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Opinions on a new camera for shooting coins

Hi folks-

I think my daughter is going to kidnap my Nikon D60 and I may need to get a new camera to shoot coins. Any opinions on the advantages/disadvantages of the Nikon D3000 versus D3100 for shooting coins? (these are the models in my price range)

Thanks!

Lane
Numismatist Ordinaire
See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces

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    I feel your Pain, My dependents shop at my house as well.

    Some nice side by side comparisons.

    link

    link

    Good Luck
    Love The Hobby
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    here is another comparison:

    link

    They are similar but the 3100 has a larger image size that could be beneficial. I was asked which one do you want, I would go with the 3100 but that is not considering ay price difference as I did not look into it that much.
    http://www.bluccphotos.com" target="new">BluCC Photos Shows for onsite imaging: Nov Baltimore, FUN, Long Beach http://www.facebook.com/bluccphotos" target="new">BluCC on Facebook
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    I shoot Nikon but if I were to buy another camera I would go with a Canon. Canon has the EFSC shutter function that reduces vibration due to the shutter firing. This makes some difference on full-size coin shots and an even bigger difference on variety shots if you go with higher magnification. Another option is to use flash with every shot to eliminate the effect of the vibration but that limits you for lighting choices.
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com
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    .
    from what i can tell there are 2 main differences

    1. the 3100 has a movie mode, the 3000 does not
    2. the 3100 has some minor updates over the 3000

    if the price is close lets say within $100 i'd go with the newer model

    but you also need to investigate macro/nikkor micro lenses and compatibility

    in the end knowing how to use what you have will determine your image quality
    .
    i really recommend speaking with a professional photographer to make the process go nice and smooth

    i personally went straight to the source and was fortune to briefly have m. goodman advise me and of course i offered to pay for his time and experience

    and i will say working with someone that knows what they are doing is integral to achieving a satisfactory result
    .

    <--- look what's behind the mask! - cool link 1/NO ~ 2/NNP ~ 3/NNC ~ 4/CF ~ 5/PG ~ 6/Cert ~ 7/NGC 7a/NGC pop~ 8/NGCF ~ 9/HA archives ~ 10/PM ~ 11/NM ~ 12/ANACS cert ~ 13/ANACS pop - report fakes 1/ACEF ~ report fakes/thefts 1/NCIS - Numi-Classes SS ~ Bass ~ Transcribed Docs NNP - clashed coins - error training - V V mm styles -

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    Get a d300 or 700 image and a sigma 150 macro or a nikon 60 macro.
    I like the "professional" bodies a lot more than the "consumer" ones.

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    Sony a77 tops my list.
    Lance.
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    the 3100 is supposed to be an improved model,
    so go for that
    and a macro lens would be next.
    LCoopie = Les
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    Thanks for the info ... I already have a Nikon Micro 105 mm and Micro 60 mm (great for slabs) that work well with my D60.

    The price difference between the D3000 and D3100 is about $150. I see the primary difference for my purpose as the megapixel size difference (10.2 versus 14.2).
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    << <i>I shoot Nikon but if I were to buy another camera I would go with a Canon. Canon has the EFSC shutter function that reduces vibration due to the shutter firing. This makes some difference on full-size coin shots and an even bigger difference on variety shots if you go with higher magnification. Another option is to use flash with every shot to eliminate the effect of the vibration but that limits you for lighting choices. >>

    Canon and Nikon seem to battle back and forth. I like Canons, but I bought into Nikkor/Nikon lenses and thus I am sticking with Nikon.
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    If your Nikkor lens is VR you're good to go.
    I think the price difference from the 3100 to the 5100 made the latter a better value.
    Both of these go on sale quarterly and the online price will usually be lower than that same stores in-house sale price.
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    .
    actually if you have the setup that works for you

    just buy her a point-and-shoot

    there are some very nice models to choose from

    i keep my L110 Nikon for backup and it is a very nice camera

    they should be around $250-275 as i bought mine a year or so ago
    .

