Your 1990 Lincoln is a Philadelphia cent. The 1990 No S Lincoln is a proof, yours is a business strike meant for circulation. Yours is in great shape, but it is one of over 6.8 billion minted.
The 1990 No S Proof looks like this.
@robec when i put this penny next to the Phillies 1990s there is a very distinct difference in the finish. This has the frosted look to it where the others are plain and smooth. I'm not sure how you can tell I know the photos aren't the best.
Have you bought a copy of "The Guide Book of United States Coins" (the Red Book) or a copy of "The Handbook of United States Coins" (the Blue Book? If you haven't you need to do so and read it cover to cover.
Unfortunately, the coins you are showing have little or no value over face value. I hope you are not being misled by some of the online "pocket change finds" websites.
If these coins are what you want to collect that is fine as long as you understand that none of the coins you have posted photos of have much if any real numismatic value. The 1990 is not a proof it is a business strike that has counting machine damage on the lower portion of the coat and shoulder. It is not uncommon for well struck business strikes to have shinny surfaces but if you see a proof in hand you will see the difference.
@AUandAG that dime seems to be an error the edge or rim on the dime is copper colored too. I'll see if I can find anything out about it searching around.
Your 1954-S is not a proof coin in 1954 proofs were only minted in Philadelphia and have no mint mark on them, this is just a run of the mill low grade mint state 1954-S and its not a double die either.
If you are buying these coins you need to stop now before you spend another penny because you don't have the knowledge you need to know what you are buying.
@1992coin said: @AUandAG that dime seems to be an error the edge or rim on the dime is copper colored too. I'll see if I can find anything out about it searching around.
Your coin was sanded/ground/abraded. You're seeing the exposed copper layer that was exposed when the coin was damaged. It's not an error
Many of your coins are damaged and others are not proofs. It is very useful for a new collector who is interested in errors and varieties to learn as much as they can about the minting process and errors in general. I strongly recommend you visit the following sites and study the information
Wexler’s doubled die site has an excellent section about worthless mechanical doubling and error-ref is edited by some of the top error specialists in the country. Look at these sites and start soaking it in. And don’t forget, learning about the coins and the minting process takes time.
Before you buy another coin, you should buy a copy of A Guide Book of United States Coins, commonly called the redbook. While it’s primarily a price guide, it’s filled with a tremendous amount of information about US coins. It will be the best $10-15 you’ll ever spend on the hobby
Thank you. My book should arrive any day. I inherited the collection and haven't even began to go through it all. These were the oddball stuff that got me curious.
When that Red Book comes in, read it cover to cover. If you’re serious about getting into the hobby, you’ll find it to be a good read. Sometimes before bed I’ll take it out and look up stuff that I don’t even collect just to educate myself.
@jmlanzaf no I inherited this collection. These are oddball coins that I found interesting and wanted to share. The collection has a lot of mint proof coins and sets collectors like to see I just haven't gotten there yet. And even though a lot of these oddballs coins are more/less damaged I still think they are cool and will keep them.
@coinbuf i did not buy them. so from what I can find on Ebay the 1954 double die sells for $10 up to a few hundred. The "double die" images on the ones I looked at were not very well defined. Then there is the possibility of false advertising too.
I would love to find a quality DD with the date digits that jump right out of themselves, almost side by side. If this collection doesn't have one I'm definitely going to search around the market.
This is a 1948 Denver's penny that is labeled "Capped die"
No, it is a coin that someone messed with. Notice that metal has been moved around (on both sides). I am tempted to call it whizzed, but it was awfully done. Perhaps someone practiced whizzing. Spend it.
Member: EAC, NBS, C4, CWTS, ANA
RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'
I think a lot of your questions will be answered after you get the Red Book and start comparing the pictures there with your coins. The PCGS web site and Coinfacts are also good first resources.
Above all, enjoy!
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
@Sonorandesertrat I looked around at some more online photos and if anything I would say it looks more like a filled or grease die more than it would a capped die. Or its fraudulent like you said. I just got my book so I'll learn more after reading that I suppose.
Here is a 1940 that is labeled "foreign plachet for sure" now I haven't even begun to research foreign plachet coins so I don't know yet just sharing the picture.
@streeter I didn't collect these. The coins I am showing here are part of a collection I inherited, they were in an envelope separate from the main collection, (the certified suff).
It appears the person who formed the collection and wrote on the holders did not have the knowledge to classify them correctly.
They were definitely excited about varieties, though.
The classic doubled die coin is the 1955 Lincoln Cent. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1955-1c-doubled-die-obverse-rd/2827
They are available at most coin shows, although they are not cheap, because they are in demand.
Other good ones in the Lincoln Cent series are the 1909 VDB DDO, and the 1917 DDO.
You can see great photos of a large number of doubled dies here: https://www.doubleddie.com/228401.html
Many have a very small offset and are difficult to see without high magnification.
Thank you @yosclimber. I agree. I would love to have one of those 55s in the photos above. Most double dies I see are barely visible, especially to an untrained eye, they seem to sell between $1 up to a few hundred.
