@rodeo514 said:
Oh wow .that's great info and beautiful coins. That 37 isn't cleaned? Nice find..haha fleabay!!
Thanks for your help
No, the 1937 cent isn’t cleaned. It’s a Proof striking, which typically looks very different from a circulation strike/regular issue coin. There’s lots of available information about Proof coins.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@MarkW63 said:
This is funny, in a post of mine above I referenced a Nickel getting ran over by a train which was MANY years ago, a life time ago for some people.
are you sure a train ran over this? because it looks to me like someone made that to be the size of a quarter. when trains run over nickels, at least near my house, they look like this:
@rodeo514 said:
Oh wow .that's great info and beautiful coins. That 37 isn't cleaned? Nice find..haha fleabay!!
Thanks for your help
No the 37 isn't cleaned, if so it would have been ruined, It would have been labeled CLEANED, PROOF, and no number (No 65) and had nearly no value.
There is another part of the grading too, notice the letters "RB" that denotes color, "RB" is Red Brown, that lowers the value some too, for color as far as I know there is "RD" That's full red! "RB" is Red Brown meaning the color has somewhat degraded from the RED, then there is another for one that is brown, I don't have any and with out looking it up I'm thinking (???) "BR", which again lowers the value.
There is a VAST number of people on here that has a far better total understanding of all that's involved in graded coins, my collection up until the past year or say was just RAW coins, after I got a couple of the key dated Lincolns and started adding the proof I never dealt with graded coins. So, I'm still at the entry level of the understanding of them, so I can only help at that level, so expect to see some my information to be corrected by others on the forum.
I still see LOTS of 3-letter alphabets tossed around on forums that I don't know what it means.
Here is another group of Lincoln's I got pretty recently,
There are an untold amount of collectors who basically don't mess with RAW coins for their personal collection, that's not to say they would pick up on a deal for a highly valuable RAW coin from the right source, for the right price and then have it graded.
Notice the 3-letters SMS, that has nothing to do with the grade of these coins, that's a reference to "Special Mint Set"
Do an internet search for SMS Lincoln Cents, its an interesting story how these came to be.
Dig into that RED BOOK minting totals!
Do a search for Lincoln Key Dates!
The coin collecting hobby is vast in its depth,
Then there is the error coin hunters, I don't hunt them, even though I do have a genuine 55 DDO, it was a childhood bucket list coin for me, here is the one I bought.
The 55 DDO (its counter parts) is another coin that's that gets wildly exaggerated, people list these on ebay that has some tiny little doubled detailed and they think they've got a $2,000.00 coin
It seems the mint in 1955 made lots of tid bit errors on maybe millions of the 55's so these people find these even if they have a "D" mint mark and they're certain they got a gold mine.
But, what does something like the RED BOOK tell us about this coin?
Take you Nickels and search what are the key dates, go through what you have and see if you have any! if you do look at the RED to see about where its condition falls, then decide a price you would like to get out if it.
Now, go through the rest and see if you have some that condition wise they just appear to be OUTSTANDING, pull those that, self grade them as best as possible and see if you can sell for at lest a fair market price.
And do the same with the rest of your coins.
There is web site that has a general layout of coin condition to help you.
Here is one for Lincoln Cents,
I would list a coin, or buy a coin without some of the basic understanding of what the coin is, how many was minted of it, and a general idea of condition as far as, G, F, EF, UNC, & MS, (MS is Mint STATE, full luster) That information is included in the Red Book as a general guide!
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
@MarkW63 said:
This is funny, in a post of mine above I referenced a Nickel getting ran over by a train which was MANY years ago, a life time ago for some people.
are you sure a train ran over this? because it looks to me like someone made that to be the size of a quarter. when trains run over nickels, at least near my house, they look like this:
I think yours just stayed on the track for a few more wheels to run over it, mine flipped off the track and only got hit buy a few of the wheels.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
@rodeo514 said:
Same reason someone would sell one for 3000?
No, a different reason. There were 7.5 billion (with a 'b') cents produced in Philadelphia in 1981. Out of all of those, exactly one (1) has received a grade as high as MS-68 RD from NGC.
Five other examples have been graded as MS-68 RD from our host PCGS.
Given that each of those pieces is -- literally -- a one-in-a-billion rarity, a high asking price is reasonable. You're not paying for "a 1981 Lincoln cent". You're paying for the finest known, out of billions.
As discussed earlier in this thread, it's apples and oranges to compare prices for pieces that are slabbed (by NGC or PCGS) to those that aren't.
You are welcome to send coins to NGC or PCGS and pay to have them slabbed. The cost is a minimum of $25 per coin. If you think a coin should be MS-68 RD (value $3,000) and the grading company thinks it is MS-63 (value $0.01), the grading company has the final say and you have thrown a lot of money out the window.
