Guidance Needed
Desertdoc
Posts: 8 ✭
Hi everyone. I did not see a place to make an introduction post so this will be it. I collected cards from 1974-1983 as a kid and newly minted teenager. I traded my gum for cards and took very good care of them. They went from wax to put away under my bed in a box. As I got older I built sets. I left the hobby in 1994.
Fast forward to now and I have cards that are the same as when they came out of wax. So, where do I begin? I looked them over and while most are not PSA 8, 9 10. Sharp corners, clean bright surface but with the usual off center images. They are still rock solid cards and some I want to get graded. I only want to keep PSA 8,9, 10 for my collection.
So, the advice I am seeking:
Should I get cards of HoF rookies graded even though it might be a 7?
Not get it graded and just sell for a fair price?
As an example I have 1984 Topps Elway cards. Sharp corners, nice surface, but OC. About 65/45.
I am new to PSA collecting and appreciate any feedback.
Thank you for your time.
I have made the search function my friend.
Comments
Welcome. I would search the web or Ebay to see what some of the cards you are interested in having graded are going for currently. You will likely be able to find a PSA 7 Elway rookie easily. Then, you can make a solid determination whether it is worth having graded to you.
First, welcome and thanks for the intro!
On older or more expensive cards, definitely. Unfortunately, there are a lot of counterfeits and HOF rookies are a prime target. The more recent you go, it can be 10 or bust.
This is doable too. However, if you're a low feedback seller, even the gamblers might be suspicious and you could easily net less than the extra cost for grading. I prefer to alleviate any buyer concerns with authenticity and avoid returns by having things graded.
Giving it 110% I see
65/35 is within the realm of a PSA 8 (even as low as 70/30), so you might be pleasantly surprised. A centered 8 would likely sell for more than one on the edge of too OC for the grade given current market preferences, but will still outsell raw with fewer hassles.
You could also post some pictures here and the community could give you what they think it will grade.
Thank you everyone. I appreciate your time and advice.
I did sign up for PSA's Silver membership. I figure that would be a good place to start. I am trying to be picky about what I have to send in to get graded. At $12 per card, it adds up quick.
Do they ever open up the Gold and Platinum member levels?
Again, thank you for your time.
They will re-open them. I have heard next year. They need to catch up on the tremendous backlog of submissions they already have first. I actually have 7 separate subs in now with only one getting close to being done (i.e., QA2 status).
welcome!
seems you're on the right path. best thing to do when getting started is to always ask questions.
just remember "buy the card, not the flip" bc there are countless examples of a strong, well centered psa 7 out selling a psa 8 or even a 9 on those rare occasions.
no matter what the grade though, if it brings you joy then you've been successful!
Blurryface, can you elaborate on what "buy the card, not the flip" means?
Thank you.
of course. these are both psa 5s, right?
while both are numerically the same on the flip (psa label), one clearly is superior to the other.
conversely, which would you rather have out of these two?
this psa 5
or this psa 6?
fyi: the psa 5 sold for $1k. the higher graded psa 6 only sold for $885.
this is what is meant by "buy the card, not the flip".
not only is it meant that not all grades are created the same. but you also can't expect to get that centered 5 for the average cost of a psa 5 which is around $550.
that particular 5 went for almost twice what other 5s go for and outperformed a ton of 6s too.
to bring it back full circle and answer your op, yes you should worry about psa 7s when they are centered and exceed the technical grade and perhaps not worry about off centered 8s and 9s. centered cards w/ strong eye appeal tend to be a lot easier to sell as well.
Thanks Blurry, that makes sense. Not all with the same numerical grade are equal.
welcome to the boards.
anytime! and when in doubt on a card, post it here.
it's better to ask questions, get non biased opinions and keep your money, than be prideful, take an unnecessary risk & go broke.
for the most part, it's a pretty inviting and certainly a knowledgeable base of collectors here. you caught me on a good day! 😉
and again, welcome to the board.