What are the best consignment options?

Rofles

So, I’m not an eBay seller. I don’t have the time to start one. That being said, what would be
The best for consignment options under he following conditions:

Raw cards (single and bulk) - I was thinking Greg Morris?

Graded cards (I’m building some bulk submissions, purchasing a membership soon), I was leaning towards consigning with PWCC. Also thinking of bulk graded cards;

I inquired with Greg Morris regarding selling graded cards; they stated that typically a card needs to grade higher than an 8 in most cases. Although exceptions are made based on whose card it is.

I haven’t mentioned Probstein because it seems there more horror stories with them than anyone else. I know PWCC is most well known, but am I wrong about Probstein? Any and all input is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

daltex

What are the cards worth?

Rofles

@daltex said:
What are the cards worth?

Almost all cards I have I’m hoping to get a PSA 7 or higher. I also have appx 100 1971 Black border, I’m also hoping to get Atleast a 7 or higher on. I have hundreds of 1981 topps baseball rack pack/cello pack fresh in what I consider pristine condition with almost all properly sleeved for sending in.

Hard times require action I don’t want to take, but necessary. Hope this helps!

Edit: I guess I didn’t really answer your question. Graded worth anywhere from 25$ to lets say $750?

JoeBanzai

@Rofles said:
I haven’t mentioned Probstein because it seems there more horror stories with them than anyone else. I know PWCC is most well known, but am I wrong about Probstein? Any and all input is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

He lost some of my items (packing list was included) refused to do anything at all to make up for it, then insulted me.

This was about $100.00 set.

SDSportsFan

I just consigned a few hundred graded cards to PWCC in their April auction, and did well. While there were a few disappointing individual results, I am very pleased with how it went overall, with some cards far-exceeding my expectations.

I haven't dealt with anyone regarding raw cards. I have heard though, that Just Collect in New Jersey seems to be a good company to deal with. I believe they buy the cards outright, as opposed to taking them on consignment. I would check with them in addition to Greg Morris.

Steve

rbsalezman

electrode

I find that Greg Morris grades his raw cards that he sells on Ebay the best.

PROMETHIUS88

@Rofles said:

@daltex said:
What are the cards worth?

Almost all cards I have I’m hoping to get a PSA 7 or higher. I also have appx 100 1971 Black border, I’m also hoping to get Atleast a 7 or higher on. I have hundreds of 1981 topps baseball rack pack/cello pack fresh in what I consider pristine condition with almost all properly sleeved for sending in.

Hard times require action I don’t want to take, but necessary. Hope this helps!

Edit: I guess I didn’t really answer your question. Graded worth anywhere from 25$ to lets say $750?

So are you selling the 71 Topps and 81 Topps raw or graded??

My experiences : I sent a bunch of graded cards in that were lower dollar to Probstein and had no issues whatsoever. It was just stuff that I was tired of looking at and didn't want to take the time to list on Ebay. Again, everything went smooth.

I sent, I think 500-600 cards to Morris. They were very helpful and explained the process up front. When they tell you to be selective in what you send to them, they aren't kidding. I had probably 200 or slightly over returned to me. They look them over really good and if they don't meet their standards, back they come. I understand it and was fine with it. I sent in nearly 100 71 Topps cards as well and I would say most came back to me. Possibly due to centering, not sure, but they were nice. I had sent some to PSA and got 6-7.5's. Of course, PSA is brutal on those. They are not interested in listing a bunch of low $$ cards because it just isn't worth their time. Frankly, it doesn't do you any good either with the fees. I'm guessing they will sell the graded stuff for you as well, I didn't ask. They are the best option for selling sharp, raw cards on Ebay, imo.
And from what I remember, they weren't taking anything past say the mid 70's unless they were star cards.

I have never sent anything to PWCC, so others can discuss give you their opinions. I looked into it but thought the turnaround time was quite a bit, I don't know.

Not sure if this helps or not, but figured I would share my experiences. Best of luck whatever you decide to do!!