I guess then I'll have to get some of them in holders now.still waiting for my first batch .been 4 weeks..I'm thinking of going to the show in Illinois but it's this Thurs and fri
The seller is asking $3000 - he didn’t sell it. Sellers can ask whatever they want, but that doesn’t mean they’re not asking many multiples of what the item is worth. I’ve seen countless coins that have zero extra value over face value, listed with asking prices of hundreds or thousands of dollars.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Yes then there is an ms 67 on sale for 735.00 which I think mine is nicer,so that's why I listed it as a steal for 99.00 what can I say !.guess I'll send the untouched ones out. You're really bursting my bubble! A girl gotta do what a girl gotta do!!
@rodeo514 said:
Yes then there is an ms 67 on sale for 735.00 which I think mine is nicer,so that's why I listed it as a steal for 99.00 what can I say !.guess I'll send the untouched ones out. You're really bursting my bubble! A girl gotta do what a girl gotta do!!
Yours isn’t professionally graded and there’s no reason to think that your adept at grading coins. You sound like you’re in a big hurry to make money and that’s not going to happen the way you’re going about it.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@rodeo514 said:
Yes then there is an ms 67 on sale for 735.00 which I think mine is nicer,so that's why I listed it as a steal for 99.00 what can I say !
You are welcome to think whatever you like. Yours is not nicer. Your example shows many obvious marks. It would not grade as high as MS-66. It might grade MS-65, maybe. I would expect to see a grade of MS-64 from NGC or PCGS.
There are millions of 1981 cents that are as nice or nicer than yours. The value of yours is 1 cent.
guess I'll send the untouched ones out.
Every grade from MS-60 or higher is uncirculated. You can have an untouched coin that grades MS-60. You can have an untouched coin that grades MS-70. Touching is not relevant at that level.
I'm sure that our host would be happy to take your money for grading fees. PLEASE practice grading before throwing away your money. The opinions you have shown in this thread are very different from the opinions held by NGC and PCGS. If you expect them to agree with you, you are heading for some very expensive learning opportunities...
@rodeo514 said:
guess I'll send the untouched ones out.
This seems to be a recurring theme.
"Shiny"..."untouched"...these do not necessarily mean they are high grade.
You can buy someone else's mistakes (slabbed uncirculated common coins) for only a few dollars if you look for them on ebay. If you pick up a few of those you can use them to compare to your raw coins that you think are high grade.
@rodeo514 said:
Yes then there is an ms 67 on sale for 735.00 which I think mine is nicer,so that's why I listed it as a steal for 99.00 what can I say !.guess I'll send the untouched ones out. You're really bursting my bubble! A girl gotta do what a girl gotta do!!
Hate to burst your bubble even more but even with your blurry auction photos it is easy to tell your coin would grade no higher than a 65 and that would be on a good day.
@rodeo514
Its not good for you to look at a reputable coin dealer is asking for a professionally graded coin and then say to your self, hey, mine nicer than his!
If they're a dealer and they have outstanding possible feedback, and their coin has it slabbed certificate of authenticity (professionally graded) and think you can get a high price of it when,
Your ebay feedback isn't for being a coin dealer, its just for good description, prompt shipping, good communication, just don't cut it in the world of COINS! and then your coins are RAW!
Everybody that sells coins on ebay are NOT DEALERS!,
Here is the problem (one problem) I see for you.
If your not a collector, if you've never had an interest in coins, if you've got a blank slate of coin knowledge and you've come across a batch of coins and your not interested them, if you didn't acquire out of a true interest in the hobby, but rather you see this batch of coin as a way to just add something to your ebay sells for CASH and lots of it, then the learning curve it would take to truly sell it a right fashion may not be worth the time in the research!
I see it all the time where people will have say a 55 Lincoln cent and there is some little something that to them makes it a genuine DDO (Double Die Obverse) and they will create a brand new fleabay account with 0 feedback and ask $1,500.00 for the coin, in their mind's eye there is as nice as most of what they've seen, when in reality they don't really know what they're looking at!
I would say that most of us on here had and interest in coins thinking they were something cool about them, so we picked up on the hobby from childhood, many have come to make a business out of it, some here actually work in the professional side of the hobby.
High End examples of extremely rare coins are really just that, "Extremely Rare" and reside for the most part among the far more wealthy than me for sure.
Take my 1937 Proof-65 that same coin in say a 67 RB may go for near double what I paid for my proof 65, but to you or me it may may very hard for us to see the difference, then take a 1937 that's a proof-70 RD and the price on it would break the bank for a LOT OF US what a scary price it would have, that's TOP GRADE!
So, yes! you'll see high prices on coins but there is several reasons for it!
Someone who thinks they have a cash cow, and don't know any better!
A fleabay or isty scammer (TOTAL CON) with full intent of ripping off as many people as possible! and then,
A truly good example of a rare coin or an extremely HIGH grade of a coin, MS-69, PF-70 this professional grades can take a somewhat common coin and put it into a bit of a rare class, but you and I can self grade for our collection purpose, but buyers of these coins isn't going to pay us much attention, they want (expect) the grade to be authenticated to pay the premium price for them for their own collection.
Also, something else to keep in mind, yes! there is a Red Book, but there is also a Blue Book.
