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Rarity or condition? $5,000 coin.

topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

Pick your poison. You're going to spend $5,000 on a coin.
Which do you pick?
No specific series. Just in general.
:)

Rarity or condition? $5,000 coin.

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This is a private poll: no-one will see what you voted for.

Comments

  • WildIdeaWildIdea Posts: 1,877 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2019 2:38PM

    To me, rarity and condition go hand in hand. I will say that a good mix of the two is what I try to target. Not into unique pieces that look like parking lot scrubs or common coins with immaculate condition rarities. Sign me up for a 5k coin that is scarce and is one of the nicer surviving surfaces seen, not necessarily the best or top pop.

  • yspsalesyspsales Posts: 2,393 ✭✭✭✭✭

    In my limited experience, problem coins are always easier to buy and harder to sell.

    BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out

  • WalkerfanWalkerfan Posts: 9,354 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2019 2:40PM

    If it's choice, near gem or gem (MS 63-65), then I'm in.

    Anything higher or lower than that, then I'm probably not interested.

    Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍

    My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):

    https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/

  • CoinstartledCoinstartled Posts: 10,135 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Bid on one tonight. rarity.

  • jdimmickjdimmick Posts: 9,691 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I used t o always be a key date man, but over the past few years, not any longer, What I mean is, if I wanted a date say like a 73-cc seated dollar. I wont no longer buy an okay example, if I cant afford a superb one, I just wont get one. I like owing exceptional quality vintage coins regardless if key date, a nice tough type is just as good to me.

  • Aspie_RoccoAspie_Rocco Posts: 3,259 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2019 2:55PM

    I understand rarity as compared to few known examples, such as; pine tree shilling or 1964 sms set.

    Condition rarity like an ms68 1938 D Buffalo nickel, while awesome, it is still one of many surviving examples.

    I would take a true population rarity over a condition or high grade rarity most any day. A Doubled Die with 5 known examples is way cooler than a super high grade of a common coin.
    I use that approach in my registry set, adding rare variety coins before common high grades.

  • NysotoNysoto Posts: 3,818 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Always rarity. All of my coins at that price level are circulated, which I prefer over MS. Condition for the circulated grade is important.

    Robert Scot: Engraving Liberty - biography of US Mint's first chief engraver
  • CoinstartledCoinstartled Posts: 10,135 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jdimmick said:
    I used t o always be a key date man, but over the past few years, not any longer, What I mean is, if I wanted a date say like a 73-cc seated dollar. I wont no longer buy an okay example, if I cant afford a superb one, I just wont get one. I like owing exceptional quality vintage coins regardless if key date, a nice tough type is just as good to me.

    I love the beat up ones that circulated. The idea that a coin that may fetch $5,000 or more and was dropped on a bar for a beer a century or two ago is fascinating.

  • ZoinsZoins Posts: 34,300 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Generally at that level I want both absolute and condition rarities to be in top condition.

  • PhilLynottPhilLynott Posts: 890 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Depends but probably would lean more towards condition in general.

    Most coins people consider rare aren’t rare to me (see “key dates” with surviving pops in the thousands). Most coins that I consider actually rare and am interested in, early gold especially, wouldn’t be able to be had for $5k.

  • valente151valente151 Posts: 1,068 ✭✭✭

    A 1913 V nickel looks the same as a 1912 nickel, might as well pay up for the coin that will give you more WOW factor looking at.

  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Zoins said:
    You need a choice for both :)

    No. No I don't. I....almost... posted that whoever said I needed both would get ...fined... $5000. :D

  • Jinx86Jinx86 Posts: 3,710 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Im working on Barber Dimes. For 5K you get both.

  • ColonialcoinColonialcoin Posts: 661 ✭✭✭✭

    @Aspie_Rocco said:
    I understand rarity as compared to few known examples, such as; pine tree shilling or 1964 sms set.

    Be careful of calling Pine Tree shillings rare. They are much more common than you realize. That said, a decent looking one is certainly worth acquiring.

  • SmudgeSmudge Posts: 9,538 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @PhilLynott said:
    Depends but probably would lean more towards condition in general.

    Most coins people consider rare aren’t rare to me (see “key dates” with surviving pops in the thousands). Most coins that I consider actually rare and am interested in, early gold especially, wouldn’t be able to be had for $5k.

    May be. 1846 half eagle small date. 50 survivors in all grades. Look it up in price guide. Less expensive than you may think for an 8.5 rarity in all grades. Lots of early quarter and half eagles like that. Finding nice ones for sale is tough.

  • ZoinsZoins Posts: 34,300 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited March 17, 2019 7:45PM

    @valente151 said:
    A 1913 V nickel looks the same as a 1912 nickel, might as well pay up for the coin that will give you more WOW factor looking at.

    Yes, here, the date is the WOW factor!

  • crazyhounddogcrazyhounddog Posts: 13,977 ✭✭✭✭✭

    How bout condition rarity?