    <--- look what's behind the mask! - cool link 1/NO ~ 2/NNP ~ 3/NNC ~ 4/CF ~ 5/PG ~ 6/Cert ~ 7/NGC 7a/NGC pop~ 8/NGCF ~ 9/HA archives ~ 10/PM ~ 11/NM ~ 12/ANACS cert ~ 13/ANACS pop - report fakes 1/ACEF ~ report fakes/thefts 1/NCIS - Numi-Classes SS ~ Bass ~ Transcribed Docs NNP - clashed coins - error training - V V mm styles -

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    << <i>.
    actually if you have the setup that works for you

    just buy her a point-and-shoot

    there are some very nice models to choose from

    i keep my L110 Nikon for backup and it is a very nice camera

    they should be around $250-275 as i bought mine a year or so ago
    . >>

    I agree ... but she wants a DSLR ... we'll see ...
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    I know the 3000 doesn't autofocus some lenses
    So check the lenses you have.
    LCoopie = Les
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    Thoughts on the new Nikon D5100? Yeah ... a lot more money than the D3100 ... but what the heck!
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    If you're used to shooting in tethered mode with the D60, do NOT get either the D3000 or D3100, as they don't support it. You'll have to get the D5000 or D5100.
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    I had a client of mine I was consulting with recently get the 5100 and things are going well with it.

    Couple other thoughts on above comments. If you have a VR lens and use a copy stand you are likely better suited with the VR off. A 60 macro is pretty short for coins, stick with a 90/100 or longer.
    http://www.bluccphotos.com" target="new">BluCC Photos Shows for onsite imaging: Nov Baltimore, FUN, Long Beach http://www.facebook.com/bluccphotos" target="new">BluCC on Facebook
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    << <i>I had a client of mine I was consulting with recently get the 5100 and things are going well with it.

    Couple other thoughts on above comments. If you have a VR lens and use a copy stand you are likely better suited with the VR off. A 60 macro is pretty short for coins, stick with a 90/100 or longer. >>



    I agree. And ya, a 60 macro is almost too short for anything macro. I have a sigma 150 and even that is too short for some stuff!
    And don't get caught up with megapixels. I have used almost every nikon body. Get any of them, spend the money on the macro lens. The 3000, 3100, 300, or even the d80 and d200, all great cameras and you would never be able to tell the difference.

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    Check out this review of the Sony a77. I'm bummed they're back ordered for another month.

    I use a 180mm macro for most everything. It's too long for slab shots, however.
    Lance.
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    I thought you could just barely sneak a full slab shot out of a 180? I am sure I have in the past. I think it cut off a hair of the slab but was good enough.
    http://www.bluccphotos.com" target="new">BluCC Photos Shows for onsite imaging: Nov Baltimore, FUN, Long Beach http://www.facebook.com/bluccphotos" target="new">BluCC on Facebook
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    << <i>I had a client of mine I was consulting with recently get the 5100 and things are going well with it.

    Couple other thoughts on above comments. If you have a VR lens and use a copy stand you are likely better suited with the VR off. A 60 macro is pretty short for coins, stick with a 90/100 or longer. >>

    But the 60 is GREAT for slabs. I use a 105 for coins.
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    << <i>I thought you could just barely sneak a full slab shot out of a 180? I am sure I have in the past. I think it cut off a hair of the slab but was good enough. >>



    180 or 200 are fine for slabs as long as you can get far enough away. My 200 Micro takes nice slab shots at ~48" away...Ray
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com
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    My copy stand is 32". I'm not sure I have ever raised the camera to maximum extension to see if I can frame a full slab with a 180mm lens. It's easier to snap in a 50mm macro than deal with all the wiring and lighting adjustments.
    Lance.
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    Have you considered a used body? The shutters in Nikon bodies are good for upwards of a 150,000 clicks. I have a D200 and 3 D300 bodies that were purchased used. Try KEH in Altlanta GA. Their "EXC" rated bodies are like brand new. Another source is Fred Miranda. I've purchased bodies and lenses on there. You could save some $$$ by purchasing a D80, D90, or D200 body instead of the D3000/D3100.

    Ken
    Ken
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    Thanks, everyone.

    After comparing the new Nikons on the market, I ordered a Nikon D5100. The D3100 was okay, but for a little more, the D5100 was a better value. The D7100 was just too much for me.

    Thanks again ... my daughter is thrilled!
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    good move,
    do you have a macro lens?
    LCoopie = Les
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    I would check out the D7000 & the 60mm macro lens.
    Land of the Free because of the Brave!
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    << <i>I know the 3000 doesn't autofocus some lenses
    So check the lenses you have. >>



    For coin macro work, I use manual critical focus anyway. The results are better than autofocus. In addition, the 60mm Nikon Macro is fantastic - no VR, but you need a tripod for good macro so it does not matter.

