Behold the 1918 over 1917-S overdate Mercury dime!!!!
BUFFNIXX
Posts: 2,718 ✭✭✭✭✭
Looks like an eight over seven ......
Collector of Buffalo Nickels and other 20th century United States Coinage
a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
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No such animal.
Definitely a 1918 proof - look at that wide rim !
Well here is the reverse, Roger
Guess you would say the same about it too
So guess Roger grades it Pr02!
a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
And just by coincidence there is a 1918/7-s quarter
a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
Thanks for the reverse photo -- sure must be a proof, too. Where's Wally's letter of authentication ?
Here's a thread from 2002 asking about one.
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/129098/1918-7-s-mercury-dime
You guys can laugh all you wish. Back in the 70's, as a rookie authenticator, I found a sheet with every coin listed from 1800 to 1960. I have no idea where it is now, how I got it, or who printed it. Perhaps it was a way to inventory a collection.
The dates/mints were on the left and at the top of the row were the denominations. The second thing I thought to do (I don't remember the first - LOL) was to color the known overdate squares. Based on what I knew, I figured if the Mint overdated one denomination they may have done others that were still unknown.
Somewhere I have what I believe is VF 1918/7 dime too. It's probably in storage down in TN. If these truly exist, a high grade one will turn up eventually. Anyway, IMHO there are overdate coins out there still waiting to be discovered. possibly in 42, 43, 1887, 1877, etc.
What in the pan-seared deep dish bat-crazy is this tomfoolery?
Nope. I believe that one day a high grade genuine 1918/17 dime will be found. I've been looking for a second example. Mine has that tiny bit of metal at the right top of the "8."
The fairy you posted looks like a guy in depends.
PS I've discovered one previously unknown overdate that is in now FS so I know the Tooth Fairy is REAL!
Will someone PLEASE post a pretty fairy.
Never mind.
https://i.pinimg.com/originals/7e/d6/ab/7ed6ab99caee06133633da5137b684ef.jpg
Yikes!!! This thread has gone complexity off of the deep end.
a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
Put me in the camp of waiting for a higher grade.......
here is a current picture of the tooth fairy
born in 1917 or 1918, take yer pick.
a.k.a "The BUFFINATOR"
Put 'em together. See what ya get:
Far as I'm concerned, ANYTHING was possible in the 1917-18 period.
Pete
Buffalo has one why not a dime? Of course I would expect to have seen more of them like the buffs
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/publishedset/209923
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-major-sets/washington-quarters-date-set-circulation-strikes-1932-present/album/209923
If one of our newbie error searchers posted this, everyone would be screaming "PMD" or "send it in".
That is why the only evidence would "just" be at the top right of the "8." The loops would not be affected as on the 18/7 25c. Nevertheless, it is not looking good.
Sure looks like the front of the top of the 7 would stick out too.
This one was sold by heritage and appears to have a similar anomaly.
Remnants of a clash?
It is . And I'll thank you not to use that picture of me without my consent!
This is what mine looks like. Mine is probably in a little lower grade.
1917 was the first year George Morgan was Engraver. Unfortunately, he did not have an Assistant Engraver and had to rely on the die shop foreman and workers to inspect dies during and after manufacture. It is likely this situation led to the known 1918/17 dies and certainly opens the door to speculation that other hub overdates were made and possibly used. (Working dies for 1918 were made beginning in early October, 1917, and continued through most of 1918. It is more likely for hub overdating to occur during the overlap period from October to December when both current and next-year hubs were in use, )
Here's a rough overlay using images posted by BuffaloironTail.
Spacing of digits 1-9-1 in the two dates does not appear to be identical - likely because the wide 8 had to be accommodated.
Nice put together Roger. Looks like a no go.
Pete
Each numeral is stamped separately, is it not? So overlaying the entire date is not as instructive as overlaying just the 7 and the 8.
"Each numeral is stamped separately, is it not?"
No, that ended decades earlier. The design master die (aka 'matrix') had no date. An intermediate master die would have the first two or three digits in place, and the final ones were added to an annual master die. This last piece was used to make multiple annual master hubs. (There could also be other intermediate versions.)
1-9 or 1-9-1 should have come from a master die with the final digit added for the correct year. If you look at photos of 1942/1 P dimes this will be much clearer.
Part of the discrepancy for the posted photos is image scale and geometry. Good overlays require images at identical scale, geometry, lighting and high resolution.
AFAIK, by the time these were struck, only the last one or two numerals were applied. So by the time the working dies were being hubbed, the entire date should have been uniform.
Which means you can move the 8 around
This makes little sense with your earlier suggestion that the 191 spacing needed to accommodate the wide 8.
In fact, you should scale the image to make the 19 or 191 match and then move the 8 around
Seems like every other one on Heritage has "something" going on in that corner of the 8. I think it might just be a die chip. Edit - ha, as soon as I posted I realized my HA search pulled up all P mint. So maybe an anomaly on the 8 punch or the master die in Philly?
RE: "This makes little sense with your earlier suggestion that the 191 spacing needed to accommodate the wide 8."
Thank about it. The first 2 or 3 digits might remain in the same position per the master die, but the 4th digit could be manually entered into a master die with its position determined on digits so that a balanced appearance is maintained.
All dies were made at Philadelphia. All dies were made the same way. The next to last step was to punch a mintmark as needed. The final step for all was hardening, tempering and deburring.
Above should read: "...position determined on kerning (spacing) digits so that a balanced..."
oops
Wait, when did RogerB get banned? What did I miss?
Collector, occasional seller
It has been sanitized.
That's news to me too
Steve
About a month ago it was a timeout....... guess the timeout didn't work out.