    The bitterness of "Poor Quality" is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.
  • rickoricko Posts: 98,724 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Condition is primary for me.... Now, that does not necessarily mean '70' condition....it means general appearance, free from major issues or an agglomeration of minor issues. I am a collector, so I acquire what attracts me. Cheers, RickO

  • skier07skier07 Posts: 3,991 ✭✭✭✭✭

    What’s wrong with a combination of rarity and condition?

  • ctf_error_coinsctf_error_coins Posts: 15,433 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I voted wrong. I voted for rarity.

    After some thought, I would not buy a rare coin in bad condition. I would buy a less rare coin in great condition.

    Condition matters.

  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @ErrorsOnCoins said:
    I voted wrong. I voted for rarity.

    After some thought, I would not buy a rare coin in bad condition. I would buy a less rare coin in great condition.

    Condition matters.

    That's alright. I made the poll way too difficult anyway. :s

  • jtlee321jtlee321 Posts: 2,364 ✭✭✭✭✭

    To me, it's all about looks. It has to be something I would enjoy getting out and looking at. A lower graded/problem rarity would not be as much fun to look at as say an MS-68 Common Date Morgan with outstanding eye appeal or an MS-64/65 1828 CBHD, or MS-66/66+ Barber Half. The list could go on and on...

  • OKbustchaserOKbustchaser Posts: 5,489 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @jtlee321 said:
    To me, it's all about looks. It has to be something I would enjoy getting out and looking at. A lower graded/problem rarity would not be as much fun to look at as say an MS-68 Common Date Morgan with outstanding eye appeal or an MS-64/65 1828 CBHD, or MS-66/66+ Barber Half. The list could go on and on...

    And I am just the opposite. I would MUCH rather look at an XF 1815 half or even a VG 1797 half than any common date Morgan regardless of grade. As for Barber halves I would rather (and do) have a XF 1914 than a 63 1914 S for about the same price.

    Just because I'm old doesn't mean I don't love to look at a pretty bust.
  • PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 46,231 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I think this is what topstuf is meaning. Let's say you have $5000 to buy a single Morgan dollar for a type set. Do you buy a better date like an 1893-S or 1889-CC in a circulated grade for $5000 or would you rather buy a common date in a top-pop MS grade for $5000?

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

  • ParadisefoundParadisefound Posts: 8,588 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Can I pick all of the above? :)
    I would spend it on rarity first but not on sub par condition so ideally for me is somewhat rare with best quality.

  • johnny9434johnny9434 Posts: 28,415 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I'm in the rarity camp. if I like the condition and the price then yes ill go for that { for now )

  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Please let me clarify. I only want to please. <3

    The "rarity" I had in mind was not a holed, plugged, bent or mutilated rarity. :D

  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @PerryHall said:
    I think this is what topstuf is meaning. Let's say you have $5000 to buy a single Morgan dollar for a type set. Do you buy a better date like an 1893-S or 1889-CC in a circulated grade for $5000 or would you rather buy a common date in a top-pop MS grade for $5000?

    Be careful. People might think the choice is only Morgans. :D

  • 1630Boston1630Boston Posts: 13,786 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Would $10,000 buy both ? :smile:

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  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @FSF said:

    @topstuf said:
    Please let me clarify. I only want to please. <3

    The "rarity" I had in mind was not a holed, plugged, bent or mutilated rarity. :D

    For myself, I assumed that to be the case. Problem coins as you mentioned wouldn't even be under consideration for me. However, if we are talking about a very attractive circulated example, of which I generally think is well less than 1 in a 100 examples, then I wouldn't mind at all a nice original circulated copy and might even prefer it.

    Oh darn. I forgot to include copies. >:)

  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @1630Boston said:
    Would $10,000 buy both ? :smile:

    Coin collectors don't have that kind of money. :o

  • renman95renman95 Posts: 7,037 ✭✭✭✭✭
    1. holder, preferably with stickers
  • FlatwoodsFlatwoods Posts: 4,137 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @topstuf said:

    @Zoins said:
    You need a choice for both :)

    No. No I don't. I....almost... posted that whoever said I needed both would get ...fined... $5000. :D

    How about neither? I just buy what I like without much thought to either.

  • FlatwoodsFlatwoods Posts: 4,137 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Send me a bill. :p

  • SurfinxHISurfinxHI Posts: 2,464 ✭✭✭✭✭

    What about, price justified by what I can get for it at the pawn shop later?

    Dead people tell interesting tales.
  • SoldiSoldi Posts: 2,177 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I find the question to be too limited in scope. :)

  • topstuftopstuf Posts: 14,803 ✭✭✭✭✭

    :'(

  • BaleyBaley Posts: 22,661 ✭✭✭✭✭

    I've only spent near $5k on a coin three times: 1795 dollar, 1805 half eagle, 1812 half eagle.

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

  • stevebensteveben Posts: 4,616 ✭✭✭✭✭

    i normally consider the look of the coin first...but if i can't see it...they it's going to be on condition because i don't want some lousy looking coin that i don't enjoy looking at and convincing myself it's rare.

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