Nic-A-Date Fun

Veep

Windy, rainy day here so no golf today. I grabbed six dateless buffs and a ten year old, unused bottle of Nic-A-Date and came up with a ‘21-S and ‘14-D. Maybe I should play the lotto today. The other four were ‘19-S coins.

RegistryCoin

That does sound like fun!

Scratch-.offs seem appropriate.

joeykoins

Cool!

About any '16/16's.
You do know, you don't have to Nic-a-date them to detect!
Just check the doubling of the feather.
Good Luck.
Long time ago, I found the key.
The acid brought out a 1913s typ.2
Even though, once again. You don't have to acid any '13's to detect also. The mint mark, had to be Nic-a-dated.

PerryHall

@joeykoins said:
Cool!

About any '16/16's.
You do know, you don't have to Nic-a-date them to detect!
Just check the doubling of the feather.
Good Luck.
Long time ago, I found the key.
The acid brought out a 1913s typ.2
Even though, once again. You don't have to acid any '13's to detect also. The mint mark, had to be Nic-a-dated.

What about a 1913-S Type 2 without the date? Wouldn't you need to use the acid to identify that it's a 1913 rather than another date?

joeykoins

@PerryHall said:

@joeykoins said:
Cool!

About any '16/16's.
You do know, you don't have to Nic-a-date them to detect!
Just check the doubling of the feather.
Good Luck.
Long time ago, I found the key.
The acid brought out a 1913s typ.2
Even though, once again. You don't have to acid any '13's to detect also. The mint mark, had to be Nic-a-dated.

What about a 1913-S Type 2 without the date? Wouldn't you need to use the acid to identify that it's a 1913 rather than another date?

Lol. True! You're right. Lol.
Yeah, I was referring to the typ. 1 & 2.
The easy determenation between the round mound and the flat mound.
Sorry. In my case, I had to drop acid on both areas.
Drop acid? No, I'm not talking about my younger days!

OAKSTAR

Be careful. Just don't Nic-A-Date any two feathers!!

robkool

The 18/7 s would be another one to find...

mr1931S

I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

Joey29

@mr1874 said:
I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

I don’t understand why the dateless 1916/16 is valued as being worth more. I thought the whole point in owning a overdate is to be able to see it. I personally don’t want to own an overdate I can’t see on a coin. Pointless to me to own a dateless coin for a collection. Prefer details and having a normal coin albeit be acid restored

PerryHall

The 1916/16 is easy to identify even without the date showing and the grading services will slab them as such. Since they are a doubled die coin (DDO) just look for the doubling in the feather which will show on even very well worn coins.

Joey29

@Joey29 said:

@mr1874 said:
I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

I don’t understand why the dateless 1916/16 is valued as being worth more. I thought the whole point in owning a overdate is to be able to see it. I personally don’t want to own an overdate I can’t see on a coin. Pointless to me to own a dateless coin for a collection. Prefer details and having a normal coin albeit be acid restored

If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

jesbroken

@Joey29 said:

@Joey29 said:

@mr1874 said:
I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

I don’t understand why the dateless 1916/16 is valued as being worth more. I thought the whole point in owning a overdate is to be able to see it. I personally don’t want to own an overdate I can’t see on a coin. Pointless to me to own a dateless coin for a collection. Prefer details and having a normal coin albeit be acid restored

If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

I don't necessarily disagree with you, but many, many collectors cannot afford a $3000+ coin with a barely readable date, so they take what they can get, especially if genuine and in a holder. I would think that there are many more collectors who would accept such a coin grade(without nic-o-date) to complete a collection that otherwise would never be done. JMO
Jim

joeykoins

@Joey29 said:
If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

If you don't care about appearance, just value. This is the answer!

Joey29

@joeykoins said:

@Joey29 said:
If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

If you don't care about appearance, just value. This is the answer!

True. But still wonder why collectors would pay more for a dateless coin just to straight graded.

Omegaraptor

You can ID dateless 21-S nickels without nic-a-date. You can tell by the hair braids - 1921 used a unique hub type with accented hair detail directly above the hair braid that is visible even in very low grades.

All 1920 Buffalos also used a unique hub type with a wavy ribbon, but no accented hair. 1924 also has a slight ribbon wave that is unique to that date.

Omegaraptor

@Joey29 said:

@Joey29 said:

@mr1874 said:
I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

I don’t understand why the dateless 1916/16 is valued as being worth more. I thought the whole point in owning a overdate is to be able to see it. I personally don’t want to own an overdate I can’t see on a coin. Pointless to me to own a dateless coin for a collection. Prefer details and having a normal coin albeit be acid restored

If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

It's not an overdate. It's a doubled die obverse. Two completely different things.

1916 DDO Buffalo Nickels also have extreme doubling on the ribbon and feathers that is visible clearly even in the lowest grades.

Joey29

@Omegaraptor said:

@Joey29 said:

@Joey29 said:

@mr1874 said:
I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

I don’t understand why the dateless 1916/16 is valued as being worth more. I thought the whole point in owning a overdate is to be able to see it. I personally don’t want to own an overdate I can’t see on a coin. Pointless to me to own a dateless coin for a collection. Prefer details and having a normal coin albeit be acid restored

If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

It's not an overdate. It's a doubled die obverse. Two completely different things.

