An extremely common proof. These should have full steps. Don't fall into the trap of posting essentially worthless numismatic junk as you will quickly find that no one takes your posts seriously. Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics.
As other posters have stated, nearly all proofs of these years will have full steps.
It's the business strikes, or the coins made for commerce, that are tougher with FS.
A good idea may be to go to PCGS or NGC website and scroll through the population report numbers just to get an idea of relative scarcity with FS.
That being said, some more recent issues may have lower numbers because not many have been certified because there is an apparent lack of economic incentive to do so.
There are also some good books out there that you may find cheap that may be slightly outdated but will give you a good overall idea as to "what's what".
First, give us a name you prefer to be recognized with and referred to by when someone stops by here and addresses you and your inquiries/questions about coins. Usually your first name will suffice. Also state your age so you can be properly addressed. No-one wants to belittle you or talk over your head which I'm likely about to do with the following info. Secondly, you obviously are unaware of several things but the main one is, PCGS does not designate full steps FS for proof coins but I believe ANACS, another coin grading outfit, does, the least, has done so in the past.. If you already know this than you present another issue with distinguishing a business strike, circulating coins from specially made coins called proof coins.
But let's look at the coin you have brought to the forum. A couple of ways you can determine its value are by searching the web for " 1963 proof Jefferson nickel " or ebay auctions and past sales. Either way, you will be able to find a few highly professional pictures of your coin. Once there, you will be able to compare your coin to others. Once you get and idea of its quality and grade, you might be able to add a value to your coin which brings us back to another question.
How did you come about in owning the coin? Usually what you paid for the coin is a great indication to its value. Did you crack a proof set to obtain this coin or was it given to you.
Because your picture is somewhat blurry, it makes it difficult to see any marks on your coin. It looks like a nice coin that can grade anywhere from PF 60 to PF 70. But grading coins from pictures can be quite misleading as you will learn as time goes by when you start seeing MS or PF 63 coins in MS or PF 68 holders. But eventually, you will learn how to grade your own coins after comparing thousands.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
@291fifth said: "An extremely common proof. These should have full steps. Don't fall into the trap of posting essentially worthless numismatic junk as you will quickly find that no one takes your posts seriously. Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics."
You are free to respond to things that are "beneath" your expertise or to ignore the silly (to us) questions as many do. Unfortunately, if I were a newbie to coins, I should have no idea where to look for info on this. I guess I could try typing in full step nickels or FS on proofs.
Anyway, @Search66 I'm sure someone will EVENTUALLY answer most anything you ask. In the meantime, you may wish to do as this member suggested and look for an answer online first.
@Insider2 said: @291fifth said: "An extremely common proof. These should have full steps. Don't fall into the trap of posting essentially worthless numismatic junk as you will quickly find that no one takes your posts seriously. Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics."
You are free to respond to things that are "beneath" your expertise or to ignore the silly (to us) questions as many do. Unfortunately, if I were a newbie to coins, I should have no idea where to look for info on this. I guess I could try typing in full step nickels or FS on proofs.
Anyway, @Search66 I'm sure someone will EVENTUALLY answer most anything you ask. In the meantime, you may wish to do as this member suggested and look for an answer online first.
Please note that I said "Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics." Does this advice merit one of your many LOL's?
@Insider2 said: @291fifth said: "An extremely common proof. These should have full steps. Don't fall into the trap of posting essentially worthless numismatic junk as you will quickly find that no one takes your posts seriously. Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics."
You are free to respond to things that are "beneath" your expertise or to ignore the silly (to us) questions as many do. Unfortunately, if I were a newbie to coins, I should have no idea where to look for info on this. I guess I could try typing in full step nickels or FS on proofs.
Anyway, @Search66 I'm sure someone will EVENTUALLY answer most anything you ask. In the meantime, you may wish to do as this member suggested and look for an answer online first.
Please note that I said "Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics."
Are you still reading this silly thread about "NUMISMATIC JUNK?"
@291fifth asked: "Does this advice merit one of your many LOL's?"
No, but this one does. I'm trying to get your LOL count up. Note that I mentioned your good advice in my post.
When I first started collecting I listed some Jefferson's for sale and put FS on the 2x2 holder because I saw the designers initials on the coin so I posted it as a FS Jefferson Nickel. I found out real quick that is not what it was.
@asheland said:
Sadly, most proofs like that, even certified sell for $5 to $10. Definitely not worth sending in.
