It’s not an “alt identity blown” if I already told people this is my new identity and why the moderator gave me permission to create it. O_O
You can’t “blow” someone’s identity if they’re not hiding it.
If I really wanted to hide my identity no one would know it was me.
& I definitely wouldn’t be sharing the exact same stuff across various coin forums & communities. 😂
But as we now both know:
I wasn’t ever trying to hide it.
I was doing what the Moderator advised which was to stop posting on my old account, use this one, and don’t contact the people who harassed &/or threatened me on my old account.
@abcde12345 said:
It is sad the OP was threatened and harassed to a degree it was necessary to open a new identity. I'm a bit perplexed why those harassing and threatening members were allowed to continue to do so and why their account(s) were not limited or banned.
In the meantime, that is a terrific looking dollar and would/should make anyone proud to own.
Welcome (back) to the community.
Unfortunately the Moderator I talked too said he could not tell me what actions were being taken against those people.
I was told simply that it would be “addressed”.
I understand why he/she said that though. Disciplinary action is between the moderators & the rule breakers and isn’t really meant to be shared with the public.
Thanks for the compliment on the coin! ^_^ I love it! It’s literally the centerpiece & highlight of my entire collection.
Welcome to the forum and great looking coin
From what I have read thus far it seems these older $'s hold their value pretty well which is really nice to know. I've spent my first few years in the moderns/ultra and getting even 75% of book is tough, thus my move to gold among other esthetic reasons. So, this opens up a whole new realm of possibilities for me.
Best of luck!
B&M is brick and mortar, which is actually any retail coin shop on the street or in a mall. Before the internet, I would rarely see an early dollar in the local coin shops. The Draped Bust design on any denomination is scarce compared to the later designs. Robert Scot did some great engraving on these.
Robert Scot: Engraving Liberty - biography of US Mint's first chief engraver
@Nysoto said:
B&M is brick and mortar, which is actually any retail coin shop on the street or in a mall. Before the internet, I would rarely see an early dollar in the local coin shops. The Draped Bust design on any denomination is scarce compared to the later designs. Robert Scot did some great engraving on these.
Ahhh ok I get what you mean.
I got my DBD from Northern Nevada Coin but I haven’t seen one at any other coin shop.
The funny thing is NNC actually had TWO of them but I couldn’t afford the XF one.
Then again they have millions of dollars in coins and tons of stuff I’ve never seen in person before.
Like 2x $50 Humbert Gold ingot coins (pic below). Apparently those are extremely rare and sell for tens of thousands of dollars.
I was most impressed by the dozens of $5, $10 and $20 pre 1933 Carson City gold coins they had.
I actually got to hold an $80,000 coin in my hands. 😂
@rec78 said:
You're a newbee collector? Starting out with bust dollars?? Wow! Now that's impressive!!
Thanks!
It’s not my very first coin I have some Morgan Dollars and some pre-1933 gold coins but this is my first big purchase that didn’t have a large intrinsic value due to being made of gold like my other coins.
Welcome to the Board. That's heckuva coin for your first post. As a new collector, that's also a gargantuan jump from Morgans and numismatic gold bullion ... at least it's certified and graded properly (market acceptable). Many newbies here have done far worse.
The good news ... you may have just caught the "early Bust coinage fever." And ... it's a nice coin, no doubt, and based on what you disclosed on CoinTalk, you paid a fair retail price.
The bad news ... you really should put on the brakes and learn more before you take any more chances on high dollars coins in collecting areas new to you.
No offense intended, but your responses to some of the earlier posts indicate significant surprise at some fundamentals of collecting Bust material. Namely, "cleaned" coins get graded and placed in top TPG holders. That's the market.
Have the dealer from whom you purchased the coin, educate you. They are good folks and will likely want you to be a better informed collector (because that translates into more business).
Consider examining coins with CAC stickers as those will help you get a better handle on what many believe are "high end" for the grade, with an emphasis on original surfaces. This is much more important with Bust material than later coinage, IMO.
Good luck and stick around. There is lots of knowledge here and minimal trash.
Thanks for the info
I’m trying to learn as much as I can but there’s just so much to learn.
When I bought the 1799 DBD I just looked at Greysheet & Red Book & Blue Book prices and I saw that they had it priced less than the Red Book retail prices so I figured it was a decent deal.
So far most of my time has been spent learning about Morgan Dollars and bank notes.
