WD-40 on slab scratches

Batman23 · April 27, 2012 6:40PM

I was taking some photos of a newp and there are some frustrating slab scratches over the mintmark. I had read that WD-40 on the slab helps hide scratches and gave it a try. I was impressed and thought to share the results.

Here is one photo without WD-40 and one photo with WD-40. I think that is a bubble on the upper left wheat grains

lasvegasteddy · April 27, 2012 7:24PM

nice...i've heard regular cooking oil can achieve the same effects too...less harmfull
sweet lil "C.C." reverse too...

lcoopie · April 27, 2012 7:31PM

excellent demonstration, and reminder.

Manorcourtman · April 27, 2012 8:30PM

So are you saying the bubble was caused from using the WD40?

CoinRaritiesOnline · April 27, 2012 9:44PM

Really interesting. Thanks for sharing these images.

Does this also show that what looks like a field scratch above the O was actually on the slab? I would have interpreted that as on the coin if I didn't see the WD-40 photo.

FunwithMPL · April 28, 2012 12:00AM

I use WD-40 to remove the labels that dealers put on the slabs.

For the light scratches on slabs I use BRASSO it is a multipurpose metal polish.

crypto79 · April 28, 2012 12:37AM

Does the wb40 provide a permanent fix or just glosses over for a time to take pictures?

blu62vette · April 28, 2012 12:37AM

<< Does the wb40 provide a permanent fix or just glosses over for a time to take pictures? >>

Just for pictures. There are lots of options besides wd-40 that are more clear.

OGDan · April 28, 2012 12:41AM

How long does it take for the WD40 smell to go away!?

LanLord · April 28, 2012 12:50AM

<< How long does it take for the WD40 smell to go away!? >>

Eons, that stuff is nasty!

phnatacc · April 28, 2012 1:20AM

<< 

<< Does the wb40 provide a permanent fix or just glosses over for a time to take pictures? >>

Just for pictures. There are lots of options besides wd-40 that are more clear. >>

As a satisfied user of WD-40 on slabs, I have to ask you to give alternatives. I'd love to find a solution that works even better than WD-40, particularly if it is just as fast.

Also, for what its worth, WD-40 is NOT a viable solution for NGC prong slabs. The plastic does not take the WD-40 the same as other slabs.

keets · April 28, 2012 1:26AM

there are products such as SlabRenew which are marketed to the Hobby, but a plastic cleaner similar to that can be found at most any automotive parts store. IIRC what they essentially do is "fill" the scratches to allow light transfer to be virtually unimpeded through the capsule.

MsMorrisine · April 28, 2012 1:38AM

the polishes remove plastic and if pressed too hard can impart scratches.

if the headlight cover polish I have filled in scratches, then the deep ones would change shape slowly and would be easier to remove.

o remove hairlines I use a silver polishing cloth. it puts a glass-like finish on the plastic. Todd need to charge $5 to buff out the deep ones and polish the things to glass.

although the oil soultion seems to work great.

derryb · April 28, 2012 1:40AM

PlastX, cheap and available at most auto parts stores. Designed for convertible top plastic windows, I use it on slabs as well. Works beautifully on hazed headlight plastic covers, removes the hazy exterior foggy buildup. Try it, you will not be disappointed.

Tiny · April 28, 2012 1:44AM

What is the stuff that glass companies use to fix cracked windshields. I see the
commercials about how the put a drop or two on the crack and it gone. I think
it is some kind of adhesive. Wouldn't Super Glue hide cracks pretty good?

TwoSides2aCoin · April 28, 2012 1:55AM

An old trick in the photo lab years ago for "OLD" negatives with slight scratches was the use of a bit of "nose grease". Just the slightest scratches would be "masked" on the negative, and thus would not transfer to the paper when printing. We did "magic" for our customers way back when digital was non-existent and photo lab techs made great photographers look better.