The Red Book price guidelines is based on Retail Prices, that's more along the lines of a dealer selling price!
The Blue Book on the other hand is based on wholesale buying prices, what you may somewhat expect a dealer to pay you for your coin.
Now, the good side of ebay if done right does put your coins out there for the general public, meaning its possible to get more than Blue Book out of a said coin.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
I learned a lot today folks. Hopefully the membership to pcgs pays me back something. At least I'm trying to take steps to better understand what I have b before I treat them like trash. One man's treasure...looking for that needle I the haystack with my microscope and tweezers has been tedious but rewarding .I'm a self educated, easily distracted hard working fool.
Thanks for all the tips.
the 81 that was shown for 84.00 ? If I sent mine to be graded and ended up profitable with 84.00 Id be ok with that. You misunderstood. I get it-- they are all worthless,or wholesale until authenticated and proven otherwise. Just one last riddle me this. Why might I have all of these beautiul copper splattered pennies? Do you think they have any grading potential? Hopefully not too blurry this time.
@rodeo514 said:
the 81 that was shown for 84.00 ? If I sent mine to be graded and ended up profitable with 84.00 Id be ok with that. You misunderstood. I get it-- they are all worthless,or wholesale until authenticated and proven otherwise. Just one last riddle me this. Why might I have all of these beautiul copper splattered pennies? Do you think they have any grading potential? Hopefully not too blurry this time.
Posters have already said that yours didn’t look as if it would grade better than 65, so $84 is a pipe dream. Plus, you’d probably be out $50+ for grading and postage.
I’ve seen nothing of any extra value in the coins you’ve posted. In the long run, it would be healthy for you if your bubble were to burst. I have nothing else to say other than best of luck.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Well mark I thought I was here interested in the coin community,not to get beat up by the old codgers who have to be snobby and condescending .I hope you get a healthy burst in your old bubble one day.best of luck to you as well.
@rodeo514 said:
Just one last riddle me this. Why might I have all of these beautiul copper splattered pennies? Do you think they have any grading potential?
The copper splattered look you have is the copper plating over the zinc core blistering or bubbling. This was the transition year where they made both solid copper cents and copper plated zinc cents. This would be the latter. Nice photo by the way.
Lets take a break and watch a 11 minute video titled "Most Expensive Gold Coin In The World, Is Also Illegal to Own"
This hobby is extremely VAST, and if interested the hobby its dept of internet research is nearly endless.
In that search there is a bottomless pit of misinformation, but if you stay within the realm of credible sources you'll get good information. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVUJ61UGuRQ
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
@rodeo514 said:
Just one last riddle me this. Why might I have all of these beautiul copper splattered pennies? Do you think they have any grading potential?
The copper splattered look you have is the copper plating over the zinc core blistering or bubbling. This was the transition year where they made both solid copper cents and copper plated zinc cents. This would be the latter. Nice photo by the way.
There is this kid who plays guitar that has also did this song and in the lyrics its says "A Wise Man Never Told Me Any Lies"
Mark Feld isn't known for long winded post, like many others he has something to say and in most cases done with few words, but he is one that I pay attention (listen) to. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsG_1GF79DI
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
It sounds like you've already sent some coins to PCGS. If that is the case, if they come back graded lower than you expected the challenge.will then be to understand why you were off in your estimates. That will be a good learning experience.
Chasing modern coins in super high grades (called "grade rarities" because the high grade is rare, but the coins are otherwise common) is an extremely difficult task.
And just so you know, many of us who have commented are not necessarily grading experts. We just know how so very difficult it is to find these coins in ultra high grades.
You have to be careful about "Condition Rarity". When you see very high prices listed for common coins you are generally looking at condition rarity. There are a number of people that want the best of the best and will pay for it. There are others that want a nice top coin for the online registry set game and need a slabbed common date coin for that set. Most coinage will be minted and issued at the MS64 give or take a couple points range (MS62-MS66). If you search through a lot of uncirculated coins and pick out the best of the best you will probably have MS66. It takes a pretty nice coin to make MS67 and percentage wise there are not that many out there.
Compare the PCGS price guide with the PCGS population report and you will see that price is directly tied to population (condition rarity and demand). Also keep in mind that PCGS price guide is for PCGS slabbed coins and not raw ungraded coins. If you look in your redbook you will see that the value of a similar ungraded raw MS63 is well under a dollar versus a few dollars on the PCGS guide (below). Remember, it costs a person about $30 minimum to put that 20 cent penny into a slab to be worth 5 bucks.
The fastest way to learn is to blow a couple hundred dollars in submission fees to find out that not all uncirculated coins are high grade. That said, people do make money knowing how to sort and grade and submit. Good luck.
@rodeo514
Thank about your statement about all these splattered copper cents you have, having ALL these means it there not RARE! its not likely to just run across a bucket of rare coins.
There isn't anything at the mint that makes them a mint error, the metal that is used for coins is bought by the mint on large rolls, meaning the problem isn't on the minting of the coil, its more in the processing of the metal.
