How to Spot a Fake
For all those that have read this far without falling asleep, a true Desert Shield card should by now, be easier to spot. A true Desert Shield card should have the following characteristics:
Desert Shield logo should be 13mm X 15 mm
Desert Shield logo should have a rounded bottom
Desert Shield logo should be "crisp" and not fuzzy
The logo can be either goldish or slightly silver - both colors seem to be legitimate
Stars on the Flag should not be fuzzy
The card should be a Glow Back ie flouresce under UV light. The red 40th Anniversary should jump out under UV light
The tip of the bottom most palm leaf should point between the "R & A" in " O P E R A T I O N"; fake logos have the word " OPERATION" shifted slightly to the left.
Collecting Topps, Philadelphia and Kellogg's from 1964-1989
It was purchased by a good buddy of mine from an ad in SCD 1 week after they were issued. Back then it was not enough time to get geared up to produce fakes, a few months later they woudl be around though.
He sold all his Desert Shield's in 2020 but held on to the Ripken for me. I also have a few (Eddie Murray, Winfield, Fisk) ( ordered from that same SCD ad. I felt they were 7's or 8's, which means if I send them in now they will be 5's and 6's, so I'll just keep them in their Card Savers.
Unless otherwise specified my posts represent only my opinion, not fact.
@collector789 said:
I'd say the thickness of the gold foil and its differentiating thickness. It's hard to pinpoint exactly but I had deja vu
I was thinking lack of definition in the 2 outer shield lines. With my Ripken they are crisp and well defined. You can clearly see the image on the card between the 2 lines. With the ones in the first post the 2 lines blob together are various points.
Unless otherwise specified my posts represent only my opinion, not fact.
Comments
How to Spot a Fake
For all those that have read this far without falling asleep, a true Desert Shield card should by now, be easier to spot. A true Desert Shield card should have the following characteristics:
Based on the above post.......those appear FAKE
I asked about above a year back here and was told it is authentic; https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/1046063/desert-shield
It was purchased by a good buddy of mine from an ad in SCD 1 week after they were issued. Back then it was not enough time to get geared up to produce fakes, a few months later they woudl be around though.
He sold all his Desert Shield's in 2020 but held on to the Ripken for me. I also have a few (Eddie Murray, Winfield, Fisk) ( ordered from that same SCD ad. I felt they were 7's or 8's, which means if I send them in now they will be 5's and 6's, so I'll just keep them in their Card Savers.
Unless otherwise specified my posts represent only my opinion, not fact.
fake. I saw these at card shows around Dallas in the early 2000s.
Not disagreeing but what do you see that confirms it for you. Specifically on the Lasorda
Unless otherwise specified my posts represent only my opinion, not fact.
I'd say the thickness of the gold foil and its differentiating thickness. It's hard to pinpoint exactly but I had deja vu
I have a small handful of commons from a BBCE rip a couple years back if anyone is interested.
ISO 1978 Topps Baseball in NM-MT High Grade Raw 3, 100, 103, 302, 347, 376, 416, 466, 481, 487, 509, 534, 540, 554, 579, 580, 622, 642, 673, 724__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ISO 1978 O-Pee-Chee in NM-MT High Grade Raw12, 21, 29, 38, 49, 65, 69, 73, 74, 81, 95, 100, 104, 110, 115, 122, 132, 133, 135, 140, 142, 151, 153, 155, 160, 161, 167, 168, 172, 179, 181, 196, 200, 204, 210, 224, 231, 240
I was thinking lack of definition in the 2 outer shield lines. With my Ripken they are crisp and well defined. You can clearly see the image on the card between the 2 lines. With the ones in the first post the 2 lines blob together are various points.
Unless otherwise specified my posts represent only my opinion, not fact.