Extending the Type Set

TommyType

I do love Type collecting. One of every design and type is a lofty goal, for sure.

But, if I had unlimited funds, (and time), I’d probably be one of those crazy guys who attempts to build a full US coin set. Every type, date, and mintmark! Phooey on your “Box of 20” ideas!!

Of course, even beyond time and money, there’s the issue that some coins simply aren’t attainable...and the unique coins certainly not for more than one person at a time. Even beyond the unique pieces, an average guy hits roadblocks with the key dates in many, if not most, series.

So, I’ve been thinking lately on how to EXTEND the accepted Type Set for the common man. Something more than JUST one per type, but something less than going “Full Eliasberg”.

Proposals:

A: The Decades Type Set
Basic Rules:

• Own one coin of each design for each decade that they were made.
• So, for instance, you would require one Buffalo Nickel from 1913 (Type1), one from 1913-1919 (Type 2), one form 1920-1929, and one from 1930-1938.
• You would have one lettered edge Capped Bust Half from 1807-1809, one from 1810-1819, one from 1820-1829, and one from 1830-1836.
• Lather, rinse, repeat, for every coin denomination and type.

The Allure:

• You can SKIP the key dates. No 1815 Capped Bust Half, or 1913S Buffalo. And no unique coins required.
• You get to collect more coins, with more variety, and more expansive coverage of US coins.

Disadvantage:

• If it took-off as a collecting style, it would immediately create some new single year varieties, much like the 1853 w/arrow and rays coins. The 1959 Lincoln is the only Memorial cent in the 50’s. The 1809 Classic Head Cent is the only date in the 00’s.
• Series like the Lincoln Cent, and Seated anything are long. And if you don’t LIKE those designs, the fun suddenly wanes.

B: The Every Year Type Set
Basic Rules:

• The current Type Set rules apply. You seek one coin of every type.
• BUT...You extend that by attempting to acquire one coin, denomination and type of your choice, of every YEAR as well. So, 1914 can be any coin you want. Lincoln Cent, Barber Dime, Buffalo Nickel....your choice. As long as you also get every coin type as well.

The Allure:

• In the end, you will have a Type Set, AND one coin of every year of US coinage production.

Disadvantage:

• Some dates are pretty pricey, no matter what you pick.
• That 1792 Half Dime is still out of your reach. (Face it....it will always be!)

No, the Box of 20 crowd need not apply. Either one results in A LOT of coins. But I’m kind of leaning to something like the Every Year Type Set for my own goal. (At least up to 1965, or so).

Might be best if I actually finished the “Normal” type set first.

Thoughts? Comments? 911 calls to find me some much needed help?

Baley

The years and decades don't mean as much to me as the design changes. My extended type set includes all 3 types of 3 cent silvers, the no-stars and 1873-4 with arrows seated, the "3rd" type of SLQ, the open wreath type 1 gold dollar, etc.

Drew the line at year 2000 though, and now focused on pre-1807..

The going has become very slow though, a coin or two per year at best. I personally would have no interest in a complete Eliasberg or Hansen endeavor, too many of the coins are alike, common, and boring..

BillJones

One coin for each major design is sufficient. If you do that, chances are you will have at least one coin from every decade. Getting one coin from each year is very hard and time consuming. After I completed my type set (half cent to $20 gold plus all of the “old commemorative coins” silver and gold) I had all of the decades covered, but far from each year.

One way to shorten the list is go for every major type. That means have just one Liberty Seated coin for each denomination. After you have done that, you can go back and get the individual types like the With Arrows and No Stars coins if you like. If you don’t have the 1873-4 with arrows coins, for example, don’t worry about it if they don’t grab you. The other pieces are sufficient to make for an interesting and historical collection.

Type collecting is not as easy as it sounds, even if you stick to the most common dates and just the 20th century if you want high grade coins, AU and higher. It takes time, effort and money.

Unless you have almost unlimited funds, some types are impossible, like the 1792 half disme or the 1796-5 half dollar. My advice is don’t worry about them if they are out of reach. If you have a 1795 to 8 Draped Bust, Small Eagle Dollar, you have the design of the rare half dollar covered. If you purchase a modern High Relief $20 gold that is similar to the 1907 High Relief $20. It’s not the same coin, but it’s a reasonable facsimile for a collector on a moderate budget.

Don’t let others force you to buy coins that don’t interest you. Stick with what you can afford and what really interests you, and you will be happy with you collection in the end.

As for the modern era, I have cut my set off at 1985 unless the coins are cheap. There is no way that I can keep up with all of the new designs and metals the mint system is now issuing unless I am going to spend a lot of money on coins I don’t want.

ChangeInHistory

I like the decades type set idea.
Another addition would be to include at least one coin from each mint, which I bet a few 'more than the basic 7070 album' type collectors do already.

mirabela

I don't have super specific guidance for you, but I'm basically a type collector myself, and my present orientation is toward a smaller number of nicer coins. Whatever set-definition allows you to prioritize quality pieces as your representative examples sounds good to me.

HoledandCreative

Don't collect holed ones!

yosclimber

You could rethink "what defines a type" in the first place.

Half dime examples:

At the largest level, it is full changes to both sides, like capped bust vs. liberty seated.

You can extend this down to large design elements, like "Ms. Liberty" with and without extra drapery.
It can be extended further to include the 1859 Philadelphia obverse (by Paquet).
And even further - the 1858 obverse is slightly different from the 1841-56 (both were used in 1857).
You could say that any time the master hub changed, it's a new type.

You can also use this concept for smaller design elements, like the mintmark size and the date size.

Then there is presence/absence of smaller design elements - stars and arrows.
It gets slightly complicated, because sometimes the date and arrows were on the working hub.

Edge design elements (reeded, lettered).

Planchet weights.

Part of the attraction is to have coins that look different; not just a change in one or two date digits.

chesterb

I like your ideas Tommy and am doing something very similar by including subtypes without the decades. For example, for the Seated Half Dollar, I need the following:
-No Drapery design
-with Drapery from 1839 to 1853
-Arrows and Rays 1853
-Arrows 1854-1855
-With Drapery resumed 1856-1866 but at a different planchette weight
-With Motto 1866-1873
-Arrows 1873-1875

• With Motto resumed 1875-1891 but at a different planchette weight.