I think your still seeing things that are odd and so it has to be worth a fortune.
Its not what you and I see as odd or different that makes a coin valuable, its more about certain things.
I have a really nice 55-D Lincoln cent and it has at the time what I thought was a double die mint mark, well, turns out that these are called "RPM" (Re=Punched Mint Mark) the coin still has a lot of it luster, its a 55, well at best it may make the $5.00 range, I except that, I included into my collection and it is what it is.
What I think is valuable and what is actually valuable doesn't always line up.
Here is my maybe $5.00 1955-D RPM.
And to note! a crash cross in this Numismatic world isn't without passing through the school of hard knocks as well
I'm under the impression that if I was to send this coin in for grading it would come back at best as genuine, maybe EF to AU and labeled "Environmental Damage" due to the scratch on the obverse, so I would have to put a good bit of money in the coin just to get it back and it still be worth maybe $5.00!
And make no mistake LOTS of people have sent coins in to get graded and got them back in a bag marked "Non Genuine" and this has already been stated, they send a coin in that they were absolutely sure would make a 67 to 69 details grade, and got back a 63 and madder than he** about it.
I've heard of people so unhappy with the grading results that they cracked the newly graded coin out of the slab and set it off to another grading service hoping for it to somehow make a higher grade.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
@MarkW63 said:
There is this kid who plays guitar that has also did this song and in the lyrics its says "A Wise Man Never Told Me Any Lies"
Mark Feld isn't known for long winded post, like many others he has something to say and in most cases done with few words, but he is one that I pay attention (listen) to. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsG_1GF79DI
Understood.Just saw Father Stu.puts it all in perspective.all good , thanks
@JBK said:
It sounds like you've already sent some coins to PCGS. If that is the case, if they come back graded lower than you expected the challenge.will then be to understand why you were off in your estimates. That will be a good learning experience.
Chasing modern coins in super high grades (called "grade rarities" because the high grade is rare, but the coins are otherwise common) is an extremely difficult task.
And just so you know, many of us who have commented are not necessarily grading experts. We just know how so very difficult it is to find these coins in ultra high grades.
Thanks..it will definitely help when I get them back.ill keep you posted!
@Batman23 said:
You have to be careful about "Condition Rarity". When you see very high prices listed for common coins you are generally looking at condition rarity. There are a number of people that want the best of the best and will pay for it. There are others that want a nice top coin for the online registry set game and need a slabbed common date coin for that set. Most coinage will be minted and issued at the MS64 give or take a couple points range (MS62-MS66). If you search through a lot of uncirculated coins and pick out the best of the best you will probably have MS66. It takes a pretty nice coin to make MS67 and percentage wise there are not that many out there.
Compare the PCGS price guide with the PCGS population report and you will see that price is directly tied to population (condition rarity and demand). Also keep in mind that PCGS price guide is for PCGS slabbed coins and not raw ungraded coins. If you look in your redbook you will see that the value of a similar ungraded raw MS63 is well under a dollar versus a few dollars on the PCGS guide (below). Remember, it costs a person about $30 minimum to put that 20 cent penny into a slab to be worth 5 bucks.
The fastest way to learn is to blow a couple hundred dollars in submission fees to find out that not all uncirculated coins are high grade. That said, people do make money knowing how to sort and grade and submit. Good luck.
Thank you . I'm reading your post and taking it all in..I'm taking my time because I don't want to be on either side of a scam..I notice the population reports..what is amazing is that a "modern coin" could be 50 years old.
Kind of reminds me of my families ferrari collection.The old car guys are dying off,now it's all gadgets..more young people need to appreciate the skills.Pretty soon modern will be the new vintage.!
@MarkW63 said: @rodeo514
Thank about your statement about all these splattered copper cents you have, having ALL these means it there not RARE! its not likely to just run across a bucket of rare coins.
There isn't anything at the mint that makes them a mint error, the metal that is used for coins is bought by the mint on large rolls, meaning the problem isn't on the minting of the coil, its more in the processing of the metal.
I think your still seeing things that are odd and so it has to be worth a fortune.
Its not what you and I see as odd or different that makes a coin valuable, its more about certain things.
I have a really nice 55-D Lincoln cent and it has at the time what I thought was a double die mint mark, well, turns out that these are called "RPM" (Re=Punched Mint Mark) the coin still has a lot of it luster, its a 55, well at best it may make the $5.00 range, I except that, I included into my collection and it is what it is.
What I think is valuable and what is actually valuable doesn't always line up.
Here is my maybe $5.00 1955-D RPM.
And to note! a crash cross in this Numismatic world isn't without passing through the school of hard knocks as well
I'm under the impression that if I was to send this coin in for grading it would come back at best as genuine, maybe EF to AU and labeled "Environmental Damage" due to the scratch on the obverse, so I would have to put a good bit of money in the coin just to get it back and it still be worth maybe $5.00!