I admit I don’t know much about Bust coinage but I will try my best to learn what I can.
I’ve bought several books and read a couple so far but I still have a long way to go.
Excellent start. The John Reich Collectors Society is a great resource.
I also wanted to mention that one thing I like about NNC is that they have a code on the sticker they put on the back of the slab that tells you how much they as dealers paid for it.
For example this one says ADXX
A = 1
D = 4
X = 0
X = 0
So they paid $1400 for it and priced it at $1560.
But I paid $1460 for it (since I paid in cash) so I figure it had to have been a good deal if I only paid $60 more than the dealer did on a coin valued over $1K.
Even though I don’t know much about DBDs I was still able to see it was a fair deal due to the financial history of the coin in terms of what a dealer was paying and selling it for.
If that makes sense?
I know them pretty well and your assumption on what they paid is wrong. I wont get into their business, just trust me on this.
@rec78 said:
You're a newbee collector? Starting out with bust dollars?? Wow! Now that's impressive!!
Thanks!
It’s not my very first coin I have some Morgan Dollars and some pre-1933 gold coins but this is my first big purchase that didn’t have a large intrinsic value due to being made of gold like my other coins.
Welcome to the Board. That's heckuva coin for your first post. As a new collector, that's also a gargantuan jump from Morgans and numismatic gold bullion ... at least it's certified and graded properly (market acceptable). Many newbies here have done far worse.
The good news ... you may have just caught the "early Bust coinage fever." And ... it's a nice coin, no doubt, and based on what you disclosed on CoinTalk, you paid a fair retail price.
The bad news ... you really should put on the brakes and learn more before you take any more chances on high dollars coins in collecting areas new to you.
No offense intended, but your responses to some of the earlier posts indicate significant surprise at some fundamentals of collecting Bust material. Namely, "cleaned" coins get graded and placed in top TPG holders. That's the market.
Have the dealer from whom you purchased the coin, educate you. They are good folks and will likely want you to be a better informed collector (because that translates into more business).
Consider examining coins with CAC stickers as those will help you get a better handle on what many believe are "high end" for the grade, with an emphasis on original surfaces. This is much more important with Bust material than later coinage, IMO.
Good luck and stick around. There is lots of knowledge here and minimal trash.
Thanks for the info
I’m trying to learn as much as I can but there’s just so much to learn.
When I bought the 1799 DBD I just looked at Greysheet & Red Book & Blue Book prices and I saw that they had it priced less than the Red Book retail prices so I figured it was a decent deal.
So far most of my time has been spent learning about Morgan Dollars and bank notes.
I admit I don’t know much about Bust coinage but I will try my best to learn what I can.
I’ve bought several books and read a couple so far but I still have a long way to go.
Excellent start. The John Reich Collectors Society is a great resource.
I also wanted to mention that one thing I like about NNC is that they have a code on the sticker they put on the back of the slab that tells you how much they as dealers paid for it.
For example this one says ADXX
A = 1
D = 4
X = 0
X = 0
So they paid $1400 for it and priced it at $1560.
But I paid $1460 for it (since I paid in cash) so I figure it had to have been a good deal if I only paid $60 more than the dealer did on a coin valued over $1K.
Even though I don’t know much about DBDs I was still able to see it was a fair deal due to the financial history of the coin in terms of what a dealer was paying and selling it for.
If that makes sense?
I know them pretty well and your assumption on what they paid is wrong. I wont get into their business, just trust me on this.
I’m just going based on what I was told.
I only know Lisa but I know her well enough that I don’t think she would lie to my face like that.
@rec78 said:
You're a newbee collector? Starting out with bust dollars?? Wow! Now that's impressive!!
Thanks!
It’s not my very first coin I have some Morgan Dollars and some pre-1933 gold coins but this is my first big purchase that didn’t have a large intrinsic value due to being made of gold like my other coins.
Welcome to the Board. That's heckuva coin for your first post. As a new collector, that's also a gargantuan jump from Morgans and numismatic gold bullion ... at least it's certified and graded properly (market acceptable). Many newbies here have done far worse.
The good news ... you may have just caught the "early Bust coinage fever." And ... it's a nice coin, no doubt, and based on what you disclosed on CoinTalk, you paid a fair retail price.
The bad news ... you really should put on the brakes and learn more before you take any more chances on high dollars coins in collecting areas new to you.
