@Vagabond said:
I personally think that getting a 6 or even a 7 is not out of reach. If it came back anything under a PSA 5, I would be shocked. OPC cards have those rough edges and I've seen plenty of 9's and even 10's to know that rough edges on OPC cards are normal and don't grade the same versus a regular non OPC card.. The care overall is pretty nice. Certainly is still desirable. The main thing that stands out to me is that little ding on the top left (next to the white logo beside the E). That doesn't appear to be part of the OPC factory cut since the rest of that left side is smooth. But honestly, I can see this in a 7. Go for it, get it graded and let us know.
Yeah...not sure what the 'ding' is. I handled this card for less than a minute so not sure how I could have caused that. Perhaps the entire pack took some impacts during distribution. I still remember how happy I was to find this card in a pack. It was the top card...great memory.
Not to keep knocking on the card, but there seems to be some PD as well. Look at the white dot on the T in Edmonton.
With the centering you should be stoked with anything above a 5.
And count me among those saying get it graded. Ive collected hockey cards for 40 years, dropped some serious coin along the way, like to think I know what I’m doing, and still wouldn’t buy a raw Gretzky rookie from my own mother.
completely doing one screw at time may put additional pressure on remaining, undo a little pressure from each screw until they are off. I've also heard just release a little pressure on each screw then wait a few hours then do some more. I think the theory is less cohesion potential or something?
Hope it works out for you, I've had more than one card of the years damaged by those type of holders.
It's the singer not the song - Peter Townshend (1972)
completely doing one screw at time may put additional pressure on remaining, undo a little pressure from each screw until they are off. I've also heard just release a little pressure on each screw then wait a few hours then do some more. I think the theory is less cohesion potential or something?
Hope it works out for you, I've had more than one card of the years damaged by those type of holders.
I wonder if placing it in the freezer for 24 hours before unscrewing it may be helpful. The last time I tried something like this, some of the front of the card pealed off with the protector. Fortunately, it was an inexpensive card.
I think it's a nice looking card. I own much older PSA 7s that I feel look worse than that. There looks to be a little chip close to the upper left corner to the left of Edmonton. Not sure how much that deducts. At the end of the day, the grading is a huge benefit so you have it both authenticated and protected. After that, it kind of is what is. It's not like you only get this price for this grade. If you got a 7, someone may say that is a much uglier 7 than this option I have and you get the real low range. If it was a 5, someone could say that is an incredible 5 and you get the high end of the 5 range. These days people are more likely to eye it and grade it themselves and assign their personal value, while accepting okay it is in that case and applying a ceiling or a floor. But you can have a great 7 and a terrible 8 sometimes separated by a very small percentage. If you do ship it off, just insure it at a price you feel is close to your best case scenario with grading and you can relax a little more about having it out of your hands.
@UlyssesExtravaganza said:
I think it's a nice looking card. I own much older PSA 7s that I feel look worse than that. There looks to be a little chip close to the upper left corner to the left of Edmonton. Not sure how much that deducts. At the end of the day, the grading is a huge benefit so you have it both authenticated and protected. After that, it kind of is what is. It's not like you only get this price for this grade. If you got a 7, someone may say that is a much uglier 7 than this option I have and you get the real low range. If it was a 5, someone could say that is an incredible 5 and you get the high end of the 5 range. These days people are more likely to eye it and grade it themselves and assign their personal value, while accepting okay it is in that case and applying a ceiling or a floor. But you can have a great 7 and a terrible 8 sometimes separated by a very small percentage. If you do ship it off, just insure it at a price you feel is close to your best case scenario with grading and you can relax a little more about having it out of your hands.
Yes..the differences in grading can be so varying. I think it's a nice looking card compared to many others between 5 and 7.5. I'll be insuring it for sure and will have it express graded. I have family and friends interested in it that wanted to purchase raw because they know it's authentic. But I think I need to look at all markets to get the best value for the card.
FYI...got the card out of the slab exactly as it went in. No residue left on the slab and I got it into a hard sleeve like butter. Pheww. I left the card in a box on a cold window sill overnight. Then I spent an hour pulling all 4 screws back in a kitty corner pattern, about 2 degrees at a time. I waited 20 minutes before I pulled the screws back more. Voila....lucked out. Thanks for all the advice. I thought I was 'screwed' there for a minute.
@professorpuck said:
You'll want to put that in a penny sleeve.
Why a penny sleeve? What is the difference between the one that I have it in? Wouldn't a rigid sleeve be better for mailing?
He means put it in a penny sleeve FIRST, then put the penny sleeve in the rigid holder. Otherwise the card will bounce around and slide out easier... Also, the tape top of the holder closed so it doesn't come out, even in the penny sleeve.
