OPINIONS PLEASE : BEST TYPE OF PHYISICAL GOLD TO BUY
Mike59
Posts: 319 ✭✭✭
I wanted thoughts on the best type of Physical gold to buy. I used to believe US gold coins were the best type of gold to collect for both investment and history. Now that I have bought US gold $20's for a while Ive watched the premiums disappear on lower MS (MS-63 and lower) coins. So the question for the board is: what kind of gold do you buy for collecting and growing your wealth ? Stay the course and continue with the Saints and Liberties Or Buffalo and AGE's. Just Curious.
Thanks,
Mike
MIKE B.
0
Comments
Only Gold buffs and American Gold Eagles for me.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
Same as DerryB, I stick with AGEs and Buffalos primarily as a hedge. With AGEs, I like to mix all different sizes as well. Fractional Buffs are very expensive so I only buy 1 oz. Buffalos.
I have some pre-33 US gold that I love not just for the gold content, but the history. Something special about holding a 100+ year old gold coin that has survived wars, economic turmoil, and natural disasters.
MY GOLD TYPE SET https://pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/complete-type-sets/gold-type-set-12-piece-circulation-strikes-1839-1933/publishedset/321940
I agree with the first two posters. Unless you have significant experience you best stick with the most predictable, reliable and easily disposable gold.
Better yet for authenticity if it is graded by NGC or PCGS 69 for nearly/or the same price.
Same as above SAE and GAE
Paul
Gold eagles, maples, and krugs. pre-33 (any denomination XF or better) at spot or below
The whole worlds off its rocker, buy Gold™.
When the price is right I will also buy the American Art Medallion series gold produced by the US Mint prior to starting the gold eagle series in 1986. The art rounds can often be had for a very decent price because of their lack of popularity.
A limited series for those who seek to collect a nice set.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
american art medallions are hard to get rid of
Ask the person your going to be selling to. If there is only one local buyer, know what their bid/ask premiums are on certain products. These are bound to move around depending on market, but best to know what they like to stock and are willing to pay a bit extra to get in.
Be sure to evaluate your "all out" cost, ie. shipping, fees, etc.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
And the earlier ones didn't even have the word gold or the amount stamped on them... so helps contribute to why it is more difficult to sell them.
While best to stick with the standards mentioned before such as the American Gold Eagles, nothing wrong with $5 gold commems below melt... if purchased with original packages less concerns about counterfeits, and a well known and accepted purity.
$5 commems stack nicely too.
So do gold spouses if you can figure out how they can get along due to unattractive spousal bickering.
Thank You everybody. There is allot of information and brain power here.
MIKE B.
you gotta do these at melt
Shouldnt have too look hard either. If you have a relationship with a B&M, just ask for them at melt. Wholesale the commemns trade at 99.5% of melt. Saves them shipping and the hassle of meeting an order minimum.
I stack AGE's and ASE's.....I do have some old Double Eagles that I picked up years ago... and the error gold coins as well. My stacking is mainly for liquidity should the SHTF...and much of that was stacked years ago at low, low prices. Cheers, RickO
1) Gold with the lowest bid/ask over spot
2) Gold that has the most demand
3) Gold that can be bought or sold locally (no shipping or auction fees)
4) Gold that gets preferential higher IRS reporting thresholds:
Maple Leaf, Onzas, Kruggerand and US eagles & Buffalos.
Most gold bullion choices will do well if the auction and shipping route can be eliminated.
Considering today's low or no premium I vote for.....
1) pre-1933 classic US $5, $10 and $20
2) modern $5 commemoratives
3) British Sovereigns , Swiss 20 Francs France 20 Francs
but what do I know
it's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide
American Gold Eagle, Canadian Maple Leaf, British Sovereign, pre-1933 Saint Gaudens and Liberty...all at the lowest premium over spot that you can find while still in great condition.
Jinx86 Posts: 3,306 ✭✭✭✭✭
Shouldn't have too look hard either. If you have a relationship with a B&M
What is a B&M?
MIKE B.
B&M = Brick and Mortar. Meaning a coin shop/ PM dealer.
MY GOLD TYPE SET https://pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/complete-type-sets/gold-type-set-12-piece-circulation-strikes-1839-1933/publishedset/321940
GML OZS but be prepared for lower returns consistent with their lower premiums on over the counter sales.
I buy AGE AND AGB for
Short term plays.
Best of luck to you.
