(Grades in) Mercury dime 1942/41d?

Ppp

I always found it very hard to see the 1942/41d. I had one once that was graded and to see the 42/41 I had to rotate the slab about 45 degrees.

I bought a collection and one raw coin was labeled as 1942/41d. Again, I find it tough to see, but at times it looks like it could be at the bottom of the four.

I am hoping the pictures (I always have trouble with my iPad) are good enough for some comments.

Thank you in advance for your help.

MFeld

It does not appear to be the overdate. If you haven’t already done so, see here:
https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1942-1-d-10c/5040

Rubicon

1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

MarkKelley

Impossible to tell without clearer photos. Look for a repunched mint mark as this is also present on the 42/41-D.

MarkKelley

@Rubicon said:
1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

Rarer than the Philadelphia coin.

HalfDimeDude

From those images no

Ppp

I will try and figure out how to get better pictures. When I use a loop with a light on an angle then it appears.

Yes I did look at the pcgs website and some of the lower quailty coin images such as:

https://www.pcgs.com/cert/41748625

Also, the slabbed (I forget it was pcgs or ngc) 42/41d I owned previously needed a loop and rotate the slab 45degrees to see the 42/41d and it didn’t look nearly as defined as the picture shown on the pcgs website. I also, owned a 42/41 where no loop or rotation of slab was needed to see the overdate.

As I was writing this I think I figured out how to get a better picture.

ricko

I see detail in your second set of pictures that appear to conform to the overdate. Can you also take a similar picture of the mint mark for further confirmation? Cheers, RickO

Ppp

Is this picture of the mint mark good enough?

What do you think it would grade at and do you think I should send it in?

jesbroken

You may have one there, but to be sure better photos of the date and mintmark to be certain. I would think the coin would grade VG10. Good luck, hope you have it.
Jim

DelawareDoons

Bingo. Looks like it. Best way to tell is to look at the lower leg of the 4 first, not the 2. There was obviously something there in your first image.

Congrats, get it certified. Looks VF25 or so if it isn't cleaned/damaged.

yspsales

Well done!

BuffaloIronTail

By Jove, I think you got it!

Should be a VF, too.

Pete

MarkKelley

Appears to be legit. I think I can see some doubling on the designer's initials, which is another pick-up point.

Rubicon

@MarkKelley said:

@Rubicon said:
1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

Rarer than the Philadelphia coin.

Understood. Still if someone is paying a a hundred thousand dollars or more for a gem mint state example I would think you would want to have a clear overdate to look at and enjoy. My personal opinion is it should not command such a high price if there is almost no visible overdate. I don’t see the point if you can hardly see the error. I guess set collectors are forced to pay the price.

MFeld

@Rubicon said:

@MarkKelley said:

@Rubicon said:
1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

Rarer than the Philadelphia coin.

Understood. Still if someone is paying a a hundred thousand dollars or more for a gem mint state example I would think you would want to have a clear overdate to look at and enjoy. My personal opinion is it should not command such a high price if there is almost no visible overdate. I don’t see the point if you can hardly see the error. I guess set collectors are forced to pay the price.

While the over-date dimes can get pricy in high grade, I don’t understand why you threw out the $100,000 number. I think only one or two have ever sold for that much. And the vast majority don’t sell for anywhere close to that amount.

Rubicon

@MFeld said:

@Rubicon said:

@MarkKelley said:

@Rubicon said:
1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

Rarer than the Philadelphia coin.

Understood. Still if someone is paying a a hundred thousand dollars or more for a gem mint state example I would think you would want to have a clear overdate to look at and enjoy. My personal opinion is it should not command such a high price if there is almost no visible overdate. I don’t see the point if you can hardly see the error. I guess set collectors are forced to pay the price.

While the over-date dimes can get pricy in high grade, I don’t understand why you threw out the $100,000 number. I think only one or two have ever sold for that much. And the vast majority don’t sell for anywhere close to that amount.

Just threw the number out as I have seen 1 or 2 coins offered in ms 65-66 fb offered for big money. Was trying to make the point that some people are paying a large sum for a difficult to see overdate but the concept applies to lower grade coins as well. Would you rather buy a 1942/1 clear wow overdate or a 1942/1d loupe overdate?

MFeld

@Rubicon said:

@MFeld said:

@Rubicon said:

@MarkKelley said:

@Rubicon said:
1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

Rarer than the Philadelphia coin.

Understood. Still if someone is paying a a hundred thousand dollars or more for a gem mint state example I would think you would want to have a clear overdate to look at and enjoy. My personal opinion is it should not command such a high price if there is almost no visible overdate. I don’t see the point if you can hardly see the error. I guess set collectors are forced to pay the price.

While the over-date dimes can get pricy in high grade, I don’t understand why you threw out the $100,000 number. I think only one or two have ever sold for that much. And the vast majority don’t sell for anywhere close to that amount.

Just threw the number out as I have seen 1 or 2 coins offered in ms 65-66 fb offered for big money. Was trying to make the point that some people are paying a large sum for a difficult to see overdate but the concept applies to lower grade coins as well. Would you rather buy a 1942/1 clear wow overdate or a 1942/1d loupe overdate?

I’m with you on that. Give me the P mint, please. 😉

skier07

Me personally, I would almost never pay a premium on a over date or variety if I have to use a loupe.

Tom147

No premium for me on this coin. Although I do not own one, I've seen several which are very clear overdates. If I were to show a novice this coin, they would not be impressed. You experts say it is. O.K. after all Mercurys not my specialty. I just don't see it.

Ppp

It took a long time to get but it was worth it.
1942/41d vf30

Treashunt

congrats!

I cherried one in junk silver years ago,

All the local dealers told me it wasn't it.

So I was at the ANA and gave it in across the street.

Now in an XF-45 holder.

One dealer I showed it to after, who had insisted that it wasn't the overdate, said [quote} "see, I told you it was good."

Idiot.

koynekwest

@MarkKelley said:

@Rubicon said:
1942/1d hard to see. Don’t understand why it’s valued the same as 1942/1p which is clear overdate

Rarer than the Philadelphia coin.

I'd still much rather have the Philly Mint coin.