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Grading Uncirculated Peace Dollars Question

TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,600 ✭✭✭✭✭

I acquired a number of uncirculated peace dollars. I know enough to look for the obvious things (wear on hair, top of Eagle) and I also know the general rule about distracting hits. But I’m not very knowledgeable about grading Peace dollars in general (I’ve only ever owned a couple before) and what I should be looking for other that hits. Any rules of thumb?

Comments

  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Luster and strike come to mind.... There is a book on these, A Guide Book of Peace Dollars
    by Roger W. Burdette, Barry Lovvorn, Q. David Bowers....You should get that for in depth study. Cheers, RickO

  • 1630Boston1630Boston Posts: 13,778 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @TurtleCat
    PCGS Photograde is a great resource https://www.pcgs.com/photograde

    Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb

    Bad transactions with : nobody to date

  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    The same rules apply for peace dollars as any other coin; however, in real life, these coins are tough to grade.

    So start with blazing luster and originality + strength of strike and the absence of contact marks = eye appeal.

    Some of the quick ways to learn is to examine coins that are already graded by a major TPGS, take a class, or find a person who specializes in these coins to guide you. I'm unfamiliar with the book that is recommended.

  • 1630Boston1630Boston Posts: 13,778 ✭✭✭✭✭


    The silver Peace dollar issued from 1921 through 1935 was a coin that commemorated the end of the most traumatic war in human history. In the Guide Book of Peace Dollars, award-winning author Roger W. Burdette explores these fascinating and collectible coins, covering every date and mintmark of America's last 90% silver dollar. He also studies the mysterious 1964-D Peace dollar, as well as Proofs, patterns, trial pieces, errors and misstrikes, countermarks, die varieties, and famous collections.

    Successful transactions with : MICHAELDIXON, Manorcourtman, Bochiman, bolivarshagnasty, AUandAG, onlyroosies, chumley, Weiss, jdimmick, BAJJERFAN, gene1978, TJM965, Smittys, GRANDAM, JTHawaii, mainejoe, softparade, derryb

    Bad transactions with : nobody to date

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,600 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I have used Photograde in the past but I found it lacking since it only shows one lighting angle and this series seems to have some challenging luster. I have a lot more experience grading Morgan dollars but everything I’ve seen says that Peace dollars have more “compromises” or perhaps “balance” in how they’re graded.

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,600 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Interesting. I know it would be a rule of thumb but still that could be a very useful one.

  • MercuryMercury Posts: 1,052 ✭✭✭✭

    The Peace Dollar Book by Roger Burdette is a great book for not only what to look for but the complete history of Peace Dollars. It tells you what to look out for for each grade and mint mark combination.
    Great Resource!

    Collecting Peace Dollars and Modern Crap.
  • jerseycat101jerseycat101 Posts: 1,346 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ChrisH821 said:
    In one sentence or less: If you grade a Peace Dollar like a Morgan, take away a point(or two) and you are probably right.

    I agree with this, and have used this grading principle for years.

    Frankly, the prices of certified common date coins support this theory. A common date Peace in 66 is about the same a common date Morgan in 67.

  • Collect4funCollect4fun Posts: 85 ✭✭✭

    They often have planchet spots, does this influence grade a lot?

  • BryceMBryceM Posts: 11,788 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 6, 2020 4:45PM

    IMO graders hate Peace dollars. They must. As has been said, grade them like you would a Morgan, then subtract at least a full point.

    The hardest part is the AU/MS split. Once you get past that, it’s much easier.

    Rookie mistakes are to focus too much on hits and not enough on luster and eye appeal. I’ve seen plenty of virtually spotless dollars in correctly graded 62 holders for dull, lifeless luster. There are also some really nice coins with a few hits in 66 and 67 holders. Acquire an understanding of this, and you’re on you’re way.

    Also, be aware that different issues have different common looks to them, especially the 21. 1934/35 coins just look “different” than the early Philly coins.

  • hchcoinhchcoin Posts: 4,829 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Great post @ChrisH821

  • TurtleCatTurtleCat Posts: 4,600 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Thanks for the advice everyone. A couple of these dollars have some booming luster. Maybe I’ll give it a try and see what happens.

  • Insider2Insider2 Posts: 14,452 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Collect4fun said:
    They often have planchet spots, does this influence grade a lot?

    It ruins the eye appeal for me so I "kill" the grade. However, the folks who know much more about the commercial coin market than I do frequently ignore them. :(

  • Collect4funCollect4fun Posts: 85 ✭✭✭

    @Insider2 said:

    @Collect4fun said:
    They often have planchet spots, does this influence grade a lot?

    It ruins the eye appeal for me so I "kill" the grade. However, the folks who know much more about the commercial coin market than I do frequently ignore them. :(

    I’m surprised at how many ms 66-67 have them. I agree with you but it must be accepted that they occur because of the treatment the planchets received

  • SmudgeSmudge Posts: 9,474 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Peace Dollars are tough for me. I have trouble with strike v wear. Same with O mint Morgans.

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