Looking for some insight/opinions of when and when not to allow a qualifier

lightningboy

I don't have any sets on the registry although from my understanding, a card with a qualifier is "worth" 2 grades lower. Correct me if i am wrong.

I mentioned that as a reference only. When it comes to grading cards that are most likely going to be flipped, do you have a numerical grade reduction that you use in deciding whether or not to let PSA put the qualifier on? For example, you have a card that is a PSA 9 all day (i.e 4 razor corners, flawless surface etc), but the centering is worse than 75/25. Theoretically, this should be a 5 at best. Are you asking for a qualifier on this one because you do not want to risk dropping 4 grades? Whereas, the same card with slightly worse than 65/35, should be an easy 7 with a good chance at an 8.

Does that "2 grades lower" value of the registry play a part in your decision?

Its not easy to view completed sales to get an accurate comparison as not all PSA 9 o/c are similar (some would be straight 8's while others would be straight 5's)

Sorry for all the rambling, I'm just curious if you have a steadfast rule or do you take it card by card as there are some accepted qualifiers, in the market, for particular cards.

thanks for any and all input, Tom

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Dpeck100

I always ask for no qualfiers. I am personally not a fan of them. It is like a chick that is a buttaface. Just place the grade that it really is on it is how I feel.

In terms of dropping four points for 75/25 centering I have never heard of that happening on an otherwise mint card. If it has dagger sharp corners you are getting a PSA 7 in almost all cases.

1951WheatiesPremium

I think among collectors you’ll find qualifiers are fairly unpopular for the most part. Though it can depend greatly on the card.
Because grading is a blend of subjective and objective standards, I do think it’s possible to land in the sweet middle ground.

In your specific example, if you believe that it’s a likely 9 o/c but is very sharp (which most collectors will price as a 7) you should consider that there is the possibility that the appeal of the card earns it a ‘non qualified’ grade of 7+ or even 8. Either sells for more than a 9 o/c in most cases.

And in your ‘worst case’ scenario where it comes back ‘5’ and you are crushed, you can then resubmit the card for a qualifier and see if it does better.

But I think you should try for the more desirable outcome first, you know?

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dictoresno1

I would prefer a straight grade every time over a qualifier. when selecting cards for my T206 Highlanders team set, I specifically choose non qualifier cards, even if it costs me more or even a lower grade.

Stone193

Not a fan of qualifiers tho I have many.

I did take an NQ to take an 8OC to a 7.

One thing tho - an 8OC potentially tells the viewer what they're looking at less the centering. If one saw [an NQ] a PSA 3 - one has to take way more time getting an impression of the card.

Now, if one is totally turned off by bad centering? The corners would probably be irrelevant?

JoeBanzai

If you are going to be selling always ask for no qualifiers. You will always lose some potential buyers if there is a qualifier.

lightningboy

Thanks for the input. However, I don't understand why several members say that an otherwise gorgeous PSA 9 o/c will most likely be a straight 7 even with centering in the PSA 5 grade parameter. Sorry, Maybe I used the wrong centering in my original post. Assume the centering is 85/15 or worse. Are you still getting a 7 with that?

Dpeck100

No.

PSA 5 to PSA 6 is probably where you land with 85/15.

That is really severe OC.

In my experience I would get a PSA 8 OC and if no qualifiers a PSA 6.

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JoeBanzai

For me it kind of depends on the card, some vertical cards do not look too bad if they are 50-50 side to side and OC towards the top,