And make no mistake LOTS of people have sent coins in to get graded and got them back in a bag marked "Non Genuine" and this has already been stated, they send a coin in that they were absolutely sure would make a 67 to 69 details grade, and got back a 63 and madder than he** about it.
I've heard of people so unhappy with the grading results that they cracked the newly graded coin out of the slab and set it off to another grading service hoping for it to somehow make a higher grade.
Do RPMS hold any value? I see dir chips ,too.is this what people are chasing after? Or does that devalue the coin.
The only one I can think of and that's only if its considered an actual RPM is one of the 1943 Steel Cents.
Now there are some older coins that has like a D over and S, and they seem to be pretty valuable.
But I'm not aware of any other RPM's that's worth much money, keep in mind, that $5.00 for one penny is a 500X mark up!
I'm not one to that's into error coins, but I know enough that many of the ebay listings that claim some tiny little thing that they feel is an error and throw on their high price tag doesn't mean its a sought after error coin, it just means that a lot of people are just calling things what they're not and hoping to get rich from it.
I've seen listings that state the "L" in LIBERTY to close to the rim, VERY RARE! its not very RARE I've seen this on many Lincoln Cents, its not an error, its just a .010" out of position, which is common.
Floating roof, that's not really an error either, but if you look on ebay they want it to be.
There does seem to be some legitimacy to the close the AM on Lincoln cents, but on certain years its normal, so wide AM is the issue.
Here is a little chart that list some information about the close & wide AM, and remember, I'm not one of those people that search for error coins, its just not my thing.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
@rodeo514 said:
Well mark I thought I was here interested in the coin community,not to get beat up by the old codgers who have to be snobby and condescending .I hope you get a healthy burst in your old bubble one day.best of luck to you as well.
Sounds like our precious newbie is a troll and/or an alt.
@rodeo514 said:
Well mark I thought I was here interested in the coin community,not to get beat up by the old codgers who have to be snobby and condescending .I hope you get a healthy burst in your old bubble one day.best of luck to you as well.
Sounds like our precious newbie is a troll and/or an alt.
Im not a troll buddy. I was simply defending myself with the tone that was given. No need to jump in ✌️
Comments
Jay that's way over my head with. The acronyms.Im in the finance world and we talk in riddles too, I just don't know all the lingo yet. 🙄
No, the 1937 cent isn’t cleaned. It’s a Proof striking, which typically looks very different from a circulation strike/regular issue coin. There’s lots of available information about Proof coins.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
are you sure a train ran over this? because it looks to me like someone made that to be the size of a quarter. when trains run over nickels, at least near my house, they look like this:
No the 37 isn't cleaned, if so it would have been ruined, It would have been labeled CLEANED, PROOF, and no number (No 65) and had nearly no value.
There is another part of the grading too, notice the letters "RB" that denotes color, "RB" is Red Brown, that lowers the value some too, for color as far as I know there is "RD" That's full red! "RB" is Red Brown meaning the color has somewhat degraded from the RED, then there is another for one that is brown, I don't have any and with out looking it up I'm thinking (???) "BR", which again lowers the value.
There is a VAST number of people on here that has a far better total understanding of all that's involved in graded coins, my collection up until the past year or say was just RAW coins, after I got a couple of the key dated Lincolns and started adding the proof I never dealt with graded coins. So, I'm still at the entry level of the understanding of them, so I can only help at that level, so expect to see some my information to be corrected by others on the forum.
I still see LOTS of 3-letter alphabets tossed around on forums that I don't know what it means.
Here is another group of Lincoln's I got pretty recently,
There are an untold amount of collectors who basically don't mess with RAW coins for their personal collection, that's not to say they would pick up on a deal for a highly valuable RAW coin from the right source, for the right price and then have it graded.
Notice the 3-letters SMS, that has nothing to do with the grade of these coins, that's a reference to "Special Mint Set"
Do an internet search for SMS Lincoln Cents, its an interesting story how these came to be.
Dig into that RED BOOK minting totals!
Do a search for Lincoln Key Dates!
The coin collecting hobby is vast in its depth,
Then there is the error coin hunters, I don't hunt them, even though I do have a genuine 55 DDO, it was a childhood bucket list coin for me, here is the one I bought.
The 55 DDO (its counter parts) is another coin that's that gets wildly exaggerated, people list these on ebay that has some tiny little doubled detailed and they think they've got a $2,000.00 coin
It seems the mint in 1955 made lots of tid bit errors on maybe millions of the 55's so these people find these even if they have a "D" mint mark and they're certain they got a gold mine.
But, what does something like the RED BOOK tell us about this coin?
Take you Nickels and search what are the key dates, go through what you have and see if you have any! if you do look at the RED to see about where its condition falls, then decide a price you would like to get out if it.
Now, go through the rest and see if you have some that condition wise they just appear to be OUTSTANDING, pull those that, self grade them as best as possible and see if you can sell for at lest a fair market price.
And do the same with the rest of your coins.
There is web site that has a general layout of coin condition to help you.
