I got this [nearly] complete Lincoln Cent set for $250. Should I get the 1914 D graded?
AlbumNerd
Posts: 193 ✭✭✭
First post!!!
I purchased a nearly complete Lincoln Cent set that had everything except the dreaded 1909 s VBD and 1922 no date. The purchase price was only $250 and boy let me tell you, I was giddy the entire week as I felt I got one heck of a deal.
I went to two different dealers today and both have given their approval that the 1909 s, 1914 d, and 1931 s are authentic.
I would love folks here to give their opinions on grades and the value of some semi-key dates! Should I get any of the three graded?
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Comments
1922 no D not "no date"
None are worth getting graded for the sake of the grade. The 14D will probably not straight grade with that gouge.
The reason to get them graded would only be for authentication.
I wouldn't bother as the cost will likely outweigh any benefit.
Welcome to the forum!
I'd leave them raw so they'll fit into an album.
The '09-S looks like RPM#1, no premium for the variety in that grade but a cool thing to note.
Sean Reynolds
"Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
I think they all look like excellent album coins. I wouldn't bother getting them certified... I'd just enjoy them as they are.
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@AlbumNerd .... Welcome aboard. Nice album coins. Probably not worth getting graded, unless you just want authentication. Save your money for buying the missing cents. Cheers, RickO
First off, welcome to the Boards. It sounds like you are pleased with your purchase regardless. The "to slab or not to slab" question gets asked a lot on the Boards. It generally comes down to what YOU want - authentication, grade, plastic protection, value determination, sell/profit, sentiment, display, etc. It's not right or wrong, it's different.
In looking through your album, one thing that caught my eye was the 1923-S. The coin is too far away in the picture to tell if it's really a BU RD coin, but an MS-63 RD 1923-S has a PCGS Price Guide value of $1,800.
Congratulations on your pickup and welcome to the Boards.
If we were all the same, the world would be an incredibly boring place.
Tommy
Wow I had no idea the 1923-s could fetch that much!
I actually have two of them. Here are some pictures. I suspect the redder one was harshly cleaned
Red
Second coin
Oops, never mind. It was worth a shot ...
If we were all the same, the world would be an incredibly boring place.
Tommy
Any opinions on the last 1 on the date of the 1931-S?
RIP Mom- 1932-2012
It's a one.
And so close.
Is it? It doesn’t match up with the positioning of that digit on any other 31-S on Coin Facts. Here’s an example:
The mint mark position is also off.
Nothing is as expensive as free money.
Look closer, oh exalted padder of the post count.
RIP Mom- 1932-2012
@P0CKETCHANGE I agree. the 1 doesn't look right. Spacing is off and it's notably different looking from the first 1.
Altered date. Very commonly done even going back to the period when they first started bringing significant premiums.
RIP Mom- 1932-2012
We need a Bob Uecker clip .... juuuuusst missed being BU ....
If we were all the same, the world would be an incredibly boring place.
Tommy
They are all genuine, the 14-D would come back with a details grade.
Leave them be.
Pete
until proven otherwise, the 31-s is bad. either fake or altered. given the look of the coin, i'd lean towards altered.
the goal here is if you can find at least one other authentic example that shows the high 2nd 1 in the date. the mm position doesn't appear to match any ones of the looked at as well.
@AlbumNerd - please don't sell/trade the 31-s just yet. thanks
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I missed it. Yep. The 1931-S has been altered. Take a close look at the placement of the second one. The entire date and mintmark of a genuine 1931-S is posted below.
Good eye, Lance.
Pete
Wow good eye folks. I'm really bummed about the 1931s. My dealers weren't even able to spot that.
I'll hold off on selling the album while I investigate further
It's still a one, oh humorless one.
It's definitely a one. I checked the other numbers, it's not a 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 0. It's a one. Whether or not it was always a one, I can't say.
No one laughs anymore around here...smh...
.
.
sometimes visual clues help us numis-humor-oriented-fold
<--- look what's behind the mask! - cool link 1/NO ~ 2/NNP ~ 3/NNC ~ 4/CF ~ 5/PG ~ 6/Cert ~ 7/NGC 7a/NGC pop~ 8/NGCF ~ 9/HA archives ~ 10/PM ~ 11/NM ~ 12/ANACS cert ~ 13/ANACS pop - report fakes 1/ACEF ~ report fakes/thefts 1/NCIS - Numi-Classes SS ~ Bass ~ Transcribed Docs NNP - clashed coins - error training - V V mm styles -
Lol. It would help if I were a penguin.
It is a one. It might always have been a one. I can't believe anyone would argue with my saying that it is a one... even if they didn't want to laugh at the joke.
For those who need more detailed pointers, it could be an added "S". It could be an Aliexpress specialty. The problem may not be the one.
It appears to be an 8 cut down to make a 3, you can see the remainder of perhaps an 8. The 3 is totally wrong as is the S.
Shame.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
Why can't it be an added S? Are all the one positions the same that year?
Aliexpress?
37 modified to a 31?
Were wheatbacks struck in the 1980's?
They ruined a perfectly good wheat reverse error...
[THIS IS A JOKE.]
For authentication purposes it may be worth a grading submission of the more valuable coins. I know a dealer who does bulk submissions of coins like that with one of PCGS' competitors for $6 a coin or so. Of course you can send in to PCGS but as you go up in costs it may undermine potential economic upside.
I agree in regards to the wheatback, but just saying what the remains look like, perhaps pareidolia. Can't think of any other number 1-5 that would work. Regardless, the 3 is so different. Maybe someone with a lot of time could find what date the S is in this location. lol (JUST A JOKE) What is up, lol or an emoji doesn't work any longer, they are not pronouns?
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
Might it be a philly 1931 with an added mintmark?
peacockcoins
The "one" is only one of the problems. The bottom of the 3 doesn't have that "hook" look.
The mintmark is of the style often seen on altered 1909-S V.D.B. Cents.
Pete
As I said, there are a lot of possibilities. But it is a one....
[IT'S A JOKE!]
Nope, 3 looks the same as on a genuine 31-S
The “3” on OP coin looks more like the “3” on the 37-S
You're right.
This one is a curiosity.
peacockcoins