TY Downtown1974. I buy most of my PM for LCS. Last week I bought a $20 Liberty in MS-61 for $8 over melt. I thought that was pretty good.
MIKE B.
Was it 8 over melt or spot? This can get tricky sometimes when working with numis gold as they contain .9675oz of actual gold.
For stacking purposes - mostly AGEs of each size and Gold Buffs, but I've added some Sovereigns & Maples at different stops along the way.
I knew it would happen.
This is my strategy. I buy a lot of $2.5s so i look for anything slabbed close to spot.
I use to be able to buy Swiss/French 20 francs under melt on eBay before they started charging me 6.35% tax... so I’ve been buying them on forums for spot since then.
AGEs and ASEs; and a dabble here and there of the main bullion coin from other countries mints.
Buy everything you see in this picture...
...
I have pre33 gold, some slabbed some not, US Mint bullion age and commems, some first spouse, and foreign, mostly Mexican, Canadian $10 from their vault, some south Africa. I like it all and if shtf I have different sizes to bribe the guards, and if it doesn't my kids will have a nice time or maybe I will.
Successful transactions here and ATS with: jwitten, Rob41281, bajjerfan, cucamongacoin, Jim F., physics-fan3.14, x2rider, Wahoo554, Weather11am, Relaxn, jimineez1, Ronyahski, Bliggity, SurfinxHI, McGrump (thru BAJJERFAN), ms71, Downtown1974, ad4400
I have some AGE's and Buffalo's and numerous pre-1933 US gold coins. I also have a few miscellaneous gold coins---foreign gold coins, First Spouse, US gold commemorates, etc. One thing I don't buy are those one ounce gold bars from the various bullion companies because they are being heavily counterfeited.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
@Jinx86 said Was it 8 over melt or spot? This can get tricky sometimes when working with numis gold as they contain .9675oz of actual gold.
I pulled out the reciept for the $20 gold (my date was off ) Last week I bought a PCGS AU55 Indian $10 but here are the numbers.
Gold closed at $1528 on 08-29-19 (not sure of the price when I saked LCS for the coin)
I paid $1480 for PCGS graded MS-61 1907-S. Do you think i did good ?
Last week 09-19-19 gold closed at $1501
1911 $10 Indian PCGS AU-55
Paid $760 but I wanted a $10 indian ( its my first ) lol
I think my LCS is very fair with me. What do you think?
Thank You all for my tutition free education !
MIKE B.
a double eagle has 0.9675 toz of gold
AGE'S or 1 oz. bars in sealed blister packs, both of these options are easy to liquidate, jmo.
AGE's in PCGS-69 via Tulving (well, 14 years ago, that is).
Question here: I own AGEs and Buffalos. I can kind of see where gold 1 gram and 2 gram "bars" might be useful in a genuine SHTF hyperinflation. Has anybody ever bought one of those thin 50 gram gold bars where it is divided in 50 one gram sections? Kind of a Swiss or German product. If purchased, this would go into my last ditch, insurance holdings, not really anticipating liquidation in my normal lifetime. Anybody have such a thing or have any idea what "brand name" is best?
Valcambi Bars.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
These are kinda cool.
Pamp multigram assay sheets.
Each bar is 2.5 g in an assay card you can snap off as needed.. Each row a different metal.
Au
Pt
Pd
Ag
I had zero marketability for bars
of any sort in the shop.
Wholesaled all.
among us mint gold, the spouses probably give you the biggest bang for the buck.
"Interest rates, the price of money, are the most important market. And, perversely, they’re the market that’s most manipulated by the Fed." - Doug Casey
Pretty decent demand now a days. Cheaper premium than Eagles or Maples so tend to sell more bars than Gov Rounds for the moment. Some of the less common weights are neat to keep around if you can hedge the ounces, stuff like 10 Tola(3.75ozt), 50 gram, 25 gram, 100 gram, or any baht weights.
Turnaround cost is important if anyone is stacking more than piddly amounts.
Eagles and Buffalos are constant products in all shops.
So too are Maples and Rands. Phillies, not so much but still in demand by the .999 crowd.
That's probably true.... "nowadays." Back in my day, they were a hard sell.
You also have the "smelter" advantage and can hedge many ways.
I traded 15 1 Oz bars in assay last ear to a B&M for 15 20161 Oz Maples for $10 each. IMO one of my better trades.
I Just spit out a lung laughing. We get it Raw, you are not a bullion fan. LOL.
1oz Krugerrands are my fav, due to the very low premium above spot.
Dave