No offense intended, but your responses to some of the earlier posts indicate significant surprise at some fundamentals of collecting Bust material. Namely, "cleaned" coins get graded and placed in top TPG holders. That's the market.
Have the dealer from whom you purchased the coin, educate you. They are good folks and will likely want you to be a better informed collector (because that translates into more business).
Consider examining coins with CAC stickers as those will help you get a better handle on what many believe are "high end" for the grade, with an emphasis on original surfaces. This is much more important with Bust material than later coinage, IMO.
Good luck and stick around. There is lots of knowledge here and minimal trash.
Thanks for the info
I’m trying to learn as much as I can but there’s just so much to learn.
When I bought the 1799 DBD I just looked at Greysheet & Red Book & Blue Book prices and I saw that they had it priced less than the Red Book retail prices so I figured it was a decent deal.
So far most of my time has been spent learning about Morgan Dollars and bank notes.
I admit I don’t know much about Bust coinage but I will try my best to learn what I can.
I’ve bought several books and read a couple so far but I still have a long way to go.
Excellent start. The John Reich Collectors Society is a great resource.
I also wanted to mention that one thing I like about NNC is that they have a code on the sticker they put on the back of the slab that tells you how much they as dealers paid for it.
For example this one says ADXX
A = 1
D = 4
X = 0
X = 0
So they paid $1400 for it and priced it at $1560.
But I paid $1460 for it (since I paid in cash) so I figure it had to have been a good deal if I only paid $60 more than the dealer did on a coin valued over $1K.
Even though I don’t know much about DBDs I was still able to see it was a fair deal due to the financial history of the coin in terms of what a dealer was paying and selling it for.
If that makes sense?
I know them pretty well and your assumption on what they paid is wrong. I wont get into their business, just trust me on this.
I’m just going based on what I was told.
I only know Lisa but I know her well enough that I don’t think she would lie to my face like that.
You got them down some which is great but that is not a cost code. Best not to share info a on dealers business, not great etiquette.
@rec78 said:
You're a newbee collector? Starting out with bust dollars?? Wow! Now that's impressive!!
Thanks!
It’s not my very first coin I have some Morgan Dollars and some pre-1933 gold coins but this is my first big purchase that didn’t have a large intrinsic value due to being made of gold like my other coins.
Welcome to the Board. That's heckuva coin for your first post. As a new collector, that's also a gargantuan jump from Morgans and numismatic gold bullion ... at least it's certified and graded properly (market acceptable). Many newbies here have done far worse.
The good news ... you may have just caught the "early Bust coinage fever." And ... it's a nice coin, no doubt, and based on what you disclosed on CoinTalk, you paid a fair retail price.
The bad news ... you really should put on the brakes and learn more before you take any more chances on high dollars coins in collecting areas new to you.
No offense intended, but your responses to some of the earlier posts indicate significant surprise at some fundamentals of collecting Bust material. Namely, "cleaned" coins get graded and placed in top TPG holders. That's the market.
Have the dealer from whom you purchased the coin, educate you. They are good folks and will likely want you to be a better informed collector (because that translates into more business).
Consider examining coins with CAC stickers as those will help you get a better handle on what many believe are "high end" for the grade, with an emphasis on original surfaces. This is much more important with Bust material than later coinage, IMO.
Good luck and stick around. There is lots of knowledge here and minimal trash.
Thanks for the info
I’m trying to learn as much as I can but there’s just so much to learn.
When I bought the 1799 DBD I just looked at Greysheet & Red Book & Blue Book prices and I saw that they had it priced less than the Red Book retail prices so I figured it was a decent deal.
So far most of my time has been spent learning about Morgan Dollars and bank notes.
I admit I don’t know much about Bust coinage but I will try my best to learn what I can.
I’ve bought several books and read a couple so far but I still have a long way to go.
Excellent start. The John Reich Collectors Society is a great resource.
I also wanted to mention that one thing I like about NNC is that they have a code on the sticker they put on the back of the slab that tells you how much they as dealers paid for it.
For example this one says ADXX
A = 1
D = 4
X = 0
X = 0
So they paid $1400 for it and priced it at $1560.
But I paid $1460 for it (since I paid in cash) so I figure it had to have been a good deal if I only paid $60 more than the dealer did on a coin valued over $1K.