You take v good photos for a novice. You must have a great boss because you are on the internet constantly all day, everyday. You love seeing this thread on the first page don't you? But it Pushes others off the first page. When it sags you bump it to the top. Be aware of your bumps more than once a day.
58 Years ago I started collecting Lincoln's from pocket change. Only then my goal was 1911-s cents because I found that I could get one silver dollar for one 11-s cent. I admire your tenacity. But how about you channel it constructively. I don't believe your Lincoln's at this point are worth more than one cent. Why don't you acquire Lincoln's and Indians that can be bought inexpensively that need a good photographer & try to sell them with your photography. I think you might be successful. You can also learn to grade this way. Learning to grade is very important. You'll be on your way.
I'd like to see you try. Study PCGS photograde online first.
@streeter have you read this whole thread? Did you miss the post explaining I inherited these NOT purchased them and these are coins separate from the certified coins. I'm just sharing the photos no need to get any strange impressions about it. Several members have already provided me great advice and I'm following it. Thank you for the compliment on the photos. Also: I'm online all the time because I never log out by habit. And as far as being on the first page I have no idea what you are trying to imply there, I've not left the thread since I started it.
Here, this is for you.
@ChrisH821 I'm not ignoring anyone I'm just sharing pictures okay? Here: this is for you
1992coin
Posts: 63 ✭✭
Comments
The pictures posted out of order : /
Put them all on the table and take one pic of front and one of back. Fun to collect, 'eh??
Why collect that damaged dime, am I missing something?
bob
It's not just any damaged dime. It's the 2016-P damaged dime.
My 1990 no mint San Fran ciso
Here we go.
Your 1990 Lincoln is a Philadelphia cent. The 1990 No S Lincoln is a proof, yours is a business strike meant for circulation. Yours is in great shape, but it is one of over 6.8 billion minted.
The 1990 No S Proof looks like this.
- Bob -
"Central Valley" Roosevelts
MPL's - Lincolns of Color
@robec when i put this penny next to the Phillies 1990s there is a very distinct difference in the finish. This has the frosted look to it where the others are plain and smooth. I'm not sure how you can tell I know the photos aren't the best.
Have you bought a copy of "The Guide Book of United States Coins" (the Red Book) or a copy of "The Handbook of United States Coins" (the Blue Book? If you haven't you need to do so and read it cover to cover.
Unfortunately, the coins you are showing have little or no value over face value. I hope you are not being misled by some of the online "pocket change finds" websites.
Yours is not a proof. The photos are fine.
Yours is a business strike like these.
- Bob -
"Central Valley" Roosevelts
MPL's - Lincolns of Color
If these coins are what you want to collect that is fine as long as you understand that none of the coins you have posted photos of have much if any real numismatic value. The 1990 is not a proof it is a business strike that has counting machine damage on the lower portion of the coat and shoulder. It is not uncommon for well struck business strikes to have shinny surfaces but if you see a proof in hand you will see the difference.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Definitely not a proof 1990....Good luck in your searches.... Cheers, RickO
Thank you guys I still have much to sort through.
I just realized that my Indian head penny is either an error or somehow damaged.
They are damaged
Young Numismatist/collector
75 Positive BST transactions buying and selling with 45 members and counting!
instagram.com/klnumismatics
Better late than never.
@AUandAG that dime seems to be an error the edge or rim on the dime is copper colored too. I'll see if I can find anything out about it searching around.
Nice pics.
That's just a rim shot the rest are above @Jimnight . I know it's a bad picture either way.
Here is a 1954 mint proof coin. I have a ton of these but this is the only one that says double die. I took the best photos I could.
Is this a manufacturing issue?
PMD
-1
Top 10 Cal Fractional Type Set
successful BST with Ankurj, BigAl, Bullsitter, CommemKing, DCW(7), Elmerfusterpuck, Joelewis, Mach1ne, Minuteman810430, Modcrewman, Nankraut, Nederveit2, Philographer(5), Realgator, Silverpop, SurfinxHI, TomB and Yorkshireman(3)
Okay I have a few s mint 1954s that say double die.
Your 1954-S is not a proof coin in 1954 proofs were only minted in Philadelphia and have no mint mark on them, this is just a run of the mill low grade mint state 1954-S and its not a double die either.
If you are buying these coins you need to stop now before you spend another penny because you don't have the knowledge you need to know what you are buying.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Your coin was sanded/ground/abraded. You're seeing the exposed copper layer that was exposed when the coin was damaged. It's not an error
Many of your coins are damaged and others are not proofs. It is very useful for a new collector who is interested in errors and varieties to learn as much as they can about the minting process and errors in general. I strongly recommend you visit the following sites and study the information
www.Doubleddies.com
www.varietyvista.com
www.Error-ref.com
Wexler’s doubled die site has an excellent section about worthless mechanical doubling and error-ref is edited by some of the top error specialists in the country. Look at these sites and start soaking it in. And don’t forget, learning about the coins and the minting process takes time.
