One of the other critical photoshop jobs in this field is the arena of colorful toning. I think it would be neat to see what you could do to amplify subtle toning and make it a screamer.
This is another important aspect of digital manipulation. It's probably the mostly widely known among everyone here on the board. We all call it "juicing". There is a fine line between glamorizing and juicing. Ultimately in the end it comes down to ethics. My photographic ethics were developed when I was photographing landscapes. I wanted to present to the viewers of my work, images the represented as closely as possible to what I witnessed at the time I photographed the subject.
I work on a properly calibrated display so that I know what I am seeing on my screen is as accurate as possible. When I photograph a coin, especially a toned coin, I edit it so that it matches as closely as I can possibly get to the way it looks in my hand while sitting at my desk under my viewing lamp. It's very easy to push the saturation slider way too far and show an almost cartoonish representation, but it's not the truth.
When I get a moment, I will try to find an image that I can juice up and show a before and after image. I will also show an image of what my camera produces as a raw image and compare it to my final edited image. I will also note some of the tell tale signs of juicing and how slabbed coins can protect you against buying from juiced images.
I went back to the 1931 S cent that had an added S and 1 in the photo (link below) and ran that one through the website. Again it did not provide anything to say 'gotcha'. It did indicate that there were hidden pixels (7 X 3) but I could not figure anything out as to how to identify where.
I am thinking this FotoForensics (and the other noted in this thread) might not be so good for modified coin images. If you read this thread they do note one that it worked on, but....
FYI- for fun I tried editing the original posted unedited photo using the “magic eraser” that is in an app on my iPad called Pixelcut. This took about 3 minutes to do. It’s not as well done as the original poster did with photoshop, but I did it with my finger in less than 3 minutes just by touching the hits and scratches. This takes no talent, the app does it all for you.
Here’s another 3 minute “Magic Eraser” job done by touching my finger to the hits. This one was done with my own coin this time. I mainly just did the marks on Liberty’s cheek, but some in the field in front of Liberty and just a little bit elsewhere. You can sort of tell in the field, but cleaning just Liberty’s cheek like this could make the coin to appear to be a couple grades higher. This one’s an AU58 so probably wouldn’t make if MS, but would make it look more desirable
@Mr_Spud said:
FYI- for fun I tried editing the original posted unedited photo using the “magic eraser” that is in an app on my iPad called >Pixelcut. This took about 3 minutes to do. It’s not as well done as the original poster did with photoshop, but I did it with my >finger in less than 3 minutes just by touching the hits and scratches. This takes no talent, the app does it all for you.
.
Interesting, the tools might be getting better. I ran that one through the Foto thing and it did pick up some stuff. This Foto thing is not an on/off or good/bad as the notes read but an interpretation. I still have not re-read through it to see if there is more. Here is the result. Can see the horizontal and vertical lines that are not normally seen. Still not sure about it (Foto...).
Comments
Retouching is commonly done for illustration - but should never be presented as a specific, authentic item.
This is another important aspect of digital manipulation. It's probably the mostly widely known among everyone here on the board. We all call it "juicing". There is a fine line between glamorizing and juicing. Ultimately in the end it comes down to ethics. My photographic ethics were developed when I was photographing landscapes. I wanted to present to the viewers of my work, images the represented as closely as possible to what I witnessed at the time I photographed the subject.
I work on a properly calibrated display so that I know what I am seeing on my screen is as accurate as possible. When I photograph a coin, especially a toned coin, I edit it so that it matches as closely as I can possibly get to the way it looks in my hand while sitting at my desk under my viewing lamp. It's very easy to push the saturation slider way too far and show an almost cartoonish representation, but it's not the truth.
When I get a moment, I will try to find an image that I can juice up and show a before and after image. I will also show an image of what my camera produces as a raw image and compare it to my final edited image. I will also note some of the tell tale signs of juicing and how slabbed coins can protect you against buying from juiced images.
Bump for valuable information
http://www.pcgs.com/SetRegistry/publishedset.aspx?s=142753
https://www.autismforums.com/media/albums/acrylic-colors-by-rocco.291/
Even Artificial Toning
Charles III Album
Charles III Portrait Set
Charles IV Album
Charles IV Portrait Set
Spanish Colonial Pillar Set
*** OLD THREAD ***
Another example of modified coin photo from the past.
I ran this one (OP) through the website FotoForensics and the results were the same as above (comment link below) for the other similar website - and that is it did not pick up anything.
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/comment/12274861/#Comment_12274861
I went back to the 1931 S cent that had an added S and 1 in the photo (link below) and ran that one through the website. Again it did not provide anything to say 'gotcha'. It did indicate that there were hidden pixels (7 X 3) but I could not figure anything out as to how to identify where.
I am thinking this FotoForensics (and the other noted in this thread) might not be so good for modified coin images. If you read this thread they do note one that it worked on, but....
Link for thread on altered image of 1931 S cent (that I checked)
https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/comment/13524247#Comment_13524247
https://youtube.com/watch?v=_KWVk0XeB9o - Ruby Starr (from 'Go Jim Dandy') Piece Of My Heart
.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=D0FPxuQv2ns - Ruby Starr (from 'Go Jim Dandy') Maybe I'm Amazed
RLJ 1958 - 2023
FYI- for fun I tried editing the original posted unedited photo using the “magic eraser” that is in an app on my iPad called Pixelcut. This took about 3 minutes to do. It’s not as well done as the original poster did with photoshop, but I did it with my finger in less than 3 minutes just by touching the hits and scratches. This takes no talent, the app does it all for you.
Mr_Spud
Here’s another 3 minute “Magic Eraser” job done by touching my finger to the hits. This one was done with my own coin this time. I mainly just did the marks on Liberty’s cheek, but some in the field in front of Liberty and just a little bit elsewhere. You can sort of tell in the field, but cleaning just Liberty’s cheek like this could make the coin to appear to be a couple grades higher. This one’s an AU58 so probably wouldn’t make if MS, but would make it look more desirable
Mr_Spud
.
Interesting, the tools might be getting better. I ran that one through the Foto thing and it did pick up some stuff. This Foto thing is not an on/off or good/bad as the notes read but an interpretation. I still have not re-read through it to see if there is more. Here is the result. Can see the horizontal and vertical lines that are not normally seen. Still not sure about it (Foto...).
https://youtube.com/watch?v=_KWVk0XeB9o - Ruby Starr (from 'Go Jim Dandy') Piece Of My Heart
.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=D0FPxuQv2ns - Ruby Starr (from 'Go Jim Dandy') Maybe I'm Amazed
RLJ 1958 - 2023