PSA submissions

rsandberg23

Does anyone know if PSA will honor the submission price/card value used when submitted or when they grade card. I have 6 submissions pending since before prices went up. For example 1990 hoops jordan 65 was under $200 when I submitted it. They card now lists for $500 on psa.

ms70

I would think they would stand by the value you put on the submission form. This is just my opinion but as always the best answer would come from customer service.

LarkinCollector

$200 -> $500 isn't going to be an issue, I've only seen one mention of a questionable upcharge ever. It's got to be egregious is most cases.

daltex

@rsandberg23 said:
Does anyone know if PSA will honor the submission price/card value used when submitted or when they grade card. I have 6 submissions pending since before prices went up. For example 1990 hoops jordan 65 was under $200 when I submitted it. They card now lists for $500 on psa.

Regardless, it is in PSAs interest to allow you to cure the defect in your submission, that is to allow you to pay the minimum rate you should have submitted the card at. PSA wants the best cards to be in PSA holders. Note that, of course, PSA has no way of knowing if the values you declare are at all reasonable. When you list your '86 Jordan, PSA doesn't know if it has a giant crease in it or not. It's in PSAs interest to err on the side of generosity and assume submitters didn't know the card the declared at $175 wasn't really worth $500 or $1000 or $2000, but at some point PSA is going to realize you're trying to make a fool of them and charges you the proper rate.

As I've said elsewhere, it would make sense for PSA to suspend submission privileges for people who repeatedly abuse them.

DeutscherGeist

Their website says that in cases where there is a big value discrepancy, they will notify the customer to pay the difference. No penalty is mentioned because they know that a PSA 8 and PSA 9 for a certain card can have a considerable price gap, but may not really be obvious as whether it would grade an 8 or a 9. The same with the PSA 9 and PSA 10 grades on contemporary cards. Huge price differences exist even though the card condition may not show much difference at all.

Just out of curiosity, what service level should one pick for something like a 1980 Topps Rickey Henderson (that can grade a 8 or 9) or a 1984 Donruss Don Mattingly (that can grade a 9 or 10). It may not even be those grades when all is said and done, so what is one supposed to pick? Economy $50/card (Value $999 or less)? Regular (Value $1499 or less)? Something else? Will choosing the higher value make the insurance process easier in the rare case the cards are lost or damaged?

1951WheatiesPremium

@DeutscherGeist said:
Their website says that in cases where there is a big value discrepancy, they will notify the customer to pay the difference. No penalty is mentioned because they know that a PSA 8 and PSA 9 for a certain card can have a considerable price gap, but may not really be obvious as whether it would grade an 8 or a 9. The same with the PSA 9 and PSA 10 grades on contemporary cards. Huge price differences exist even though the card condition may not show much difference at all.

Just out of curiosity, what service level should one pick for something like a 1980 Topps Rickey Henderson (that can grade a 8 or 9) or a 1984 Donruss Don Mattingly (that can grade a 9 or 10). It may not even be those grades when all is said and done, so what is one supposed to pick? Economy $50/card (Value $999 or less)? Regular (Value $1499 or less)? Something else? Will choosing the higher value make the insurance process easier in the rare case the cards are lost or damaged?

I really think the best bet is to be as honest as possible. I would also say that I would not sub a modern star card at higher than it’s PSA 9 price point and for vintage stars I think you have to try to grade accurately and then search comparable sales of that grade in a range (or a visually similar example). If you are undervaluing a valuable card, you will simply be upcharged, anyway, so if it’s close it is probably wisest to go in on a submission level with the lower priced tier of the two - especially if turnaround time does not matter.