Also, when shipping to PSA, you put the card in a penny sleeve, then into a CardSaver I or equivalent semi-rigid holder. You put it between cardboard as instructed on the PSA site.
i think professor was saying penny sleeve bc in the toploader as picd it was not in one. which i would agree, if he was going to send it in a toploader, a penny sleeve first would be a must.
if he's going to a semi rigid then no pennysleeve. but for the love of ganesh, quit handling the card! next i see a pic of the card taken from inside a blender! then on a grill. maybe even floating on top of the pool? 😉
if he's going to a semi rigid then no pennysleeve. but for the love of ganesh, quit handling the card! next i see a pic of the card taken from inside a blender! then on a grill. maybe even floating on top of the pool? 😉
When you present a big name card to the market, you should take as many pics as possible. It’s like taking a pic of your favourite gnome in each city when you travel to, say Europe.
if he's going to a semi rigid then no pennysleeve. but for the love of ganesh, quit handling the card! next i see a pic of the card taken from inside a blender! then on a grill. maybe even floating on top of the pool? 😉
When you present a big name card to the market, you should take as many pics as possible. It’s like taking a pic of your favourite gnome in each city when you travel to, say Europe.
I’d still have it in a penny sleeve before putting it into a CS1. I’d be to nervous not to with a card like that. Also, I’d slice a bit down one side of the seam of the penny sleeve, and fold it open a bit before putting the card in there.
Guy, no reason to penny sleeve this card before putting in a card saver. Just slide her in there and be done with it. I’ve never seen so much discussion and intrigue about putting a card into a card saver. LOL.
@AlanAllen said:
Yikes. Sorry brother, that's a 4 or 5 if it's real. Centering is way way off left to right, and the oil bubble is off center. All four corners have wear.
Agree. All 4 corners are touched, the top edge is obviously rough, and the centering is way off. Looks like a ding in the upper left edge, too. 4 or 5 maybe.
@AlanAllen said:
Yikes. Sorry brother, that's a 4 or 5 if it's real. Centering is way way off left to right, and the oil bubble is off center. All four corners have wear.
Agree. All 4 corners are touched, the top edge is obviously rough, and the centering is way off. Looks like a ding in the upper left edge, too. 4 or 5 maybe.
@AlanAllen said:
Yikes. Sorry brother, that's a 4 or 5 if it's real. Centering is way way off left to right, and the oil bubble is off center. All four corners have wear.
Agree. All 4 corners are touched, the top edge is obviously rough, and the centering is way off. Looks like a ding in the upper left edge, too. 4 or 5 maybe.
@AlanAllen said:
Yikes. Sorry brother, that's a 4 or 5 if it's real. Centering is way way off left to right, and the oil bubble is off center. All four corners have wear.
Agree. All 4 corners are touched, the top edge is obviously rough, and the centering is way off. Looks like a ding in the upper left edge, too. 4 or 5 maybe.
@AlanAllen said:
Yikes. Sorry brother, that's a 4 or 5 if it's real. Centering is way way off left to right, and the oil bubble is off center. All four corners have wear.
Agree. All 4 corners are touched, the top edge is obviously rough, and the centering is way off. Looks like a ding in the upper left edge, too. 4 or 5 maybe.
Comments
Yeah...not sure what the 'ding' is. I handled this card for less than a minute so not sure how I could have caused that. Perhaps the entire pack took some impacts during distribution. I still remember how happy I was to find this card in a pack. It was the top card...great memory.
It's a real nice card. I would say 6 but it has registration issues so probably a very nice 5.
Yeah..will draw the screws back veerrrry carefully. It's been in that slab for a long time.
I' would not buy a card of the magnitude unless PSA graded. Too much money to risk on a raw card.
It’s actually against eBay’s policy to list rookie Gretzky’s raw, not that it’s enforced (and not that eBay is your only option to sell, of course).
https://www.ebay.com/help/policies/prohibited-restricted-items/autographed-items-certificates-authenticity-coas-trading-cards-policy?id=4283
Jim
That card is probably a 5.
Guess I'll find out soon enough...I've gotten 4.0-7.0. Quite the variation of opinions. I'm happy for the input.
Since it's authentic and has a possibility of being graded more than a 5.0, I will be having it graded now.
Even a 4 is a $2500 card. I'd say it's worth getting graded regardless.
You are now legally obligated to come back to this board in 2037 after it's back from PSA and show off the grade you get. Just an FYI.
Not to keep knocking on the card, but there seems to be some PD as well. Look at the white dot on the T in Edmonton.
With the centering you should be stoked with anything above a 5.
And count me among those saying get it graded. Ive collected hockey cards for 40 years, dropped some serious coin along the way, like to think I know what I’m doing, and still wouldn’t buy a raw Gretzky rookie from my own mother.
I agree psa 6, outside chance at 7 if grader is pumped about life at the time he looks at it.
You can hand deliver to PSA at the National convention. They grade it on the spot for a slight fee.
Link for the fee schedule at the 2019 National for on site grading:
https://www.psacard.com/national
But the line will be 6 months long!!
Good call, if there is a National that PSA line will be insane.
Successful card BST transactions with cbcnow, brogurt, gstarling, Bravesfan 007, and rajah 424.
Which will be longer. The line to submit or the line to complain. Or the line to pick up your 2020 subs.???