Rofles

Thank you all for the input!! I’m going to check all this out!

@PROMETHIUS88
The 81’s are all fresh ripped from what I bought through BBCE. I got a steal of a deal on an 81 vending box that’s BBCE FASC’d coming today; deciding if I want to go through it or not.

I’ve spent weeks looking at TONS of graded ‘71’s, and I believe the ones I have would grade between 7-9 for sure. Sharp corners, minor centering issues, etc. I can share some pics if you’d like. If they came back from psa like that I’d imagine the value would increased nicely, but I dunno.
I’m gonna call PWCC today and see what they say too. Also gonna check out just collect too! Thanks again everyone, the more info the merrier! 😊

PROMETHIUS88

@Rofles said:
Thank you all for the input!! I’m going to check all this out!

@PROMETHIUS88
The 81’s are all fresh ripped from what I bought through BBCE. I got a steal of a deal on an 81 vending box that’s BBCE FASC’d coming today; deciding if I want to go through it or not.

I’ve spent weeks looking at TONS of graded ‘71’s, and I believe the ones I have would grade between 7-9 for sure. Sharp corners, minor centering issues, etc. I can share some pics if you’d like. If they came back from psa like that I’d imagine the value would increased nicely, but I dunno.
I’m gonna call PWCC today and see what they say too. Also gonna check out just collect too! Thanks again everyone, the more info the merrier! 😊

Sure, we always love to see cards and there are some great eyes on the boards! I hope you have tons of PSA 9 71's. I personally think they are beautiful in 6-7 on up. I will say this, though, if you are comparing to other graded cards, make sure you are comparing to ones in newer holders. If you are looking at the older holders they may be an 8, for example, but those would be hard pressed to get a 7 today, imo. They have just gotten tougher on the series, which is good.

DBesse27

@Rofles said:
Thank you all for the input!! I’m going to check all this out!

@PROMETHIUS88
The 81’s are all fresh ripped from what I bought through BBCE. I got a steal of a deal on an 81 vending box that’s BBCE FASC’d coming today; deciding if I want to go through it or not.

I’ve spent weeks looking at TONS of graded ‘71’s, and I believe the ones I have would grade between 7-9 for sure. Sharp corners, minor centering issues, etc. I can share some pics if you’d like. If they came back from psa like that I’d imagine the value would increased nicely, but I dunno.
I’m gonna call PWCC today and see what they say too. Also gonna check out just collect too! Thanks again everyone, the more info the merrier! 😊

A little troubling that you’re subbing 71’s and only mentioned centering and corners, when the biggest issue with that set is the black borders. Before you spend a lot of money on grading, I would check them very carefully for any chipping and “snow.” Be your own harshest critic. If you “think” a card is “probably” an 8, it’s likely it’s a 7, or even a 6 with the wrong grader. Not being critical, obviously, since I haven’t seen the cards. I just know that set is notorious for delivering disappointing grades and don’t want to see you waste your money. I would narrow my submission pool if I were you, and I wouldn’t expect many 9’s, no matter how gorgeous a lot of them are in hand.

Rofles

@DBesse27 said:

@Rofles said:
Thank you all for the input!! I’m going to check all this out!

@PROMETHIUS88
The 81’s are all fresh ripped from what I bought through BBCE. I got a steal of a deal on an 81 vending box that’s BBCE FASC’d coming today; deciding if I want to go through it or not.

I’ve spent weeks looking at TONS of graded ‘71’s, and I believe the ones I have would grade between 7-9 for sure. Sharp corners, minor centering issues, etc. I can share some pics if you’d like. If they came back from psa like that I’d imagine the value would increased nicely, but I dunno.
I’m gonna call PWCC today and see what they say too. Also gonna check out just collect too! Thanks again everyone, the more info the merrier! 😊

A little troubling that you’re subbing 71’s and only mentioned centering and corners, when the biggest issue with that set is the black borders. Before you spend a lot of money on grading, I would check them very carefully for any chipping and “snow.” Be your own harshest critic. If you “think” a card is “probably” an 8, it’s likely it’s a 7, or even a 6 with the wrong grader. Not being critical, obviously, since I haven’t seen the cards. I just know that set is notorious for delivering disappointing grades and don’t want to see you waste your money. I would narrow my submission pool if I were you, and I wouldn’t expect many 9’s, no matter how gorgeous a lot of them are in hand.