In the old days, I believe that's what was used on coins and called "thumbing", too. A bit of nose grease would hide hairlines and fool collectors, or it would start the toning process.

Someone will correct me if I'm posting something out of "line" with the truth.

ooops, I just went to the glossary and found this :

thumbed
A term used to describe a coin that has been doctored in a specific way to cover marks, hairlines, or other disturbances. Often associated with silver dollars, it actually is used on many issues, mainly business strikes. The thumb is rubbed lightly over the disturbances, and the oils in the skin help to disguise any problems.

phnatacc · April 28, 2012 1:59AM

Personally I've never been too happy with the results of PlastX or SlabRenew... or Plaskolite's Plastic Cleaner... or Novus' 2 Fine Scratch Remover. At this point in my life, my time makes it more cost effective to just replace the slab than to spend it using the scratch removers to only occasionally achieve acceptable results.

WD-40 on the other hand, does a very impressive job in less than 10 seconds to temporarily hide the scratches in order to get a photograph.

Still, if there is something out there that does effectively the same thing but even more cleanly (and Todd's photography certainly leads me to believe he would know), I WANNA KNOW!

drwstr123 · April 28, 2012 2:13AM

<< Still, if there is something out there that does effectively the same thing but even more cleanly (and Todd's photography certainly leads me to believe he would know), I WANNA KNOW!

>>

Try an oil that is optically pure, used for oil immersion magnification: LINKY

messydesk · April 28, 2012 2:13AM

I have a small dropper bottle of light machine oil I use. Mineral oil would work, too, and in general any clear liquid with a very low surface tension. The problem with WD40 is that it starts all full of bubbles, so you have to make sure they're gone before proceeding.

blu62vette · April 28, 2012 2:14AM

<< Personally I've never been too happy with the results of PlastX or SlabRenew... or Plaskolite's Plastic Cleaner... or Novus' 2 Fine Scratch Remover. At this point in my life, my time makes it more cost effective to just replace the slab than to spend it using the scratch removers to only occasionally achieve acceptable results.

WD-40 on the other hand, does a very impressive job in less than 10 seconds to temporarily hide the scratches in order to get a photograph.

Still, if there is something out there that does effectively the same thing but even more cleanly (and Todd's photography certainly leads me to believe he would know), I WANNA KNOW!

>>

Go to the grocery store and look at the oils on the shelf, pick out the clearest one you see.

drwstr123 · April 28, 2012 2:21AM

There is a solution used to remove scratches on military pilot's visors.
It's commercially available for eyeglass lenses.
Clean Lens

magikbilly · April 28, 2012 2:25AM

Wow, an old trick resurfaces. Look at the improvement in the second photo overall. I'd not use anything but light olive oil I guess or somoehthing like that. Aren't the machine oils and so on hydrocarbins or some such - not so good for plastic? Last time this came up there was another oil mentioned...

Best,
Eric

TwoSides2aCoin · April 28, 2012 2:28AM

I enjoy the coin. May I see the other side now ?

timber100 · April 28, 2012 3:50AM

<< There is a solution used to remove scratches on military pilot's visors.
It's commercially available for eyeglass lenses.
Clean Lens >>

Have you tried this and how did it work? thanks

drwstr123 · April 28, 2012 4:24AM

<< 

<< There is a solution used to remove scratches on military pilot's visors.
It's commercially available for eyeglass lenses.
Clean Lens >>

Have you tried this and how did it work? thanks >>

I used a similar product back when I wore glasses. The product filled in the scratches with optical clarity.
The name of the product I had used has been usurped by another product now.

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 4:40AM

<<

So are you saying the bubble was caused from using the WD40? >>

The bubble is in the WD-40. It wipes off along with the WD-40. No slab damage.

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 4:42AM

<< Really interesting. Thanks for sharing these images.

Does this also show that what looks like a field scratch above the O was actually on the slab? I would have interpreted that as on the coin if I didn't see the WD-40 photo. >>

That scratch is on the coin. The first photo makes it look larger and more obvious than it is. I can barely see it in the second photo, just the way that the light was hitting it I guess. I have to look for the scratch on the coin in hand.

