7070 Dansco question(s)

toyz4geo

Hey all.

I've watched over the years discussions relating to the 7070 Dansco and always thought that might be an interesting challenge. Long story short, I just bought one. Not delivered yet but now I have a few questions.

What would be the best source of type coins to fill it with? Crack out of slabs or buy raw? If I crack out of slabs should I keep the inserts? (I realize they become raw as soon as they come out of the plastic). I would like to maintain a nice balanced look and I realize some of the are going to be a bit pricey.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

George

oih82w8

I have my 7070 partially filled with Chinese fakes. Personally, I would not crack TPG slabs to fill an album. I would use eye appealing raw coins to fill holes in an album. Great choice btw for starting a type set!

david3142

I have been collecting/upgrading my 7070 for the last 18 years. I used to buy primarily raw coins for the album or an occasional slabbed one. For the expensive ones it is nice to have some assurance for originality and grade. At this point though, I rarely attend shows so all I can do is buy nice slabbed coins and crack them. I save the inserts and pictures of the slabbed coins. I also add them to my registry database so I have a record of them.

ricko

Your collection, your choice.... I have always felt, that since the coins were going in an album, I would purchase raw coins...Be careful though, authenticity is an issue on some coins....Cheers, RickO

Sonorandesertrat

I have played with a 7070 album for years. When slabs appeared, I started buying graded coins for this set, removing them from the slabs for insertion into the album, and also retaining the inserts. I taped the inserts to the insides of the album covers. I did make some quirky substitutions, using a contemporary counterfeit in some cases, a chop marked Trade dollar, a counter stamped early large cent, a Hard Times token, a Civil War token struck over an Indian Head cent, and some error coins for recent issues. One of the Liberty Seated quarters is a coin my paternal grandmother gave me about 50 years ago. This kind of set readily lends itself to customization--make yours something distinctive. I remember seeing a set filled with coins that had holes. If you have the funds, work on the optional gold page too.

Regarding what grades to use, that is up to you. I would not put red coppers in this kind of album, because coins will tend to tone. If you want a proof example, use something cheap, and don't directly touch the coin with a finger while inserting it into a page. Some of the pages have holes that may not fit their intended coins well---be flexible, and don't be afraid to make your own thin shims to keep some coins from rotating. The edges of the clear plastic windows are a bit rough, so be VERY careful with thicker/bigger coins (halves, dollars, double eagles) or you may damage them (look up 'slide marks') when sliding the windows. This album does not include anything terribly expensive as long as you stay with circulated coins. In fact, you could probably buy everything for an album in a day or two. So take your time, and have fun with it.

The hardest coin to find with decent surfaces will likely be the Classic Head large cent.

seanq

There is no single right way to fill a type set album. I prefer mine with mid-grade circulated pieces, others here have cracked slabbed coins and taped the inserts to the inside back cover. Before making any purchases, consider what your goals are for the set - are you looking at it as an investment, or something you can pull off the shelf end smile as you flip through the pages.

My suggestion is that if you want a balanced presentation, start with the most expensive coins, figure out what grades you can afford, then backfill the less expensive coins in similar condition.

Sean Reynolds

coinbuf

I have a mix of things, some I cracked from tpgs like NNC or ACG some of the early copper is not original but doesn't have an obvious bad look. My grades go from UNC for the modern stuff to VF details on the expensive older coins, I generally don't like coins under the VF grade as the coins details are often difficult to see at grades lower than that. I have an AU flyer in an old small white ANACS slab that I bought to crack out and put in the album but just haven't been able to bring myself to kill the old slab yet . Maybe I'll find one of the remaining three coins I need for the album at the Mesa show this weekend.

ajaan

I have bought coins in ICG and ANACS holders and cracked them out to put in my 7070. I also tape the labels to the inside cover. My coins are mainly in Fine condition.

messydesk

Buy most of the coins raw, but there'll probably be a few you'll end up buying slabbed merely as an authenticity guarantee and cracking. You can get vinyl pages that fit into a Dansco album into which you could put the tags and/or photos of the coin in the slab for any coins you crack out.

OldGold

I'm currently working on a PCGS Registry 7070, so all my coins are slabbed. Biggest downside is no physical album to display them in.

sparky64

Mine completed album is raw other than cutting up a bicentennial mint set.
I was ready to have to crack a slab or two for a certain few coins but it never came to that.
Enjoy!

Barberian

My 7070 consists of raw, mid-grade coins, including coins (1809 half cent, 1854 large cent) given to me from my grandfather that he dug up in his garden on Long Island many years ago. I also have a 1955-S cent found in rolls brought back from California by my father, and a 1921 Mercury dime that I found in circulation as a child.

A 7070 can be anything you want it to be.

DRUNNER

Here in SLC a credit union President worked for years on a superb 7070 of ALL counterfeits. It was EPIC. The most disturbing was a 1926-S Buffalo in what appeared to be Gem-Unc. It was completely perfect . . . . .except when you got a chance to look at the very MINOR disturbance on the rim outside of the mintmark (embossed). Had a nice XF 1916-D Merc from Hoffman . . . the toughest by far were the moderns. Try to find a counterfeit clad quarter . . . . .

I love the 7070. I put together a toned album where I had cracked a few and found a few raw. I could bring it to a show of 40-50 tables and it would grind the show to a halt if I sent it back for dealers to look at it. Fun album . . . . . .

Totally agree on the Classic Large Cent. That is 'the' coin . . .

Drunner

Sonorandesertrat

I have been seriously considering a go at doing a second 7070 album using nothing but contemporary counterfeits (including the gold page), but I am concerned that counterfeit clad coinage would be a stopper.

lkenefic

I'm on my third iteration of the 7070. I'm going for an overall slightly circulated set (XF-AU) which includes raw and cracked coins, and a few MS coins since many are not that much more expensive. On a few instances where there are two coins next to each other representing minor variations (SLQ's, Buffalo 5c, LSQ's, etc), I'll try to get one in AU-MS and the others in XF to illustrate how those coins wear. I typically tape the insert on the back of the page and I've liberated PCGS, NGC, ICG, and ANACS graded coins. The plastic doesn't matter to me.

Some of the coins in my set were given to me by my grandfather when I was about 12 yo (Morgan 1$), some were bargain bin finds (VF) that served as fillers until I upgraded, some are from mint sets (moderns), and still others I've plucked from circulation... can't beat the price ;-)

There are a few dealers in coppers that mainly deal in raw coins... they have slabbed pieces as well, but it seems as though a significant percentage of really nice copper isn't slabbed. Be patient for a Classic Head LC. I've had several over the years... currently 0... and I've never been pleased with any of them because of surface corrosion or other problems. As a result, I'll likely end up spending more on this one coin in VF that I'll likely spend on a nice AU Liberty Seated Dollar...

Be patient... and happy searching...

savitale

I have several albums, including a type set, and really enjoy them. Lower priced coins (think Mercury and Roosevelt dimes) I bought raw. Higher priced coins I purchased in slabs and cracked them. At this point, I am very suspicious of any high value raw coin. After collecting a number of them I send the labels back in so the TPGs can adjust the population numbers.

slider23

If you are doing gold, buy slab and crack out and buy slab for the Trade Dollar as too many fakes.

The toughest coins:
Original surface Liberty Dollars with eye appeal
Classic Head Large Cent with original skin and problem free (I looked over a year for this one in VF30 or 35 never found one I liked and I ended up buying a AU50 for more money than my budget) Many of these are straight graded with corrosion, scratches, and cleaning
Draped Bust Large Cent with original skin and problem free

Have Fun