@philographer said:
In a Saint, I just can NOT buy when the bridge of Liberty’s nose is bashed and flattened. Or if she has a bruised forehead, >or an eye is askew from a bag mark, or the lips are mussed into a jack-o-lantern smile. Just can’t get over the damage to >that very small portion of the coin, regardless of grade (see it in 64 often enough).
I feel the same way
Here is a rare one in a hard to find 64+ but there is no way I could do it.
The face must be very nice before I'll buy it.
All of the above with exceptions: various fairly minor post-mint or more serious as made problems on early pieces, preferably graded. Much depends on the scarcity of course. One has to make some allowances for 200+ year-old coins or medals IMO. Problems that would make later pieces unacceptable often add to the charm.
@fiftysevener said:
Proof coppers designated Red in old holders. Chances of reholder is very low.
If these proof coppers in 'old' holders are indeed red, and indeed are still red in said holders, along with being properly graded in the first place, chances are I will pay a lot more for these if the coin is one I have been seeking.
Dont like dark toning or dark spots. Buyers prefer coins wellstruck with nice luster as close to pristine as day they left the mint. Toning (tarnish) is a preference for some but these are a minority who can be very picky. Other than that horrible marks / striking features as discussed above. Saints w copper spots will not buy.
@blitzdude said:
Any piece of silver with toning on it. Makes me want to puke. God bless the Weimans.
Hopefully you can get clear of all of your untoned coins first. Stomach acid isn’t likely to produce a chemical reaction on silver that any collector would appreciate.
Excessive hits or hits to the face or breast of Liberty on LSH's are a turnoff. All ugly, dipped or harshly cleaned circulated coins are quickly dismissed (>95% of SLH on EBay). As much as I hate rim dings, I still make occasional exceptions for slight dings on otherwise excellent, original coins.
Here is another...This time a 66+ with a smaller imperfection.
Still no way I could do it...Even if it was cheap.
The face of liberty on a saint is about 1/8" in diameter but any damage there is a deal breaker.
Personally, in a Franklin collection, "Die Clash" (FS-401, 402, etc) are mechanical issues and not varieties.
They are equal to mechanical doubling which is not considered a variety.
They are "interesting" but are a result of a mechanical failure. If the specimen has other desired qualities, then it is a "yes". Otherwise, it is a pass.
There are many reasons to pass on a coin. What is recent practice for me is to avoid coins that don't match the look or grade of my current sets (Barber Halves and Commems). I value originality and expect some eye appeal, which includes some light attractive rim toning or original skin. Everything else I avoid, and in the end, I know I will build much more attractive sets in the process.
@fiftysevener said:
Proof coppers designated Red in old holders. Chances of reholder is very low.
If these proof coppers in 'old' holders are indeed red, and indeed are still red in said holders, along with being properly graded in the first place, chances are I will pay a lot more for these if the coin is one I have been seeking.
You have proof copper in older scratched up holder. You want NGC to reholder this proof copper. They are very hesitant to reholder because they guarantee color for 10 years. So if it's in a old scratched holder which makes the coin show poorly it's one I will avoid. Oh yes I've been stung a couple times.
There are so many reasons I would pass on a coin. Understand I'm a type collector. For me to consider a purchase, it would first have to have eye appeal and an interesting story. Then it would get written off if it has any rim dings, fingerprints, conspicuous spots, scratches across Liberty, excessive bagmarks, if it didn't look original, weak strike etc. etc.
And this will cause some controversy but I will think twice if it isn't stickered. Not that I won't buy it but it makes me look at it with a more critical eye and try to find the reasons why it didn't sticker or inquire if the seller knows if it was sent or not.
Buy only the coins you really like. Don't settle! If I settle on a coin then I'll never be happy with it.
Another type set collector on a budget, trying to find a coin for each space that makes sense, and still afford to buy an example.
My common coins tend to be very nice but not ga ga grades. Any "problem" at all would be disqualifying as the representative of an easy type, a nice 64-66 usually works, often with subtle, attractive and relatively symmetrical toning.
For scarce coins, which would cost over about 500 or 1000 in Uncirculated (depending on size, metal, andhow much I like the design), I'll go for a VF-AU, here I want an honest circulated coin that looks like it was just pulled from circulation. No warshing off, no notable marks or other damage or "intent" done to it.
For Rare coins, here I'm talking flowing hair and draped bust era coins, and other types that are over 1k in Fine or better, I've opted to accept a range of different problems, rather than go without a coin, and to to get some more details for the same price of a "problem-free" Fair or AG.
So my Classic head cent has EF detail, but light corrosion, net fine, and my AU Draped bust cent has a small an edge bump, net vf. My VF detail, original surface 1797 half dime has a hole in it, net AG, and the Unc details 1805 half eagle is lightly polished, net Fine. My 1795 dollar has a small test mark in the field, and my 1796 dime is lightly tooled. There are a few others, I've tried to have a type set of illustrative issues, that represent not just the history of the coins, also of their uses and abuses, again, rather than Go Without because of the clash of high standards and low bank balance.
Hope to have imperfect (rather than none) 1795 gold and 1793 copper coins. Someday, the right coin will show up at a time when the funds are available.
@philographer said:
In a Saint, I just can NOT buy when the bridge of Liberty’s nose is bashed and flattened. Or if she has a bruised forehead, >or an eye is askew from a bag mark, or the lips are mussed into a jack-o-lantern smile. Just can’t get over the damage to >that very small portion of the coin, regardless of grade (see it in 64 often enough).
