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Is there a grade your experience has taught you to avoid??
keets
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For me it is MS62, what about you??
Al H.
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MS70
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Nope. It all depends on price.
The one designation I am always concerned about is "Red" as that tends to be an impermanent state.
You mean you wouldn't buy an MS62 Morgan for the same price as an MS61 Morgan?
Back when dinosaurs roamed the brouse the rule of thumb for early commems ever since TPG's started slabbing was to stay away from anything below MS65 as that was considered the beginning of investment grade.
As to MS62 I always thought of that grade as AU58+ at times way before plus grading.
No. I believe that there are perfectly acceptable, if not nice, (as well as unacceptable) coins at each grade level.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Lots of lower end AU grades looks washed out and/or cleaned to me. I don't necessarily avoid them specifically...I just haven't found many to my liking.
I avoid MS62-63 coins that have super clean looking surfaces because it will most likely be a dead coin. If I buy a 62-63 it better show some contact marks.
edit: talking about buying from pictures in person of course anything goes
I tend to avoid net graded coins and prefer straight graded coins !!!
Depends. I'd be totally happy with properly graded 18th century gold in AU53 or MS62 holders. I can't see much reason to collect Peace or Morgan dollars in those grades though.
There are stellar examples – and dogs – of every grade, but it's extremely rare that I ever see an MS60 that appeals to me.
MS is above my pay grade... but I tend to look very closely at anything in a 53 holder. Seems to be home of the AU dogs.
Dipped, slabbed AU58. (There are a lot of them out there.)
Anything silver in proof or MS 70, for spotting reasons.
+1
And 19th century gold.
No, because there can be wide variances in eye appeal for the same grade. I've seen $10 Gold Indians for example at MS64 that looked like junk/melt to me with awful distracting marks all over the surface, and AU58's that looked stunning.
But you're OK with "dipped, slabbed" AU55, AU53, MS61, etc. grades?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
No ... No ... No ...
I generally avoid anything below MS 63 but, for nice, original examples that also happen to be key dates; I will consider AU 58-MS 62.
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My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
50 can be tough but ....manageable with some care.
I have found some excellent MS62 coins, even a few 61s. I avoid MS65 and higher for older, classic coins. Too much money for subjective grading standards.
For Seated Half Dollars, you can buy a relatively scarce Unc. coin for a great price in the 62-63 range. Of course, eye appeal is the key, not the plastic grade.
Here are a couple of 62s. Maybe others don't love em, but I do.
Always look closely at any grade for any coin you are considering. But, for
AU 50/53's and MS 60/61/62 I scrutinize a lot closer. These are coins that are often XF's and AU's respectively in the type coin arena.
Obviously, in EVERY grade, you need to see the coin.
I'll go a different route.
I tend to very seldom be happy with a coin below about VG-8. At that point, you start losing too much design to be worth it, to me....no matter the rarity and value.
I also get a little freaked out by Bust coins without eyes. Call me crazy.
I generally avoid anything 64 and over. I typically just want a nice UNC example and there are some great 62/63 if you shop around. >63 and the price jumps are typically too extreme, and what somebody sees as 65, somebody else sees as 64, and that can be a big chunk of change.
XF48, MS60-61 as a dealer-buyer.
XF48 is a wonderful grade for a collector-buyer.
Significant variations based on which series and at what price points. Many, like cheap Morgans and early gold, have very different price structures
MS70 silver bullion.
Not worth the gamble that spots will develop after slabbing. And the grade is not guaranteed.
Successful BST transactions with forum members thebigeng, SPalladino, Zoidmeister, coin22lover, coinsarefun, jwitten, CommemKing.
Never owned anything ms60. Even a nice one might make a 61? Not for me.
I'm very cautious buying coins with the CAC sticker. Frequently they are average for the grade and nothing special coins yet the sellers wants a significant premium just because they have a little sticker on the slab.
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"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
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Anything a huge increment over the next lower grade. This could be even a difference between CAC bid say $750 and non CAC bid say $500. Now if CAC bid around 525 or 550 would prob bid on it.
I largely agree with one major exception: I don't ever recall seeing a nice 19th century proof coin not covered with distracting hairlines at lower grades.
The only grade I avoid is one that isn't recognized by the industry and TPG's. Won't mention the dealer's name, but I have no plans to purchase any of their coins graded F18.
Many years ago, I tended to avoid coins below MS63.... as I learned more, I stopped looking at grades and evaluated the coin.... and that is how I buy now.... If I find it attractive, relatively free of blemishes, and has the 'look' I like, it is a candidate for acquisition..... Cheers, RickO
60 and below 08. Just guidelines not rules, there are always exceptions. I also generally try to avoid low-ball and condition rarity stuff. No right or wrong, just collect what you like.
Those are really really nice 62's.
MS-60. Bottom of the barrel catch-all grade.
Sometimes such coins receive lower grades, due to somewhat subdued reflectivity of the Proof surfaces and they can still look quite nice. And even in the case of hairlined examples, sometimes the lines aren’t particularly conspicuous. Not surprisingly, such is far more likely to be the case for toned coins.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I think I've looked at enough coins to where I have seen amazing coins in just about every grade and I've also seen horribly ugly coins and just about every grade.
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
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It depends on the series for my there are a lot of attractive AU coins out there but say Morgan Siler MS60-63 are beat up but I like them well used in low grades and MS65 and above
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/publishedset/209923
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/album/209923
It's about quality for the grade not the grade itself
Experience the World through Numismatics...it's more than you can imagine.
It's about quality for the grade not the grade itself.
this is true and the reason I avoid the MS62 grade I started the thread with. my experience has taught me that at that grade level I am almost certain to find a reason why the coin may actually grade lower but almost never will it grade higher. I have seen so many coins graded MS62 that were rather unattractive that I tend not to consider them.....................at any price.
in a nutshell, I don't see much quality at MS62.
VF25. Had a dealer tell me since "bid" was for VF, his offer would be the same for VF20 and VF25
When I go to coins shows, I usually buy some material to flip (usually on eBay), if the price is right. Some I win on, some I lose on. I sort of know what will get attention/bids on eBay, vs basic widgets. I avoid MS60, and F12-15. Haven't have much luck moving the 60s. Fine also seems like a dead zone for me. I do much better selling original VF and XF classic material.
Dave
Do you also avoid VF30 for the same reason? And F15 (as opposed to F12) and XF45 (as opposed to XF40) and so on? If not, why not?
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Why are they a problem in your experience?
I have a 62+ coin....Wonder how that would fit into the "No 62's!" theory.
I Have found some decent coins in MS62.
While I agree about being cautious buying coins with a CAC sticker, I don't believe CAC coins should be put down because "Frequently they are average for the grade and nothing special...."
As an auction buyer, the CAC gives me some assurance that the coin is not over graded, especially when I don't have an opportunity to view the coin in person. Also, as an auction buyer, I have the option of not buying the coin if I feel the price is unreasonable.
I can grade 64-66 saints...That's it.
That leaves out 99.9 % of coins.
My Saint Set
It is more of the case of avoiding a mistake coin whatever the grade. I have coins from 6 to 66 and all grades in between. Here are a few no mistake coins, different grades.
Best, SH
I wish @BryceM felt the same way and would sell me this coin cheap: