A few questions if you're working on a Type Set.

keets

1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??

Thanks in advance, the answers should be interesting.

Al H.

TommyType

@keets said:
1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??

Thanks in advance, the answers should be interesting.

Al H.

1) My DESIRE is to do the entirety of US coin history. (The reality is that some of the early designs will never find their way into my collection).

2) I prefer all circulation strikes over proof, and will accept either MS or circulated, depending on the cost. (Can't afford MS for many...but no sense having a circulated Buffalo, or Merc, or other recent designs when MS is relatively cheap!) "Best I can justify paying for".

3) I generally go for the higher grade common rather than lower grade keys. I do have a strange affinity for "first year of issue" dates, however.

4) When I first laid out my "plan", I used a redbook to pick out all major variations of a design. So, yes, I see the 1943 steelie as essential. Type 1 and 2 SLQ....4 or 5 Seated to cover different changes. I've since been using the PCGS registries as a guide, which added some, (like a Type 2a SLQ, and a "shell case" cent), and maybe made some less required, (like a return to non-arrow late in the Seated series'). Unlike some....I like to have a lot of coins. I'm up for whatever "type" you want to sell me on.

5) I've done type sets twice, in different ways. I started raw, and used the 7070 as my guide. I still have some of that set remaining...

6) My main collection goal is now a certified type. At one point, I didn't care which service! I've since migrated to PCGS as my primary TPG, and have crossed some coins. In order to avoid that added expense....I try to buy PCGS only now, but am not above crossing a coin I really like.

nags

1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??

1 - I'm doing a standard 7070 book with the gold page.
2 - Mint State or Circulated. More concerned with look than the grade.
3 - I didn't have anything specific in mind, but most are semi-key dates.
4 - The steel cent is included.
5 - Raw in the Dansco. I have that album as a representation of US coinage all in one convenience location. I find that it's more interesting for non-coin folks to be shown that album then random coins which are be more rare or valuable. They all look the same to most folks.
6 - My specific type set is not slabbed. I have slabs from 3 TPGs. I've one crossed one coin in my life to get a GSA dollar in a NGC wrapper.

BillJones

@keets said:
1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??

Thanks in advance, the answers should be interesting.

Al H.

1. My set runs from 1792 until the current time because I have Proof sets to cover all of the late date quarter and dollar coins. I have certified coins which have kept me at 100% on the NGC registry. I don't what I might do if they add something else.
2. I have tried to get as many Proofs as possible, but I don't have all of the possible Proofs. One hole is the 1909-VDB cent because of the hoarder who controls the market. There are a few others like 1873-4 with Arrows coins, which I don't like all that much. They are expensive in Proof and Unc, and my Mint State quarter and half dollar are all I want. As for the early coins, I have tried to get AUs but some like the Chain Cent, 1796 Quarter and 1796-7 half dollar are just too expensive in that grade. The lowerst grade I have in the set is a Fine-15 for the 1796 half dollar.
3. No key dates, unless you have to buy a key date to fill the hole. Doing everything with "normal, common coins" is expensive enough. I am not drawn to the first of issue coins. If that happens to be one I get, that's okay, but I don't go out of my to do it.
4. I have almost all of the major types listed in Dave Bowers' "Red Book" on type coins except the Four Dollar Gold Piece. To me that is a pattern, not an official coin. I also have only one Gobrecht Dollar. I don't have the 1838 types.
5. Everything is certified except for the modern stuff that is in the Proof sets.
6. All of my coins are either PCGS or NGC. Of late I have to come prefer PCGS. I don't spend money on crossing coins. Some of my coins, like the 1796 No Stars Quarter Eagle, would cost a fortune to cross them. Maybe that could change if an auction house told me it was worth while when it's time to sell, but as of now I don't cross any coins.

coinhack

A 7070 set in the book. No proofs. Mostly uncirculated but some, such as the early copper is circulated. Those would be the highest grade I thought was reasonable, which are mostly XF-AU.

It obviously does not cover everything but the 7070 set is and interesting set and nice to be able to hold and view all of the coins at once.

I also have a type set of silver dollars that I put together. These are graded. 50/50 between the grading companies.

Baley

Goal is major and minor types issued for circulation 1793-2000, all metal, conditions ranging from AG to high MS and proof. Some better dates, no keys. Two kinds of uncertified: Raw, and Not-cracked-out-yet. Most of the collection is shown here:

https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/365714/completed-the-dansco-7070-us-type-set-album/p1

coinbuf

7070 album no proofs all unc or circ depending on type and cost, like many the early dates are too expensive in unc.

dan_marinelli

I have 5 Dansco 7070's with gold page that I'm trying to fill up. One is complete except for the seated dollars. I aim to get coins where I can see all or most of the detail. The later issues I get unc. No proofs. The 7070 doesn't have a separate slot for the no stars dimes/half dimes or for the big bust quarters. I am also putting together a 7070 type set with slabs. Same principle as with the albums, it all comes down to what I can find and afford. Haven't given any thought to slab type. Storing the slabs will become a pain, there'd be about 75 or 80 of them, though I don't really care about the 20th century coins with dead presidents, and Franklin, on them. I'm thinking about getting the slab albums that can store 9 per page and just getting the max pages in a book and deciding what I would consider a type set based on how many slabs I could fit in them. I would add the early silver into that type set, but won't be able to get coins with as much detail due to budget.

SimpleCollector

My collecting style

1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
Eventually want to have from 1794-present
2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
Both ms and circulated, i look for eye appeal at what I deem a fair price...I have from vg8 -ms65. I feel proof is a different category, so won’t add those (my view)
3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
I do not focus on particular dates. Eye appeal and fair price
4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
Not sure how to answer. I started hoping to get say one liberty seated half and one Liberty seated dime. As the type coins I still need are expensive to me(say a draped bust dollar) I am looking add some variety -say motto versus no motto, or stars/arrows
5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
Set is slabbed. I use lighthouse 9 slab trays and a case.
6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??
I will add any TPG if the coin is what I am looking for, and I believe is solid for the grade. I have ngc , pcgs, and anacs. I have bid on SEGS holdered coins, but the two I bid on I lost.

dan_marinelli

Baley your 7070 is incredible! Gives me something to shoot for!

BryceM

@keets said:
1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??

Federal issues, 1792 (yeah, right) to present.

2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??

No proofs. Mix of MS & circulated, depending on cost.

3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??

I’m including one coin from each mint (W Rosie, etc), and I like to keep it a bit interesting. That can mean color, an interesting date, a Pedigree or about anything else. The 3CS is a 51-O, the Seated half dome is no stars, and the 20c is a 75-CC for example. In general, I like to avoid the most common dates.

For 20th Century issues im trying to keep it high-grade. See my Sig Line.

4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??

I’m more-or-less following the PCGS Complete US Type Set, Circulation Strike (1792-1964) Registry Set, but including moderns too.

5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??

N/A, but I do have a 7070 I’m working on as a side project. It’s about 20% complete.

6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??

All PCGS slabbed.

Thanks in advance, the answers should be interesting.

Al H.

ChrisH821

I am currently doing a 7070 type set, mostly Unc, trying not to go below EF on the expensive stuff. Some are cracked from tpgs holders.

I do have an old Library of Coins two album type set, it sits atop my computer tower mocking me, knowing I will never be able to complete it.

BillJones

Duplicate post Ignore

Catbert

I like collecting for type, but refuse to collect coins as prescribed by an extensive album or registry format. Many types have uninteresting or ugly designs to my eye and with moderns, it would be galling to have to buy a coin just because someone thinks I should. Additionally, I feel no real urge to own a Morgan dollar or a Lincoln cent. I might someday, but these types are today's Toyotas - common, dull and uninspiring.

keets

it's interesting to note that many collectors who don't really like Modern coins are stubbornly collecting them for this kind of set --- and --- that even though almost everyone states their set goal is 1792-date probably none of them can realistically complete the set.

Baley

@keets said:
it's interesting to note that many collectors who don't really like Modern coins are stubbornly collecting them for this kind of set --- and --- that even though almost everyone states their set goal is 1792-date probably none of them can realistically complete the set.

Except for top pop gaga grades, the modern coins are very easy, so why not? The very early US coins are very difficult, even in humble grades, but one can be very proud of accomplishing, say, 92% and may save up to make it 94%... Our own BillJones was able to eventually finish his type set.