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 4:43AM

<< Does the wb40 provide a permanent fix or just glosses over for a time to take pictures? >>

Just a gloss over to photo through. I have not had much luck with the couple of slabs I tried to polish in the past. This was quick and simple.

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 4:45AM

<< How long does it take for the WD40 smell to go away!? >>

I don't smell anything on the slab right now.

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 4:47AM

<< 

<< 

<< Does the wb40 provide a permanent fix or just glosses over for a time to take pictures? >>

Just for pictures. There are lots of options besides wd-40 that are more clear. >>

As a satisfied user of WD-40 on slabs, I have to ask you to give alternatives. I'd love to find a solution that works even better than WD-40, particularly if it is just as fast.

Also, for what its worth, WD-40 is NOT a viable solution for NGC prong slabs. The plastic does not take the WD-40 the same as other slabs. >>

I also would like to know the "best oil". I will probably try mineral oil or machine oil next time.

Thanks for the info about the new NGC plastic. I try not to hang onto the NGC platis too long though

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 4:55AM

<< I enjoy the coin. May I see the other side now ? >>

Wow, I was not expecting so much debate over WD-40. Some good ideas and points here about other oils. Those bubbles in WD-40 are frustrating so I will try something different next time.

Here is the whole coin. There are a few field scratches on the obverse but the intent of this post was slab scratches. The WD-40 did nothing for the scrathces on the coin

Graded AU58.

OGDan · April 28, 2012 5:16AM

<< 

<< How long does it take for the WD40 smell to go away!? >>

I don't smell anything on the slab right now. >>

Hmm, ok. Whenever I use WD40, my hands end up smelling for the rest of the day. I'd be careful with how much you use. Contrary to common understanding, WD40 is a penetrant, not a lubricant. I know the slabs are supposed to be sealed, but I wouldn't spray it directly on the slab or in the direction of it.

Peacemonkey · April 28, 2012 5:21AM

Armor Etch

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 5:26AM

<< 

<< 

<< How long does it take for the WD40 smell to go away!? >>

I don't smell anything on the slab right now. >>

Hmm, ok. Whenever I use WD40, my hands end up smelling for the rest of the day. I'd be careful with how much you use. Contrary to common understanding, WD40 is a penetrant, not a lubricant. I know the slabs are supposed to be sealed, but I wouldn't spray it directly on the slab or in the direction of it. >>

Using the "Smart Straw" and light pressure I am able to get several drops out without spraying all over. There was no oil or spray near the slab seams. As noted, I will probably try mineral oil or thin lubricating oil next time. I was impressed with how the slab scratches disapeared for the photos.

magikbilly · April 28, 2012 5:34AM

"I know the slabs are supposed to be sealed, but I wouldn't spray it directly on the slab or in the direction of it."

Define "sealed".

You are a wise man.

Eric

AMRC · April 28, 2012 5:38AM

I have amazing results just using PCGS and NGC to reholder the coins. Scratches go away every time.

Batman23 · April 28, 2012 6:09AM

<< I have amazing results just using PCGS and NGC to reholder the coins. Scratches go away every time.

>>

Do you know haw many cans of magic eraser... err.. I mean WD-40 I can buy for the cost of sending a dozen slabs in for re-holder?

Not to mention that I prefer keeping my holders in the green.

Edited to add... I have had some freshly holdered coins with irritating slab haze/scuffs too.

OGDan · April 28, 2012 6:28AM

<< I have had some freshly holdered coins with irritating slab haze/scuffs too. >>

I hear you, this irritates me so much. That and rotated coins in fresh slabs, straight out of the box. The scratches are really irritating if you like to photograph your coins.

Buzzybest · April 28, 2012 7:50AM

<< I have amazing results just using PCGS and NGC to reholder the coins. Scratches go away every time.