Here is one for Lincoln Cents,
http://lincolncentresource.com/Lincoln_Cent_Grading_Guide.html
I would list a coin, or buy a coin without some of the basic understanding of what the coin is, how many was minted of it, and a general idea of condition as far as, G, F, EF, UNC, & MS, (MS is Mint STATE, full luster) That information is included in the Red Book as a general guide!
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
Mark what do you think of this? I see some high grade for 2-3 k
https://www.ebay.com/itm/325160240050?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=AX5S58IRTkK&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=AX5S58IRTkK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
You can buy a whole roll of 1981 uncirculated cents for $8.98 why would anyone pay you $99 for 1 cent?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165247307721
Same reason someone would sell one for 3000?🤷♀️ check it out
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-1C-RD-Lincoln-Memorial-One-Cent-NGC-MS68RD-6290054-004-/353988417840?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Then that the person selling this one has over 19000 feedback so I think it's a legit seller offering a 1981 for $3000
Theirs is graded yours is not, until it is in a holder it's not worth that much.
Even when it is in a holder doesn't mean it will sell for that much.
The PCGS website show an auction record of $1,058 • MS67+ • 04-12-2016 • Heritage Auctions for this date & mint.
I think yours just stayed on the track for a few more wheels to run over it, mine flipped off the track and only got hit buy a few of the wheels.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
No, a different reason. There were 7.5 billion (with a 'b') cents produced in Philadelphia in 1981. Out of all of those, exactly one (1) has received a grade as high as MS-68 RD from NGC.
Five other examples have been graded as MS-68 RD from our host PCGS.
Given that each of those pieces is -- literally -- a one-in-a-billion rarity, a high asking price is reasonable. You're not paying for "a 1981 Lincoln cent". You're paying for the finest known, out of billions.
As discussed earlier in this thread, it's apples and oranges to compare prices for pieces that are slabbed (by NGC or PCGS) to those that aren't.
You are welcome to send coins to NGC or PCGS and pay to have them slabbed. The cost is a minimum of $25 per coin. If you think a coin should be MS-68 RD (value $3,000) and the grading company thinks it is MS-63 (value $0.01), the grading company has the final say and you have thrown a lot of money out the window.
I guess then I'll have to get some of them in holders now.still waiting for my first batch .been 4 weeks..I'm thinking of going to the show in Illinois but it's this Thurs and fri
Ugh .. what a racket
The seller is asking $3000 - he didn’t sell it. Sellers can ask whatever they want, but that doesn’t mean they’re not asking many multiples of what the item is worth. I’ve seen countless coins that have zero extra value over face value, listed with asking prices of hundreds or thousands of dollars.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Yes then there is an ms 67 on sale for 735.00 which I think mine is nicer,so that's why I listed it as a steal for 99.00 what can I say !.guess I'll send the untouched ones out. You're really bursting my bubble! A girl gotta do what a girl gotta do!!
As I said previously, asking prices aren’t necessarily relevant. Here’s an actual sale at $84, compared to the $735 asking price you mentioned. https://coins.ha.com/itm/lincoln-cents/small-cents/1981-1c-ms67-red-pcgs-pcgs-population-96-2-ngc-census-45-1-cdn-115-whsle-bid-for-problem-free-ngc-pcgs-ms67/a/131925-25206.s?ic4=ListView-ShortDescription-071515
Quit focusing on what sellers are asking - that’s going to get you in trouble.
Yours isn’t professionally graded and there’s no reason to think that your adept at grading coins. You sound like you’re in a big hurry to make money and that’s not going to happen the way you’re going about it.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
You are welcome to think whatever you like. Yours is not nicer. Your example shows many obvious marks. It would not grade as high as MS-66. It might grade MS-65, maybe. I would expect to see a grade of MS-64 from NGC or PCGS.
There are millions of 1981 cents that are as nice or nicer than yours. The value of yours is 1 cent.
Every grade from MS-60 or higher is uncirculated. You can have an untouched coin that grades MS-60. You can have an untouched coin that grades MS-70. Touching is not relevant at that level.
I'm sure that our host would be happy to take your money for grading fees. PLEASE practice grading before throwing away your money. The opinions you have shown in this thread are very different from the opinions held by NGC and PCGS. If you expect them to agree with you, you are heading for some very expensive learning opportunities...
This seems to be a recurring theme.
"Shiny"..."untouched"...these do not necessarily mean they are high grade.
You can buy someone else's mistakes (slabbed uncirculated common coins) for only a few dollars if you look for them on ebay. If you pick up a few of those you can use them to compare to your raw coins that you think are high grade.
Hate to burst your bubble even more but even with your blurry auction photos it is easy to tell your coin would grade no higher than a 65 and that would be on a good day.
@rodeo514
Its not good for you to look at a reputable coin dealer is asking for a professionally graded coin and then say to your self, hey, mine nicer than his!
If they're a dealer and they have outstanding possible feedback, and their coin has it slabbed certificate of authenticity (professionally graded) and think you can get a high price of it when,
Your ebay feedback isn't for being a coin dealer, its just for good description, prompt shipping, good communication, just don't cut it in the world of COINS! and then your coins are RAW!
