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Questions about grading process and declaring values

Hello, so I’ve ripped a lot of ‘81 and ‘82 Topps Baseball lately, and I’m putting together some ‘82’s that I feel have a shot at a 9 or a 10. My question is, how would I go about determining declared value if the card has a low pop 10 or no pop 10?
Say I have a card that’s a pop 0 in 10, and I do a declared value of say, $750 or $1000, and it comes back an 8, do I get charged the the $499 or less range? Or still pay for the 1k value price?
Could someone give me some pointers perhaps?
I checked 4sc to see what they have for comparison, which was interesting.
What else should I keep in mind for submitting?
Cards are arranged in numerical order and all face the same direction. Cards are in penny sleeves in a card saver case.
I clipped the corners off most of the penny sleeves to slide the cards in easier, Will this have any sort of impact for the graders when they get the cards?

TIA!!

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    PROMETHIUS88PROMETHIUS88 Posts: 2,820 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Insure them for whatever you want. Unless it is a rare, vintage common in unusually high grade, insure for $5 or $10 each. Odds are it's probably going to even out. Even if a 1982 common card comes back a 10, they are NOT going to charge you a higher price.

    Promethius881969@yahoo.com
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    RoflesRofles Posts: 752 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @PROMETHIUS88 said:
    Insure them for whatever you want. Unless it is a rare, vintage common in unusually high grade, insure for $5 or $10 each. Odds are it's probably going to even out. Even if a 1982 common card comes back a 10, they are NOT going to charge you a higher price.

    What do you mean by insuring them? Like through the mail?

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    PROMETHIUS88PROMETHIUS88 Posts: 2,820 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @Rofles said:

    @PROMETHIUS88 said:
    Insure them for whatever you want. Unless it is a rare, vintage common in unusually high grade, insure for $5 or $10 each. Odds are it's probably going to even out. Even if a 1982 common card comes back a 10, they are NOT going to charge you a higher price.

    What do you mean by insuring them? Like through the mail?

    Sorry, meant declared value. The declared value is basically used for PSA service level pricing and the amount they insure your cards back to you. They will tell you to typically declare the value of the card at SMR PSA 8 value. 1982 commons are cards that I would send in a bulk submission at the $8/card service level. If you get a card in a 10 that has a zero pop currently, it's impossible to tell what that card is actually worth. If you declare the value of a bunch of cards at $750 or $1000, first off you are going to be paying a ton in grading fees....I believe $50 a card?? If they come back an 8 and are worth $5 you are NOT going to get money back because you have already chosen your service level.

    Promethius881969@yahoo.com
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    daltexdaltex Posts: 3,486 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Express grading is now $75 per card.

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    RoflesRofles Posts: 752 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @PROMETHIUS88 said:

    @Rofles said:

    @PROMETHIUS88 said:
    Insure them for whatever you want. Unless it is a rare, vintage common in unusually high grade, insure for $5 or $10 each. Odds are it's probably going to even out. Even if a 1982 common card comes back a 10, they are NOT going to charge you a higher price.

    What do you mean by insuring them? Like through the mail?

    Sorry, meant declared value. The declared value is basically used for PSA service level pricing and the amount they insure your cards back to you. They will tell you to typically declare the value of the card at SMR PSA 8 value. 1982 commons are cards that I would send in a bulk submission at the $8/card service level. If you get a card in a 10 that has a zero pop currently, it's impossible to tell what that card is actually worth. If you declare the value of a bunch of cards at $750 or $1000, first off you are going to be paying a ton in grading fees....I believe $50 a card?? If they come back an 8 and are worth $5 you are NOT going to get money back because you have already chosen your service level.

    Ah, that’s what I was curious about. Thank you!!

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    1951WheatiesPremium1951WheatiesPremium Posts: 6,243 ✭✭✭✭✭

    If it helps, I think using SMR value is a good way to handle value. Since you (read: I) can’t really tell 9 from 10, I’d submit at the ‘Mint’ valuation for anything close.

    Anything over the top rare and valuable (PSA 10 Valenzuela Rookie), they’ll call. Probably get a call from Dmitri Young, too.

    PS - IF you pop a 82T Chili Davis RC in PSA 10, I’m interested...

    :smiley:

    Curious about the rare, mysterious and beautiful 1951 Wheaties Premium Photos?

    https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/987963/1951-wheaties-premium-photos-set-registry#latest

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    swish54swish54 Posts: 687 ✭✭✭✭

    I would declare on the cheaper side. It's for deciding what level of insurance on the way back to you. Never had this happen to me, but I've heard that if the grade they give vaults said card well into another level then they will get ahold of you and let you know that the return shipping will be more due to the grade the card got.

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    RoflesRofles Posts: 752 ✭✭✭✭✭

    @1951WheatiesPremium said:
    If it helps, I think using SMR value is a good way to handle value. Since you (read: I) can’t really tell 9 from 10, I’d submit at the ‘Mint’ valuation for anything close.

    Anything over the top rare and valuable (PSA 10 Valenzuela Rookie), they’ll call. Probably get a call from Dmitri Young, too.

    PS - IF you pop a 82T Chili Davis RC in PSA 10, I’m interested...

    :smiley:

    Ok good to know! I was planning to do the basic submission anyways, I just wasn’t sure if I needed to go up or not depending on the nature of the card. I’ll keep you in mind on that chili Davis RC too! 😄

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    grote15grote15 Posts: 29,522 ✭✭✭✭✭

    $10 a card for 82s is probably aboiut right. Depending on how many cards you submit, you will also pay more if total declared value exceeds 1K on the submission.



    Collecting 1970s Topps baseball wax, rack and cello packs, as well as PCGS graded Half Cents, Large Cents, Two Cent pieces and Three Cent Silver pieces.
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