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Need to settle on an ASE for typeset...
elmeister
Posts: 117 ✭✭
I want to add an ASE to my certified 7070 but would like to get something a little more unique than a common... it's a big coin and i love the design
there's not a ton of variety to distinguish one year from another... if you were looking to find a nice single piece would you look for a key date (1996), first year (1986), or something more interesting like the 2008 reverse 2007? I realize the latter is a bit more $$ than the others but it's kind of a cool error/variety...
or I could just get a filler and pump the funds into another piece in the set...
anyone have a gut feeling about these coins (numismatically) over the next 20-30 years? which do you think will be valued by collectors? (if i'm missing any other years/varieties in the sub $500 range please fill me in... i'm OK w/ proofs too)
-matt
there's not a ton of variety to distinguish one year from another... if you were looking to find a nice single piece would you look for a key date (1996), first year (1986), or something more interesting like the 2008 reverse 2007? I realize the latter is a bit more $$ than the others but it's kind of a cool error/variety...
or I could just get a filler and pump the funds into another piece in the set...
anyone have a gut feeling about these coins (numismatically) over the next 20-30 years? which do you think will be valued by collectors? (if i'm missing any other years/varieties in the sub $500 range please fill me in... i'm OK w/ proofs too)
-matt
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Possibly a RP but to me, that isn't representative of the series, so I didn't do that.
I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment
that said, when available I'd rather get a date that's key/semi-key if possible... for instance my Washington Quarter is a 1932S PCGS MS-64, Walking Lib is a 1941S MS-65+, Franklin Half is 1953-P MS-65FBL...
honestly as my collection grows, i could see myself swapping more important dates for fillers (tough to resist buying a $20 MS63RB Lincoln VDB to hold the spot while i decide if i want to splurge on a VDB-S in the future... i'm not a big copper guy so if i'm going to buy a copper cent... it might as well be THE copper cent...)
btw... these pieces will be kept in their slabs... just using the 7070 as a rough template to guide me....
thinking about my set i'm leaning towards a 1996 w/ some color... i think that would "fit" the best with what i'm trying to achieve...
https://www.pcgs.com/SetRegistry/collectors-showcase/world-coins/one-coin-per-year-1600-2017/2422
semi-keys .... if the mint keeps its 100,000 max mintage then the 25th anniversary coin set of 5 will be semi-keys.
the good news is the set hasn't been released yet and you can buy a set at issue price, the bad news is the coins are not sold individually.... except the bullion will be a plain bullion and a proof will be the regular proof. those you can get. There will be a reverse proof and a "burnished/uncirculated" as below:
¡one 2011 Silver Eagle Proof Coin from the United States Mint at West Point
¡one 2011 Silver Eagle Uncirculated Coin from the United States Mint at West Point
¡one 2011 Silver Eagle Uncirculated Coin from the United States Mint at San Francisco
¡one 2011 Silver Eagle Reverse Proof Coin from the United States Mint at Philadelphia
¡one 2011 Silver Eagle Bullion Coin (only one without a mintmark)
The one to keep would be the S mint marked Uncirculated coin.
There was a 20th anniversary P mint marked Reverse proof in 2006, but that mintage is almost 250,000.
I must add there will be Uncirculated ASE release in september. I'm not sure if they will have the usual W mint mark, or if they expand to both S & W.
You'll need to keep an eye on that, too. If they release a S mintmarked Unc. coin in Sept., then that will kill the semi-key of the one in the 25th ann. set.