Which, if any, of these are worthy of submitting for grading?

Lindsay1587

Just trying to figure out of any of these coins are actually WORTH submitting. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT!!!

Lindsay1587

Sorry, these are the pictures a 1838 reeded edge half dollar

And 1826 capped bust half

1885 morgan

1794 flowing hair large cent

291fifth

I wouldn't submit any of them for grading.

The 1838 Half should sell at a reasonable price raw. It would not bring enough slabbed to make the cost of slabbing worthwhile.

The 1826 Half looks cleaned.

The 1885 Morgan is just another common date Morgan. Slabbing would not bring enough extra to justify the cost.

The 1794 Large cent, like the 1838 Half, should bring a reasonable price raw because it has decent head detail (though little else) to recommend it to a budget minded collector.

ricko

I agree with @291fifth....Cheers, RickO

david3142

I hope I’m wrong but I think they are all counterfeit.

thisistheshow

@Lindsay1587A lot of the time giving some perspective helps the forum help you better. Are you a new collector? Did you inherit or buy these coins? Sometimes the type of coins you present here are best bought already graded by a new collector so that the collector has time to learn the nuances of a particular series, and what is cleaned, etc.

ARCO

It is fun and rewarding to find a raw coin and see it get into a respectable holder and have it add value to the coin. Then there is sending coins off, paying a bunch of fees and being underwater and the coins worth the same.

IMO, these coins are the latter.

Lindsay1587

Im new to collecting and definitely need some pointers!!! Ive already lost on almost every purchase ive made, but have begun learning from my mistakes, but could really use some advice as to how to tell if a raw coin is worth my purchasing it, aside from checking the red book, and pcgs coinfacts and photograde, before hand... i need to figure out how to start turning my collection into something that i can successfully invest, trade, sell, and PROFIT from... so far, ive just thrown money away... and i need some more help educating myself.

Hemispherical

@Lindsay1587 said:
Im new to collecting and definitely need some pointers!!! Ive already lost on almost every purchase ive made, but have begun learning from my mistakes, but could really use some advice as to how to tell if a raw coin is worth my purchasing it, aside from checking the red book, and pcgs coinfacts and photograde, before hand... i need to figure out how to start turning my collection into something that i can successfully invest, trade, sell, and PROFIT from... so far, ive just thrown money away... and i need some more help educating myself.

So your no longer want to be a hobbyist, coin collector. You want to become a dealer? You want to make money?

JBK

If you want to make money by buying raw and getting coins slabbed, you are playing a game that even many experienced collectors could not excel at.

WCC

@JBK said:
If you want to make money by buying raw and getting coins slabbed, you are playing a game that even many experienced collectors could not excel at.

+1

I have been a collector most of my life, on and off for 44 years. I don't collect US coins but still know more about it than most US based collectors. Concurrently, I would probably lose most of my "investment" if I attempted to do what the OP is trying to do.

There isn't a faster way of losing money than "investing" in something when you don't know what you are doing.

lkeigwin

The 1826 bust half is counterfeit, cast from an O.108a.

@Lindsay1587 should stop buying raw coins if he wants to avoid losing a lot of money. Buy slabbed coins from credible TPG's (third party graders) to lose less money.
Lance.

JBK

@lkeigwin said:
The 1826 bust half is counterfeit, cast from an O.108a.

@Lindsay1587 should stop buying raw coins if he wants to avoid losing a lot of money. Buy slabbed coins from credible TPG's (third party graders) to lose less money.
Lance.

I didn't know whether to give this a Like or a LOL.

Aside from identifying a counterfeit (right down to the variety used as the model), this line is the most fitting in this situation:

Buy slabbed coins from credible TPG's (third party graders) to lose less money.

If the OP wants to dabble in dealing, maybe they should start by buying and selling only slabbed coins. Once that becomes profitable, the cherrypicking of raw coins can come later.

lkenefic

Regardless of why you're getting into this hobby, you must first learn to grade and to recognize fake coins. Grading is the most important skill, as well as: recognizing current stock on the market, what is likely to become available in the future, taking into consideration fluctuations in precious metals, other market considerations, and probably the price of tea in China.

That's why I'm glad to be a collector...

ChrisH821

My general rule is, as a collector, expect to lose probably 10-20% on every purchase(graded), that way if you do break even it's an event to be happy about. If you come out ahead, then celebrate. Also as a collector, consider grading fees a sunk cost. Coin collecting can be expensive...

WCC

@ChrisH821 said:
My general rule is, as a collector, expect to lose probably 10-20% on every purchase(graded), that way if you do break even it's an event to be happy about. If you come out ahead, then celebrate. Also as a collector, consider grading fees a sunk cost. Coin collecting can be expensive...

I'd say losing 10% to 20% is far below average, though it obviously depends upon what is bought, the holding period and if bought at or near current "market value". I'd consider your percentages to be representative of coins bought by members on this forum, if bought and then sold almost immediately. Once again, some better but most probably not.

For the coins bought by the "typical" US based collector of US coinage, the 40% back of retail paid by dealers I visited back in the late 1970's is probably more representative. I haven't looked hard but in my limited eBay searches, I have also seen low grade circulated classics sell for less than the values listed in my 1977 Red Book. This was for common date IHC. Paying anything near Krause catalog for most world coinage will also likely result in a noticeable or outsized proportional loss.

Lindsay1587

Honestly, i collect because im enamoured with the coins... each one is so beautiful in its own way! Id just like to be able to buy a few, every once in a while, with the intent of making enough profit to maybe payfor my next few purchases for my collection... i appreciate the advice!

oldgoldlover

I would decide what coins you what to collect such as old dollars or early gold coins that are AU that are low in number. I feel reading good coin books and look as much as you can at the type of coins you chose to collect. Heritage Auctions ( HA.com ) archives is a great place to look at nice coins all the way to harshly cleaned. Stick with nice coins and but the highest coins you can afford.

IMO a small collection of nice coins that are hard to come by beats a bucket full of commons like a rented mule. In the the long run you will enjoy what you have more and do better from an investment standpoint.

Everyone makes mistakes that does anything. Turning them into learning experiences will help you make better decisions in the long run.