Put in your 2c on this 1949 50c, Updated 10/14 post acetone
coastalpride85
Posts: 376 ✭✭✭
This coin was pulled straight out of a mint set, has nice FBL's, but something weird going on with the reverse.
Oddity on reverse, as well as some issues with the eagle
Post-acetone dip
Timestamp of coin in acetone 1st pic
0
Comments
I'm thinking it was struck threw something
HAPPY COLLECTING
I’ll go out in a limb her. I googled the 49 mint set quick just to see. I was thinking a plastic heat sealer melted something on that coin, possible glue residue or tape adhesive from the looks of the straight line goin on as well as nothing around the protected areas. It does look like pitting, but when I turn the photo upside down it does look like glue to me. I did see though that that year comes in a cardboard holder, although just because of that doesn’t mean the coin originated there. You didn’t specify if the set was sealed or not. It’s well know that toners have been harvested form these holders and other coins replaced. Frankly, I can’t tell if your coin is even a PF from the photos.
My money is on old tape residue. The straight line and the protected areas around the devices area dead giveaway. This was not struck through at all. The pattern of the residue looks like the tape slowly shrank and crinkled over time and eventually fell off or deteriorated away.
The tape residue answer sounds plausible... hard to tell from the photographs, but it does look that way around the letters....simple soak in acetone will answer the question. If residue, it should quickly be removed. It will not harm the coin in any way, so try it and let us know. Cheers, RickO
My guess is tape residue also. Mint set coins tend to just pop out when they've been removed too often. I'm guessing someone taped it in place after that began happening.
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So dip in acetone? I have never done such a thing....should the residue simply melt away or will it require a wipe (not to thrilled about potentially hairlining the coin)
The acetone will essentially melt it away. Worst case is you would take a cotton swab and roll it across the residue after it has soaked. The residue should stick to the cotton swab, then you can soak it some more. Eventually and fairly quickly it should all be gone.
10-4, I will try that this Friday when I'm off. I'll post some pics after
Ok! I get post mint damage scenario but the curious thing is that there is a ghost image of the “L” and “A” in the Legend word “Dollar”. Almost looks like it was “struck through” tin foil or a gum wrapper (?) Or it just could be a incidental artifact.
Await the post-acetone report!
Hope it's just the dried up residue of an adhesive rather than a chemical reaction of the substance with the rev coin surface. Let's take a dip? Peace Roy
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Updated with post acetone pics! Can still see the phantom letters L,A DOLLAR-AMERICA. voice your comments, opinions, I do not know what I should do with it.
Maybe give it a longer soak?
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Maybe try ...glue be gone?
Total soak time was approx 45 mins, allowed a few mins to dry..any ideas on soak times? When I look through my loupe (Belomo 10x) it looks like the layers of the coin are messed up
I would soak it for a few hours and soak it again with fresh acetone.
I reckon I will try that tomorrow.
This is one possible scenario:
Look at the “Voids” (green arrows & circles). The “crinkle” effect is not only in the surrounding fields but also on the letters of “DOLL”. Now look in the area of the ghost “L” and “A”, no “Voids”. The “R” was outside the boundary of the material. I think something strong but pliable lay over the damaged area of the coin or Working Die. As the press pressure increased to maximum, the mysterious material warped, contracted, and crinkled but the Void areas of the letters were “blanked”. The letters were struck but the warped material did not press into the Void areas to make a dimple impression because the voided areas were protected by a “blanket” effect. The ghosts (blue arrows) were a result of the “heat shrinking” of the tapered (lease resistance) edge of the material laterally withdrawing off the “L” and “A” letters but the ghost impressions on the material were “fixed” enough to be pressed into the field during maximum strike pressure. Letters are incused in the Working Die so the material was sliding as it contracted along the edges of the device horizons so the dimple effect in the Voids was nominal. The boundaries of the struck-through material are defined but contraction is evident. As for the material, this is how most plastics (polymers, resins, etc.) behave under pressure and heat.
Just a thought…
Sure looks like a foreign substance. You can soak it in Acetone for as long as necessary. I've had coins grade here after days in an acetone bath. The bath should at minimum reduce the area. If nothing happens at all try the rolling a wet with acetone Q-Tip trick. If that doesn't do anthing it might just be strike through.
I wish some of y'all very knowledgeable folks were local so I could show the coin first hand instead of a picture, it really looks like it's in the metal.
This is not definitive. I am no expert in anything. I am just making a supposition based on image interpretation. Without the coin in hand, it is tough to distinguish depth and detail. I examined your photo under full zoom and converted the color temperature to simulate fluorescent lighting. This is a trick @insider2 taught me in a previous post to bring out detail without distractions. Look at the image below. There are two parallel scratches on the “D” marked by the yellow arrows. This is compelling evidence that the anomaly is a struck-through. The scratches OVERLAP the blemished area and extend into the ripples. Reason dictates that if this were a foreign substance on the surface of the coin then the extension of the scratches would be UNDERNEATH and covered by the substance. Even if the substance were transparent, the overlapping portion of the scratches would be defused. The ends of the scratches are not blurred. The scratches are clearly contiguous. I think you are right, the anomaly occurred during the minting process. Hope this observation helps.
That is very informative and I am thankful for all of the input I have received. The next question would be should I send it in for a grade/attribution? If so which company? I am not currently member of any association.
let it soak in olive or mineral oil for a few days and then go acetone/Q-tip.
Took it to my local coin guy, he agreed that it is struck through. My next question is: is it worth submitting? or do y'all think the grade is not high enough?
Our host has a photo grade feature, use it, then look up it's value based on grade. Coins have three sides so check for damage and wear which mitigates mint condition. Now you have value up against the total cost of grading and possibly a slab. You decide. Your local coin shop guy should be able to guide you there. Peace Roy
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