I feel the same way
Here is a rare one in a hard to find 64+ but there is no way I could do it.
The face must be very nice before I'll buy it.
Comments
My stamp of approval.
I feel the same way
Here is a rare one in a hard to find 64+ but there is no way I could do it.
The face must be very nice before I'll buy it.
My Saint Set
Fingerprints, spots, corrosion.
All of the above with exceptions: various fairly minor post-mint or more serious as made problems on early pieces, preferably graded. Much depends on the scarcity of course. One has to make some allowances for 200+ year-old coins or medals IMO. Problems that would make later pieces unacceptable often add to the charm.
Proof coppers designated Red in old holders. Chances of reholder is very low.
If these proof coppers in 'old' holders are indeed red, and indeed are still red in said holders, along with being properly graded in the first place, chances are I will pay a lot more for these if the coin is one I have been seeking.
Wow, that’s a mess!
He who knows he has enough is rich.
Dont like dark toning or dark spots. Buyers prefer coins wellstruck with nice luster as close to pristine as day they left the mint. Toning (tarnish) is a preference for some but these are a minority who can be very picky. Other than that horrible marks / striking features as discussed above. Saints w copper spots will not buy.
Hopefully you can get clear of all of your untoned coins first. Stomach acid isn’t likely to produce a chemical reaction on silver that any collector would appreciate.
Excessive hits or hits to the face or breast of Liberty on LSH's are a turnoff. All ugly, dipped or harshly cleaned circulated coins are quickly dismissed (>95% of SLH on EBay). As much as I hate rim dings, I still make occasional exceptions for slight dings on otherwise excellent, original coins.
Here is another...This time a 66+ with a smaller imperfection.
Still no way I could do it...Even if it was cheap.
The face of liberty on a saint is about 1/8" in diameter but any damage there is a deal breaker.
My Saint Set
Personally, in a Franklin collection, "Die Clash" (FS-401, 402, etc) are mechanical issues and not varieties.
They are equal to mechanical doubling which is not considered a variety.
They are "interesting" but are a result of a mechanical failure. If the specimen has other desired qualities, then it is a "yes". Otherwise, it is a pass.
Just a personal "No" in the series.
There are many reasons to pass on a coin. What is recent practice for me is to avoid coins that don't match the look or grade of my current sets (Barber Halves and Commems). I value originality and expect some eye appeal, which includes some light attractive rim toning or original skin. Everything else I avoid, and in the end, I know I will build much more attractive sets in the process.
Walkers: rim dings/dents/bruises, or hairlines in obverse fields; cleaned VFs pushed to AU
Lincolns: rim dings/dents; conspicuous spotting and/or corrosion
Jefferson Nickels: flat dull "1958" luster; hits on dome.
What does "1958" luster look like? Do you have any pictorial examples? I have never heard this term.
There are so many reasons I would pass on a coin. Understand I'm a type collector. For me to consider a purchase, it would first have to have eye appeal and an interesting story. Then it would get written off if it has any rim dings, fingerprints, conspicuous spots, scratches across Liberty, excessive bagmarks, if it didn't look original, weak strike etc. etc.
And this will cause some controversy but I will think twice if it isn't stickered. Not that I won't buy it but it makes me look at it with a more critical eye and try to find the reasons why it didn't sticker or inquire if the seller knows if it was sent or not.
Buy only the coins you really like. Don't settle! If I settle on a coin then I'll never be happy with it.
Another type set collector on a budget, trying to find a coin for each space that makes sense, and still afford to buy an example.
My common coins tend to be very nice but not ga ga grades. Any "problem" at all would be disqualifying as the representative of an easy type, a nice 64-66 usually works, often with subtle, attractive and relatively symmetrical toning.
For scarce coins, which would cost over about 500 or 1000 in Uncirculated (depending on size, metal, andhow much I like the design), I'll go for a VF-AU, here I want an honest circulated coin that looks like it was just pulled from circulation. No warshing off, no notable marks or other damage or "intent" done to it.
For Rare coins, here I'm talking flowing hair and draped bust era coins, and other types that are over 1k in Fine or better, I've opted to accept a range of different problems, rather than go without a coin, and to to get some more details for the same price of a "problem-free" Fair or AG.
So my Classic head cent has EF detail, but light corrosion, net fine, and my AU Draped bust cent has a small an edge bump, net vf. My VF detail, original surface 1797 half dime has a hole in it, net AG, and the Unc details 1805 half eagle is lightly polished, net Fine. My 1795 dollar has a small test mark in the field, and my 1796 dime is lightly tooled. There are a few others, I've tried to have a type set of illustrative issues, that represent not just the history of the coins, also of their uses and abuses, again, rather than Go Without because of the clash of high standards and low bank balance.
Hope to have imperfect (rather than none) 1795 gold and 1793 copper coins. Someday, the right coin will show up at a time when the funds are available.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
And that is a CAC coin
My Saint Set
Liberty looks like a Klingon!
Spots and fingerprints.
Great transactions with oih82w8, JasonGaming, Moose1913.
You haven't heard if it because it is my term and I made it up to describe dull washed out Jeffersons.
Most 1958 Philly coins are dull and lifeless.
Okay, when I posted this 2 weeks ago I was also thinking environmental damage. Now I have one!
So in one type I have: top pop 1/0, under top pop (first one), cleaned (great pedigree) and environmental damage (error).
I guess I have no real red lines!
I don't care much about other's finger prints as DNA on any coin