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New to registry.

So started getting into this registry set game and gotta say it’s addicting. I’ve already received some great advice but I want some more. What advice would you give someone, like me, who is just starting in this?

Also I am coming after you Kennedy guys. 🙂

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    winestevenwinesteven Posts: 4,074 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited April 19, 2021 7:57AM
    1. Don’t “settle” for coins just to fill slots. Make sure YOU like the eye appeal of each coin you purchase.
    2. Whether you buy coins from dealers or auctions, develop relationships that are trustworthy. A sign is asking about an available coin they currently have in a grade you want, and asking if this coin is nice enough for your collection, or should you be more patient and pass, to wait for a nicer coin in that grade. I’ve found numismatists at some auction companies will indeed usually give you unbiased advice IF you know the questions to ask. Quite often I'm told to PASS!
    3. Learn the pricing curves. Depending on your budget and the coin and grade, it may cost only a little more (and be a better value) to buy a coin graded MS63 instead of MS62 (or MS64 instead of MS63, especially if there’s a BIG price jump to MS65).
    4. Many sets allow for your choice of a business strike or Proof coin for a slot. Depending on the coin and grade, a Proof coin can be less costly than a business strike in the same grade (especially in the higher grades). Keep in mind in most sets the Composition weights bonus points for Cameo designations, so a PR65CAM usually counts the same number of Registry points as a PR66 or MS66, yet often costs less. I prefer Proof coins in my sets when affordable, since to me the eye appeal of Proof coins is often far superior to the eye appeal of business strikes due to the Proof coin often having vastly more lustrous, watery mirrors, and much stronger strikes!
    5. Don’t upgrade a coin you have simply because one in a higher grade becomes available. There are several coins in several of my sets that are easy to upgrade, but I refuse to do so unless the new coin has much nicer eye eye appeal than the current coin in the slot. Better to have real nice eye appealing coins in your collection, even if they’re not in the highest grades for your budget.
    6. For “Modern” coins, keep in mind some of the top pop grades are very high in price due to only a few coins in that grade. Chances are over time, it’s probable for more coins to get graded in that top grade, so prices could come down.

    I hope this makes sense and you agree.

    Happy Hunting!

    Steve

    A day without fine wine and working on your coin collection is like a day without sunshine!!!

    My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
    https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
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    scooter25scooter25 Posts: 769 ✭✭✭✭

    @winesteven said:
    1. Don’t “settle” for coins just to fill slots. Make sure YOU like the eye appeal of each coin you purchase.
    2. Whether you buy coins from dealers or auctions, develop relationships that are trustworthy. A sign is asking about an available coin they currently have in a grade you want, and asking if this coin is nice enough for your collection, or should you be more patient and pass, to wait for a nicer coin in that grade. I’ve found numismatists at some auction companies will indeed usually give you unbiased advice IF you know the questions to ask.
    3. Learn the pricing curves. Depending on your budget and the coin and grade, it may cost only a little more (and be a better value) to buy a coin graded MS63 instead of MS62 (or MS64 instead of MS63, especially if there’s a BIG price jump to MS65).
    4. Many sets allow for your choice of a business strike or Proof coin for a slot. Depending on the coin and grade, a Proof coin can be less costly than a business strike in the same grade (especially in the higher grades). Keep in mind in most sets the Composition weights bonus points for Cameo designations, so a PR65CAM usually counts the same number of Registry points as a PR66 or MS66, yet often costs less. I prefer Proof coins in my sets when affordable, since to me the eye appeal of Proof coins is often far superior to the eye appeal of business strikes due to the Proof coin often having vastly more lustrous, watery mirrors, and much stronger strikes!
    5. Don’t upgrade a coin you have simply because one in a higher grade becomes available. There are several coins in several of my sets that are easy to upgrade, but I refuse to do so unless the new coin has much nicer eye eye appeal than the current coin in the slot. Better to have real nice eye appealing coins in your collection, even if they’re not in the highest grades for your budget.
    6. For “Modern” coins, keep in mind some of the top pop grades are very high in price due to only a few coins in that grade. Chances are over time, it’s probable for more coins to get graded in that top grade, so prices could come down.

    I hope this makes sense and you agree.

    Happy Hunting!

    Steve

    Great!! That’s some awesome advice Steve. I appreciate it!!

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    WAYNEASWAYNEAS Posts: 6,353 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @winesteven said:

    Great advice for all of us. Thanks.
    Wayne

    Kennedys are my quest...

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    WaterSportWaterSport Posts: 6,709 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Buy the Keys first. The others will always be available.

    WS

    Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.
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