I’m well aware of the black border issue, and I’m happy with the borders on these. Some have some rough cuts, but I’m fine with that too. Is the chipping due to the card having a rough cut?

PROMETHIUS88

Those appear to be very similar to what I subbed a few months back and they came back 6-7.5. Nary an 8 in the group. They are beautiful cards and on the right day you could get some hits, but as stated above, many people have been disappointed with grades on 71's..... I'm in that boat as well.

PaulMaul

Those are beautiful cards. What I learned when I submitted a bunch of these a few years ago is that a card like your Butler will almost always get a 7 as nice as it looks. When you can see any hint of white at multiple corners it equates to a 7.

Rofles

@PaulMaul said:
Those are beautiful cards. What I learned when I submitted a bunch of these a few years ago is that a card like your Butler will almost always get a 7 as nice as it looks. When you can see any hint of white at multiple corners it equates to a 7.

I see, I appreciate you talking some sense to me. I’m gonna change some things around on my end. Should I grade all my 81/82 stars if I’m going to sell, to get the best price (bulk submission)?

rcmb3220

@Rofles said:

@PaulMaul said:
Those are beautiful cards. What I learned when I submitted a bunch of these a few years ago is that a card like your Butler will almost always get a 7 as nice as it looks. When you can see any hint of white at multiple corners it equates to a 7.

I see, I appreciate you talking some sense to me. I’m gonna change some things around on my end. Should I grade all my 81/82 stars if I’m going to sell, to get the best price (bulk submission)?

Some 81 stars are worth the grading fee if you get a 9. I don’t think many 82s are worth it though. Just Ripken, Lee Smith off the top of my head.

Be careful on the 81s. The borders are really thin and it doesn’t take much to make them off center, especially top to bottom. They also have sneaky print defects too. I opened 8 Packs the other day and I went from 12 cards to 1 to sub after further inspection and measuring.

Rofles

@rcmb3220 said:

@Rofles said:

@PaulMaul said:
Those are beautiful cards. What I learned when I submitted a bunch of these a few years ago is that a card like your Butler will almost always get a 7 as nice as it looks. When you can see any hint of white at multiple corners it equates to a 7.

I see, I appreciate you talking some sense to me. I’m gonna change some things around on my end. Should I grade all my 81/82 stars if I’m going to sell, to get the best price (bulk submission)?

Some 81 stars are worth the grading fee if you get a 9. I don’t think many 82s are worth it though. Just Ripken, Lee Smith off the top of my head.

Be careful on the 81s. The borders are really thin and it doesn’t take much to make them off center, especially top to bottom. They also have sneaky print defects too. I opened 8 Packs the other day and I went from 12 cards to 1 to sub after further inspection and measuring.

Wouldn’t the Nolan/Rose/Bench Etc be worth grading? OrLow PoP/ no pop 10’s that may have a shot?

Kind of disheartened, but I still want to submit all my vintage for grading.

1951WheatiesPremium

@Rofles said:

@rcmb3220 said:

@Rofles said:

@PaulMaul said:
Those are beautiful cards. What I learned when I submitted a bunch of these a few years ago is that a card like your Butler will almost always get a 7 as nice as it looks. When you can see any hint of white at multiple corners it equates to a 7.

I see, I appreciate you talking some sense to me. I’m gonna change some things around on my end. Should I grade all my 81/82 stars if I’m going to sell, to get the best price (bulk submission)?

Some 81 stars are worth the grading fee if you get a 9. I don’t think many 82s are worth it though. Just Ripken, Lee Smith off the top of my head.