I'd be be happy to get close to that.

dadams

I love US coins, but I've pretty much given up on them since what I like I can't afford, especially when it is in plastic. Its amazing what 300 bucks can buy when not buying US. I had been buying TPG certified US Type and still have most of those coins, but the 7070 Dansco US Type Set is the only US set I am still working on.

1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
US Type 1800 to present as per the Dansco 7070, no Gold (currently)
2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
No Proofs, only Business Strikes in MS and Circ. Prefer MS, but exceptions have to be made so XF is a good compromise.
3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
Common dates, but prefer first or last year of issue.
4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
If I weren't doing a type set per the Dansco then yes, I would need/want each different type in the series. Once I finish the Dansco set then I will most likely pursue the other types in each series.
5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
Dansco, as mentioned. Without the Gold Page I count 76 holes to fill. I lack 20 which is mostly Seated coinage and to give an idea of cost to present state I have spent just over 2,100.
6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??
I gave up on the TPGs, but have a few entombed faves that are keepers.

If you're interested here is the Spreadsheet (.xls) I use to log my purchases - it shows each hole in the Dansco 7070 album

sparky64

I finished my 7070 a few months ago.
It was quite satisfying but it's about as non-remarkable as a 7070 can be.
No proofs.
I did try for first or last year of issue whenever I could.

TheRaven

A finished 7070 is a very nice accomplishment to me. Lots of effort to build that baby.

Rollerman

1) Whatever the 7070 Dansco calls for.
2) A combination of high grade circulated coins and a few uncirculated ones.
3) Just business strikes.
4) Again, whatever the 7070 calls for (I have two sets).
5) Just raw since they are in an album.
6) I have many slabbed coins (years sets and some keys), but the types set(s) are just that and in albums.

brianc1959

@keets said:
it's interesting to note that many collectors who don't really like Modern coins are stubbornly collecting them for this kind of set --- and --- that even though almost everyone states their set goal is 1792-date probably none of them can realistically complete the set.

I'm one of those "don't really like Modern coins" people, but I do like type sets so I get them anyway as needed. 1792-date is very tough, and sometimes I wish the registry sets didn't include the 1792 H10c, but it's something to aim high for I suppose. But at least the 1792 H10c is more or less available. Far worse is the inclusion of both $4 Stellas and the rolled-edge 1907 $10 in the big PCGS registry set. Pretty much makes that particular set unattainable.

Zoins

I don't typically do type sets but I have two minor ones I'm working on:

• Toned Circulation Dollar type set. I have Seated, Morgan, Ike, and Sac so far. I like PCGS for these and have TrueViews for all except for the Morgan, though I do have a QC Morgan TrueView.
• 1999 Broadstruck Error type set in small ANACS holders. There are a lot of errors from 1999 and it's been fun building up this set.

koynekwest

I've assembled a type set of doubled dies, cents thru dollars, like this one-

and a 20th century type set of attractively toned coins, also cents thru dollars, like this one-

GaCoinGuy

1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??

• I am doing a 7070, I try for first year of each type if I can. If first year is unfeasible then last year. I try to avoid keys for budgetary reasons. The wife and I are both teachers and we are helping her grandmother pay bills as well.

2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??

• I have a mix of all 3. MS or proofs for modern, depending on eye appeal or attractive toning. Earlier coins, I go for circs, again for budgetary reasons.

3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??

• First year or last year as much as possible, although I did break open a 69 (my birth year) proof set or 3 to get some toners in the book. Keys are out for the previously mentioned reasons.

4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??

• I am doing the 7070 without gold. I actually created a page for the updated Lincoln cents and the Jefferson nicks. Got the design done and now am researching the inner cardboard for something non-acidic or otherwise reactive.

5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??

• 7070 - easier to transport to show my students when we get to talking about coins. I am trying to start a numismatic club at my school and use the albums and raw coins to help build interest.

6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??

• No slabs for me, thanks. Too expensive for the most part.