The only reason to send them in is for the protection from the environment the slab might provide, most of the time from my experience. But the proof coin must be really special in some way that makes it stand out. The following PR68 1955 is a good example. Looks like it has a chrome-like finish.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
Comments
Pictures would help, especially a close-up of the steps.
No. Additionally, 99.9 % of Proofs have FS so it is not noted.
PS Welcome! Keep searching and good luck!
Looks like a proof to me. Not worth certifying if so.
No. Do the math.
An extremely common proof. These should have full steps. Don't fall into the trap of posting essentially worthless numismatic junk as you will quickly find that no one takes your posts seriously. Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics.
I feel that this coin is worth 5 cents.
.
.
Ken
As other posters have stated, nearly all proofs of these years will have full steps.
It's the business strikes, or the coins made for commerce, that are tougher with FS.
A good idea may be to go to PCGS or NGC website and scroll through the population report numbers just to get an idea of relative scarcity with FS.
That being said, some more recent issues may have lower numbers because not many have been certified because there is an apparent lack of economic incentive to do so.
There are also some good books out there that you may find cheap that may be slightly outdated but will give you a good overall idea as to "what's what".
First, give us a name you prefer to be recognized with and referred to by when someone stops by here and addresses you and your inquiries/questions about coins. Usually your first name will suffice. Also state your age so you can be properly addressed. No-one wants to belittle you or talk over your head which I'm likely about to do with the following info. Secondly, you obviously are unaware of several things but the main one is, PCGS does not designate full steps FS for proof coins but I believe ANACS, another coin grading outfit, does, the least, has done so in the past.. If you already know this than you present another issue with distinguishing a business strike, circulating coins from specially made coins called proof coins.
But let's look at the coin you have brought to the forum. A couple of ways you can determine its value are by searching the web for " 1963 proof Jefferson nickel " or ebay auctions and past sales. Either way, you will be able to find a few highly professional pictures of your coin. Once there, you will be able to compare your coin to others. Once you get and idea of its quality and grade, you might be able to add a value to your coin which brings us back to another question.
How did you come about in owning the coin? Usually what you paid for the coin is a great indication to its value. Did you crack a proof set to obtain this coin or was it given to you.
Because your picture is somewhat blurry, it makes it difficult to see any marks on your coin. It looks like a nice coin that can grade anywhere from PF 60 to PF 70. But grading coins from pictures can be quite misleading as you will learn as time goes by when you start seeing MS or PF 63 coins in MS or PF 68 holders. But eventually, you will learn how to grade your own coins after comparing thousands.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection
@291fifth said: "An extremely common proof. These should have full steps. Don't fall into the trap of posting essentially worthless numismatic junk as you will quickly find that no one takes your posts seriously. Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics."
You are free to respond to things that are "beneath" your expertise or to ignore the silly (to us) questions as many do. Unfortunately, if I were a newbie to coins, I should have no idea where to look for info on this. I guess I could try typing in full step nickels or FS on proofs.
Anyway, @Search66 I'm sure someone will EVENTUALLY answer most anything you ask. In the meantime, you may wish to do as this member suggested and look for an answer online first.
LOL, I'll quadruple your profit!
Please note that I said "Step back and use the resources available on this site to learn more about numismatics." Does this advice merit one of your many LOL's?
Are you still reading this silly thread about "NUMISMATIC JUNK?"
@291fifth asked: "Does this advice merit one of your many LOL's?"
No, but this one does. I'm trying to get your LOL count up. Note that I mentioned your good advice in my post.
A nice proof Jefferson... A good coin for your album... Cheers, RickO
Sadly, most proofs like that, even certified sell for $5 to $10. Definitely not worth sending in.
My YouTube Channel
Simple answer to your question : NO
Steve
Thanks for everyone's imput. Part of the learning experience
When I first started collecting I listed some Jefferson's for sale and put FS on the 2x2 holder because I saw the designers initials on the coin so I posted it as a FS Jefferson Nickel. I found out real quick that is not what it was.
Hoard the keys.
Oh ya Welcome.
Hoard the keys.
The only reason to send them in is for the protection from the environment the slab might provide, most of the time from my experience. But the proof coin must be really special in some way that makes it stand out. The following PR68 1955 is a good example. Looks like it has a chrome-like finish.
Leo
The more qualities observed in a coin, the more desirable that coin becomes!
My Jefferson Nickel Collection