Be careful on the 81s. The borders are really thin and it doesn’t take much to make them off center, especially top to bottom. They also have sneaky print defects too. I opened 8 Packs the other day and I went from 12 cards to 1 to sub after further inspection and measuring.

Wouldn’t the Nolan/Rose/Bench Etc be worth grading? OrLow PoP/ no pop 10’s that may have a shot?

Kind of disheartened, but I still want to submit all my vintage for grading.

I think what people are suggesting is to be both realistic and selective on a first sub; if you send in 100 cards and get all 5s and 6s you’ll be devastated and out lots of dough. If you send in 10, you’ll be less and less.

Get a handle on a few first. Like testing your own ‘grading’ ability before you make a serious financial commitment. If the first 10 go as expected or better, then go for more.

Lastly? Seems you like 71 and 81-82? Go buy the cheapest common 8, 9 or 10 in a NEW FLIP and use it as your point of comparison and a visual example to compare your cards to...

Good luck.

DBesse27

@1951WheatiesPremium said:

@Rofles said:

@rcmb3220 said:

@Rofles said:

@PaulMaul said:
Those are beautiful cards. What I learned when I submitted a bunch of these a few years ago is that a card like your Butler will almost always get a 7 as nice as it looks. When you can see any hint of white at multiple corners it equates to a 7.

I see, I appreciate you talking some sense to me. I’m gonna change some things around on my end. Should I grade all my 81/82 stars if I’m going to sell, to get the best price (bulk submission)?

Some 81 stars are worth the grading fee if you get a 9. I don’t think many 82s are worth it though. Just Ripken, Lee Smith off the top of my head.

Be careful on the 81s. The borders are really thin and it doesn’t take much to make them off center, especially top to bottom. They also have sneaky print defects too. I opened 8 Packs the other day and I went from 12 cards to 1 to sub after further inspection and measuring.

Wouldn’t the Nolan/Rose/Bench Etc be worth grading? OrLow PoP/ no pop 10’s that may have a shot?

Kind of disheartened, but I still want to submit all my vintage for grading.

I think what people are suggesting is to be both realistic and selective on a first sub; if you send in 100 cards and get all 5s and 6s you’ll be devastated and out lots of dough. If you send in 10, you’ll be less and less.

Get a handle on a few first. Like testing your own ‘grading’ ability before you make a serious financial commitment. If the first 10 go as expected or better, then go for more.

Lastly? Seems you like 71 and 81-82? Go buy the cheapest common 8, 9 or 10 in a NEW FLIP and use it as your point of comparison and a visual example to compare your cards to...

Good luck.

Bingo!

dontippet

I agree. You will be very disappointed if you send all of your cards in. I think you'll even be surprised if you send in the best 10. Before I got into grading, I had this 1987 Donruss McGwire that I was sure would be a 10, and even contemplated getting into grading just to send in that one card. Years later, after I got into grading, I happened upon that card and couldn't believe that I used to think it was perfect. It would have probably graded an 8, maybe a 7.

Rofles

@1951WheatiesPremium said:

@Rofles said:

@rcmb3220 said:

@Rofles said:

@PaulMaul said:

Some 81 stars are worth the grading fee if you get a 9. I don’t think many 82s are worth it though. Just Ripken, Lee Smith off the top of my head.

Be careful on the 81s. The borders are really thin and it doesn’t take much to make them off center, especially top to bottom. They also have sneaky print defects too. I opened 8 Packs the other day and I went from 12 cards to 1 to sub after further inspection and measuring.

>
I think what people are suggesting is to be both realistic and selective on a first sub; if you send in 100 cards and get all 5s and 6s you’ll be devastated and out lots of dough. If you send in 10, you’ll be less and less.

Get a handle on a few first. Like testing your own ‘grading’ ability before you make a serious financial commitment. If the first 10 go as expected or better, then go for more.

