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I know I'm gonna hear how stupid this question is, but.........
jesbroken
Posts: 10,549 ✭✭✭✭✭
Would you explain to me how this could me mechanical or machine doubling? around the Five Cents and mint mark.
jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
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coin 101?
The hammer die (upper) chattered or bounced when striking the anvil die. Coin suffered.
bob
Based on considerable research data available to you on line with lots of images. Seek and yee shall find. Peace Roy
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OP why don't YOU tell us why is it/is not MD?
Also, does this date/MM have a known DD variety? If not, then why are you looking for DDs where they do not exist? On the other hand, if there is a known DD, then you should be able to match up pics of that one to yours.
JMHO.
Hey @jesbroken that's a stupid question. LOL. Are you satisfied?
I'm more interested to read what your research found.
Glad I made your day, folks. If someone has to take the daily relief beating, I'll do it. Their just appeared to be a couple of anomalies that I haven't seen associated with machine/mechanical doubling. For one, the notch in the bottom of the "E" in FIVE and and the curved E in cents. Assuredly, not well educated in this type of doubling. If you spend a lot of time searching machine doubling there are not a lot of different pictures and mostly the same over and over again. And I guess all the Buffalo nickel varieties have been found. In all actuality I wasn't looking for any varieties of any kind. I just got a new microscope today and was playing around with it while setting it up and grabbed a couple of raw coins just to look at and noticed this tradgedy. Honestly, folks, I have read many online articles on machine doubling, strike doubling, and mechanical doubling and this just didn't seem to show any signs of pushing metal up, or turning the corners with any kind of shelf effects, or swelling of the letters(maybe the S). I did not know that it is considered a sure thing that strike doubling has occurred when both the letters and the mintmark are doubled. Hope I haven't wasted your time. Go across the street to the ghost town and spend a few minutes reading how everyone is sad there are no posters anymore and that only ones that post are idiots with stupid questions that waste their time. I did learn something today in regards to both the letters and the mintmark being a clue to certainty of strike doubling, as I had not read that before. After searching about 12 different web sites on Machine/Mechanical/Strike doubling their is little or few examples on the buffalo nickel's mishaps at the mint. Am I to see by the roughness of the edges of these letters that this is evident of a late die state or does it just occur with this type of M/M/S doubling? Thanks to those of you that replied to the post.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
@jesbbroken : "The only stupid question is one not asked".
Why whip on a good man for asking a question?
I personally like the idea of a man looking for new varieties on buffalo nickels and I don’t understand the resentment for his question.
Just saying
Such is the current state of the forum.
@jesbroken - This effect happens well through war nickels too. Sometimes you'll also see clockwise or counterclockwise shelf doubling as time goes on. I believe your coin has mechanical doubling, metal flow, PMD, and the letters look touched up. I doubt all the varieties have been discovered. With how easy these wear and in the most important spots I'm certain such isn't the case. For these kinds of coins, I tuck them away and don't even bother asking here anymore. My two 1939 DDO Mercury Dimes and 44-S WQ25C both were attributed, albeit early/mid die states, and I got plenty naysayed on them.
JEEZE...it's a joke, lighten up. His question was already answered!
No questions are stupid.
In the area you are looking at, there is the mintmark and the denomination. One way to explain MDD is to back up and think about how that area was compromised.
There is "doubling" on the top of the letters in the Denomination. There is also "doubling" on the top of the mintmark.
O.K. Fine.
ANY doubling in that area, to be a "true" doubled die should only show doubling only on FIVE CENTS and not the mintmark.
The mintmark was applied AFTER the die was produced. It would not show doubling.
So the whole area is the result of Machine Damage Doubling, which distorted both the Denomination and the mintmark.
Hope this helps.
Pete
That's me!
Hope ya find something Jim!! Btw, nice pic. What kind of microscope did you buy?
My Original Song Written to my late wife-"Plus other original music by me"
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8A11CC8CC6093D80
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Hey Bobby. A little Celestron. I think I'm gonna like it. It's inexpensive and with a 5mp camera and has software with limited editing features. I have had Celestrons before(and still have one) but they had only 1.2mp cameras and not very good for coins. Good to hear from you. Been a while.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
Good reply, but please don't be afraid to use paragraphs.
It is all a learning experience. But, once again, is there even a known DD for this date/mm? If you want to search for new varieties that's great since I don't have the necessaey eyesight or patience to do it myself. But, be prepared to argue your case.
Good pics BTW. That makes a HUGE difference regardless of what kind of question you ask.
I have a little celestron also. Its the 10x - 150x one. Yours looks like you get less glare than mine does. I'm looking at another one. The one below!
My Original Song Written to my late wife-"Plus other original music by me"
https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL8A11CC8CC6093D80
https://n1m.com/bobbysmith1
I guess I’m just reading too much into these responses.
We are all friends here, right
Of course we are.
Sorry Bob but I disagree. The die(s) CANNOT bounce.
Think about what type of press was used to strike this coin and then explain to me how the die bounces. Even on an old screwpress the dies did not bounce.
A thorough knowledge of the minting processes with each type of press is needed to understand numismatics.
Indeed as another has said, “seek and you shall find”.
A: The year they spend more on their library than their coin collection.
A numismatist is judged more on the content of their library than the content of their cabinet.
@bsshog40 I have a little celestron also. Its the 10x - 150x one. Yours looks like you get less glare than mine does. I'm looking at another one. The one below!
Dang Bobby, I really like the scope's adjustable arm on that little critter. Wish I had seen it first. No limit to your angle of photography with that one. Hope you get it soon, and then take some pics and post them.
Jim
When a man who is honestly mistaken hears the truth, he will either quit being mistaken or cease to be honest....Abraham Lincoln
Patriotism is supporting your country all the time, and your government when it deserves it.....Mark Twain
If it also has doubling on the Mint mark identical to the doubling on the denomination that pretty much confirms it as MD for a coin of this era. Some of this stuff can be very deceptive-I've been fooled more than once.
Great picture and valid question.... and good answers above....I agree it is MD, and I also see the detail that prompted your question... Cheers, RickO