Everybody that sells coins on ebay are NOT DEALERS!,
Here is the problem (one problem) I see for you.
If your not a collector, if you've never had an interest in coins, if you've got a blank slate of coin knowledge and you've come across a batch of coins and your not interested them, if you didn't acquire out of a true interest in the hobby, but rather you see this batch of coin as a way to just add something to your ebay sells for CASH and lots of it, then the learning curve it would take to truly sell it a right fashion may not be worth the time in the research!
I see it all the time where people will have say a 55 Lincoln cent and there is some little something that to them makes it a genuine DDO (Double Die Obverse) and they will create a brand new fleabay account with 0 feedback and ask $1,500.00 for the coin, in their mind's eye there is as nice as most of what they've seen, when in reality they don't really know what they're looking at!
I would say that most of us on here had and interest in coins thinking they were something cool about them, so we picked up on the hobby from childhood, many have come to make a business out of it, some here actually work in the professional side of the hobby.
High End examples of extremely rare coins are really just that, "Extremely Rare" and reside for the most part among the far more wealthy than me for sure.
Take my 1937 Proof-65 that same coin in say a 67 RB may go for near double what I paid for my proof 65, but to you or me it may may very hard for us to see the difference, then take a 1937 that's a proof-70 RD and the price on it would break the bank for a LOT OF US what a scary price it would have, that's TOP GRADE!
So, yes! you'll see high prices on coins but there is several reasons for it!
Someone who thinks they have a cash cow, and don't know any better!
A fleabay or isty scammer (TOTAL CON) with full intent of ripping off as many people as possible! and then,
A truly good example of a rare coin or an extremely HIGH grade of a coin, MS-69, PF-70 this professional grades can take a somewhat common coin and put it into a bit of a rare class, but you and I can self grade for our collection purpose, but buyers of these coins isn't going to pay us much attention, they want (expect) the grade to be authenticated to pay the premium price for them for their own collection.
Also, something else to keep in mind, yes! there is a Red Book, but there is also a Blue Book.
The Red Book price guidelines is based on Retail Prices, that's more along the lines of a dealer selling price!
The Blue Book on the other hand is based on wholesale buying prices, what you may somewhat expect a dealer to pay you for your coin.
Now, the good side of ebay if done right does put your coins out there for the general public, meaning its possible to get more than Blue Book out of a said coin.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
PMD.
USN & USAF retired 1971-1993
Successful Transactions with more than 100 Members
I learned a lot today folks. Hopefully the membership to pcgs pays me back something. At least I'm trying to take steps to better understand what I have b before I treat them like trash. One man's treasure...looking for that needle I the haystack with my microscope and tweezers has been tedious but rewarding .I'm a self educated, easily distracted hard working fool.
Thanks for all the tips.
I'd be good with 115.00 for that
That doesn’t sound like you’ve been listening and learning.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
the 81 that was shown for 84.00 ? If I sent mine to be graded and ended up profitable with 84.00 Id be ok with that. You misunderstood. I get it-- they are all worthless,or wholesale until authenticated and proven otherwise. Just one last riddle me this. Why might I have all of these beautiul copper splattered pennies? Do you think they have any grading potential? Hopefully not too blurry this time.
say something positive. Im about to burst!
Posters have already said that yours didn’t look as if it would grade better than 65, so $84 is a pipe dream. Plus, you’d probably be out $50+ for grading and postage.
I’ve seen nothing of any extra value in the coins you’ve posted. In the long run, it would be healthy for you if your bubble were to burst. I have nothing else to say other than best of luck.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Well mark I thought I was here interested in the coin community,not to get beat up by the old codgers who have to be snobby and condescending .I hope you get a healthy burst in your old bubble one day.best of luck to you as well.
The copper splattered look you have is the copper plating over the zinc core blistering or bubbling. This was the transition year where they made both solid copper cents and copper plated zinc cents. This would be the latter. Nice photo by the way.
Lets take a break and watch a 11 minute video titled "Most Expensive Gold Coin In The World, Is Also Illegal to Own"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVUJ61UGuRQ
This hobby is extremely VAST, and if interested the hobby its dept of internet research is nearly endless.
In that search there is a bottomless pit of misinformation, but if you stay within the realm of credible sources you'll get good information.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
Thank you ,I appreciate it
There is this kid who plays guitar that has also did this song and in the lyrics its says "A Wise Man Never Told Me Any Lies"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsG_1GF79DI
Mark Feld isn't known for long winded post, like many others he has something to say and in most cases done with few words, but he is one that I pay attention (listen) to.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
It sounds like you've already sent some coins to PCGS. If that is the case, if they come back graded lower than you expected the challenge.will then be to understand why you were off in your estimates. That will be a good learning experience.
Chasing modern coins in super high grades (called "grade rarities" because the high grade is rare, but the coins are otherwise common) is an extremely difficult task.