Lastly? Seems you like 71 and 81-82? Go buy the cheapest common 8, 9 or 10 in a NEW FLIP and use it as your point of comparison and a visual example to compare your cards to...

Good luck.

Than you Sir!
I have 24 cards in right now I’m waiting on getting back (I check the site like 10 times a day out of excitement lol) that I’ll use as well:

Here’s the Koufax being graded:

I’m hoping for a 5.5- 6.5 on this one 😊

As far as the 81/82’s, all are rack pack and cello pack fresh from BBCE or certified by BBCE ripped by me:

I know not to expect 10’s by any means,m; the graders know what to look for that I will overlook. My goal is to build a set from the bottom up, I’m hoping I won’t have to buy too many, but we will see. 😊

I don’t know anything about what might be in demand though, as far as vintage collecting is concerned, outside of key players and hard-to-find High grade players, and the best way to maximize what I could get should I sell anything in the future. And thx for the heads up on grading! I’m learning a lot!

1951WheatiesPremium

@Rofles said:

@1951WheatiesPremium said:

@Rofles said:

@rcmb3220 said:

@Rofles said:

@PaulMaul said:

Some 81 stars are worth the grading fee if you get a 9. I don’t think many 82s are worth it though. Just Ripken, Lee Smith off the top of my head.

Be careful on the 81s. The borders are really thin and it doesn’t take much to make them off center, especially top to bottom. They also have sneaky print defects too. I opened 8 Packs the other day and I went from 12 cards to 1 to sub after further inspection and measuring.

>
I think what people are suggesting is to be both realistic and selective on a first sub; if you send in 100 cards and get all 5s and 6s you’ll be devastated and out lots of dough. If you send in 10, you’ll be less and less.

Get a handle on a few first. Like testing your own ‘grading’ ability before you make a serious financial commitment. If the first 10 go as expected or better, then go for more.

Lastly? Seems you like 71 and 81-82? Go buy the cheapest common 8, 9 or 10 in a NEW FLIP and use it as your point of comparison and a visual example to compare your cards to...

Good luck.

Than you Sir!
I have 24 cards in right now I’m waiting on getting back (I check the site like 10 times a day out of excitement lol) that I’ll use as well:

Here’s the Koufax being graded:

I’m hoping for a 5.5- 6.5 on this one 😊

As far as the 81/82’s, all are rack pack and cello pack fresh from BBCE or certified by BBCE ripped by me:

I know not to expect 10’s by any means,m; the graders know what to look for that I will overlook. My goal is to build a set from the bottom up, I’m hoping I won’t have to buy too many, but we will see. 😊

I don’t know anything about what might be in demand though, as far as vintage collecting is concerned, outside of key players and hard-to-find High grade players, and the best way to maximize what I could get should I sell anything in the future. And thx for the heads up on grading! I’m learning a lot!

If I may offer one more piece of advice?

If there’s any card that you really want in a certain grade, buy it already graded and in a new flip. This will save you time, money and heartache. For example, I know the ‘71 Aaron is both beautiful and popular and a key in the set. So if you want a 7, buy one. I wouldn’t make repeated attempts at subbing unless you have unlimited funds.

Rofles

@1951WheatiesPremium said:

If I may offer one more piece of advice?

If there’s any card that you really want in a certain grade, buy it already graded and in a new flip. This will save you time, money and heartache. For example, I know the ‘71 Aaron is both beautiful and popular and a key in the set. So if you want a 7, buy one. I wouldn’t make repeated attempts at subbing unless you have unlimited funds.

>

Great advice, thank you! I can be a bit stubborn-headed at times so it’s always a great refresher to read that, it helps me come back to reality LOL.
I definitely don’t have unlimited funds lol; funny you mentioned the Aaron! I saw a psa 7 asking $160 for it. I wanted to pull the trigger but I’ve overextended my budget A LOT. I just figure it’ll be there when the time comes! 😊

brad31

The Koufax looks nice. Think you will be pleased with the grade based on your expected grade.