    I would look at the many comparisons of the D7000 and the 300. The D7000 is fantastic. Clearly the latter is more durable if dropped, but not much else.
    Land of the Free because of the Brave!
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    << <i>good move,
    do you have a macro lens? >>

    Yes, both the 60mm and 105mm Nikor micro. According to the Nikon site, both are compatible with the D5100.
    Numismatist Ordinaire
    See http://www.doubledimes.com for a free online reference for US twenty-cent pieces
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    Last Christmas I upgraded from a D5000 to D7000. For me, the main advantage of the D7000 over the D5X00/D3X00 is the D7000 can use a wider variety of Nikon-mount lenses. Like the others it can't deal with non-AI lenses but the D7000 allows you to program up to 9 "non-CPU" lenses (AI, AIS) and it can meter and function properly with them. It also has built-in AF motor to drive the whole series of Nikon AF lenses and G lenses and of course works with all AFS lenses. I have a bunch of Nikon-mount lenses of various vintages and this compatibility was important to me.

    Other than lens compatibility the other differences I see between the D5000 and D7000 are:

    - The D7000 has two user-programmable modes (U1/U2) that remember all camera settings and allow quick shifting from a bellows setup to carry-around setup

    - When in Live View mode using Camera Control Pro 2 (CCP2), at 100% pixel view on the monitor, the D7000 has a much sharper preview. The preview from the D7000 looks pretty much exactly like the final image, where the D5000 final image is much better than shown in Live View. This makes it a bit easier to critically-focus macro shots. I don't know if D5100 is like D7000 or D5000.

    - When a non-CPU lens is attached to the D5X00/D3X00, they don't know what to do and force you into full Manual mode. In Live View using CCP2, the D7000 always assumes it has a non-CPU lens attached and allows you to use either Manual or Aperture Priority modes. Aperture Priority mode is very nice when taking macro shots since the camera automatically adjusts shutter speed so you don't need to mess around with the exposure as you move lights around, and can do exposure bracketing.
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com
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    The D5100 has better live view than the D7000. I don't use the live view so to me that is not a big difference. I find the D7000 live view shaky, the D5000 was much more steady.
    http://www.bluccphotos.com" target="new">BluCC Photos Shows for onsite imaging: Nov Baltimore, FUN, Long Beach http://www.facebook.com/bluccphotos" target="new">BluCC on Facebook
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    << <i>The D5100 has better live view than the D7000. I don't use the live view so to me that is not a big difference. I find the D7000 live view shaky, the D5000 was much more steady. >>



    When I say Live View I mean while tethered, not on the built-in screen. The D5000 Live View while tethered updates slower and at lower resolution, which is why it seems more steady. Less realtime. But when you say the D5100 is better, I'm curious what the difference is between D7000 and D5100? The D5100 is a bit newer I think so I'd be curious what they improved on it.
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com
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    While tethered the D5100 seems much more stable. The D7000 seems to pick up more vibration making it harder to really be in focus and just not as easy to use.
    http://www.bluccphotos.com" target="new">BluCC Photos Shows for onsite imaging: Nov Baltimore, FUN, Long Beach http://www.facebook.com/bluccphotos" target="new">BluCC on Facebook
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    Maybe your stand needs to be made a bit more rigid? I don't notice any vibration (unless I bump the camera or table) with my D7000.
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com
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    That is not it. I see it wherever I do shooting. It seems overly sensitive.

    http://www.bluccphotos.com" target="new">BluCC Photos Shows for onsite imaging: Nov Baltimore, FUN, Long Beach http://www.facebook.com/bluccphotos" target="new">BluCC on Facebook
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    OK, just checked out my D5000 and D7000 side by side, handheld, in Live View mode on built in screen. Neither the D5000 nor D7000 update the Live View screen instantly, but the D5000 is a bit slower. Moving them around shows the D5000 Live View lags the D7000 by a little bit. I expect the electronics in the D7000 are faster than the D5000, so the screen updates faster, but it may have been a choice by the designers to speed up the update on the D7000 vs D5000. The result is the D7000 looks more like a "live video" feed than the D5000. This makes the D5000 look more "stable" but I personally prefer the faster update, especially when I'm tethered.
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com
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    I don't think you can go wrong with any of the new Nikon bodies.

    That said, if I were you, I'd save my money and get the best lens you can afford -- it will make more of a difference in your capture than the body will, IMO.
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.

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