Even though I don’t know much about DBDs I was still able to see it was a fair deal due to the financial history of the coin in terms of what a dealer was paying and selling it for.
If that makes sense?
I know them pretty well and your assumption on what they paid is wrong. I wont get into their business, just trust me on this.
I’m just going based on what I was told.
I only know Lisa but I know her well enough that I don’t think she would lie to my face like that.
You got them down some which is great but that is not a cost code. Best not to share info a on dealers business, not great etiquette.
Oh. That I didn’t know.
I figured whatever they told me was stuff I could share.
But if it’s something that’s not meant to be shared I definitely won’t share it again.
Unfortunately I can’t un-share it.
Even if it’s not the cost code though I still feel I got a good deal on it.
Comments
Did you even read what I wrote?
It’s not an “alt identity blown” if I already told people this is my new identity and why the moderator gave me permission to create it. O_O
You can’t “blow” someone’s identity if they’re not hiding it.
If I really wanted to hide my identity no one would know it was me.
& I definitely wouldn’t be sharing the exact same stuff across various coin forums & communities. 😂
But as we now both know:
I wasn’t ever trying to hide it.
I was doing what the Moderator advised which was to stop posting on my old account, use this one, and don’t contact the people who harassed &/or threatened me on my old account.
Unfortunately the Moderator I talked too said he could not tell me what actions were being taken against those people.
I was told simply that it would be “addressed”.
I understand why he/she said that though. Disciplinary action is between the moderators & the rule breakers and isn’t really meant to be shared with the public.
Thanks for the compliment on the coin! ^_^ I love it! It’s literally the centerpiece & highlight of my entire collection.
Welcome to the forum and great looking coin
From what I have read thus far it seems these older $'s hold their value pretty well which is really nice to know. I've spent my first few years in the moderns/ultra and getting even 75% of book is tough, thus my move to gold among other esthetic reasons. So, this opens up a whole new realm of possibilities for me.
Best of luck!
Yep, the don’t make them anymore. 🤔🙃
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Exquisite coin! Great 1st one. Never seen a coin receive as many "likes" as yours before. Good going.
"Jesus died for you and for me, Thank you,Jesus"!!!
--- If it should happen I die and leave this world and you want to remember me. Please only remember my opening Sig Line.Early Dollars are awesome. Great design and seldom seen in B&M coin shops.
Agreed!
What is B&M?
Thanks!
I’m glad people like it.
I think it’s a pretty unique and cool coin.
I love the fact that the only words on it are:
“LIBERTY”
“United States of America”
& “E Pluribus Unum”
It really shows what our Founding Fathers and the first Americans cared about most.
Liberty & Country.
Plus it’s not a Morgan Dollar 😂
B&M is brick and mortar, which is actually any retail coin shop on the street or in a mall. Before the internet, I would rarely see an early dollar in the local coin shops. The Draped Bust design on any denomination is scarce compared to the later designs. Robert Scot did some great engraving on these.
Ahhh ok I get what you mean.
I got my DBD from Northern Nevada Coin but I haven’t seen one at any other coin shop.
The funny thing is NNC actually had TWO of them but I couldn’t afford the XF one.
Then again they have millions of dollars in coins and tons of stuff I’ve never seen in person before.
Like 2x $50 Humbert Gold ingot coins (pic below). Apparently those are extremely rare and sell for tens of thousands of dollars.
I was most impressed by the dozens of $5, $10 and $20 pre 1933 Carson City gold coins they had.
I actually got to hold an $80,000 coin in my hands. 😂
You should check it out if you ever get a chance.
I know them pretty well and your assumption on what they paid is wrong. I wont get into their business, just trust me on this.
I’m just going based on what I was told.
I only know Lisa but I know her well enough that I don’t think she would lie to my face like that.
You got them down some which is great but that is not a cost code. Best not to share info a on dealers business, not great etiquette.
Oh. That I didn’t know.
I figured whatever they told me was stuff I could share.
But if it’s something that’s not meant to be shared I definitely won’t share it again.
Unfortunately I can’t un-share it.
Even if it’s not the cost code though I still feel I got a good deal on it.
I use "BLACKSTONE" for the price code as it is ten different letters, for each number.
For example, a $175. coin would be BTK.
I’m that case my coin would’ve said:
BCEE
You can always ask the mods to delete this thread and start over.
Nah it’s fine. I don’t think many people will even see it since it’s so deep into the thread.