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1964-D Jefferson 5C, A newbie looking for opinion on grading or any other constructive criticisms

As stated perviously, I am very new to all of this. I have gone though 600-800 coins now, and the following I am wondering about my grading, relative to your extensive knowledge and experience on, and any other comments. I have been working really hard to learn, as a number of you already know, and not waste peoples time here. I posted in the wrong section before I think, the Q&A area, and can transplant those here later. Also, should I be posting each different coin/group as a new posting by the way? Or, is putting them into one long post better/more respectful/easier for everyone? For now, I think I will post as new listings each time. Thank you all, and Happy Holidays, Greg.

These are only two of the "best" and "worst," from a clear plastic roll of 40, 1964-D, Jefferson Nickels, PCGS# 4076, none are FS. The best I have graded MS 63 - 66, worst AU 62 - AU 63.








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    All of them look about MS 62, however this is a common date and is not worth more than face value in average uncirculated condition. Additionally, the AU (About Uncirculated) grade range is only from 50 to 58. https://pcgs.com/photograde#/Jefferson/Grades might be a helpful resource to get a better understanding of the Sheldon grading scale

    Young Numismatist

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    @hummingbird_coins, Thank you! Yes, I know that about AUs, I am not sure what my notes are supposed to be saying - but I am new to this, and am not surprised I have written something down wrong! Thank you for pointing that out! I may have been grading the front and back separately, and wrote that wrong, as I have graded both, and then taken the lower grade as my final grade a number of times. I have been using Photograde, watched the PCGS grading videos, and am trying to learn, but it is a steep learning curve to even become a novice from a neophyte, and I know I am not even a novice yet! Thanks Greg.

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    jonathanbjonathanb Posts: 3,430 ✭✭✭✭✭

    What questions do you want answered?

    There were over 1.7 billion (with a B) 1964-D nickels produced. You are more likely to win the lottery than to find one of any value.

    Did you think post these examples for a reason?

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    @jonathanb, Thank you. I posted them, as they were an example of one of the best and one of the worst that came out of a tube of 40 of them that are supposed to be "uncirculated"... Just trying to make sure I am not missing something, and learning in the process on my own time. 1.7 Billion, I know, the odds are really small, but, it is for a client who trusts me with their art and antiques, just trying to help them out. I am just checking my version of grading, agains real numismatists, as I know it is likely that I am off, and in turn, this lead me to figure out if I need to take any seriously. There are some where between 600-800 coins I have looked at now. Sincerely, Greg.

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    3stars3stars Posts: 2,282 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Way too much chatter on Jefferson’s collar to be worth more than face.

    Previous transactions: Wondercoin, goldman86, dmarks, Type2
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    @3stars, thanks! Learning, learning, learning!

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    jmlanzafjmlanzaf Posts: 31,997 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Another time sink.

    There is an unc roll price for these. No coin dealer or auction house would ever go fishing in the rolls.

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    CatbertCatbert Posts: 6,605 ✭✭✭✭✭

    How do you think your learning is coming along now that you've looked at 600-700 coins?

    What do gouges, scratches, relative mintage etc tell you about a coin's value? As you examined these Jeffs, did anything jump out that said to you these do not need to be put aside?

    "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
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    rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @browntrout ... You appear to be working hard at learning about grading - that is commendable. Perhaps enlisting the assistance of a mentor would help. Is there a coin club in your area? If so, contact them and maybe some knowledgeable members can help you. Cheers, RickO

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    @ricko, Thank you for the kind suggestion! Good idea. I will check, I am pretty sure there will be! Sincerely, Greg.

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    @jmlanzaf, Agreed. I have already been fishing, and found nothing. The dealer pulled the top 4 or 5 our, and said, "Gas money!" I laughed. Thanks for the lesson about a "coin roll price," everything is a new lesson right now!

    @Catbert, Oh, there is no doubt that I have made progress, but I am WELL aware how much of a neophyte I am to this area of study! I know this for two main reasons, 1) I can ID coins much faster than I could before. 2) My grades are coming down the more I understand and re-review things. Yes, everything I have been taught here, tells me to be more and more critical of what I see, and then to re-examine Photogrades and understand what I missed. I find that Photograde pages to be a bit hard to get exactly, but am working on it. I am going to look at them again, and see if anything jumps out, which I am expecting to be "negatives" to their quality, along with the penny rolls too. It was very interesting to watch the coin dealer I visited yesterday go through everything. I could tell he did not think much was worthwhile, because he was pretty rough on everything, and only used his loop on a few of the overall collection of coins, including the smaller collection from the other client. Then he made his offers, and I put his offer notes into groups to keep them straight, to then pass by the clients. I plan to go to one more guy this coming week and see his thoguhts. Thank you for your comments, lessons and questions guys, Greg.

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    CatbertCatbert Posts: 6,605 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 10, 2022 5:49PM

    @Catbert said:
    How do you think your learning is coming along now that you've looked at 600-700 coins?

    What do gouges, scratches, relative mintage etc tell you about a coin's value? As you examined these Jeffs, did anything jump out that said to you these do not need to be put aside?

    Never mind.

    "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
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    @Catbert, what I have learned is that a circulated coin is generally going to be an AU, and worth a LOT less! Nothing in particular jumped out at me with the Jefferson nickels, but that does NOT mean I am not seeing what I need to see - as a neophyte, of course! Those are the keys I think you are thinking I need to learn so far.... Is this correct? I may be missing them, but I am trying, I really am! What I have also learned is that the way I have been taking my photos is not fair to the coins in terms of showing what is in these two collections, as it has not showing the shine and "wheel" effect. So, I plan to retake the images again, and submit them again, with what I have learned now is much better way to do the photography, to show what they have!

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    Clackamas1Clackamas1 Posts: 768 ✭✭✭✭✭

    THe most important thing with Jeffs are the steps. All of these without full steps can be had in the thousands. Those that are rare in FS need to be so stunning that you would never need to ask. When you see a legit 67 you will know it.

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    @Clackamas1, Thanks! Got it! That makes sense after all of the learning that I have be afforded by the people here and what I have learned in videos, reading, etc... Thank you! Thus, not important, because none are FS! Thanks, Greg.

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    Clackamas1Clackamas1 Posts: 768 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 16, 2022 12:28AM

    You are welcome. I have had one of the top Jefferson sets - almost all self made. I made the first 68-D in FS. I am glad to see younger people get into it - I am not old BTW- when your eyes are good you can really grade quickly.

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    Clackamas1Clackamas1 Posts: 768 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited December 16, 2022 12:32AM
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    Clackamas1Clackamas1 Posts: 768 ✭✭✭✭✭

    BTW - If you are getting these from mint sets they are going to have deposits of film on them. You can wash it off but you need to be careful and never leave any film or trace of it - rinse like water is free.

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