just my opinion...
This attitude right here is your downfall.
What you call "critiquing" is exactly the kind of advice you should be listening to. You have gotten lots of great "mentoring" from people here but you won't listen to it.
No one said anything about you being a "burden" or criticized your "lingo". I have no idea where you got that from but for some reason you choose to see it in those terms.
In any case, good luck with your hobby.
At one point, they said they could no longer work and wanted to make a business out of it. So I share your confusion about the goals here.
You specifically said slabbing it because someone might want it. I didn't realize the someone was your nephew and it was his birthday. My apologies.