And just so you know, many of us who have commented are not necessarily grading experts. We just know how so very difficult it is to find these coins in ultra high grades.
You have to be careful about "Condition Rarity". When you see very high prices listed for common coins you are generally looking at condition rarity. There are a number of people that want the best of the best and will pay for it. There are others that want a nice top coin for the online registry set game and need a slabbed common date coin for that set. Most coinage will be minted and issued at the MS64 give or take a couple points range (MS62-MS66). If you search through a lot of uncirculated coins and pick out the best of the best you will probably have MS66. It takes a pretty nice coin to make MS67 and percentage wise there are not that many out there.
Compare the PCGS price guide with the PCGS population report and you will see that price is directly tied to population (condition rarity and demand). Also keep in mind that PCGS price guide is for PCGS slabbed coins and not raw ungraded coins. If you look in your redbook you will see that the value of a similar ungraded raw MS63 is well under a dollar versus a few dollars on the PCGS guide (below). Remember, it costs a person about $30 minimum to put that 20 cent penny into a slab to be worth 5 bucks.
The fastest way to learn is to blow a couple hundred dollars in submission fees to find out that not all uncirculated coins are high grade. That said, people do make money knowing how to sort and grade and submit. Good luck.
@rodeo514
Thank about your statement about all these splattered copper cents you have, having ALL these means it there not RARE! its not likely to just run across a bucket of rare coins.
There isn't anything at the mint that makes them a mint error, the metal that is used for coins is bought by the mint on large rolls, meaning the problem isn't on the minting of the coil, its more in the processing of the metal.
I think your still seeing things that are odd and so it has to be worth a fortune.
Its not what you and I see as odd or different that makes a coin valuable, its more about certain things.
I have a really nice 55-D Lincoln cent and it has at the time what I thought was a double die mint mark, well, turns out that these are called "RPM" (Re=Punched Mint Mark) the coin still has a lot of it luster, its a 55, well at best it may make the $5.00 range, I except that, I included into my collection and it is what it is.
What I think is valuable and what is actually valuable doesn't always line up.
Here is my maybe $5.00 1955-D RPM.
And to note! a crash cross in this Numismatic world isn't without passing through the school of hard knocks as well
I'm under the impression that if I was to send this coin in for grading it would come back at best as genuine, maybe EF to AU and labeled "Environmental Damage" due to the scratch on the obverse, so I would have to put a good bit of money in the coin just to get it back and it still be worth maybe $5.00!
And make no mistake LOTS of people have sent coins in to get graded and got them back in a bag marked "Non Genuine" and this has already been stated, they send a coin in that they were absolutely sure would make a 67 to 69 details grade, and got back a 63 and madder than he** about it.
I've heard of people so unhappy with the grading results that they cracked the newly graded coin out of the slab and set it off to another grading service hoping for it to somehow make a higher grade.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
Understood.Just saw Father Stu.puts it all in perspective.all good , thanks
Thanks..it will definitely help when I get them back.ill keep you posted!
Thank you . I'm reading your post and taking it all in..I'm taking my time because I don't want to be on either side of a scam..I notice the population reports..what is amazing is that a "modern coin" could be 50 years old.
Kind of reminds me of my families ferrari collection.The old car guys are dying off,now it's all gadgets..more young people need to appreciate the skills.Pretty soon modern will be the new vintage.!
Do RPMS hold any value? I see dir chips ,too.is this what people are chasing after? Or does that devalue the coin.
The only one I can think of and that's only if its considered an actual RPM is one of the 1943 Steel Cents.
Now there are some older coins that has like a D over and S, and they seem to be pretty valuable.
But I'm not aware of any other RPM's that's worth much money, keep in mind, that $5.00 for one penny is a 500X mark up!
I'm not one to that's into error coins, but I know enough that many of the ebay listings that claim some tiny little thing that they feel is an error and throw on their high price tag doesn't mean its a sought after error coin, it just means that a lot of people are just calling things what they're not and hoping to get rich from it.
I've seen listings that state the "L" in LIBERTY to close to the rim, VERY RARE! its not very RARE I've seen this on many Lincoln Cents, its not an error, its just a .010" out of position, which is common.
Floating roof, that's not really an error either, but if you look on ebay they want it to be.
There does seem to be some legitimacy to the close the AM on Lincoln cents, but on certain years its normal, so wide AM is the issue.
Here is a little chart that list some information about the close & wide AM, and remember, I'm not one of those people that search for error coins, its just not my thing.
"I Prefer Dangerous Freedom Over Peaceful Slavery"
Thomas Jefferson!
Is this one of the rare Crop Circle Error Quarters
Lafayette Grading Set
Sounds like our precious newbie is a troll and/or an alt.
Im not a troll buddy. I was simply defending myself with the tone that was given. No need to jump in ✌️
Next question.What's the best way to deal with corrossion.. ! I appreciate any assistance. Mostly i hear not to touch it.
Not worth dealing with that one, unless you want to practice.
It's a damaged common cent.
Thanks . That's a bummer