How do you value eye appeal amongst PSA graded cards

cefy1

As someone who is willing to pay a premium on eye appeal I am wondering if anyone has any formula or methodology in terms of bidding on an item. I have started to look at some vintage cards where my price range can vary between psa 3 - psa 6, but I have come across a lot of psa 3's that look like 5's and so on.

For that type of example would you be willing to pay the psa 5 price? or somewhere in between or even above. Also, do you maybe look at strictly a percentage over the psa 3 price if it is something widely traded. I'm sure there some varying opinions and I interested in learning how people make those decisions. I also understand some consideration needs to be made for the overall price of the card i.e. a $1,500 card vs say a $200 card and how you might view that.

Thanks for any input.

JoeBanzai

Recently, I have been picking up some cheap(er) PSA 9's as long as they're well centered, especially side to side.

Not sure what to respond on the PSA 3-5 range. Perhaps if you give a more specific example, I can give you a better response. Centering always comes into play, if it's a lower grade card, I expect corner issues, so I look for a well centered 3 or 5.

Generally I avoid anything below a 7. I don't really collect expensive cards, but if I was to collect Mantle, I would have to focus on low grade cards because of the expense.

1951WheatiesPremium

It’s very cliche but I think you buy the card, not the holder, as a collector.

As a card flipper or investor, it seems like you must consider the card and the flip itself.

Personally, I’m mostly a collector (occasionally sell, usually to buy something 😂) but I really think a nice looking card stands out in any holder and I love when people wonder why it’s not graded higher.

These are a few of my items where I think that applies…

…I also like buying ungraded cards, too, and like the way you can evaluate them in hand even the old card saver…

1951WheatiesPremium

@cefy1 said:
As someone who is willing to pay a premium on eye appeal I am wondering if anyone has any formula or methodology in terms of bidding on an item. I have started to look at some vintage cards where my price range can vary between psa 3 - psa 6, but I have come across a lot of psa 3's that look like 5's and so on.

For that type of example would you be willing to pay the psa 5 price? or somewhere in between or even above. Also, do you maybe look at strictly a percentage over the psa 3 price if it is something widely traded. I'm sure there some varying opinions and I interested in learning how people make those decisions. I also understand some consideration needs to be made for the overall price of the card i.e. a $1,500 card vs say a $200 card and how you might view that.

Thanks for any input.

I offered most of what I wanted above but also wanted to add this: decide what attributes are important to you very clearly.

For me it’s ordered priorities of price, then centering, then corners, no creases. As @JoeBanzai mentioned, much depends on whom you collect, too. I collect Mickey Mantle and I can’t afford high grade graded ones so I seek out nice looking lower and mid grade ones that retain solid eye appeal (again, often raw) that make my eyes happy, even if breaking the no creases rule occasionally :

Still, they’re pretty cards to me and they make me happy. 😉

PaulMaul

@1951WheatiesPremium said:

I offered most of what I wanted above but also wanted to add this: decide what attributes are important to you very clearly.

For me it’s ordered priorities of price, then centering, then corners, no creases. As @JoeBanzai mentioned, much depends on whom you collect, too. I collect Mickey Mantle and I can’t afford high grade graded ones so I seek out nice looking lower and mid grade ones that retain solid eye appeal (again, often raw) that make my eyes happy, even if breaking the no creases rule occasionally.

That’s a great point. I personally do not value centering as much as many here, and I am sometimes able to get ungraded commons that are pretty much perfect except for 65/35 centering fairly cheaply. Eye appeal is in the eye of the beholder.

1951WheatiesPremium

@PaulMaul said:

@1951WheatiesPremium said:

I offered most of what I wanted above but also wanted to add this: decide what attributes are important to you very clearly.

For me it’s ordered priorities of price, then centering, then corners, no creases. As @JoeBanzai mentioned, much depends on whom you collect, too. I collect Mickey Mantle and I can’t afford high grade graded ones so I seek out nice looking lower and mid grade ones that retain solid eye appeal (again, often raw) that make my eyes happy, even if breaking the no creases rule occasionally.

That’s a great point. I personally do not value centering as much as many here, and I am sometimes able to get ungraded commons that are pretty much perfect except for 65/35 centering fairly cheaply. Eye appeal is in the eye of the beholder.

And that ‘57 above is an example where price trumped all. It’s a very nice looking card despite the grade potential being fairly limited.

miwlvrn

As for eye appeal goes, I think the biggest variance is with PSA 1 and PSA 2. With a 1, you can have a card that is Mint aside from having a pinhole that is tough to see. With PSA 2, I have several cards that look like they should be graded in the 8 to 9 range but they supposedly have a spot of album glue or similar on back. With these specific examples I'm thinking of, I cannot even find anything on back with loup or magnification/zoom, to the point where it might even be another case of a mech error on the grade portion of the labels. Either way, they are a far cry from what a typical low grade card looks like in a similar holder.

KendallCat

First thing I look for above all else is centering. Out the gate that is the one thing IMO that enhances eye appeal. After that it is a mix of corners, clarity/focus, color… I try to find cards that when people look at them they say “why is that only a 5 or a 6?” Once I started doing that I found I saved money but was able to find cards that had eye appeal, and with the saved $$ I could buy more cards. These are a few of my favorites over the years I have picked up and have saved me money going after 8/8.5’s and higher.

Richeysd1976

Being married with a wife that doesn't understand cards, eye appeal goes out the window so I go with the cheapest option 1st.

TMad

Such a good thread! I agree with everything yall are saying. I'd def pay a premium but in the end it would need to be a value for me ie I'm not paying psa 7 prices on a psa 5 card. I may pay a grade higher but probably not 2 grades higher.

halosfan

That Cobb is crazy nice

hyperchipper09

Matters greatly, but no 2 collectors eye appeal is the same...

Both mine, one looks better. OCD Bells be ringing.

I chose this for the rough cut / classic OPC look. Centering doesn't bother me with this one

eye appeal 100% sold me on these:

KendallCat

@TMad said:
Such a good thread! I agree with everything yall are saying. I'd def pay a premium but in the end it would need to be a value for me ie I'm not paying psa 7 prices on a psa 5 card. I may pay a grade higher but probably not 2 grades higher.

The key is to buy a 5 that looks like a 7/8 but pay for the 5 price. The Schmidt and Ryan rookies I picked up at crazy low prices - same with the 58 Mantle. Saves money for other cards on your list.

ScoobyDoo2

Centering and surface. ~top two for me.

redlegs

Centering and color for me. Here is the nicest looking PSA 5 that I own.

cefy1

Thanks for all the fantastic feedback. I know many on the boards are pretty savvy when it come to buying the card not the holder. I would say I'd probably pay from 1-2 grades up depending on the card and the price. I base that on the fact that if you start at the average price be that vcp, market movers, apr it is simply the average price of all sold within the grade, in general I think that most cards that are selling are generally in the lower 2/3's so I'd be willing to pay up. I think the appreciation you get from the card is much greater if it meets the eye appeal you are looking for, but definitely want to get them at the lower price within the grade when possible.

This is one I was the underbidder, the next bidder was way below so could have been great deal, but didn't get this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203799329021?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&nma=true&si=OOFYsrx8638yCIYDd8s7%2BDwE3ag%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc

smallstocks

I am the rare freak who loves rough cut cards. I feel like it gives the card character!