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How to assess the value of a "Genuine"

I am looking to complete a date set, so I am not looking to find the best for each coin, but I did find a coin that fits the bill. It is in a PCGS Genuine 92 holder. My question is how do I value this coin, so I can make an informed offer?

Side note: This a date set to commemorate my Great Grandma who lived to be 104, she was born in 1874

I appreciate any advice...thanks
Paul
You can work until you get it right, or you can work till you can't get it wrong.
You don't get, what you don't ask for.

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    MsMorrisineMsMorrisine Posts: 40,279 ✭✭✭✭✭
    hard to say.

    it depends upon how cleaned it appears.

    abrasively? lightly?


    have you done any auction searches for past genuine coins of the same ?
    Current maintainer of Stone's Master List of Favorite Websites // My BST transactions
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    Like the price of any U.S. coin, auction archives are your friend. Look for comps in the Heritage and Teletrade auction archives. That history will get you in the ballpark. Of course the actual coin might trade at a different price. If offered for sale by a dealer, some dealers might hold out for near full price, so it will be a no-sale to the educated buyer. Almost all the U.S. coins dated 1874 are likely available somewhere else if a person is patient, so the other option is to keep shopping. For 90% of collectors, a problem coin will tend to be seen as lower in quality and price even if the details are higher than a no problem coin at a lower base grade.

    A light cleaning might mean 20% off the price of no-problem example. A harsh cleaning more like 50% or even 80% off for high grades. It is difficult to generalize, again, the auction archives with images will get you in the right ball park.

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    291fifth291fifth Posts: 25,246 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Do you really want to own coins in "genuine" holders?

    Even if the answer is yes, don't be generous in your offer. The problem isn't going to go away.
    All glory is fleeting.
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    Genuine = problem. I know it's hard, but I'd hold off, set aside some greenback dollars and get a genuinely great coin.
    Let's try not to get upset.
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    It depends upon the coin. A ceaned coin that is common in problem free condition will trade at a very substantial discount as there is really no reason to buy one. A cleaned coin that is scarce in any condition will always have some demand, and should trade at a lesser discount. If you post the specific coin, or shoot me a pm, I could be more helpful.

    Chris

    merse

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    TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 45,295 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Paul,

    The previous posters gave great advice. If it's a "gennie" it has some issue preventing a grade from being assigned. How does a person value the problem ? Since your goal is "completion" and that's probably what would bring satisfaction more than quality coins, the best way to value the "label" is to look beyond the plastic and see what the underlying problem is. This will help you deterimine the "eye appeal" of the coin and that will likely suit your needs best.

    Practice makes perfect & nobody is perfect. So, practice being nobody and be perfect !

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    PerryHallPerryHall Posts: 47,848 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Can we get a pic of this coin? Like other have said, it depends on the nature of the cleaning---is it subtle and hard to see or did they use a piece of coarse sand paper on it---it really does make a difference.

    Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
    "Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
    "Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire

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    mbogomanmbogoman Posts: 5,347 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>It depends upon the coin. A ceaned coin that is common in problem free condition will trade at a very substantial discount as there is really no reason to buy one. A cleaned coin that is scarce in any condition will always have some demand, and should trade at a lesser discount. >>



    Hit the nail right on the head. To use an extreme example, I just completed a US dollar type set with an original Gobrecht dollar in a Genuine-92 slab. It sold for about 25% less than what an unmolested version with the same wear would have sold.
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    Here are pictures of the coin, I know they are not the best, but they are all I have. As I said before, this is to complete a set, and any coins I purchase will not stay in their plastic. They will end up in some sort of framed dispplay when completed. hopefully the pics will com out .

    Thanks everyone for your thoughts.
    <a href="http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l599/simplyme55318/?action=view&current=1874tradeobv.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l599/simplyme55318/1874tradeobv.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    image
    You can work until you get it right, or you can work till you can't get it wrong.
    You don't get, what you don't ask for.
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    My vote: pass

    image

    image

    If you are making a set, try for an even look. Unless the coins you have already also looked cleaned, why buy that one? It is a common enough coin. Keep shopping. You might have to go a grade or even several detail grades lower to fit your budget. If you insist on making an offer, again, auction archives are your friend. Do a search on cleaned coins of that date and you'll find them.

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