Send it in with at least express grading. Otherwise you won’t see it for a long time. Definitely get is graded.
Be carful> @emar said:
completely doing one screw at time may put additional pressure on remaining, undo a little pressure from each screw until they are off. I've also heard just release a little pressure on each screw then wait a few hours then do some more. I think the theory is less cohesion potential or something?
Hope it works out for you, I've had more than one card of the years damaged by those type of holders.
It's the singer not the song - Peter Townshend (1972)
I wonder if placing it in the freezer for 24 hours before unscrewing it may be helpful. The last time I tried something like this, some of the front of the card pealed off with the protector. Fortunately, it was an inexpensive card.
>
Successful transactions on the BST boards with rtimmer, coincoins, gerard, tincup, tjm965, MMR, mission16, dirtygoldman, AUandAG, deadmunny, thedutymon, leadoff4, Kid4HOF03, BRI2327, colebear, mcholke, rpcolettrane, rockdjrw, publius, quik, kalinefan, Allen, JackWESQ, CON40, Griffeyfan2430, blue227, Tiggs2012, ndleo, CDsNuts, ve3rules, doh, MurphDawg, tennessebanker, and gene1978.
I think it's a nice looking card. I own much older PSA 7s that I feel look worse than that. There looks to be a little chip close to the upper left corner to the left of Edmonton. Not sure how much that deducts. At the end of the day, the grading is a huge benefit so you have it both authenticated and protected. After that, it kind of is what is. It's not like you only get this price for this grade. If you got a 7, someone may say that is a much uglier 7 than this option I have and you get the real low range. If it was a 5, someone could say that is an incredible 5 and you get the high end of the 5 range. These days people are more likely to eye it and grade it themselves and assign their personal value, while accepting okay it is in that case and applying a ceiling or a floor. But you can have a great 7 and a terrible 8 sometimes separated by a very small percentage. If you do ship it off, just insure it at a price you feel is close to your best case scenario with grading and you can relax a little more about having it out of your hands.
Thanks folks. Lots of great advice and I feel less stressed about sending it off for grading. I'll be sure to chime in when I get the grading.
Yes..the differences in grading can be so varying. I think it's a nice looking card compared to many others between 5 and 7.5. I'll be insuring it for sure and will have it express graded. I have family and friends interested in it that wanted to purchase raw because they know it's authentic. But I think I need to look at all markets to get the best value for the card.
FYI...got the card out of the slab exactly as it went in. No residue left on the slab and I got it into a hard sleeve like butter. Pheww. I left the card in a box on a cold window sill overnight. Then I spent an hour pulling all 4 screws back in a kitty corner pattern, about 2 degrees at a time. I waited 20 minutes before I pulled the screws back more. Voila....lucked out. Thanks for all the advice. I thought I was 'screwed' there for a minute.
You'll want to put that in a penny sleeve.
Why a penny sleeve? What is the difference between the one that I have it in? Wouldn't a rigid sleeve be better for mailing?
You put it in a penny sleeve and then the card with the sleeve inside of a semi-rigid (CS1) as best practice.
As is, (toploader no sleeve), the card will rattle around and risk being damaged far more easily.
And again...I learned something new. Thanks!!
He means put it in a penny sleeve FIRST, then put the penny sleeve in the rigid holder. Otherwise the card will bounce around and slide out easier... Also, the tape top of the holder closed so it doesn't come out, even in the penny sleeve.
Also, when shipping to PSA, you put the card in a penny sleeve, then into a CardSaver I or equivalent semi-rigid holder. You put it between cardboard as instructed on the PSA site.
I do NOT use a penny sleeve when sending in to PSA. Cardsaver is good enough and less handling without sleeve.
I think general consensus is that paper cards are ok with just Cardsavers, while glossy/foil cards benefit from penny sleeves and CardSavers.
i think professor was saying penny sleeve bc in the toploader as picd it was not in one. which i would agree, if he was going to send it in a toploader, a penny sleeve first would be a must.
if he's going to a semi rigid then no pennysleeve. but for the love of ganesh, quit handling the card! next i see a pic of the card taken from inside a blender! then on a grill. maybe even floating on top of the pool? 😉
When you present a big name card to the market, you should take as many pics as possible. It’s like taking a pic of your favourite gnome in each city when you travel to, say Europe.
Have never once used a penny sleeve in a CS1 in 25 years of grading. Shiny stuff? Very little volume for this guy, however still a hard no.
At least take it out to dinner!
Yes, you sleeve it before putting in a hard toploader like this. You also sleeve anything that could scratch on plastic.
I’d still have it in a penny sleeve before putting it into a CS1. I’d be to nervous not to with a card like that. Also, I’d slice a bit down one side of the seam of the penny sleeve, and fold it open a bit before putting the card in there.
Guy, no reason to penny sleeve this card before putting in a card saver. Just slide her in there and be done with it. I’ve never seen so much discussion and intrigue about putting a card into a card saver. LOL.
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