1916 DDO Buffalo Nickels also have extreme doubling on the ribbon and feathers that is visible clearly even in the lowest grades.

Sorry meant doubling, still a dateless coin personally to me is like a junk coin I got in the 1960,s when getting rolls of nickels to play skeeball machine at a boardwalk arcade.

Joey29

@Joey29 said:

@Omegaraptor said:

@Joey29 said:

@Joey29 said:

@mr1874 said:
I was once advocating nic-a-dating any suspected 1916/16s. No more. No sense in cutting the value in half, or less, for this error in case you are lucky enough to have one in a group of no dates. Recently, I saw a 1918/17 D that had been nic-a-dated on both sides. I've decided that whoever did that spoiled the piece, especially by doing both sides and especially since there is a diagnostic for this error as well as the 1916/16. Leave these two alone with the nic-a-date. One of the last keys I found was a '14 D. I nic-a-dated the mintmark in addition to the date area only and got good results. I have never found a 1921 S. All of the keys, barring the two error pieces, but no '21 S.

Nic-a-daters who don't know what to look for to detect a 1916/16 or 1918/17 D, ASK or check the archives here.

I don’t understand why the dateless 1916/16 is valued as being worth more. I thought the whole point in owning a overdate is to be able to see it. I personally don’t want to own an overdate I can’t see on a coin. Pointless to me to own a dateless coin for a collection. Prefer details and having a normal coin albeit be acid restored

If you disagree with my logic please let me know why.

It's not an overdate. It's a doubled die obverse. Two completely different things.

1916 DDO Buffalo Nickels also have extreme doubling on the ribbon and feathers that is visible clearly even in the lowest grades.

ricko

Collect what you like... If enhancing the detail pleases you, do it. If you are satisfied with the diagnostics, that is fine as well. Enjoy your coins.... Cheers, RickO

TurtleCat

I’ve always wondered if nic-a-date could be applied so carefully and judiciously that it would have little impact beyond revealing just the bit that needs revealing. Kind of a targeted strike vs carpet bombing exercise?

Joey29

@TurtleCat said:
I’ve always wondered if nic-a-date could be applied so carefully and judiciously that it would have little impact beyond revealing just the bit that needs revealing. Kind of a targeted strike vs carpet bombing exercise?

Interesting question as you only technically need to see the last digit to verify either the double 6 or 8/7

PerryHall

@Joey29 said:

@TurtleCat said:
I’ve always wondered if nic-a-date could be applied so carefully and judiciously that it would have little impact beyond revealing just the bit that needs revealing. Kind of a targeted strike vs carpet bombing exercise?

Interesting question as you only technically need to see the last digit to verify either the double 6 or 8/7

As pointed out earlier in this thread, you don't need to see the last digit or any trace of the date of the 16/16 nickel. It's a DDO and the doubling of the feather will confirm that it's the 16/16 variety.

Joey29

@PerryHall said:

@Joey29 said:

@TurtleCat said:
I’ve always wondered if nic-a-date could be applied so carefully and judiciously that it would have little impact beyond revealing just the bit that needs revealing. Kind of a targeted strike vs carpet bombing exercise?

Interesting question as you only technically need to see the last digit to verify either the double 6 or 8/7

As pointed out earlier in this thread, you don't need to see the last digit or any trace of the date of the 16/16 nickel. It's a DDO and the doubling of the feather will confirm that it's the 16/16 variety.

No I agree with you. He was talking about using less nic a date so I suggest using it on the last digit instead of the whole date

Namvet69

I agree with @PerryHall that recognizing die markers is the intimate knowledge of a coins birth. Not all can attain this level of enlightenment. Peace Roy

PerryHall

@Joey29 said:

@PerryHall said:

@Joey29 said:

@TurtleCat said:
I’ve always wondered if nic-a-date could be applied so carefully and judiciously that it would have little impact beyond revealing just the bit that needs revealing. Kind of a targeted strike vs carpet bombing exercise?

Interesting question as you only technically need to see the last digit to verify either the double 6 or 8/7

As pointed out earlier in this thread, you don't need to see the last digit or any trace of the date of the 16/16 nickel. It's a DDO and the doubling of the feather will confirm that it's the 16/16 variety.

No I agree with you. He was talking about using less nic a date so I suggest using it on the last digit instead of the whole date

Don't use any Nic-A-Date on a 16/16 DDO nickel as it will diminish the value. Instead, get it slabbed and the label will show 16/16 and it will be worth a couple hundred dollars even without the date.

PerryHall

@Namvet69 said:
I agree with @PerryHall that recognizing die markers is the intimate knowledge of a coins birth. Not all can attain this level of enlightenment. Peace Roy

It's interesting that die markers can also be used to identify the 1916 Standing Liberty Quarter and the grading service will identify them as such.

Treashunt

Back in the early '60's I collected Buffalo nickels -- from change.

The album was slowly filling, but no better dates.

Then I was able to get a bottle of Nic-A-Date [I forget if from a local coin shop or mail order].

Anyway, I soon completed the old folding Whitman album.

Sadly, I was bored, and never continued to look for the dates. It spoiled it for me at the time, when you could find many, many Buffs in a roll or cash register.