Before you buy another coin, you should buy a copy of A Guide Book of United States Coins, commonly called the redbook. While it’s primarily a price guide, it’s filled with a tremendous amount of information about US coins. It will be the best $10-15 you’ll ever spend on the hobby
Dang!! ‘92, some of your stuff is pretty sweet! Are you putting together a set of penny’s ?? Or are you just like, “if it’s sweet, I buy it!” ??
Thank you. My book should arrive any day. I inherited the collection and haven't even began to go through it all. These were the oddball stuff that got me curious.
This is a 1948 Denver's penny that is labeled "Capped die"
Nice pics.
Pete
I don't own any caped die coins.
Pete
I really don't.
You do like damaged coins.
I've got a hammer and a vice, can I interest you in buying some of my rarities?
When that Red Book comes in, read it cover to cover. If you’re serious about getting into the hobby, you’ll find it to be a good read. Sometimes before bed I’ll take it out and look up stuff that I don’t even collect just to educate myself.
MY GOLD TYPE SET https://pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/complete-type-sets/gold-type-set-12-piece-circulation-strikes-1839-1933/publishedset/321940
@jmlanzaf no I inherited this collection. These are oddball coins that I found interesting and wanted to share. The collection has a lot of mint proof coins and sets collectors like to see I just haven't gotten there yet. And even though a lot of these oddballs coins are more/less damaged I still think they are cool and will keep them.
@coinbuf i did not buy them. so from what I can find on Ebay the 1954 double die sells for $10 up to a few hundred. The "double die" images on the ones I looked at were not very well defined. Then there is the possibility of false advertising too.
I would love to find a quality DD with the date digits that jump right out of themselves, almost side by side. If this collection doesn't have one I'm definitely going to search around the market.
This is a 1948 Denver's penny that is labeled "Capped die"
No, it is a coin that someone messed with. Notice that metal has been moved around (on both sides). I am tempted to call it whizzed, but it was awfully done. Perhaps someone practiced whizzing. Spend it.
RMR: 'Wer, wenn ich schriee, hörte mich denn aus der Engel Ordnungen?'
CJ: 'No one!' [Ain't no angels in the coin biz]
I think a lot of your questions will be answered after you get the Red Book and start comparing the pictures there with your coins. The PCGS web site and Coinfacts are also good first resources.
Above all, enjoy!
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
Yeah but what's the point of having this wonderful forum if I don't share my stuff with everyone. 🙂
Here is a 1939. This penny looks kool as it reflects a brass color.
@Sonorandesertrat I looked around at some more online photos and if anything I would say it looks more like a filled or grease die more than it would a capped die. Or its fraudulent like you said. I just got my book so I'll learn more after reading that I suppose.
Here is a 1940 that is labeled "foreign plachet for sure" now I haven't even begun to research foreign plachet coins so I don't know yet just sharing the picture.
When coin collecting goes bad.
The PMD Collection. The gold standard.
*planchet
@streeter I didn't collect these. The coins I am showing here are part of a collection I inherited, they were in an envelope separate from the main collection, (the certified suff).
It appears the person who formed the collection and wrote on the holders did not have the knowledge to classify them correctly.
They were definitely excited about varieties, though.
The classic doubled die coin is the 1955 Lincoln Cent.
https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1955-1c-doubled-die-obverse-rd/2827
They are available at most coin shows, although they are not cheap, because they are in demand.
Other good ones in the Lincoln Cent series are the 1909 VDB DDO, and the 1917 DDO.
You can see great photos of a large number of doubled dies here:
https://www.doubleddie.com/228401.html
Many have a very small offset and are difficult to see without high magnification.
Thank you @yosclimber. I agree. I would love to have one of those 55s in the photos above. Most double dies I see are barely visible, especially to an untrained eye, they seem to sell between $1 up to a few hundred.
Let's see some of the slabbed coins. I think we have seen enough of the "oddball" coins.
Oh now I feel like an ass @291fifth
Wow, you finally found a genuine mint error!
58 Years ago I started collecting Lincoln's from pocket change. Only then my goal was 1911-s cents because I found that I could get one silver dollar for one 11-s cent. I admire your tenacity. But how about you channel it constructively. I don't believe your Lincoln's at this point are worth more than one cent. Why don't you acquire Lincoln's and Indians that can be bought inexpensively that need a good photographer & try to sell them with your photography. I think you might be successful. You can also learn to grade this way. Learning to grade is very important. You'll be on your way.
I'd like to see you try. Study PCGS photograde online first.
You seemed to have ignored my previous advice to pay no attention to anything written on the 2x2's in that collection
Collector, occasional seller
@streeter have you read this whole thread? Did you miss the post explaining I inherited these NOT purchased them and these are coins separate from the certified coins. I'm just sharing the photos no need to get any strange impressions about it. Several members have already provided me great advice and I'm following it. Thank you for the compliment on the photos. Also: I'm online all the time because I never log out by habit. And as far as being on the first page I have no idea what you are trying to imply there, I've not left the thread since I started it.
Here, this is for you.
@ChrisH821 I'm not ignoring anyone I'm just sharing pictures okay? Here: this is for you
Thank you!
The 1992 cent actually is off-center and would command a small premium over face value.
I still want to see the slabs.