WALLE

I'm doing a Dansco 7070 album.
The grades are from ( Good ) these were coins left to me by my father who pass 4 weeks before I was born, and why I started this collection, to proof
My set is raw nothing in slabs

Here a sheet I keep in the front of the my album.

coinkat

The age and maker of the album dictates what goes in. I like the early Whitman book shelf and Library of Coins and even the older Dansco albums work

LindeDad

Everyman set in sig line.

LoveTypeCoins

I’ve merged my type set quest with the often discussed box of 20 concept. It’s weird but unique (words that describe me pretty well)
1. 1793 through any type that ceased production before I was born (so no Lincoln, Jefferson, Roosevelt, Washington, Franklin, etc.). No gold. In addition I collect only one example of each design type irrespective of denomination. For example just one seated liberty (not one each of the half dime, dime, twenty cent, quarter, half and dollar). This lets me buy a better date and/or a better grade coin than I could otherwise afford.
2. MS and circ.
3. Prefer “story” coins. So Randall Hoard for large cent, civil war year for three cent silver, no cent 1883 liberty nickel, 1917 standing liberty quarter type1. By having a relatively small number of story coins, I write a narrative on each and hope that my grandkids will find it interesting and perhaps decide to hang on to the coins. If not, it should be a relatively easy sale.
4, 5, 6. All slabbed by our host.

LanLord

I have worked on and completed 3 different Dansco 7070s, the first was started when I was about 12 or so, it's fairly low/medium end coins. The second was a bit higher end coins and included some PROOFs (which I later regretted because PROOF coins didn't seem to age well in the Dansco pages). The third was high circulated and MS coins (age dependant).

Then, I got the wild idea to buy the Library of Coins type albums which includes a much wider range (and harder to obtain) coins. CRASH and BURN, it was looking nice until I realized that there were going to be some stoppers for me and the coin ports in the LOC albums allow the coins to spin too much and end up harming the coins.

Enter the wild idea to go for a certified (PCGS only) type set. It's probably my retirement project as I doubt I can ever finish, but it's getting there.

1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
Initially it was 19th and 20th century coins. Now expanded to include 18th and 21st centuries.

2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
In my certified set I am trying to include both PROOF and business strike coins in each example (when available).

3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
Tried that, too difficult to get really eye appealing coins that are key-date without killing my budget.

4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
I am collecting more than major types - for instance, Bust half dollars has many obvious changes (not die marriages, but significant styles) like the differences between a 1807 or 08 to the 1809. In Standing Lib Quarters, it's more than bare breast and chainmail, the differences that took place in 1925 to the date are enough to add a third style (for me).

5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
Answered above.

6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder??
PCGS only. Have crossed over some competitors slabs to add to my stash.

It's fun, but I presume this will end like my LOC experiment, except the coins will be much more protected.

MyWorldCoinTypeSet

You didn't limit your questions to collectors of US coins. I am working on a type set of world coins, see My Type Set. 2000 coins and counting.

>> 1). What date range are you trying to assemble, what are your starting and stopping dates??
Any date, though pre-1900 is preferred.

>> 2). Are your coins all Proofs, all Mint State, Circ's or a combination of the three??
Proofs and Mint State. I consider a Proof example and a Mint State example of the same coin design to be a different type. I stick to a minimum grade of 65 for coins from 1800, 64 for coins from 1700 to 1799, and 63 for coins up to 1699.

>> 3). Are you collecting anything special like key dates, errors/varieties or just common date??
Nothing special, just a high grade example of each type.

>> 4). Are you collecting just a Major Type/Design for each series or all the different Types in each series(eg., would you need a 1943 Steel Cent to be whole)??
All the different types in each series. I especially like it when I see a type (KM number) in Krause, and I find more than one coin of that type that is clearly different ... a different legend, a design element added or removed, etc.

>> 5). If your set is raw, are you using an album like the Dansco 7070, a Capital Plastic, "sheet" style holder or something else??
Not raw.

>> 6). If your set is slabbed, are you collecting all one TPG, any TPG and do you expect to cross all the coins to one TPG holder?
All PCGS. I do buy a few NGC and old ANACS that I find appealing, but because my collection is virtually unbounded, there's lot of selection in PCGS plastic. I normally gather up 10-15 other TPG slabs, and every few years I send a crossover submission to PCGS.