>>

I wish I had read this post before I tried acetone!

EagleEye · April 28, 2012 9:38AM

I use the WD40 pen, however, the tip is rough enough to scratch the holder, so you just tap it on the holder and smear it around on the slab with your finger. Mind you, this is just for taking pictures,not for permanently removing scratches.

Dave99B · January 22, 2021 4:22PM

Just tried some WD-40. Worked great for improving my pics!

Wish my slabs didn't smell like a transmission shop now. Maybe that will fade with time.

Dave

MsMorrisine · January 22, 2021 4:33PM

i'd think another thin oil would work , too.

perhaps sewing machine oil or, an admittedly heavier, mineral oil

it'd be nice to experiment as I know that wd-40 smell isn't so nice.

have you tried to rinse it off with alcohol?

Dave99B · January 22, 2021 4:38PM

I tried just a bit of mild dishwashing soap, and water, using a soft cloth. Will see how it is tomorrow, and will go from there. Alcohol is great idea.

Dave

ctf_error_coins · January 22, 2021 4:47PM

Vegetable oil in a dropper.

Pat dry paper towels.

Alcohol clean up.

Desert Moon · January 22, 2021 8:08PM

Mineral oil.......... No autoshop smell.

messydesk · January 22, 2021 8:11PM

Unscented lamp oil in a dropper bottle.

Mr_Spud · January 22, 2021 8:46PM

What about isoparrifin. It’s low molecular weight mineral oil that evaporates so it won’t leave a residue and doesn’t have a smell. It doesn’t evaporate real fast like alcohol so it should give you enough time. You can get it from art supply stores or chemical stores.

Batman23 · January 22, 2021 10:51PM

An old thread popped up. I didn't have an issue with the WD40 but then again I don't mind the smell of it. The mineral and vegetable oil sounds interesting. A touch of oil sure helps for hiding the slab scratches.

Mr_Spud · January 23, 2021 1:02PM

I just tried isoparaffin. I had a small bottle of “Daler-Rowney Low Odour Thinners” that is used as a paint thinner for oil paints lying around. The back label says it’s isoparaffin. No smell and it’s volatile so it evaporates off so no oil residue. I tried a particularly scratched up PGGS slab. Here’s the result. The first picture is dry, the 2nd is with a drop of isoparaffin applied and spread out with a small stainless steel powder scoop.

I’m impressed that it worked so well. I think I’ll do this from now on anytime a slab is scratched up 🌞

Batman23 · January 23, 2021 1:59PM

@Mr_Spud said:
I just tried isoparaffin. I had a small bottle of “Daler-Rowney Low Odour Thinners” that is used as a paint thinner for oil paints lying around. The back label says it’s isoparaffin. No smell and it’s volatile so it evaporates off so no oil residue. I tried a particularly scratched up PGGS slab. Here’s the result. The first picture is dry, the 2nd is with a drop of isoparaffin applied and spread out with a small stainless steel powder scoop.

I’m impressed that it worked so well. I think I’ll do this from now on anytime a slab is scratched up 🌞

That turned out pretty well. I would be cautious using some volatile liquids, Seems that I have heard some types will melt the plastic. The mineral oil sounds like it would be effective and safe. Thanks for posting your results.

Mr_Spud · January 23, 2021 2:37PM

I wiped the isoparaffin off with a paper towel after I was finished and now it looks like the same scratched up slab I started with with no problems that I’m seeing. Isoparaffin isn’t very aggressive of a solvent, it’s in lots of makeup and other cosmetic products. I looked it up again and also found it’s being used to fill up those nautical compasses too where there is a floating compass ball inside some kind of clear plastic so I’m thinking it’s pretty safe. I just purchased a bottle off of Amazon of Compass Oil where it says in the text that it is Isopar L which is a trade name for isoparaffin. I figure it’s even purer and optically clear since it’s for those floating compasses. It’s this one:

WD-40 on slab scratches

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